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Vanson! Vanson! Vanson!

TartuWolf

One Too Many
Messages
1,213
Location
Tartu, Estonia
That's a Cal Creations pictured no?
No idea, long time ago I saved the picture from somewhere on TFL and don't remember what it is. I have quite a few such pictures.
Here's the front though:
1705001350811.jpeg

Here's another example of something I saved because it shocked me but I don't remember what it is.
My best guess would be Lost Worlds.
1705001394383.jpeg
 

TartuWolf

One Too Many
Messages
1,213
Location
Tartu, Estonia
The one with the brass is the better jacket for sure. I think the sleeves might have been a custom job when he replaced the main zip. It also has longer sleeve zip. Some Japanese repair/alteration guys can do a very good job and it's very common for them to take western jackets and slim it up after market for their custom fit. I also think that given enough time the bottom hem will relax and form to your shape, the previous owner was maybe packing more width there and stretched it out a bit. I've always thought the early 2000s Vansons were the better quality ones. My early 2000s Oxford was better in overall quality than my 2020 B. Congrats. The B block jackets is my favorite one from Vanson.
Thanks for the input!
The sleeve elbow seam position is a bit different between them yeah, so maybe it was a custom job and they shortened the sleeves from the shoulder rather than from the cuff?

Anyway, I'm still really on the fence about the CHP from Japan that I posted.
And I have less than 17 hours left to decide whether I want to bid on it or not.
Seems like the buyee 20% discount off Yahoo auctions is a very rare occurrence, so this might be as good of a chance as I'll ever get.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
Thanks for the input!
The sleeve elbow seam position is a bit different between them yeah, so maybe it was a custom job and they shortened the sleeves from the shoulder rather than from the cuff?

Anyway, I'm still really on the fence about the CHP from Japan that I posted.
And I have less than 17 hours left to decide whether I want to bid on it or not.
Seems like the buyee 20% discount off Yahoo auctions is a very rare occurrence, so this might be as good of a chance as I'll ever get.
I think they can change from the top of the underside sleeve panel and leave the zipper gusset cuff original. Bedo did it for this Schott sleeve extension, but same idea.
I also thought that armholes is a no touch zone but I’ve seen sleeve tapers that go all the way up and side taper and the armhole gets changed.
IMG_0956.jpeg
IMG_0957.jpeg

It’s pretty common to custom a OTR jacket there, it’s the best way imo to get a true customized jacket. Here’s another customized B jacket, just a little nip tuck here and there and delete the belts.
IMG_0955.jpeg


There are always deals on Buyee/From Japan. Sometimes the supply is very dry. But I think it’s gonna be buyers market for the year to come.
 

Al 916

One Too Many
Messages
1,915
Location
GB
I think they can change from the top of the underside sleeve panel and leave the zipper gusset cuff original. Bedo did it for this Schott sleeve extension, but same idea.
I also thought that armholes is a no touch zone but I’ve seen sleeve tapers that go all the way up and side taper and the armhole gets changed.
View attachment 579169 View attachment 579170
It’s pretty common to custom a OTR jacket there, it’s the best way imo to get a true customized jacket. Here’s another customized B jacket, just a little nip tuck here and there and delete the belts.
View attachment 579171

There are always deals on Buyee/From Japan. Sometimes the supply is very dry. But I think it’s gonna be buyers market for the year to come.

I found a chap with 30 years exp of leather tailoring who has made perfect jobs Rex'ing the sleeves of three of mine (F, B and Maverick) The work that goes into it is not just cutting off some length, he rebuilds the entire sleeve.

I have a good idea that he could do tapering (may be asking him on a 9.5" bicep) and if another does not sell maybe a custom shortening.

Looking at the great fit on @MrProper 's jackets tells me I never want to be bothered with mediocre ....

I think this outlook started with the great fit on the Highwayman I had from @Canuck Panda

20230831_181151.jpg
 
Last edited:

cpstecroix

New in Town
Messages
6
Hey all. First iff this is a great thread and it has convinced me to get my first Vanson…i had thought about a five star jacket but I saw enough people say they wish they had just started with a Vanson that i was convinced.

I am going to custom fit a Maverick because i find a lot of cool looking things dont fit me right; i am built like a retired rugby loose forward/nfl linebacker and the chest shoulders are hard to fit normally.

