Understated Flight/Bomber Jackets

[bbcworld]

Hello everyone!

I'm looking for a understated black flight/bomber jacket for motorcycling.

I'm not interested in having the shortest one possible because that was US fashion in the 40s or having something original.

I was given a new brilliant dark brown flight/bomber jacket as a gift from the US, it has two traditional deep pockets at the front, with side ones as well, not much going on at the back (like on A2 jackets), no fur collar and no ribbing around the waist and cuffs (the waist is elasticated and ribbed within the leather, cuff is buttoned).

The great thing about my dark brown jacket (apart from fitting me perfectly) is its the pefect length (I'm about 5'10" chest 40-42) and it comes down over the top half of my arse (to put it bluntly) which is exactly what I'm looking for, it is also discreet and elegant.

Ok to the point. My brown one with only a Europe map for lining is too thin and cold to be used in the winter and for motorbiking, and I can't find the manufacturer online (don't have the jacket with me at the moment to tell you). So I'm on the hunt for one in black that will fit my requirements.

I went to see a Schott jacket today (in Brussels where I am at the moment) the 184SM A2 Cowhide Leather Flight jacket, it's a 4 way jacket so perfect for my needs both winter and summer, and has a removable collar and removable liner.

I was a little disappointed when I tried both sizes 40 and 42, not that the jacket wasn't lovely but that it fitted me so badly. For starters it was one of these really high up short jackets I was talking about before, so the ribbing on the hem ended where my belt started and far above my arse showing my shirt. The other thing I didn't like about it was it seemed quite flamboyant with metal shiny Schott buttons everywhere, not discreet or elegant at all.

I'm too afraid to fork out £200-500 ordering a flight/bomber jacket online from the US without any recommendations.

Sorry for the long post. Can anyone give me some suggestions/recommendations given what I've described above? So Here's a summary, (you can use the photo above as a basic example of what I'm looking for):

-Black, no antiquing
-I like a looser fit, not a tight jacket.
-Preferrably Thick leather (for motorcycling)
-No fur collar (although a removable one welcome)
-Removable liner for winter
-Can have a ribbed waist and cuff (although not important)
-No above the belly button short jackets!

 

[nicholasb]

How about looking at Aero http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=46 You could ask for a removable liner and have the sizing tailored to your requirements. You could always look at a longer style too. These are pretty popular for a lasting jacket.

This http://www.popsleather.com/prod_v2.php3?prod=75 has a liner option. Don't think the leather would be as thick, but it is in budget.

 

[Dav]

Perhaps a Aero halfbelt might fit the bill, seems to tick most of the boxes.

 

[apba1166]

perhaps this, or one of their others... http://tinyurl.com/6lg2emj
removable lining and perf vest. waist as in your other jacket, also goes below belt. the only geegaw you might not like is the zip sleeves, but again even that's understated and an asset on bike. thick leather but supple.

 

[Daniel Hunter]

http://www.gibson-barnes.com/Leather+Jackets/id/18/cat_id/18/

 

[Fletch]

Ok to the point. My brown one with only a Europe map for lining is too thin and cold to be used in the winter and for motorbiking, and I can't find the manufacturer online (don't have the jacket with me at the moment to tell you).

Plus it's brown. There are various "rules" about brown leather. One says don't wear it on the bike unless you're packing heat. There's also a story about a particularly icky club ritual.

 

[Edward]

I would support the suggestion for looking into Aero. You will have the same problem of not having much chance to try one on, though for a couple of models, you could go to the Ace Cafe. The jackets they have in that line, three different models are based on the Aero Cafe Racer and (if memory serves) the fifties half belt. Would give you some idea of fit. If you are looking for a looser fit than those, I'd think about the Highywayman - a very late Fifties / early Sixties, boxy design. I'm sure Aero could accommodate with something in a black leather that wont age too much and will maintain the straight black look you want. Might be worth looking into a Bootlegger too - great design as they have just that little echo of the Perfecto, traditional Brando style, but much more understated. Also that little bit longer. FWIW, I'd trust Aero's FQHH or Heavy Steer on a bike, but not one of the Schotts you posted. Nice jackets, but lacking in protectiveness IMO. Of course, they're not really designed for use on a bike, so.

