Vintage Car Thread - Discussion and Parts Requests

[GHT]

GHT
I was checking the other day with regards to chrome work.
I didn’t know that there are different levels of “chroming” available .
And the price depends on what level you choose.

That's amazing, I've seen the chroming process on film, it didn't show, or explain about different levels. What I do like though, is that nowadays you can get chrome in various colours, it might not suit older cars but it has a spectacular bling effect on newer ones.

It depends on what climate you live in. Her, we don't have as much of a problem with rust, just dirt and mud, which is always fun to clean off of wire wheels.

What I didn't explain, or expand on, is the fact that a lot of replacement parts, including chromed parts, are made on the cheap, using substandard materials. These parts come from various countries, non of which I would name and shame here, but it comes down to, buyer beware.

 

[2jakes]

That's amazing, I've seen the chroming process on film, it didn't show, or explain about different levels. What I do like though, is that nowadays you can get chrome in various colours, it might not suit older cars but it has a spectacular bling effect on newer ones.
View attachment 59158

One level is called "show chrome".

 

[Stanley Doble]

The difference in chrome prices is mainly the hand labor of repairing and polishing. Chrome hides nothing. What the part looks like when it goes in the chrome bath, is what it looks like coming out, except shinier. If you want a perfect job every pit and scratch must be laboriously filled with solder or ground and buffed out, and too much grinding and buffing can ruin the part unless the man doing the work is an expert.

There is no reason you can't do the repairing and buffing at home at least for smaller parts. Years ago a chrome shop gave me these prices for an elaborate hood ornament. Show chrome - $320. Street chrome - $160 If I do the polishing -$80. These days you can buy home chrome plating outfits and do it yourself.

 

[scottyrocks]

FF - yes, I had been looking for the right car for a moderate while. The pictures in the ad for this one looked pretty bad, but in person, the car was in much better shape. Usually it's the other way around.

Lizzie - the passenger side arm/blade is a little loose, but I'm planning on parking it once the winter precip begins.

jakes - Yes, I do remember the practice of letting carbureted cars warm up before moving off. Modern fuel injection has not obliterated my memory.

I am trying to keep as much originality as I can. On my to-do list is a buffing out of the paint, and a scrubbing/polishing, and waxing of all the chrome bits. Certain things can be replaced with aftermarket with no ill-effect, and I will be going that route when I have to.

Unfortunately some systems, the windshield washer in particular, are poorly designed, and I will update them with more modern systems that will be just about invisible from the spectator's eye.

Stanley - before my first truly new car in 1995, I did all my own maintenance on my cars (and bikes).

VWs take 2.75 qts, and yes, no filter. Pull the screen, clean it, and replace the housing with new gaskets, which I can still get for $1.85.

I have a repair manual, and have been/will be on top of this car.

 

[scottyrocks]

Oh, and I guess a picture would have been nice.

I realize I had written that it needed to be buffed out, and it does. The reason it looks so good here is that I was using WD-40 to be able to loosen some stuck fasteners, and got some on the paint. Noticing the shine, I wiped down the whole car with it, and this was the result. Unfortunately, it lasts only as long as the first rain. haha

 

[scottyrocks]

Here is what it looks like sans WD-40:

 

[BobHufford]

Here is what it looks like sans WD-40

That'll buff out nicely. Is it the original paint? You may want to keep it dull if so as originality seems to be a bit of a value boost nowadays (you know ... leaving the dirt on a barn find, etc.). If you plan to drive and enjoy it, then I would wax it up with old-school wax and you can let it fade again if you plan to resell.

Congrats! I miss driving an air-cooled VW (but I get over it pretty quick).

 

[2jakes]

Oh, and I guess a picture would have been nice.

View attachment 59247

I realize I had written that it needed to be buffed out, and it does. The reason it looks so good here is that I was using WD-40 to be able to loosen some stuck fasteners, and got some on the paint. Noticing the shine, I wiped down the whole car with it, and this was the result. Unfortunately, it lasts only as long as the first rain. haha

It’s a beauty!

I love the aroma of WD-40.
But would not recommend it on a daily basis.
Even if you wipe it off, you still have a coat of film from the WD
which acts to pick up dust faster.

Don’t know if this is your first VW.
If it is.
It’s very common when driving on the freeway for passing vehicles to sway
your beetle from side to side on your lane as you drive.

That’s one of the things about driving these vehicles.

Hope I’m not “bugging” you with this.

 

[Stearmen]

Hope I’m not “bugging” you with this.

 

[LizzieMaine]

Unfortunately some systems, the windshield washer in particular, are poorly designed, and I will update them with more modern systems that will be just about invisible from the spectator's eye.

Do you have the one that's powered off the air pressure from the spare tire? Works great, as long as you actually have a spare tire.

 

[1mach1]

I love the aroma of WD-40.

Its the best! [emoji14]

 

[GHT]

Unfortunately some systems, the windshield washer in particular, are poorly designed, and I will update them with more modern systems that will be just about invisible from the spectator's eye.

A windscreen washer? No such thing on my MG, nor two speed wipers. Even the two wipers have to be synchronised manually. There's no demister either, to do that you have to wind the windscreen open.

 

[Talbot]

Out with the old:



In with the older:



Sold (reluctantly) my 54 of these last 25 years to an old friend. The 41 is the new car for me! Its still in the US awaiting shipping arrangements.

 

[David Conwill]

It would be hard to let that beautiful Bel Air go, but a '41 Ford ragtop would definitely ease the pain! I love that maroon color they used on the '41-'48 Fords.

 

[Big Man]

There's always something ...

I started the old '48 Plymouth today, grabbed the shifter to put it in gear and the shifter just flopped in my hand. I raised the hood, and just as I suspected, the graeshifter control rod bushing had finally gave out. The shifter control rod was just lying there no longer connected. Thank goodness for some bailing wire (everyone should have a stash of baling wire arounf - it's better than duct tape). I wired the two pieces together and that sufficed to get the car moved to where I needed to to be. Now, to order a replacement bushing and I'll be back in business.

My question: Has anyone here ever replaced the gearshifter control rod bushing? Is there anything special that needs to be done, or is it just a matter of a "simple replacement" (like anything is "simple")?

Thanks.

 

[David Conwill]

That kind of thing falls closer to the "routine maintenance" end of the scale than the "major restoration" end. I expect you'll have little trouble. Your shop manual or the good folks at p15-d24.com should tell the tale.

 

[Big Man]

Replacing the gearshift control rod bushing turned out to be a snap. I ordered the part from Burnbam on Monday and got it in today's mail. It was a little difficult to get it into place, but once in everything works fine.

Looks like I'm back on the road again.

 

[Stanley Doble]

You might check the bushing on the transmission. It may be worn too. It is surprising how light and precise the old column shifts are, if worn parts are renewed and they are lubricated and working correctly.

 

[1930artdeco]

Talbot, do you have convert the Ford to RHD?

Mike

 

[LizzieMaine]

After a driving season of almost exactly nine months, I've just finished mothballing the Plodge for the winter. Total mileage for the season stands at 2089 miles, with the odometer rolling over 100,000 back in May.



Very few repair issues this year, the only major one being the replacement of the front universal joint. The dripping heater still needs to be dealt with, but that will wait until next spring. The driver's door handle is a bit sticky, which suggests I may also want to dismantle the door and tighten up whatever's coming loose. That, too, will wait until spring.