Vanson! Vanson! Vanson!

[ton312]

Good to know it's chrome-tanned, would love to see more pics of it "in the wild," especially after some time & miles [does that high-gloss ever dull down to more of a satin finish?...]

I can tell you it will for certain, and it doesn't take all that long. Even after a few wears, mine has dulled a bit. If I put more effort into it, I'm sure it would lose a good deal of shine. The waxy topcoat doesn't feel baked in. I need to wear mine more. I've been babying it a bit indoors to knock the new out.

 

[jglf]

Good to know it's chrome-tanned, would love to see more pics of it "in the wild," especially after some time & miles [does that high-gloss ever dull down to more of a satin finish?...]

I’m probably in the minority here, but I prefer chrome or combo tanned for jackets and shoes because they are more exposed to the elements and flexed a lot more than belts and accessories which I prefer veg tanned.

The gloss does go away with wear, but I haven’t worn my jackets enough to tell you how matte it becomes. I can say that the dark maple is grainier and softer than the blue bainbridge which is a lot stiffer and more uniform in texture and color.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I’m probably in the minority here, but I prefer chrome or combo tanned for jackets and shoes because they are more exposed to the elements and flexed a lot more than belts and accessories which I prefer veg tanned.

The gloss does go away with wear, but I haven’t worn my jackets enough to tell you how matte it becomes. I can say that the dark maple is grainier and softer than the blue bainbridge which is a lot stiffer and more uniform in texture and color.

This^^^

Veg Tan jackets needs some maintenance every time it gets wet. Chrome tan get soaked, get dry and repeat without needing anything. If I live in California then yes to veg tan. But in the PNW, chrome tan is the better option. It rains a lot here.

But bags only in veg tan. Doesn't get wet as much as jackets and looks nicer in veg tan.

 

[Aloysius]

This^^^

Veg Tan jackets needs some maintenance every time it gets wet. Chrome tan get soaked, get dry and repeat without needing anything. If I live in California then yes to veg tan. But in the PNW, chrome tan is the better option. It rains a lot here.

But bags only in veg tan. Doesn't get wet as much as jackets and looks nicer in veg tan.

I get a bit of contrarian joy over my preference for chrome tan given the veg tan fetish endemic in this subculture, while veg tan jackets (especially fast-fading ones!) were not a thing in the golden age. Chrome tan for clothing, veg tan for objects and saddlery (usually).

I will say though that there are some ways to mitigate— there’s been much talk about “blackened brown” Vicenza here for its “tea core” properties; people think the point is that it will fade to brown. It will not, really. If they’re after that sort of fast distressing they’re much better off with CXL or some other pull up.

The actual significance of the blackened brown is that the black top coat provides a protective layer to the leather, giving it better water repellency and longevity.

 

[jglf]

I get a bit of contrarian joy over my preference for chrome tan given the veg tan fetish endemic in this subculture, while veg tan jackets (especially fast-fading ones!) were not a thing in the golden age. Chrome tan for clothing, veg tan for objects and saddlery (usually).

I will say though that there are some ways to mitigate— there’s been much talk about “blackened brown” Vicenza here for its “tea core” properties; people think the point is that it will fade to brown. It will not, really. If they’re after that sort of fast distressing they’re much better off with CXL or some other pull up.

The actual significance of the blackened brown is that the black top coat provides a protective layer to the leather, giving it better water repellency and longevity.

Absolutely. It also bothers me when people say that veg tanned is more durable than chrome tanned. All things being equal, chrome tan is stronger, more durable, and will last longer than veg tanned. That is why the military switched over from veg to chrome tanned for boots and jackets. I know there are examples of veg tanned saddles that are 100 years old, but that leather is like 14oz and doesn’t constantly flex. Veg tan breaks down and cracks a lot sooner than chrome tanned, although I do admit that it is beautiful and smells amazing.

 

[Aloysius]

Absolutely. It also bothers me when people say that veg tanned is more durable than chrome tanned. All things being equal, chrome tan is stronger, more durable, and will last longer than veg tanned. That is why the military switched over from veg to chrome tanned for boots and jackets. I know there are examples of veg tanned saddles that are 100 years old, but that leather is like 14oz and doesn’t constantly flex. Veg tan breaks down and cracks a lot sooner than chrome tanned, although I do admit that it is beautiful and smells amazing.

