Uneven grain/crease on a Horsehide?

[Monitor]

To the OP, if thats bothers you I'd consider not buying any leather jacket at all - in about 2 weeks thats going to completely dissappear as all the other parts of the jacket get broken in to - particularly in that high movement area. Its a complete non-issue, to the point that (and I really dont mean this to sound rude), I thought this might be a parody post at first.

I'm glad that for once, I didn't have to be the one to say this.

 

[Blackadder]

Chrome tanned corrected leather is more resistant to wear and since they are corrected, they are less grainy. Judging from your comment, I'd suggest forget veg tanned or combination tanned full grain like Shiniki or Horween and that include the Schott models in Horween CXL HH.
For full grain leather, I'd say DH did a pretty good job with your jacket as the best practice is to use the animal's softer and stretched parts (close to the belly) on sleeves especially the underside of the sleeves.

 

[MrProper]

To the OP, if thats bothers you I'd consider not buying any leather jacket at all -

I would specify and say don't buy a high quality leather jacket from a hip label that uses uncorrected leather, but rather buy from the manufacturers that either heavily correct or slather a lot of top coat on it. Then the leather will be exactly the same in every place.
My Aero FQHH also had uneven leather and I loved it.

 

[zebedee]

It's fine, it's all normal. Be at peace, etc.

 

[Yango]

I’ve heard that type of leather jokingly referred to as ‘ball sack leather’.

I would not expect to see mixed panels of leather used so prominently on a $2k jacket. I’d send it back.

I bought a leather jacket 22 years ago, with that type of leather used on the left sleeve. I didn’t really care, firstly, because it was a cheap jacket, and secondly, because I knew nothing about leather at that time.
I can tell you without a doubt, that this ‘ballsack leather’ is not as durable, and does not wear as well as the smooth, ‘normal’ panels. I have excessive wear and damage (holes) on the left sleeve where this wrinkled leather is—whereas the other sleeve is fine.

If the wrinkled panels are used in, say, the armpit area, or another small, out of the way area that is not likely to get direct wear—then maybe I’d accept that. But not on a sleeve, or main front or back panel. That’s not acceptable on a $2k jacket as far as I’m concerned.

Just my 2¢ based on my experience.

 

[zebedee]

^ Even given this stridency, leave your scrotum be. Don't iron it or try to stretch it out.

 

[blobsterroll]

Thanks everyone for your input. So now I understand that this is just part of the leather jacket game.

Even though a clip that starts at 1:09 at

exists showing exactly that jacket makers have an option to choose which part of the hide will be used for the leather jacket. And things like Quality Control is most definitely a thing, and expected of a $2K jacket.

I suppose thats just how fashion is.

 

[blobsterroll]

I’ve heard that type of leather jokingly referred to as ‘ball sack leather’.

I would not expect to see mixed panels of leather used so prominently on a $2k jacket. I’d send it back.

I bought a leather jacket 22 years ago, with that type of leather used on the left sleeve. I didn’t really care, firstly, because it was a cheap jacket, and secondly, because I knew nothing about leather at that time.
I can tell you without a doubt, that this ‘ballsack leather’ is not as durable, and does not wear as well as the smooth, ‘normal’ panels. I have excessive wear and damage (holes) on the left sleeve where this wrinkled leather is—whereas the other sleeve is fine.

If the wrinkled panels are used in, say, the armpit area, or another small, out of the way area that is not likely to get direct wear—then maybe I’d accept that. But not on a sleeve, or main front or back panel. That’s not acceptable on a $2k jacket as far as I’m concerned.

Just my 2¢ based on my experience.

Thank you. Yes that particular spot is soft and more pliable than the rest of the jacket, not really thinner or anything.

 

[Monitor]

And things like Quality Control is most definitely a thing, and expected of a $2K jacket.

Quality control doesn't apply in this case.

Some want as wildly grainy leather as possible - People will happily drop over $2K on a jacket by Fine Creek, maker which deliberately uses mismatched panels - while others want smooth, flawless, mirror like hide.
There are brands that specialize in either, with most being somewhere in between so It is difficult enough for a maker to be consistent with the leather thickness. Having any control over texture is virtually impossible.

To cut this short, when it comes to leather jackets such as the ones we talk about here, quality control should extend only to cutting and stitching. All else is a lottery and anyone in the market for a jacket made from full-grain, uncorrected leather should never expect uniformity.

This is what one of the most coveted & priciest leather looks like.

 

[AeroFan_07]

I think it looks fine, but then I do not buy $2k jackets.

Some variation is to be expected, and some folks will pay extra for it.

 

[blobsterroll]

People will happily drop over $2K on a jacket by Fine Creek, maker which deliberately uses mismatched panels

Did not know that, so the Double Helix that I have is.... ok? To me if thats just the way it is, and that it makes my jacket "better" then I am down, it is a great jacket overall and as long as the structural integrity is not violated like what our good friend Yango up there mentioned then I am all good.

