Vintage Cal - It's changing my outlook on things

[Chevalier]

I am on a road trip and just spotted a Cal “in the wild”. I am hoping for some advice about whether this is worth picking up for about $180. The pluses are the weight of the leather (feels more like my Star Glove than my other Cal), the tea core-ish wear (at least more so than my other Cal), and the original (I think) sleeve and pocket zips. The main zip is (I think) a replacement. The minuses are the wear on the top of the back of the collar around the fold, the small hole in the back between the shoulders, and the separation in one of the shoulder seams. I think it will also need a new liner eventually. It seems like a serious potential repair bill, but the leather does seem pretty hefty.

 

[Chevalier]

Here is the shoulder seam separation. It looks like it would need fixed by going inside the liner. Maybe something to remedy if I got the liner replaced.

 

[JMax]

I would have two concerns— The hole is definitely one. Does it go all the way through? Just curious. Either way, that would be the deal breaker for me.

Second, while the seam separating at the shoulder, taken on its own, is no big deal, I’ve had enough Cals to know that it probably has, or will soon have with real wear, the same issue in other spots. It might cost more than you think. It seems that vtg Cal seams are either all good to go, or all ready to go. Lol. Opinions may vary, that is mine.

FWIW, I’ve paid around $200/$250 to have an entire jacket restitched by a local dude when I lived in Miami. Not sure what Dena or JL would bill. Maybe a bit more and then add shipping.

 

[El Marro]

What a cool find @Chevalier! If you didn’t already have a Star Glove (the Grail!!!) and another Cal in your collection I would say go for it. As it stands the only reason I could see buying this one would be if it fit so damn well that you didn’t ever want to take it off. Otherwise pass.

 

[Will Zach]

In the best Randy Jackson voice: "Dog, it's a no from me". The hole sank this jacket for me.

 

[TREEMAN]

Pass that one on by...

 

[Leigh H]

Someone grabbed a bargain with this star glove

Vintage Leather Motorcycle Jacket Horsehide Black 50s 60s Talon Zip Size Medium | eBay

Great silhouette. 19” flat across bottom waist of jacket.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Chevalier]

Thanks @JMax @El Marro @Will Zach @TREEMAN for the replies & advice.

@JMax I don’t think the hole goes entirely through the jacket, but it looks deep enough that more wear could cause it to break through. Thanks for the warning about the seams. It is good advice in the hunt for good vintage Cals

@El Marro The fit is good, but I think the arms might prove too short over time. The separated shoulder seam also causes a weird puckering at the shoulder that would probably persist until I got the seam fixed. The Star Glove is a great jacket. I got mine re-lined at Cal Leathers. It was well worth the investment.

This jacket just has too many strikes against it. If it still had its label, was actually a Star Glove, or had a mouton collar, I would jump at it. I think I will go back to plan A and save up the money for a mouton collar for my Cal.

 

[Chevalier]

Someone grabbed a bargain with this star glove

Vintage Leather Motorcycle Jacket Horsehide Black 50s 60s Talon Zip Size Medium | eBay

Great silhouette. 19” flat across bottom waist of jacket.

www.ebay.co.uk

The seam separation near the collar scared me away from this one. It is hard to tell from photos if the leather is sturdy enough to tolerate restitching.

 

[Leigh H]

For you Cal lovers.

A new arrival, another beat up (Red label) Cal, it's a little stiffer and shorter in length, compared to my others.

Came with collar and belt. Notice 'Jinx' faded paint on the back.

 

[After the Fox]

Hi, 40 odd years ago on a trip to the States from UK I picked up this police jacket to wear on my vintage American Hi, 40 odd years ago on a trip to the States from UK I picked up this police jacket to wear on my vintage American bikes . Stored it away with other jackets and forgot all about it. Now retired with time on my hands I thought I'd look around for some more info as it does not have a label. Saw your old post re these jackets and thought you might be able to help out. Very thick heavy leather, feels bulletproof...Has buttoned cuffs (buttons missing though) and longish collar (no poppers to hold points down) so I'm assuming '40s/early 50s ? Collar has a corduroy insert which looks as if added after production. I remembered this site and looking around see some similarities with Cal-Leather, but as mentioned there were a lot of other manufacturers producing similar. Any ideas ? Cheers

bikes . Stored it away with other jackets and forgot all about it. Now retired with time on my hands I thought I'd look around for some more info as it does not have a label. Saw your old post re these jackets and thought you might be able to help out. Very thick heavy leather, feels bulletproof...Has buttoned cuffs (buttons missing though) and longish collar (no poppers to hold points down) so I'm assuming '40s/early 50s ? Collar has a corduroy insert which looks as if added after production. I remembered this site and looking around see some similarities with Cal-Leather, but as mentioned there were a lot of other manufacturers producing similar. Any ideas ? Cheers

 

[Bahabp100]

Does it have mouton fur in the inside of the sleeve cuffs ?

 

[JMax]

Sweet jacket. Not a Cal though. Is the back yoke straight across? That may help. As will focusing on the stitch pattern along the bottom hem. So many variants to police jackets, even within a particular maker, that it is hard to ID these. Could be Taubers, Californian, All weather, and so on, but all I own or have pictures of have some differences between their “standard” CHP and your jacket.

No matter the maker, one heck of a jacket. A shot of the entire interior of the jacket, to include bottom hem will help. As will belt loop shape, but those can change a bit within brands. And what are the pockets lined with and what color? Haha. Perhaps too many questions from me. My favorite style of jacket.

@tmitchell59 owns a few of these bad boys.