Chrome tanned leather can smell and look amazing, too.

As for military jackets, they were chrome tan to begin with. The idea that they were chunky veg tan things was invented by the repro industry because people wanted heavy jackets. Veg tan was really a saddlery material at the time; it would have been considered an unusual choice to use for clothing.

 

[Seank]

This^^^

Veg Tan jackets needs some maintenance every time it gets wet. Chrome tan get soaked, get dry and repeat without needing anything. If I live in California then yes to veg tan. But in the PNW, chrome tan is the better option. It rains a lot here.

But bags only in veg tan. Doesn't get wet as much as jackets and looks nicer in veg tan.

I get what y’all are saying…but I live in the PNW and wear veg tanned jackets every day in the rain. I have honestly never done any maintenance to any of my jackets. Nothing. I just wear them. And they all look no worse for it. My chrome tanned look fine to and yes, they seem to bead the water off more so (like a fresh waxed car) than the veg tanned which seem to soak it up, spotting when wet….but I just hang em up, throw them on the floor…whatever. I don’t take any special care with my jackets…don’t abuse them, but don’t do any “maintenance”. And I wouldn’t worry a bit about them.
I’ve never given it a second thought and they all look fine. You’d never know. This is with my Shinki jackets, Vicenza, Thedi…whatever. They’re fine.

 

[El Marro]

I will say though that there are some ways to mitigate— there’s been much talk about “blackened brown” Vicenza here for its “tea core” properties; people think the point is that it will fade to brown. It will not, really. If they’re after that sort of fast distressing they’re much better off with CXL or some other pull up.

I’m not sure that it won’t ever fade to brown but it sure doesn’t seem to fade quickly. I have a type 3 in this leather and it still looks brand new. My IH riders jacket, made from a chrome tanned “tea core” horsehide, is also holding the black topcoat remarkably well despite having seen a lot of wear in the last year.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

I’m not sure that it won’t ever fade to brown but it sure doesn’t seem to fade quickly. I have a type 3 in this leather and it still looks brand new. My IH riders jacket, made from a chrome tanned “tea core” horsehide, is also holding the black topcoat remarkably well despite having seen a lot of wear in the last year.

Ive seen different batches of Vic on here do different things. The one I have from maybe 2 years ago has had at least 3 owners and has gotten a ton of wear, and I don't see a spec of brown or even a "warm" glow. Meanwhile I remember someone posted a photo of an almost brand new one in a truck, and it had a very distinct warm glow. I'm expecting in either case that with lots and lots of wears, you'll get some brown peeking through on high stress areas (like a vein or cracking sort of effect) or of course on any chips, scratches, etc.

But I agree, if you want quick vintage vibe, my black CXL with a very thin top coat is more brown than black at this point (solid 1 year of wear by previous owner). And it's a breakdown to brown across the board, not just the stress points. More like a paint spray effect.

 

[MrProper]

I asked Vanson about a custom Oxford competition weight.
Custom costs 250$ extra. I.e. Until the jacket is with me, it will cost about 920 EUR.
Although I gave my jacket measurements, they still want to have the body measurements.
But I assume that the measurements should be identical to those of my other jackets, right?
Or do you notice any discrepancies in the measurements to your other jackets?
Delivery time is about 16 weeks.

I think I'll postpone the Oxford. No response to another mail from me. And I think, a jacket simply after my given jacket measurements they do not want to make. But that doesn't matter. I'll just try it again sometime.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I think I'll postpone the Oxford. No response to another mail from me. And I think, a jacket simply after my given jacket measurements they do not want to make. But that doesn't matter. I'll just try it again sometime.

Vanson doesn't do email very well. I got much better results by calling them. But from Europe the time difference can be tricky.
I've always thought they did Tall sizes. Like regular 42 plus 2 inch sleeve / torso = 42 Tall. I could be wrong. Most American brands does this, so maybe I just assumed.
No worries though. Plenty of of awesome makers in the US to choose from!

