Unsure of my size

[CoreyM]

Having a dilemma as to what size I should look for in an ANJ-4 jacket.

I previously owned a size 44 Eastman Irvin which fit well but I didn't care for the bulk of the shoulders/arms as a daily winter jacket and found it tough to drive in.

I currently have an Eastman D1 that I swore I ordered as a Large but the tag says XLarge. It fits nicely. Snug but not tight with full movement.

I am 5' 11. Relaxed my chest measures 41" and with a deep breath it is 42 1/4. My waist is 41" and at my belly button it is 42 1/2" I weigh 200 pounds.

I was looking to buy an Aero ANJ-4 but they recommended I go for a size 42 when given these numbers which just seems wrong to me.

Opinions?

 

[Big J]

Having a dilemma as to what size I should look for in an ANJ-4 jacket.

I previously owned a size 44 Eastman Irvin which fit well but I didn't care for the bulk of the shoulders/arms as a daily winter jacket and found it tough to drive in.

I currently have an Eastman D1 that I swore I ordered as a Large but the tag says XLarge. It fits nicely. Snug but not tight with full movement.

I am 5' 11. Relaxed my chest measures 41" and with a deep breath it is 42 1/4. My waist is 41" and at my belly button it is 42 1/2" I weigh 200 pounds.

I was looking to buy an Aero ANJ-4 but they recommended I go for a size 42 when given these numbers which just seems wrong to me.

Opinions?

I'm not sure why the sizing suggestion seems strange to you.
These are wartime patterns cut for men in very good physical shape. These men would have been close to (or indeed had) an 8-10 inch drop in measurements between chest and waist. To accommodate this, many jackets were cut from patterns that made waist widths narrower than chest widths e.g. M442a (although not later contract A-2's).

According to your measurements above, you have a waist that is the same or wider, than your chest. Hence, it seems to me that the manufacturer is recommending a larger size jacket (that is to say a larger chest size) so that you can zip it up over your stomach.

 

[Dumpster Diver]

That sounds fine to me, you are better to get one a size or two up from your True size anyway, even a 44 couldnt hurt ya.

For example, my Star sportswear G-1 Jacket is a size 40 and fits me like a GLOVE literally when I am at my ideal weight which is about 175 and I am Six Foot even. Right now I weigh about 157 and my ideal B-3 Jacket size is probably 44, but 46 is perfect if I gain too much weight or Want to layer up with clothes, But I duno, Im not an expert.

My Gramps was in the military and always joked they would give you boots two sizes too big for you (so that if you got shot you would stay standing up)

Same with WWII pants made of wool, they gotta be a lot bigger because they would shrink and break in on you after a few months of being lived in.

I think leather tends to shrink too sometimes.

Get a size up in my opinion.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Given your stats, take the advice to size up. I'm 6ft2 with a 34 waist and 41 chest wear a 42 or 44 in most jackets,

 

[nick123]

I'm pretty sure that (for A-2s) I'll need to size up on Eastman. Same with Aero and BK. I think it's safe to assume the military repros in general run at least a size small. I think it's referred to as the "wartime" fit. Where a repro that's marked a 40 measures closer to today's 38. Just track down the measurements for that particular garment and you'll be fine.

 

[Big J]

I've become very leery about advising someone else concerning sizing on these type of threads. Most often the opinions can become more confusing and sometimes seem even somewhat contradictory.
However, if the customer takes the supposedly expert suggestions of the jacket maker, and then it just doesn't fit right, then the manufacturer is liable for adjustments to make it a better fit. If I wasn't sure about what size was best for me, I would certainly put the responsibility on them, rather than guessing about what might seem more reasonable.
There's my 2¢.
HD

Best answer so far.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I've become very leery about advising someone else concerning sizing on these type of threads. Most often the opinions can become more confusing and sometimes seem even somewhat contradictory.
However, if the customer takes the supposedly expert suggestions of the jacket maker, and then it just doesn't fit right, the manufacturer is liable for adjustments to make it a better fit. If I wasn't sure about what size was best for me, I would certainly put the responsibility on them, rather than guessing about what might seem more reasonable.
There's my 2¢.
HD

 

[Sockeye]

Honestly, you could burn money in getting jackets sizes wrong than a plane ticket to Seattle to visit Insurrection in the U.S., or Aero directly from Europe. Try all the jackets you want on and get your sizes for future orders. While this on the surface seems crazy, a new aero will run you $1,100-1,300 and re-sell for $600-$800...a plane ticket is going to be cheaper. Plus you'll have the memories of the overwhelming smell of leather.

 

[handymike]

better yet, send the measurements to Carrie and let the fit jacket come to you.

 

[Sockeye]

I'll actually contest that. I've had maybe 4 or 5 fit jackets, and several others owned. Two I currently own are both aero cafe racers, both measure almost to the millimeter the same in pit to pit, waist, shoulder, back and sleeve length. Both with cotton lining. One is steer and one is vincenza. They fit totally different. Not just the feel of mobility, but where the cuffs end up, how much room there is beneath, etc... The leather type makes an enormous difference in fit, and that is a factor that cannot be controlled for. Yes, you can get another fit jacket, but the shipping at $60 each way is on you.

