Vanson Padded CXL Commando

[Mich486]

Really sorry to hear that Carlos.

Jacket is killer thanks for the review. Surely one of the makers I largely overlook but this looks pretty good indeed.

 

[Ayeteael]

My condolences for your loss. Thank you for sharing your story and your ability to find some joy during an otherwise horrible time.

 

[hondurasdave47]

Carlos - I'm very sorry for your loss. Sending warm thoughts to you and your family.

 

[red devil]

I have been trying to write the full story of how i ended up getting this jacket made for a couple hours, but i don't seem to be able to write anything interresting right now.
Still, i really wanted to post pics of this jacket, she is a beauty and i know you guys will enjoy it.

Basically, last year i picked up a used X150 Commando in the classifieds, one thing led to another and before i knew it i had a second one on order, and then as you do on TFL, i bought a third one before the second one was even in production...

Yesterday was a crappy day, had my dad's funeral at 1pm...
As i arrived back home around 3pm i noticed a cardboard box had been thrown over my fence and was waiting in the middle of the yard, soaked, in the pouring rain. "Great i thought, now i also have to deal with a F'up jacket!"
Thankfully the jacket had been double bagged inside and it was perfectly dry.

So, here is the one that started it all, the regular (X-150):

The second i picked up this jacket i started thinking about a padded version and called Constantine at Vanson to get the ball rolling.
My dream was to have a padded CXL version made, with a few mods. My vision was a combination of the Commando, the LaBrea and the padded Buco J-81.
Planning it was great, Constantine is awesome, he got me in touch with Theresa, the lady who designed the Commando pattern and together we designed my dream commando live on Facetime, it was amazing!

A few months later, a CXL version appeard on eBay, i hit BIN as fast as my mouse allowed it, and still have no regrets getting the CXL version, if you find one get it!:

The Gold Standard:

Now, here is the one that arrived yesterday, the "Ultimate Commando"

It is basically i regular Commando with these mods:

CXL leather + Gold rayon lining.
-1" in body length front and back
tighten wrists circumference 2" getting rid of the weird flared wrists
chrome snap caps on lapels, no snap caps on collar
brass zippers (regular main zip, no double pull)
double stitch D pocket
add mutton collar, black collar snaps
add commando padding (the padding on the shoulders is inspired by the J-81)
add leather lined gun pocket
delete handwarmer pocket and ticket pocket.
no plastic stiffener in kidney pannel

IMO the jacket came out great, the stitching is great, the leather is great, i really like the mutton collar, it goes much lower in the neck than other collars i have, it really makes a difference. All in all i really have nothing bad to say about this jacket.
The only negative is that it took a year to deliver instead of the planned three months, but i can only blame Covid for that.
The fact that i had a part in designing it, that it came out so nice, and the fact that it was delivered to me on this day really makes it a special jacket to me... Because of it, a crappy day ended with a smile.

Interrestingly the leather is really different from my Gold standard.
The CXL on my GS has a super thin top coat, you can see the brown clearly through the black, it barely has any grain but it is rough and scratchy to the touch. That isn't the case on the Ultimate, it is much blacker, there is barely any brown showing through, it is shiny and smooth, much waxier, much grainier.
I had heard tha some makers were complaing about poor consistency at Horween, and i have to say that the fact that both these jackets were made from leather coming from a single batch is a bit shocking.
They really did a good job matching the hides...

Here are pics of both to compare:

And to finish, fit pics, the Gold Standard first, the Ultimate Second:

Edit: here is the original review i wrote about the commando:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vanson-x-left-field-commando.98275/

That came out really perfect! Wow!!!
As I told you, I really need to take your approach and order my jacket soon.

The samples they sent me never made it, so I think I will place the order wothout relying on them!

 

[willyto]

First of all, my condolences and I'm sorry for your loss.

I'm glad the day wasn't made worst with a wet and damp jacket by the courier poor service.

That is a fantastic jacket and it shows that you have experienced fit in so many jackets because you nailed it. It looks fantastic and once it breaks in and that front panel isn't so stiff with the D pocket it will look even better. Great design and purchase. At least small things like a good fitting jacket you had part in creating can make a terrible day less shitty.

