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Vanson Horsehide Enfield

imported_Hungry_J0e

New in Town
Messages
12
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Hello -

New forum member, although I've been a lurker for quite awhile.

I've owned a Vanson perforated leather jacket for about 8 years now in a modern sportrider cut (it is their Properf Stallion). It's a superb jacket, fits me like a second skin, and works well for motorcycling the Florida heat where I live. I have the Vanson zip out liner (streamliner) which converts it well to the winter and holds up reasonably well in rain.

I get many compliments on the Stallion. But I've been looking for a jacket for quite awhile with a more traditional cut that won't make me look like the road warrior everywhere I go. I also hate mixing my leather, so wanted something in brown leather for when I wear a brown belt and footwear. I was also attracted to horsehide due to its reputation for long term durability and unique finish. I e-mailed Brian who handles special orders for Vanson about having a Comet made for me in brown horsehide. He said they don't do much in horsehide anymore, as it takes years for them to get leather that meets their quality, but they did have a few remaining Enfields in horsehide both in tan and black. Turns out their "tan" is really a reddish brown... but luckily they had one in my size 42. They are also having a sale of $100 off their jackets through the end of the year.

I thought about it for a few days and decided the Enfield cut actually looks pretty good. I called on the phone, Brian was out, and got Michael Vanson on the phone. He talked to me for a good bit about jackets and horsehide. He said a decade ago the horsehide they got was about 1.8mm thick, but nowadays it is about 1.3mm and even that is hard to come by. He wasn't sure why it was so difficult to get decent horsehide. He also said 5'10" (my height) was the reference height they used when making jackets. I should also note on Vanson's website they state they do not consider horsehide superior to cowhide for motorcycle jackets.

I put in the order and the jacket arrived today. Overall it appears to be fully up to Vanson quality. It weighs 4.5 lbs, and is what I would consider lightweight leather although it is thicker than most fashion weight leathers. Measuring with a caliper, the leather is about 1.1mm - 1.2mm thick. For comparison my Stallion Properf is 2.2mm thick. I have seen some previous comments on horsehide jackets commenting on the stiffness. This jacket doesn't strike me as unreasonably stiff, and in fact has multiple crossing creases giving it almost a marbled look. It does stand up on its own though, so maybe I'm just more accepting of stiff leather. Sleeve length is ideal for motorcycle riding, which is to say a bit long if you are looking for a pure fashion jacket. The non zip inside pocket also works as a pistol pocket for concealed carry (although not ideal), which probably isn't a consideration for most people but does play a role for me.

I'm also glad I stayed in a size 42 instead of going up a size. I like my clothes to fit close. Not tight or constricting but definitely not baggy. The Enfield is a near custom fit. A bit more generous than my Stallion so I can layer up underneath it.

Still weighing my options on whether to keep it or not. Overall I like the jacket alot, but the leather is a bit thinner than I would like, and not sure whether the marbling of the leather is a plus or a negative. I also really like mandarin collars, although I could see myself growing to like this jacket. If I send it back, I'll have a Comet custom made in brown with a two way zipper and a few other features...

Will post pictures as soon as I can get them!

Cheers,

- HJ
 

Ace Rimmer

One of the Regulars
Messages
185
Location
Philadelphia, PA
Welcome to TFL!

I have three Vansons myself, including a custom Comet. All are cowhide so I never thought about the thickness of Vanson's horsehide. I kinda assumed they were 1.5mm like their competition weight cowhide. So it's interesting to hear about actual measurements of a Vanson cowhide jacket.

Seeing as you are considering a Comet in brown, did Vanson say if they still offer the Metropolitan series Comet? If I recall correctly, the Metro series was not listed in their year 2000 master catalog but was offered in one of the subsequent updates. It sounds like you would prefer a non-biking jacket for this time around so that might fit your requirements.

Edit: I see that the Metro Comet is no longer offered. It seems like they have a Comet-esque jacket (called the CC) in their Metro line which is brown and has a two-way zipper so you might want to consider it. However, I also see that it is probably one of their Pakistani-made jackets (the sizing is S/M/L, not 38/40/42, which is usually a dead giveaway that it's not a US made Vanson). While the price tag reflects the offshored nature of the jacket ($375), it may not be desirable to some as an American made Vanson.

Hungry_J0e said:
They are also having a sale of $100 off their jackets through the end of the year.

You probably just caused a stampede of TFL'ers over to the Vanson website, you know that? lol
 

Cooperson

One Too Many
Messages
1,165
Location
Midlands UK
Welcome to the forum. Look forward to seeing the pics. Try and post some with you wearing it if possible - it's always good to see the fit.

Cheers
 

Bonneville

One of the Regulars
Messages
173
Location
Canada
Looking forward to seeing the pics too. You say the 42 feels almost like a custom fit on you, can you provide your actual measurements, ie: shoulder-shoulder width and your arm length to wrist bone. That will be helpful in assesing what a 42 actually fits like when we see the pics.
Thanks, Ted
 

captaincaveman1

A-List Customer
Messages
361
Location
--------------------------------
^^ Yeah please do.