 

[bbcworld]

I think I may have to go to the US in the winter and do a load of shopping, simply can't do it at the moment and also its coming up to spring.

Some lovely jackets everyone's showed me, I'm afraid the Gibson Barnes jackets are pretty much all brown.

The other jackets are also nice but please note I'm looking for a flight/bomber jacket so a more traditional flight jacket look would be nice. Doesn't have to be perfect you know what I mean. Although I may consider a more traditional bike jacket (thanks Edward).

Thanks for the pointers, keep them coming!

May check out the Ace Cafe Aero Rocker when I get a chance.

 

[Daniel Hunter]

Actually most of the Gibson and Barnes jackets can be had in black.

 

[garzo]

Hey BBC,
check out Fox Creek -- they specialize in motorcycle jackets and I can testify to their quality -- tough, thick leather, some jackets come with inside armor pockets.
Most have zip ventilation. They also have a leather jeans-style jacket, of which I have one -- very nice. The leather jeans jacket does not have zip ventilation nor armor pockets, but still highly recommended.

http://www.foxcreekleather.com/mens_mensjackets

 

[captaincaveman1]

I've found the rather blousy and short cut of bomber jackets don't work well on a bike. Also I'd be concerned about the knitted cuffs and waist band coming up in a slide and exposing skin. And, I don't know of any bomber style ones that have integrated armor and good venting built in.

But if you insist... you can give LL Bean a try. For years they've made A-2 and G-1 style jackets out of tough goatskin. Easily found for under 100 bux used on ebay too.

Given the choice, I think the G-1 is better suited due to the more fitted cut and bi-swing. Hey Tom wore one in Top Gun so it can't be that bad. haha.

 

[captaincaveman1]

Also that little bit longer. FWIW, I'd trust Aero's FQHH or Heavy Steer on a bike, but not one of the Schotts you posted. Nice jackets, but lacking in protectiveness IMO. Of course, they're not really designed for use on a bike, so.

Where garments tend to fail in a slide is at their seams. Even decent quality racing leathers are not as thick as Aero's FQHH. The key difference is in the stitching and the fact that they can accomodate impact absorbing armor. Thicker does not automatically equal better, altho given the choice I'd prefer thicker leather just for the extra margin of safety.

For bike riding, as far as safety goes... a dedicated leather biker jacket w/ good quality armor is superior to both the Schott and Aero.

 

[Graemsay]

The Belstaff Pure Motorcycle collection contains a number of retro-styled jackets that are designed for riding bikes, and most (if not all) are armoured.

I like the (unarmoured) Ariel.

Belstaff also make the Mojave. If you buy one, make sure you get the bike version, as the fashion one is lighter, arguably of poorer quality, and more expensive to boot.

But if you're sensible, I reckon the thing to do would be to give Scott Leathers a call. They sell a version of the Mojave, though it's not on the website, but get them to put one together using CE rated stitching, leathers and armour. If you're feeling adventurous, get them to match it up to a pair of trousers so that it's a two piece.

It'll be cheaper than the Belstaff, probably better made, and offer better protection in an off.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I don't think the Belstaffs fit this man's criteria - the first one isn't a bomber jacket and the bottom one fits very high.

Try G&B (get them to send thier catalogue to you) and remember they do them in black if asked. Speak with Dave marshall.

 

[Norsksea]

I bought a 44 long Raider jacket from Gibson and Barnes and had to send it back because their jackets run large. I got a 42 long in exchange with fit me OK, it has room in it for a sweater. I could have gotten away with a 40 long for a trimmer fit but I did not want another shipping charge.
It looks like you have the opposite problem buy from to US where I am buying a Jacket from the UK. I have to get it right the first time to avoid a 100 pound UPS shipping charge.
Frank

 

[Graemsay]

I'd agree, Seb, only I reckoned that the Belstaffs were worth highlighting as an alternative to the traditional biker jacket, which the OP seemed keen to avoid.

