Victorian gentlemans clothing, where to find information?

[nihil]

I know the subject isn't strictly FL material. But since there are so many knowledgeable persons here, I thought that perhaps someone could point me in the right direction.
I've become very much in love with the later part of the Victorian era, and would therefore like to assemble a proper set of clothes for that period.
After looking around myself, I've come to the conclusion that it's quite difficult to find any outfitters who offer accurate Victorian clothes. Gentleman's Emporium is a fun shop, but the products do look quite inaccurate. They even use 100% polyester fabrics for some of their suits. Yikes!
I'm therefore looking for two things:
1. Direction as where to find good information about gentlemens clothing of that era, be it books, websites, blogs, or forums.
2. Suggestions as to where I can find an reasonably accurate sack coat suit. It seems to me, that a good execution of this particular style, wouldn't make the completed ensemble look too out of place, compared to a set based around a frock coat or cutaway coat.

I've been looking at this book in particular: http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Illustrations-Century-Dover-Costumes/dp/0486263533 but since the illustrations are so old, it would seem there is a chance that the images and information can be found freely available on the Internet?

 

[Shangas]

I can help you with stuff like accessories, jewellery and stuff like that. Send me a private message about your questions or concerns surounding your first question ("information about men's clothing of the era?") and I'll help answer your question. I've done a lot of reading about stuff like that.

 

[DanielJones]

Here are a few sites that night help you out on that path.

River Junction Traders

Premier Designs Historic Clothing

Those are a couple of good sites to start with. I know of one Western Mercantile that has some really nice stuff I just can't recall the name of it off hand. They had a really neat tweed frock coat that I've wanted for some time.

Hope this helps you out to start with.

Cheers!

Dan

 

[DanielJones]

Ah I found it!

The Western Poster Page, Mercantile. This page has the Italian Tweed Frock Coat.

Cheers!

Dan

 

[Brevetti]

I also have a bit of an interest in the turn-of-the-century era. While looking for information on the fall of the frock coat, I came across this website: http://ushist.com/victorian_mens_clothing_f.shtml

In the site's menswear section, they offer made-to-order sack suits. I can't speak for period accuracy, though they are supposedly reproductions. It looks like a very fine product. I'm not really sure if they're cut with the high armholes and other details that the Fedora Lounge endorses, but then again, I don't think the early sack suits were as structured and well-tailored as the clothing of the Golden Era. These sacks are made of pure wool, and look like quite a step up from the stage props offered by Gentleman's Emporium.

I'd love to read a full review of the suit, if you were to choose this route.

 

[Shangas]

What we need to know is what kind of enssemble you're trying to put together.

Casual? Everyday? Semiformal & smart? Full-formal? There's a huge difference between Victorian street-casual, a suit, and white tie and tails.

 

[Chasseur]

I'd also mention Old Town clothing for late 19th and early 20th century:
http://www.old-town.co.uk/

 

[nihil]

Thank you for all the replies

To be very specific, then I'm looking for British city clothing from the era. A suit that would be worn in the daytime for business and the like.
I envision it something along the lines of a charcoal three piece sack suit, a proper shirt and either the early type tie worn with a four in hand, or the bow tie looking item, that was worn underneath the shirt collar. Cuff links, double Albert watch chain, and a hat when I have decided on a style that I think would look good on me.
I'm a bit at a loss about the shirt, as I don not know exactly which style I should go for, nor where one such can be acquired.
Footwear is of course also in question, but it's much further down the line. And for that particular item, Gentleman's Emporium seem to have a reasonable selection of accurate period footwear?

 

[nihil]

Double post - The delete post function seems to be out of order.