I also typically wear a 42. I've shyed away from Vanson just because I wasn't sure how their sizing runs. I know on their sport jackets they run a bit small. I took one perf jacket sans armor and it fit more like a 40 - especially in the shoulders. Wondering if that trimmer cut carries over to their non-technical jacket range.
 

Navin323i

Practically Family
Messages
770
Location
Maryland, USA
Welcome to the forum and congrats on the new Vanson Enfield... definitely my favorite Vanson jacket. :)

What color did you wind up ordering and how long did it take for your jacket to arrive after you placed the order?

I'm looking forward to seeing your pics. Is the tan color you mentioned different than their "Octagon color" which is an orange/tan sort of color?

Did Vanson tell you what sizes they have left in stock for their horsehide Vanson Enfields?
 

imported_Hungry_J0e

New in Town
Messages
12
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Pictures below. You can see how the leather is a bit "crinkly" in texture. Color is "tan" which I would call a reddish brown. Took the photos in afternoon sunlight so artificial lighting wouldn't skew the colors. I had the sleeves zipped open in the unzippered shot so you could see how they hung naturally. In all other shots the sleeves are zippered. My assistant cut off my wrists in the wrist forward shot, was attempting to show where the sleeves hit in a riding position (they hit almost at the wrist bone).

I also included photos of my Stallion so you can see how the cut compares to my sport jacket. Armor is removed. Vanson sport jackets are very close cuts, which is appropriate for pure motorcycling jackets. The Enfield is a more generous cut, although not baggy like most American cuts.

My chest size is 41". Shoulder to shoulder is 21". Shoulder to wrist bone is 21.5". Not a tailor though so measurements may not be exact!

I would call Vanson direct to inquire about other sizes remaining. I'm almost certain they said 42 and 44 in brown and black horsehide.

After thinking about it I will probably return it. The crinkly finish isn't appealing to me, and I'll probably order a custom Model B or Comet in brown leather.

Cheers,

- HJ

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PhilR

New in Town
Messages
37
Location
SF Bay Area CA
Wow, those creases make the jacket look like it was covered with brown aluminum foil. The fit looks good. I wonder if a bit of use and break-in will tone down the wrinkles a bit?
 

53Effie

A-List Customer
Messages
420
Location
Orygun
Yes, welcome to the forum and congratulations on the new jacket. Looks really good. I have three Vansons in competition weight cowhide and they are among my favorites. Enjoy the new jacket in good health and again good to meet you here on the forum.

Mike
 

Ace Rimmer

One of the Regulars
Messages
185
Location
Philadelphia, PA
Joe, those pics are very revealing.

I've never seen a Vanson horsehide "live" (outside of the catalog) but I've always wondered why the pictures of the Vanson horsehide jackets in their year 2000 Master Catalog seem to have very "creased" leather, as you have observed. Not saying that my Aero FQHH Highwayman doesn't have "creases" but I'm in agreement with you that your jacket's back seems to have those creases in spades.

I think you'll be very happy with a brown Comet. I think you know this already, but the Comet's fit is more likely to be along the lines of your Stallion so you should adjust the sizing accordingly. When I ordered my custom Comet I was considering a Vanson Ace as well so I asked my dealer about sizing. He said the Comet and the Ace were cut on the same pattern; the Ace, as you know, is modeled after a traditional flat track jacket so it's cut a bit slimmer than Vanson's casual jackets. As I wanted my jacket to have armor, I opted for the Comet in the end.
 

jimmer_5

Practically Family
Messages
668
Location
Oregon
Joe -

I agree, I love the jacket but hate the thin crinkly horsehide. If you want horse, go with an Aero - their horsehide is amazing.

If you go for a custom Vanson, order it through a dealer rather than direct through Vanson - you'll save a lot of money that way. There is a dealer who posts here as "Dantheman" who has great prices on custom Vansons. I really want to order one through him, but haven't been able to yet (got another Aero on order, so the wife won't let me).

Anyhow, Dan specializes in movie style jackets, but he can get you a custom order through Vanson for a lot less money.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
Love the Enfield design but those wrinkles have put me off. Will they level out?

Can you weight the jacket for us and post the result?