 

[ton312]

I think I'll postpone the Oxford. No response to another mail from me. And I think, a jacket simply after my given jacket measurements they do not want to make. But that doesn't matter. I'll just try it again sometime.

I took the same path. Sent multiple emails that went unanswered, eventually got a hold of a guy, who took my order…6 months later…nothing. Wasn’t until I spoke with Kim that I felt I had actually placed an order. Which I ironically canceled. LOL.

 

[Carlos840]

I think I'll postpone the Oxford. No response to another mail from me. And I think, a jacket simply after my given jacket measurements they do not want to make. But that doesn't matter. I'll just try it again sometime.

I have had the same experience since Constantine left.
When he still worked there i woudl get same day answers, since he left i have sent three or four emails, none where answered. I don't think i'll order a custom Vanson again with the way their CS has gone.

 

[El Marro]

I took the same path. Sent multiple emails that went unanswered, eventually got a hold of a guy, who took my order…6 months later…nothing. Wasn’t until I spoke with Kim that I felt I had actually placed an order. Which I ironically canceled. LOL.

I have had the same experience since Constantine left.
When he still worked there i woudl get same day answers, since he left i have sent three or four emails, none where answered. I don't think i'll order a custom Vanson again with the way their CS has gone.

My one and only custom order was placed with Constantine early in the pandemic and it was a frustrating experience to be honest. Later I learned just how hard the pandemic had hit them (up to half of the work force out sick or leaving, material shortages, etc.) but at the time it was frustrating to keep hearing “another week or so” for months on end. Because Vanson does things in an assembly line fashion I knew that my jacket was more than half complete and that made it even more maddening to imagine it sitting there almost done but not quite…
I’m sorry to see that Constantine left Vanson because he was a great resource and he loves leather jacket as much as we do! I hope that Vanson finds there way without him. I love what they do and I would love to see them kicking ass again.

 

[morrison2951]

Vanson's reddish tan HH from years ago was the best of the best!

 

[Aloysius]

I guess Thurston (or another partner vendor) is the way to go now?

 

[ton312]

I think Thurstons bainbridge, particularly the redwood, is as close as you can get to Vansons former octagan or HH offerings in terms of appearance.

 

[El Marro]

I guess Thurston (or another partner vendor) is the way to go now?

That would be my path. Carrie is fun to work with and she is way smarter than to ever put an exact date on completion. She simply says “I know we’re getting close now, it should be ready soon…” and that is usually enough to calm me down for a little while

 

[Aloysius]

That would be my path. Carrie is fun to work with and she is way smarter than to ever put an exact date on completion. She simply says “I know we’re getting close now, it should be ready soon…” and that is usually enough to calm me down for a little while

Definitely!

I’ve kept myself from messaging her to check progress over the months I’ve been waiting (because who does that help?)

My problem is a different one, which is that in the mean time I ended up getting that 613SH at the Schott factory that felt much more immediately right than the Ridley I wore as a fit jacket, so I might have actually screwed myself by getting something just as good/better for a little over half the price, with months or weeks to go. I hope it feels different when it arrives.

Maybe that’s a warning to not do MTO in the future, or at least not as the first jacket of a particular type. Because it was the initial ordering process and wait that got me doing more research of DR jackets to begin with, leading to my discovery of the 613SH. So the wait can itself lead us to finding something!

For instance, if I’d gotten the 613SH first, I could have done the Thurston order for a very different type of jacket from Aero or Vanson.

 

[Mrfrown]

Definitely!

I’ve kept myself from messaging her to check progress over the months I’ve been waiting (because who does that help?)

My problem is a different one, which is that in the mean time I ended up getting that 613SH at the Schott factory that felt much more immediately right than the Ridley I wore as a fit jacket, so I might have actually screwed myself by getting something just as good/better for a little over half the price, with months or weeks to go. I hope it feels different when it arrives.

Maybe that’s a warning to not do MTO in the future, or at least not as the first jacket of a particular type. Because it was the initial ordering process and wait that got me doing more research of DR jackets to begin with, leading to my discovery of the 613SH. So the wait can itself lead us to finding something!

For instance, if I’d gotten the 613SH first, I could have done the Thurston order for a very different type of jacket from Aero or Vanson.

If its not reached production at Aero can't you change your order?