 

[Qirrel]

Thank you for all the replies

To be very specific, then I'm looking for British city clothing from the era. A suit that would be worn in the daytime for business and the like.
I envision it something along the lines of a charcoal three piece sack suit, a proper shirt and either the early type tie worn with a four in hand, or the bow tie looking item, that was worn underneath the shirt collar. Cuff links, double Albert watch chain, and a hat when I have decided on a style that I think would look good on me.
I'm a bit at a loss about the shirt, as I don not know exactly which style I should go for, nor where one such can be acquired.
Footwear is of course also in question, but it's much further down the line. And for that particular item, Gentleman's Emporium seem to have a reasonable selection of accurate period footwear?

If you want something which is going to look period accurate and be of good quality you will need to cough up rather a lot of money I'm afraid. I know that these people make good reproductions: http://www.historyinthemaking.org/catalogue/mencost1885-1910.html.
This place seems to offer a good deal, but I've never been able to get in contact with them through their email: http://www.waltontaylor.com/welcome.html

 

[MisterCairo]

Nihil,

I have some other links on my other computer, will forward shortly, but in the meantime, Magnoli Clothiers (several threads on him around) has several Victorian items. Several are based on the Guy Ritchie Sherlock Holmes film, others more generically Victorian.

Some immediate links:


http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/baker-frock-coat-overcoats-p-396.html
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/davison-frock-coat-overcoats-p-445.html
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/holmes-frock-coat-overcoats-p-352.html
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/victorian-frock-coat-overcoats-p-388.html
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/victorian-waistcoat-vests-p-387.html
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/victorian-shirt-shirts-p-395.html
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/holmes-pants-p-368.html
http://www.magnoliclothiers.com/victorian-boots-p-460.html

 

[Shangas]

Personally I'm not sure if I'd follow the RDJ films as being representative of the Victorian era.

To Nihil, I replied in detail to the message you sent me. Hopefully that answers the questions you had. If it didn't or if you have more, you're welcome to message me back. I included information about shirts since you seemed particularly interested in those.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I remember a tailoring book or magazine from that era was posted here but I couldn't open it. Can't find the thread because I don't remember the name. Did you try google books and the year you are looking for?

I've been looking at this book in particular: http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Illustrations-Century-Dover-Costumes/dp/0486263533 but since the illustrations are so old, it would seem there is a chance that the images and information can be found freely available on the Internet?

What's wrong with a ten dollar book? It's cheap enough if you ask me. And it is about mens fashion...the later volumes are always mixed stuff and contain a lot more for women.

 

[MisterCairo]

Personally I'm not sure if I'd follow the RDJ films as being representative of the Victorian era.

QUOTE]

OFF TOPIC

Well, the costume designer, Jenny Beavan, is an eight-time Academy Award nominee and winner in 1986 for A Room With a View, and had this to say about her creations for the first film:


You won an Academy Award for A Room With a View. Can you be a little more liberal with the fashions in a movie like Sherlock Holmes than with a true period piece like A Room With a View?

Well, I think that for every film that I do within a period, it's always better if you keep to the period. Once people start taking liberties, the costumes start getting self-conscious; people start looking at them and wondering why it isn't quite right. So, at some moment, even our Sherlock Holmes is deeply rooted in the period. But I did take liberties. Everything in it is true—I just pushed the colors and, particularly with Irene [Rachel McAdams’s seductive criminal character], I just made it a bit more sculptural. But it is absolutely within its period in terms of shape and accessories. And with Holmes, I always approached it from a storytelling point of view. Once I got the character— you know, he's so oddball—I thought, Where does he get his clothes from? As we know, he "borrows" them from Watson. Steals them, whatever you like.

A Room With a View is a much more straightforward story about really very English folk, so you have no need to push anything. You just do it for what it is within its context. That movie is not real life—it's a moment, a fragment, in real life.

As you said, everything in Sherlock Holmes was accurate, but there did seem to be a modern feel to the film.

I think it does [have that feel] and I think it's through the attitude of the way they're wearing it. They're wearing it in a very free kind of way. But it's very 1890s. Robert's a bit all over the place but, if he's anything, he's backwards. I think it must have something to do with the attitude.