 

[Monitor]

Not a good way to start a year. Truly sorry you had to go through all this. At least it's over & nowhere else to go now but away from it all.

Well, once again I am at a loss for words, either to express my admiration for this jacket or to simply add anything original that others already haven't said; This jacket has always been among the finest numbers by Vanson, an understated cross-zip, done in the meanest leather on the market so by adding padded bits & other small but significant alterations, you've really made it a tier of its own.

You know how well it fits you, no need to go there but I gotta admit, only now do I see that the previous Command indeed does appear to be too long. Never really thought it did as it is such a clean, simple looking jacket so nothing seemed stretched out of balance but it definitely does benefit tremendously by shortening. I'm surprised it's only 1 inch shorter. Looks more.

And more I look at it, more I prefer the D-pocket without the small pocket. TBH I never quite particularly cared for it much, though the D-pocket does look a bit empty without it but then again, the jacket definitely looks sleeker and meaner without it. It's really a relic of a feature, anyway. Nothing really fits in it anymore.

And I gotta just echo @dannyk's post regarding Vanson. They're still my favorite maker, even though embarrassingly enough I have nothing by them right now but each jacket that I've ever had by Vanson - and none of it was anything particularly special or unique - had made me fall in love with it, more than anything by anyone else.

 

[Fonzie]

Sorry for your loss, Carlos. Good to know that you found some unexpected joy in this difficult time for you. The jacket is perfect.

 

[TREEMAN]

Sorry to hear about your dad Carlos.
Great job with the Vansons !!

 

[J Leather Investigater]

I'm sorry to hear about your loss carlos, and I hope you experience any healing you may need.
Its good to hear that something brought a smile to your face as well. Its a bad a$$ jacket, I want one. I love that padded shoulder yoke!

 

[nick123]

Sorry, Carlos.

 

[Jin431]

Deepest condolences to you and your kin. The day and all the events that took place will forever be ingrained into your memory. May he Rest In Peace.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Very sorry for your loss, Carlos. My condolences to you and your family. Glad you got a beautiful new jacket at a time of need.

Looks awesome and fits you great.

In terms of the CXL variation, there is a term thrown around by boot fans called the "CXL lottery." It refers to the major variety in terms of CXL. It definitely seems to be inconsistent so I don't know how much the makers can do about it except for doing a good job clicking.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

My sympathies as well Carlos.
That's a tough one. Hang in there.

 

[Carlos840]

I just wanted to thank everyone for the kind words, you guys are awesome.

 

[powerserge]

Sorry for your loss and I hope you find the time to take care of yourself and reflect. I lost my mom last year and coming up on the 1 year anniversary of her passing. It’s still really tough at times but it gets better, especially with time. I hope you and your family stay strong during this tough time.

I thought this was a fantastic write up and just blown away by your attention to detail. You know exactly what you are looking and it shows from the improvement from the original. The new jacket fits so nicely and love the little detail you’ve added and removed. Excited to see how this one wears in and really cool how involved you were able to be in the design process. Also thank god that the jacket came away unscathed from the rain, definitely would’ve soured the experience. Great work and look forward to your next creation!!

 

[navetsea]

my condolence for your loss, the jacket looks great the length looks better than your gold standard. once fading happen if you ever wear it often enough that diamond padding might pop more interesting color variation I bet

 

[jonbuilder]

I send my condolences Carlos: family is the most important thing in life, It's hard losing love ones. You did a good job with your write up. I enjoy hearing about the Vanson story behind your custom Commando. I like the simplified pocket layout and taper sleeves at your wrists.

 

[Colin G]

Sorry to hear about your dad but I am happy for your very fine, new Vanson. The gold lining is my favourite part.

My dad is getting old and has kidney problems along with a bad heart so I know deep down he won't be around much longer. I'm mentally trying to prepare myself for that day but I know it will be tough. Hang in there.

 

[oneterrifichog]

Sorry to hear about your Dad Carlos. Hang in there.

All of those Vansons are gorgeous!

Wilbur

 

[roadking04]

Sorry for your loss. Hang in there bud.