I was wondering if anyone had any things they wish they did or didnt do when ordering a custom jacket. I’m looking for a brown leather that will patina with age and adding hand warmer pockets and a zipper/storm flap to the Maverick. Hardware will be brass. I am also not a designer lol so i am happy to take any advice.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,969
Where are you based? Rather than doing guess work, if you’re in the U.S. you should go to a Vanson dealer with the measuring tools. They have a pretty extensive fit system.

That said, I think a Maverick or similar jacket is sort of a waste of a custom jacket order because the pretty simple, textile-like design is pretty forgiving of suboptimal fit.

I think a zippered Maverick would be a bad idea. There are some similar jacket types that lend themselves better to a zipper. See some of the rancher jackets Ton has been exploring recently for examples.

What are your measurements like? If you want hand warmers, the Schott 121 might end up providing what you want without the need to go custom.
 

cpstecroix

New in Town
Messages
6
Where are you based? Rather than doing guess work, if you’re in the U.S. you should go to a Vanson dealer with the measuring tools. They have a pretty extensive fit system.

That said, I think a Maverick or similar jacket is sort of a waste of a custom jacket order because the pretty simple, textile-like design is pretty forgiving of suboptimal fit.

I think a zippered Maverick would be a bad idea. There are some similar jacket types that lend themselves better to a zipper. See some of the rancher jackets Ton has been exploring recently for examples.

What are your measurements like? If you want hand warmers, the Schott 121 might end up providing what you want without the need to go custom.
Thanks, this is the sort of feedback i was hoping for. There is a lot to consider and lots i dont know.

I am in Canada , on the west coast. I have a 50” chest, 18”neck and arms, and a 36” waist. I typically fit an xl ok in most north american clothes, xxl in the skinny hipster stuff….japanese sizes font exist for me lol
 

Bluechel

Practically Family
Messages
993
Thanks, this is the sort of feedback i was hoping for. There is a lot to consider and lots i dont know.

I am in Canada , on the west coast. I have a 50” chest, 18”neck and arms, and a 36” waist. I typically fit an xl ok in most north american clothes, xxl in the skinny hipster stuff….japanese sizes font exist for me lol
Arm length probably around 25" maybe? Or you're the real Rex.....
 

f2002q

One of the Regulars
Messages
167
Thanks, this is the sort of feedback i was hoping for. There is a lot to consider and lots i dont know.

I am in Canada , on the west coast. I have a 50” chest, 18”neck and arms, and a 36” waist. I typically fit an xl ok in most north american clothes, xxl in the skinny hipster stuff….japanese sizes font exist for me lol

I have almost the same measurements and fit great in an Enfield size 48. It has all that you’re looking for including a beefy #10 zipper. If you want a more form fitting you could try a size 46.
 

barnabus

One Too Many
Messages
1,491
Location
Britain's oldest recorded town
Vanson have some limited edition stock colours in their Roma hide at the moment.

This Comet looks phenomenal in "rust/driftwood tan".


Screenshot_20240223-080143.png
 

discodaft

New in Town
Messages
30
Location
ATL
For anyone who has been to Vanson HQ, I'm wondering if the selection at the shop is worth a 1.5ish hr drive as I'll be visiting inlaws a little north of Boston. "Worth it" is relative I know, I only mention that because it'll be borrowing inlaw car, have a 3 month old, etc.. really wanting to make the jaunt but also curious about the selection in the Fall River spot
 

Schambach

Practically Family
Messages
572
Location
Ithaca, NY
For anyone who has been to Vanson HQ, I'm wondering if the selection at the shop is worth a 1.5ish hr drive as I'll be visiting inlaws a little north of Boston. "Worth it" is relative I know, I only mention that because it'll be borrowing inlaw car, have a 3 month old, etc.. really wanting to make the jaunt but also curious about the selection in the Fall River spot
I made the trip a couple times from the Hudson Valley. I think it’s worth it. It’s a cool place, especially if you like leather jackets and motorcycles. They do have some seconds and consignment stuff as well That you don’t see elsewhere.
 

discodaft

New in Town
Messages
30
Location
ATL
I made the trip a couple times from the Hudson Valley. I think it’s worth it. It’s a cool place, especially if you like leather jackets and motorcycles. They do have some seconds and consignment stuff as well That you don’t see elsewhere.
Thanks! Hopefully a brewery in the vicinity (I know Providence isn't far) to make it a bit of a "day trip" too for anyone who comes with
 

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