 

[IXL]

If ever I purchase a jacket that does not fit properly, I'm going to blame Fanch.....always.
(He's a damn Texan, you know.)

 

[nick123]

Honestly, you could burn money in getting jackets sizes wrong than a plane ticket to Seattle to visit Insurrection in the U.S., or Aero directly from Europe. Try all the jackets you want on and get your sizes for future orders. While this on the surface seems crazy, a new aero will run you $1,100-1,300 and re-sell for $600-$800...a plane ticket is going to be cheaper. Plus you'll have the memories of the overwhelming smell of leather.

I've thought of making the trip as well. That would be so fun. The problem is the reaction you'd get when you'd tell others the reason for your trip. lol

I can just picture it..."Yeah, I'm flying to Seattle this weekend?"

"What for? Business?"

"Jackets"

"Ok. But be sure to stop at the mental hospital first"

lol

 

[Carrie @ Thurston Bros.]

I'll actually contest that. I've had maybe 4 or 5 fit jackets, and several others owned. Two I currently own are both aero cafe racers, both measure almost to the millimeter the same in pit to pit, waist, shoulder, back and sleeve length. Both with cotton lining. One is steer and one is vincenza. They fit totally different. Not just the feel of mobility, but where the cuffs end up, how much room there is beneath, etc... The leather type makes an enormous difference in fit, and that is a factor that cannot be controlled for. Yes, you can get another fit jacket, but the shipping at $60 each way is on you.

We provide a fit jacket free-of-charge on the first fitting, both to domestic and Canadian customers...

 

[Damo]

We provide a fit jacket free-of-charge on the first fitting, both to domestic and Canadian customers...

Who pays to have the fit jacket sent back? After that who pays for shipping of the actual finished jacket? Thanks Carrie.

 

[Carrie @ Thurston Bros.]

Who pays to have the fit jacket sent back? After that who pays for shipping of the actual finished jacket? Thanks Carrie.

Shipping of the fit jacket back to us is the customer's responsibility. It usually costs about $25-30 USD for domestic shipping and $40-60 USD for international shipping from Canada. Shipping of the finished custom jacket is on us, both domestic and to Canada!

 

[Sockeye]

With insurance and tracking I've never been able to ship my fit jacket back for less than $60, but that was via UPS. Perhaps USPS would have been more reasonable!

 

[Damo]

Shipping of the fit jacket back to us is the customer's responsibility. It usually costs about $25-30 USD for domestic shipping and $40-60 USD for international shipping from Canada. Shipping of the finished custom jacket is on us, both domestic and to Canada!

Thx Carrie!! I now know how it works!

 

[Peacoat]

Shipping of the fit jacket back to us is the customer's responsibility. It usually costs about $25-30 USD for domestic shipping and $40-60 USD for international shipping from Canada. Shipping of the finished custom jacket is on us, both domestic and to Canada!

You can't beat this type of service. Seems to me it cost about $30 to send my fit jackets back to Carrie. The fit jacket is the only way to go. Having purchased both ways on multiple occasions, dealing directly with the manufacturer is a crapshoot. Dealing with Carrie/Wade is pretty much spot on. I have sent Wade photos of me wearing the jacket and then talked to him as soon as he received them for additional tweaking.

 

[Damo]

You can't beat this type of service. Seems to me it cost about $30 to send my fit jackets back to Carrie. The fit jacket is the only way to go. Having purchased both ways on multiple occasions, dealing directly with the manufacturer is a crapshoot. Dealing with Carrie/Wade is pretty much spot on. I have sent Wade photos of me wearing the jacket and then talked to him as soon as he received them for additional tweaking.

Yes I agree, after ordering from a manufacturer and also a custom using the fit jacket process i find it very difficult to order from a manufacturer again. I was very close to ordering an octagon comet with the past sale but once I add a couple of inches to the length the price of the jacket creeps up fast along with having to compromise on a measurement here and there. Seems like for me the way to go is through Johnson or Carrie (I haven't done yet) or find a used jacket at a decent price and have it altered.

 

[CoreyM]

Sorry I guess my post wasn't as clear as I had hoped.

When I said it seemed wrong that I go for the size 42 as per the manufacturer Its because I figured a 44 would be more in line. When I last bought a suit it was a 44 after being measured by the salesman.

My Irvin I bought used was a 44 and a good fit so I thought maybe I was missing something with Aero's sizes?

Customer service wise Insurrections policy sounds like a winner. I had just spotted an ANJ-4 on the clearance side of Aero's website in a 44 and got excited. ~Hey I'm a 44!~ But to be safe I e-mailed my measurements to them and now we are here.

In no way whatsoever would I hold anyone on a web forum accountable for ME ordering the wrong size jacket.