So rather than being a suggestion, think of them as another option.

 

[bbcworld]

I'm more of a classic biker than an all leather fluorescent disaster on an over powered bike.

I have a classic international motorcycle jacket, one of the older Nato issue barbour ones (so no stupid label), it also has no protection or armour, armour is not a prerequisite for me.

When I get home I'll show you a photo of the jacket I got from the US, maybe you guys will get more of an idea of what I'm looking for, it's a flight/bomber jacket for sure and to the untrained eye may even look like it's from the 40s/50s but it isn't actually a traditional jacket.

I want to stay away from other designs, I've been through all of them its really a decent bomber I'm after.

Top Gun one would be ok, but again must over the top half of the arse and none of the badges plastered everywhere.

I don't think the Belstaffs fit this man's criteria - the first one isn't a bomber jacket and the bottom one fits very high.

Try G&B (get them to send thier catalogue to you) and remember they do them in black if asked. Speak with Dave marshall.

Correct, ok I'll do this.

Thanks again for the help everyone.

 

[garzo]

You could always try a Schott 184SM in Long, which adds I believe two inches to the overall length.

 

[bbcworld]

Having being re-united with my jacket, I can now reveal the maker of the jacket I received from the US.

It is made by a remarkably cheap producer called "Burks Bay", they are not %100 tradional or accurate but from the quality would have thought they were a little more expensive!

I think I'm going to go with one of their jackets again.

Thanks again everyone.

 

[Edward]

Where garments tend to fail in a slide is at their seams. Even decent quality racing leathers are not as thick as Aero's FQHH. The key difference is in the stitching and the fact that they can accomodate impact absorbing armor. Thicker does not automatically equal better, altho given the choice I'd prefer thicker leather just for the extra margin of safety.

For bike riding, as far as safety goes... a dedicated leather biker jacket w/ good quality armor is superior to both the Schott and Aero.

Oh, certainly, yes. It seems that here, as in so many other cases, it's a trade off between safety and style... A dedicated, modern armoured jacket will always be superior. That said, if I was going to run a bike it would be something classic-style, low powered - ideally a Royal Enfield Bullet 350cc. On a little bike like that I would be prepared to take the risk involved in wearing, say, an Aero Buco copy, whereas on a high-powered, modern Japanese racing bike I might want something more protective. Horses for courses and all that.

I'm more of a classic biker than an all leather fluorescent disaster on an over powered bike.

I have a classic international motorcycle jacket, one of the older Nato issue barbour ones (so no stupid label), it also has no protection or armour, armour is not a prerequisite for me.

I'd be interested to see photos of the NATO jacket... what colour were they? I have a modern Barbour International, though mine is the Trials model so it looks very much like the one in the picture save for a slightly slimmer silhouette (which doesn't take a Winter lining), double ended zip, and the studs are 'blacked' on the surface. I dithered over removing the label. In the end, I kept it on because I'm very happy with a Barbour and it felt like I would be turning it into a wannabe Belstaff if I did that. I do think they would look better with a duller logo patch (say black instead of yellow lettering), but in these logo-driven days, that's unlikely to change. Doesn't really bother me that much anyhow, but I do understand how it might others.

Be interested to see the jacket you're looking at now. I wonder whether the Eastman Air Comfort might be an option for you?

You'd have to speak to Eastman about the length, though I think this being based on a civilian design would be a touch lower in the hem than the A2. Yu might also have to ask thm if the'd do it in black. The Aero Happy Days might be another option, too - they'll definitely do that in black FQHH, and Aero being Aero having it made long enough for what you want won't be a problem.

Still, if you can find what you want that much cheaper, so much the better in these days! Look forward to seeing photos.