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Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

Bushman

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,138
Location
Joliet
Just got this vintage (seller claimed it was made late 70s era) unissued Canadian Army surplus extreme weather parka! It didn't come with the liner, so it's more of an in-between coat. I bought it to replace my old Eddie Bauer coat, which had sadly begun coming apart after almost 15 years of wearing it.
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tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,747
Location
Illinois
Recent arrival via eBay..
Day’s Ranger Whipcord
Seller listed it as NOS and it certainly appears to be unworn, unwashed deep dark green. Nice detailed snaps, cuff epaulets, chest zip.
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That is a Beauty and perfect fit! I have this Hercules with an American Legion pin. These must have been made by Day? This one has the "made in the Far West" slogan. I don't know where Day was located.

The Zipper and Hercules label say 1950. I have not seen this style with the more common 1950s label.

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Messages
17,506
Location
Chicago
Here’s a nice one for the old clothes catalog. Excelled, thick painted topcoat. I wouldn’t put these in the best of materials or construction list but it certainly does the job. The real winner is the fit. Broad shoulders, longer sleeves and it’s got some nice taper to the waist. Really reminds me of Aero’s HWM but far better through the body.
I love the color. I skimmed it with brown Urad and it really brought out the maroon.
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mullitt

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
Could not pass this up. I’ve been looking for one like this for years, but this one is so very lightly worn and in such a badass dark brown color. Not sure how old, really hard to tell but maybe 30s. 8CDFD1C1-54F7-4B7E-A099-C11F416BD434.jpeg 1D420A2A-E475-4E8D-8C6B-112C5BF7AB16.jpeg
 

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mullitt

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
That is a Beauty and perfect fit! I have this Hercules with an American Legion pin. These must have been made by Day? This one has the "made in the Far West" slogan. I don't know where Day was located.

The Zipper and Hercules label say 1950. I have not seen this style with the more common 1950s label.

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I’ve had the Hercules 50s whipcord pants for years but I’ve never had the jacket. Would like to get one someday.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,747
Location
Illinois
Could not pass this up. I’ve been looking for one like this for years, but this one is so very lightly worn and in such a badass dark brown color. Not sure how old, really hard to tell but maybe 30s. View attachment 407340 View attachment 407341

I’ve had the Hercules 50s whipcord pants for years but I’ve never had the jacket. Would like to get one someday.

The Coat looks great. Always a pleasure to find a garment you have been looking for. I saw a coat very similar. I have not seen another Hercules like this, thought it was pretty cool.


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tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,747
Location
Illinois

I have not seen this sleeve/shoulder combination on a Californian. Is this a Raglan sleeve? I do have this on a recent wool half-belt with a Hollywood label. I tend to see, or look for, evidence of CSC as a maker, they were prolific. I will investigate further to see if there are any other clues to make connection.

Great Aviator Style jacket from the late 30s!
 

mullitt

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
The Coat looks great. Always a pleasure to find a garment you have been looking for. I saw a coat very similar. I have not seen another Hercules like this, thought it was pretty cool.


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Oooh, that’s a nice one. Kind of a rare style in the US, main place I’ve ever seen them is in movies.
What I think is interesting about the one I got is that the fit is more tailored than how you think of a Mackinaw being cut. You see it in European garments sometimes.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,747
Location
Illinois
Very interesting Ralphs-Pugh jacket. Not sure of the date on this one. I've seen this label on other RP garments. This has a very Cossack look. RP goes back to the 1920s. They produced a variety of Cloth and Leather garments.

There is a similar label with Leather and Cloth Sportswear instead of just leather as this label.



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Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
This image is from a 1942 Spiegel catalog. I noted the notice in the bottom left. I had not seen this notice. I'm sure it is in response to the WWII shortages. Also note that Horsehide is not as prevalent during these years, instead using Pony Hide. Capeskin is also prominent during the war years.

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There was definitely metal shortage in everyday life.

But was horsehide used in Military/war effort too? Holsters?

People just came out of the Great depression and still managed to work with less. Amazing.
 

Leigh H

Practically Family
Messages
688
Location
Brighton
Could not pass this up. I’ve been looking for one like this for years, but this one is so very lightly worn and in such a badass dark brown color. Not sure how old, really hard to tell but maybe 30s. View attachment 407340 View attachment 407341

Love this! fits you perfect! I've always liked the barnstormer in Giant worn by James Dean.

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tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,747
Location
Illinois
There was definitely metal shortage in everyday life.

But was horsehide used in Military/war effort too? Holsters?

People just came out of the Great depression and still managed to work with less. Amazing.

My guess; the zipper shortage never happened, horsehide had other applications than military wear, was probably still being used in industrial and farm work. Many men were gone during the war, available fashion reflected that. Less interesting men's sizes. Larger Leather producers were also making jackets for the military, using resources and work hours. The shortages never quite reached a panic level and jackets were produced, but at a much different rate. Everything was in a state of change and that shook up every industry including leather jackets.

I often see jackets as pre-war/post-war. There are differences in many ways.
 

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