Cheers - Seb
 

OneEyeMan

Practically Family
Messages
541
Location
United States
Hey all,
I just wanted to weigh in here.
I'm sure the wrinkles will disappear once the jacket has seen some good wear and attains a million more wrinkles. It'll all even out in the end. My Aero Highwayman was somewhat like this Enfield when I first got it. With constant wear and soakings in the rain, though, it all evened out and is now as soft as buttah!:p
Lenny
 

Chi-Town Co

Familiar Face
Messages
93
Location
Texas
Agree that with wear the wrinkles should soften up or at least get less noticable as the jacket gets more wrinkled. :) I haven't seen a picture of the horse Enfield up close like this before and I guess I was surprised by the amount of wrinkling for a thinner (1.1-1.2) thickness horse.. is this considered mid-weight horsehide? I do love the look and style of the Enfield.
 

imported_Hungry_J0e

New in Town
Messages
12
Location
Jacksonville, FL
jimmer_5 said:
If you go for a custom Vanson, order it through a dealer rather than direct through Vanson - you'll save a lot of money that way. There is a dealer who posts here as "Dantheman" who has great prices on custom Vansons. I really want to order one through him, but haven't been able to yet (got another Aero on order, so the wife won't let me).

Does Dantheman run Logan's Closet? I've seen their jackets and was considering putting a custom order in through him... I've heard good things.

After some thought looks like I'll return the jacket. I think my fiancé put it best when she said "it's okay but not the coolest thing ever." I get loads of compliments on my Stallion, and think it's the coolest thing ever... Will put in a custom order for a brown Comet or Model B with some stripes on the sleeves I think (sort of like the House jacket in a brown color scheme)...

Seems like lots of happy Comet fans. Anyone out there have the Model B jacket to compare the Comet to?

Cheers,

HJ
 

Johnnynotoes

Familiar Face
Messages
87
Location
S.W. Ontario Canada
Why hallo Joe! Hey. I was just wondering how weighty that jacket is. Is it a fairly thick hide? I'm just wondering if after a few months of good wear and a few strolls in the rain those crinkles won't just fall out so to speak. Love the style/colour but I agree the form ain't there just yet. Hard call but I think if it's a substantial hide to begin with then it may age well. New anything needs a good workout to prompt form n' fit.
 

jimmer_5

Practically Family
Messages
668
Location
Oregon
Hungry_J0e said:
Does Dantheman run Logan's Closet? I've seen their jackets and was considering putting a custom order in through him... I've heard good things.

After some thought looks like I'll return the jacket. I think my fiancé put it best when she said "it's okay but not the coolest thing ever." I get loads of compliments on my Stallion, and think it's the coolest thing ever... Will put in a custom order for a brown Comet or Model B with some stripes on the sleeves I think (sort of like the House jacket in a brown color scheme)...

Seems like lots of happy Comet fans. Anyone out there have the Model B jacket to compare the Comet to?

Cheers,

HJ


Joe -

Dan does run Logan's Closet - I had forgotten the name of his website when I posted about him. I have not ordered through him before, but I have heard nothing but good things and the prioce he quoted me was very good.

I love the idea of a Vanson "House" jacket with a brown color scheme - perhaps with cream colored stripes? Crap, my wife will kill me if I buy another jacket, but that sounds really cool..... Vanson's competition weight hide (thickest) is very supple. Unfortunately, the Horsehide I have seen from them recently is has that crinkly cardboard appearance, so I would definitely stick with the cow.

I just recently bought a brown Vanson jacket on eBay that I think is a model B - the seller called it a Model D, but that jacket is supposed to have a quilted lining, and mine is black cotton (according to Vanson's website, the lining is the only difference). It's a size 44, and it fits a bit snug, although I wouldn't call it tight. I have never handled a Mercury, so I can't compare the two, but this jacket is a very nice reddish brown color and it fits very nicely.

This is pure specualtion on my part, but I think the COmet is a tighter fitting jacket, while I believe the Model B is more like a collarless Enfield (a less tight fit).

Just my two cents, and good luck with your order!

- Jim
 

Navin323i

Practically Family
Messages
770
Location
Maryland, USA
Beautiful jacket, Joe! Yeah, Dantheman fortunately lives nearby me so I plan on getting some jackets from him... specifically his Smallville Clark Kent jackets since I'm a fan of that show. He's definitely a good guy and great to talk to.
 

imported_Hungry_J0e

New in Town
Messages
12
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Johnnynotoes said:
Why hallo Joe! Hey. I was just wondering how weighty that jacket is. Is it a fairly thick hide? I'm just wondering if after a few months of good wear and a few strolls in the rain those crinkles won't just fall out so to speak. Love the style/colour but I agree the form ain't there just yet. Hard call but I think if it's a substantial hide to begin with then it may age well. New anything needs a good workout to prompt form n' fit.

Fairly lightweight hide from what I'm used to. Based on the untrimmed leather panels in the slip zips it measures 1.1mm with my calipers. And that's being generous, with the calipers just starting to grab the leather and give friction if moved back and forth... If I pinch the calipers all the way so it really is firm down on the leather it measures 0.9mm.

Ultimately though not sure I'll ever be happy with anything but a mandarin collar. Tried the Enfield since they had it in my size and I like some of the Enfield horsehide I'd seen posted around here.

Cheers,

- HJ
 

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