 

[tmitchell59]

Hi, 40 odd years ago on a trip to the States from UK I picked up this police jacket to wear on my vintage American Hi, 40 odd years ago on a trip to the States from UK I picked up this police jacket to wear on my vintage American bikes . Stored it away with other jackets and forgot all about it. Now retired with time on my hands I thought I'd look around for some more info as it does not have a label. Saw your old post re these jackets and thought you might be able to help out. Very thick heavy leather, feels bulletproof...Has buttoned cuffs (buttons missing though) and longish collar (no poppers to hold points down) so I'm assuming '40s/early 50s ? Collar has a corduroy insert which looks as if added after production. I remembered this site and looking around see some similarities with Cal-Leather, but as mentioned there were a lot of other manufacturers producing similar. Any ideas ? Cheers View attachment 449373 bikes . Stored it away with other jackets and forgot all about it. Now retired with time on my hands I thought I'd look around for some more info as it does not have a label. Saw your old post re these jackets and thought you might be able to help out. Very thick heavy leather, feels bulletproof...Has buttoned cuffs (buttons missing though) and longish collar (no poppers to hold points down) so I'm assuming '40s/early 50s ? Collar has a corduroy insert which looks as if added after production. I remembered this site and looking around see some similarities with Cal-Leather, but as mentioned there were a lot of other manufacturers producing similar. Any ideas ? Cheers View attachment 449368 View attachment 449369 View attachment 449370 View attachment 449371

I just saw your message, thanks. The inner collar is probably factory, several makers did this. The main zipper looks to be a 50s replacement. The pocket zipps look original and from the 40s. Very much a standard police style jacket, pointed collar, badge holder, button cuffs, belt loops.

The light lining also says 40s and, to me, west coast.

Seattle Woolen made very similar jackets. They are typically much heavier than average. They had epaulets.

This goatskin is pretty close, it does not have a label. This is from the late 30s early 40s with the sunrise Talon zipper. Goat may seem light, but these were probably west coast climate jackets.

These jackets may not have had a makers/store label originally.

 

[After the Fox]

Hi guys, many thanks for all that input.
Zip certainly appears to be replacement (unfortunately), lots of extra stitching... The lining is a black gaberdine type cotton, where it has worn a bit an interlining in dark blue wool can be seen , pockets lined in beige khaki cotton (maybe time/use has darkened). No mouton at sleeve ends, sleeves lining in the same black, wear at the sleeve ends shows no interlining. Inside pen pocket on left hand side.
The white leather insert below collar appears to be original as it fits nicely into the lining at the shoulder seam. The corduroy is hand sewn over the leather so could have been added, there's been extra stitching around it as well (???) The white leather insert below collar appears to be original as it fits nicely into the lining at the shoulder seam. The corduroy is hand sewn over the leather so could have been added, there's been extra stitching around it as well (???)
I forgot to mention that the belt loop studs are by RAU fasteners Prov. R. I. , I assume Providence Rhode Island (I'm a Brit !). perhaps these and the wool interlining allude to use in a cooler East Coast outfit ? Sleeves would definitely have had button fastening not poppers. Hope this adds to a possible narrowing down of maker, but as one of you has said it doesn't really matter as it's a really well made jacket. And thanks for all your interest. Extra photos, hope you don't get bored ! cheers !

 

[Chevalier]

Did Cal go through a black YKK zipper period? Maybe in the 80s or 90s? I found an unlabeled jacket with the right stitch patterns, white canvas pocket bags and ball point pen size label in the pocket. I think it is a Cal. I will post pics tomorrow if there is enough sun.

 

[Leigh H]

I've finally picked up a Star Glove!

Seller found it at a thrift store.
I feel like it’s been in someone’s wardrobe for a very long time, the lining is like new.

 

[Will Zach]

Hi guys, many thanks for all that input.
Zip certainly appears to be replacement (unfortunately), lots of extra stitching... The lining is a black gaberdine type cotton, where it has worn a bit an interlining in dark blue wool can be seen , pockets lined in beige khaki cotton (maybe time/use has darkened). No mouton at sleeve ends, sleeves lining in the same black, wear at the sleeve ends shows no interlining. Inside pen pocket on left hand side.
The white leather insert below collar appears to be original as it fits nicely into the lining at the shoulder seam. The corduroy is hand sewn over the leather so could have been added, there's been extra stitching around it as well (???) The white leather insert below collar appears to be original as it fits nicely into the lining at the shoulder seam. The corduroy is hand sewn over the leather so could have been added, there's been extra stitching around it as well (???)
I forgot to mention that the belt loop studs are by RAU fasteners Prov. R. I. , I assume Providence Rhode Island (I'm a Brit !). perhaps these and the wool interlining allude to use in a cooler East Coast outfit ? Sleeves would definitely have had button fastening not poppers. Hope this adds to a possible narrowing down of maker, but as one of you has said it doesn't really matter as it's a really well made jacket. And thanks for all your interest. Extra photos, hope you don't get bored ! cheers !
View attachment 449725 View attachment 449726 View attachment 449727 View attachment 449729 View attachment 449730 View attachment 449725 View attachment 449726 View attachment 449727 View attachment 449729 View attachment 449730

This yellow leather insert in the neck area looks identical to the one in my "Monarch", also unlabeled. Could it be a Monarch? @After the Fox, I have seen this light insert on only handful of jackets, all unlabelled. A mystery maker, maybe Monarch.

 

[Will Zach]

I've finally picked up a Star Glove!

... and the fit is perfect.

 

[Leather Walker]

Did Cal go through a black YKK zipper period? Maybe in the 80s or 90s? I found an unlabeled jacket with the right stitch patterns, white canvas pocket bags and ball point pen size label in the pocket. I think it is a Cal. I will post pics tomorrow if there is enough sun.

Yes. There are plenty of Cals with black plastic zippers. My guess they were made in mid 80s.