And what am I looking at there? Just the hides?

(I remember you btw, you helped me out before and seem to have a lot of knowledge on leather, you changed your avatar.)

 

[Monitor]

Did not know that, so the Double Helix that I have is.... ok? To me if thats just the way it is, and that it makes my jacket "better" then I am down, it is a great jacket overall and as long as the structural integrity is not violated like what our good friend Yango up there mentioned then I am all good.

It's perfectly fine. It's more than fine. I would have not even registered the sides as being different.

Here is an example of a jacket that costs nearly two thousand dollars used right now.

And what am I looking at there? Just the hides?

Just an example of how a single panel will have a gradation that doesn't simply range from grainy to smooth hide but from near suede to greasy, stained, oily surface - And people love it!

The video you have posted... Schott works with what is known as corrected leather. Leather that's been stretched, hot-pressed, sanded where needed, etc. to achieve such uniformness. There is nothing wrong with it, most people see this kind of leather as superior but I personally vastly prefer full-grain leather which due to its unaltered natural appearance will always display such chaotic variations.

I love leather exactly for what it is.

 

[blobsterroll]

Just an example of how a single panel will have a gradation that doesn't simply range from grainy to smooth hide but from near suede to greasy, stained, oily surface

Ahhh ok, thank you! That actually explains this sleeve. So this is one panel, but it goes from smooth to grainy.

No issues here, just me being paranoid because I saved up for this jacket (d'oh!) I dont spend money on much really. I guess just my motorcycle and the jacket. Maybe boots.

Edit: Also, that Fine Creek jacket comes like that? Pre-aged? While I miss the Schott's "quality" in American terms, I dont think it can hold a candle to what this jacket will look in a year or two.

 

[Yango]

“…To me if thats just the way it is, and that it makes my jacket "better" then I am down, it is a great jacket overall and as long as the structural integrity is not violated like what our good friend Yango up there mentioned then I am all good…”

I’m just relating my personal experience after 22 years of regular wear.

I don’t have 20 different jackets that are sparingly worn in rotation. This jacket was worn on a daily basis, and despite the leather being uniform thickness, the wrinkled soft leather did not hold up on the sleeve.

Of course, everyone will have different opinions, which is absolutely fine. It makes life interesting.

If the jacket works for you, then that’s great!

 

[Canuck Panda]

The mismatched grains don't bother me. But for $2k there are many other choices. Unless this Double Helix jacket has a perfect fit, I would look elsewhere with that cash.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Ahhh ok, thank you! That actually explains this sleeve. So this is one panel, but it goes from smooth to grainy.

No issues here, just me being paranoid because I saved up for this jacket (d'oh!) I dont spend money on much really. I guess just my motorcycle and the jacket. Maybe boots.

Edit: Also, that Fine Creek jacket comes like that? Pre-aged? While I miss the Schott's "quality" in American terms, I dont think it can hold a candle to what this jacket will look in a year or two.

Just to clarify, I think it looks great!

I agree that's a lot of "D'oh" to spend on any jacket, and boots these days are not far behind that number. But to get something that you were not expecteing, well, that isn't always fun is it? Not to mention that the seller does not offer returns. If you decide you don't like it can you exchange it?

Perhaps post some fit photos of it, often times jackets look much nicer on & worn that just laying flat on a table. Either way, this jacket should be fine, or much better than that and I do indeed hope you really like it! Wear it on your bike and enjoy it...

 

[mpovlin]

I bought a Flat Head Delraiser last year and off the rack both sleeves were perfectly smooth. Only a few wears leater the difference between the left and the right sleeves are significantly more pronounced than your panel on the back of the sleeve. I have to admit it does bother me but I love the jacket and the leather is a dream otherwise.I bought a Flat Head Delraiser last year and off the rack both sleeves were perfectly smooth. Only a few wears leater the difference between the left and the right sleeves are significantly more pronounced than your panel on the back of the sleeve. I have to admit it does bother me but I love the jacket and the leather is a dream otherwise.

 

[TREEMAN]

Some mismatched I like and some I don't......It depends on the jacket. Some leather jacket makers know how put together a mismatched jacket better than others. Some makers go a bit too far and it looks more mixed-up than anything else.

 

[ES335]

You might end up with the same 'issue'. Here's some pics of one of my shinki jackets. When new and after three years of regular wear. Note the third sleeve panel (under the pits).

If you want a jacket with perfectly smooth panels, you might not want to buy leather.

View attachment 439170 View attachment 439168 View attachment 439169

Thats gorgeous!

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Gotcha. I just saw that Fjorde in YouTube says that Shinki may age slower and stay looking brand new than say, Horween.

We don't have a lot of case studies regarding Nita tannery (Double Helix) though

That's one person you should NEVER listen to in regard to leather jackets.

I don't see this as much of an issue. What really matters is if the pattern is any good and if it fits you well.