 

[nihil]

Flat Foot Floey, no not at all. But from what I can gather, the book is about American fashion of the period. I'm looking for information on British fashion of the era. And since I know quite little about the details, I'm a little weary of purchasing the book.

Very interesting information about the RDJ Sherlock Holmes movie. I also had the impression that they had modernized it quite a bit in regards to costumes. But perhaps this is because many of the Victorian era clothes really aren't that far removed from the modern gentleman's wardrobe. A suit is roughly a suit, a cravat is a cravat, tweed is tweed, and so on.

 

[Vampyre Master]

I know the subject isn't strictly FL material. But since there are so many knowledgeable persons here, I thought that perhaps someone could point me in the right direction.
I've become very much in love with the later part of the Victorian era, and would therefore like to assemble a proper set of clothes for that period.
After looking around myself, I've come to the conclusion that it's quite difficult to find any outfitters who offer accurate Victorian clothes. Gentleman's Emporium is a fun shop, but the products do look quite inaccurate. They even use 100% polyester fabrics for some of their suits. Yikes!
I'm therefore looking for two things:
1. Direction as where to find good information about gentlemens clothing of that era, be it books, websites, blogs, or forums.
2. Suggestions as to where I can find an reasonably accurate sack coat suit. It seems to me, that a good execution of this particular style, wouldn't make the completed ensemble look too out of place, compared to a set based around a frock coat or cutaway coat.

I've been looking at this book in particular: http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Illustrations-Century-Dover-Costumes/dp/0486263533 but since the illustrations are so old, it would seem there is a chance that the images and information can be found freely available on the Internet?

Right up my alley!! hi there, same here been into this for ages, first you must be patient, it can take a while to gather what you want, bear in mind men of this period were generally smaller so genuine stuff will be small, that's good because most guys are not now!! it’s all natural fibres cotton, wool, silk, try https://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/
http://www.victorianlondon.org/ http://www.costumegallery.com/men.htm and of course markets. Warning!! don't rush, don't buy cheap crap, it will look awful and try to find some one who alters and repairs good luck, you can always pm me
regards
V

 

[nihil]

Thank you for your input

I've decided to do this slightly backwards, and acquire the other items than the sack suit, first. The four in hand tie and double watch chain is easy enough, but I'm quite uncertain when it comes to the shirt. As for which features and designs that are appropriate?
And if anyone can point me in the direction of a batswing/narrow ribbon bow tie, I would be very pleased.
With my height, there is no chance I can find original items of clothing that fits.

 

[Gin&Tonics]

http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/s...rect)|utmcmd=(none)&__utmv=-&__utmk=125328778

These are a far less expensive version of the spectator spat boots linked by a previous poster. They even come in brown/taupe if you are so inclined! They seem pretty decent given the reviews, and gents emporium also has plain black and brown ankle boots which look quite lovely.

I have purchased several items from Gentlemans Emporium and so far been quite satisfied. You just have to be careful to know what you're buying and avoid the polyester stuff if you don't want that. They have more waistcoats than you can shake a stick at, and some of them are 100% wool quality stuff.

 

[The Good]

http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/s...rect)|utmcmd=(none)&__utmv=-&__utmk=125328778

These are a far less expensive version of the spectator spat boots linked by a previous poster. They even come in brown/taupe if you are so inclined! They seem pretty decent given the reviews, and gents emporium also has plain black and brown ankle boots which look quite lovely.

I have purchased several items from Gentlemans Emporium and so far been quite satisfied. You just have to be careful to know what you're buying and avoid the polyester stuff if you don't want that. They have more waistcoats than you can shake a stick at, and some of them are 100% wool quality stuff.

I know that this isn't related to the intent of the thread poster, but in your opinion, do you think some of these Victorian style waistcoats could work with more modern suits as well? I think many of them look nice, but maybe it calls for the whole look in general.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I don't think they work with a modern grey or blue business suit.

But I think you could wear one of the cotton canvas waistcoats with your leatherjacket/chino combos.