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Unusual Cafe Racer style Half belt

Buco

Familiar Face
Messages
96
Location
London
I remember stumbling across a very old thread on here, which i think was posted by baron kurtz, which was a very similar jacket to this one and it was the first time i'd ever seen a jacket of that style. When i came across this jacket recently i remember thinking back to that thread.

A really unusual style of jacket with the cafe racer style collar and half back belt. This one is in beautiful condition, with a lightning zipper so i guess its canadian made. The original lining was shot so we replaced it but kept the original horsehide tag.

I thought this jacket deserved its own thread, it really is one of my all time favourites







 

pipvh

Practically Family
Messages
644
Location
England
I love mandarin collar jackets that aren't cafe racers. This is a beauty, all right!
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
The Baron has had a coupel of jackets in that general style, I think. I'm sure he mentioned one of them was German too, but I might well be wrong on that. It's an interesting design, certainly. Actually that particular jacket reminds me a lot of the Aero Speedway, with a different collar. It's not a style I've seen reproduced anywhere with a mandarin collar, though. I wonder what the original design purpose was - casual jacket? Bike jacket? I tend to the view that mandarin collars don't look 'right' with a tie (purely a personal, aesthetic opinion), but of course that doesnt mean this was designed with the idea of it being worn without neckwear in mind.
 

Ben Langworthy

New in Town
Messages
28
Sorry I know this is an old thread but I love this style! I also thought I'd pitch in my example:
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b.jpg
 

Ben Langworthy

New in Town
Messages
28
It's Canadian and made from Horsehide with a nickel plated Lighthing zip.

When I got the jacket it had been in the same family from new. It had belonged to the sellers grandfather who had bought it new in Canada at the begging of WW2 when they we being trained as a pilot.
Although civilian purchase I like to think that in those early training flights they might have worn the jacket!
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,747
Location
Illinois
It's Canadian and made from Horsehide with a nickel plated Lighthing zip.

When I got the jacket it had been in the same family from new. It had belonged to the sellers grandfather who had bought it new in Canada at the begging of WW2 when they we being trained as a pilot.
Although civilian purchase I like to think that in those early training flights they might have worn the jacket!

I did not know there was such a thread. Here is a Durable from Canada in blue horsehide. The HH maker quit tanning leather in 1955. I just received another Cafe Racer Half-belt in Deerskin.

That is a great history on that jacket. I see that label peeking out with the Pony Horse Head.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EFywS8z2PeeKPVsG6

DSC05693.jpg
DSC05705.jpg
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DSC05725.jpg
DSC05738.jpg
DSC05746.jpg
DSC05765.jpg
 

Ben Langworthy

New in Town
Messages
28
Thanks for the replies! Yeah its a hell of a jacket especially with the history!
I have to admit if I had that history with a garment in my family I couldn't ever imagine parting with it.

I love the two tone on the its pockets as well, Incidentally it's made by Perfect Leather Garment Co in Toronto, Does anyone know anything about them?

Those are some incredible jackets tmitchell59 That Blue one especially, really great to have the tannery label on there to!
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,868
Location
East Java

yellowfever

One of the Regulars
Messages
193
I did not know there was such a thread. Here is a Durable from Canada in blue horsehide. The HH maker quit tanning leather in 1955. I just received another Cafe Racer Half-belt in Deerskin.

That is a great history on that jacket. I see that label peeking out with the Pony Horse Head.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EFywS8z2PeeKPVsG6

View attachment 307499 View attachment 307501 View attachment 307502 View attachment 307503 View attachment 307504 View attachment 307505 View attachment 307506

I’m not normally a fan of pleated backs, especially on a cafe racer type jacket where the whole look is about a clean, functional and minimalist approach. Especially in such jackets I find too much back detailing a bit fussy and prefer the ‘less is more’ approach of a majestic one piece back, or maybe a nice yoke or kidney panel... BUT I’ve got to say this kind of thing could totally change my mind... what a beautiful jacket! Interesting and different. The back has shades of vintage German flight jackets with the clear and high waist and those pleats. And I love that shade of blue and the labels are the icing on the cake. Shame it’s such a small jacket size, but very interesting indeed...
 

jonbuilder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,563
Location
Grass Valley CA Foothills
I did not know there was such a thread. Here is a Durable from Canada in blue horsehide. The HH maker quit tanning leather in 1955. I just received another Cafe Racer Half-belt in Deerskin.

That is a great history on that jacket. I see that label peeking out with the Pony Horse Head.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EFywS8z2PeeKPVsG6

View attachment 307499 View attachment 307501 View attachment 307502 View attachment 307503 View attachment 307504 View attachment 307505 View attachment 307506
That is one cool jacket, I am envious. How is the fit Terry?
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,652
chest pockets seems very high, and the band collar doesn't taper

Agreed on the pocket placement, and would prefer them double welted rather than exposed zipper tape.

All those details are adjustable with JL of course.

What do you mean about collar taper?
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,868
Location
East Java
Agreed on the pocket placement, and would prefer them double welted rather than exposed zipper tape.

All those details are adjustable with JL of course.

What do you mean about collar taper?
Tapered toward the neck, the collar band is cut as a curved strip of leather rather than a straight piece of leather strip. Same goes for jacket belt if you want it to fit right better curved it a little upward, my mom told me that once haha...

it is already curved a bit on that jacket just not enough for my eyes since I have thin neck:( probably I always over exaggerate of that part , can also made more tapered look if the front neck is a bit more V shaped like some other examples above with mandarin collar.
 
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