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Unbranded Brand 21 Oz skinny-fit jeans (pic heavy)

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,427
Location
Glasgow
Picked up a pair of Unbranded Brand's 21oz jeans while I was over in Chicago - got them from Mild Blend, which sells a Fedora Lounge wish list of brands and if I'd had more time would have happily emptied my bank account into their till. They're friendly, knowledge and patient, and I recommend them highly!

Anyway, UB's selling point is that their product is stripped-down, uncomplicated and they hand on the savings to the customer. At $109 after tax, they come in at around, or slightly under, Gustin money. Given that the latter's heaviest denim is 18oz, it was a no-brainer to pick these up.

Out of the box, the first impression was how damn stiff they were - not quite, stand-up-by-themselves rigid, but they folded like heavily-starched sail cloth. The thick fabric has a pronounced and relatively even weave - not very slub-like at all - with a thin blue selvedge, while the colour is a deep saturated blue which comes off on the hands when you rub it.

First wear was pretty uncomfortable to say the least. I actually thought I'd made a mistake, they were just so stiff as to make me want to take them off - the creases at the back of the knees and the seams chafed like hell, and let's not talk about doing up the buttons! My other half was laughing her head off as I wrestled the damn things on. I should add that, with a couple of days' wear, they're already easing up a bit - at least the knee creases have stopped biting - and I think these things will develop some nice fades over time.

The cut's relatively low, I've posted a comparison pic with my Gustin slim-fits - they're both 29" waists, so it's like-for-like. I think they're pretty close in terms of fit, though the UBs are slightly more tapered while the Gustin are much more up-and-down. Both suit me fine, but if you're a bit fuller in figure the UBs might be a bit more flattering. That said, Gustin's hardware and little details like the coloured stitching and half-lined pockets give them a bit more 'value plus-plus' overall.

Mildblend hemmed my UBs for nothing - they come with a 36" leg, which was too much for me to cuff - giving the new hem a slight drop at the back to allow for wrinkling. They also hemmed my Freddies, something I'd wanted for a while, for a nominal charge. Done on an old sewing machine in the shop window (seriously!) they were a nice job, so here's a wee plug for them: https://www.mildblend.com/

Anyhoo, here's the pics:









 
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Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
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8,427
Location
Glasgow
No, I'm usually 30", but I found the 30" way too big, so I dropped to 29" and it was just right. I know Gustin say you should drop a size to allow for stretch, but I've found them fine straight out of the box, so it could be that what I've been looking for companies to make 29" all along. [huh]
 

andy b.

One of the Regulars
Messages
191
Location
PA, USA
How much will these shrink when they get washed at some point? I have been looking for a pair of heavy denim jeans but no place in my area has any to try on, so I'd have to order online. I have no idea how these would fit or shrink, and I have been burned by the shrinking of jeans in the past.

I guess another problem is that stated jean waist sizes seem to be about as consistent as leather jacket sizes. The size on the tag half the time means nothing. So if I may be so bold, what would your waist measurement be when standing there taken in just your skivvies? No need to post a photo of that, of course. lol

Andy B.
 

wdw

One Too Many
Messages
1,260
Location
Edinburgh
Interesting, and it's definitely a good price. I'd like to see jeans that heavy in person before buying, but places seem to be few and far between.
 

reeks1

One of the Regulars
Messages
139
Location
New Jersey
How much will these shrink when they get washed at some point? I have been looking for a pair of heavy denim jeans but no place in my area has any to try on, so I'd have to order online. I have no idea how these would fit or shrink, and I have been burned by the shrinking of jeans in the past.

I guess another problem is that stated jean waist sizes seem to be about as consistent as leather jacket sizes. The size on the tag half the time means nothing. So if I may be so bold, what would your waist measurement be when standing there taken in just your skivvies? No need to post a photo of that, of course. lol

Andy B.

Wash? Hah! You're not SUPPOSED to wash selvedge denim like, ever. lol. Seriously, though. You're really shouldn't wash them. Toss them in the freezer when they get funky. Then wear 'em some more.
 

reeks1

One of the Regulars
Messages
139
Location
New Jersey
No, I'm usually 30", but I found the 30" way too big, so I dropped to 29" and it was just right. I know Gustin say you should drop a size to allow for stretch, but I've found them fine straight out of the box, so it could be that what I've been looking for companies to make 29" all along. [huh]

I've been looking at the UB's for a while. I'm a 30 in every brand on the planet, but you'd suggest dropping to a 29, eh? I assume they offer easy returns free shipping, etc.?
 

andy b.

One of the Regulars
Messages
191
Location
PA, USA
I get the "not washing" thing. And I bet I have some pairs of pants that have gone years without washing. But at some point my jeans start getting enough wear on them that they get sent to the "work jeans" pile. Once they get covered in grease and mud, I have to break down and wash them, and then it becomes more frequent.
Am I going to have to wear these things for 5 years without washing and then just get rid of them? :D
 

reeks1

One of the Regulars
Messages
139
Location
New Jersey
I get the "not washing" thing. And I bet I have some pairs of pants that have gone years without washing. But at some point my jeans start getting enough wear on them that they get sent to the "work jeans" pile. Once they get covered in grease and mud, I have to break down and wash them, and then it becomes more frequent.
Am I going to have to wear these things for 5 years without washing and then just get rid of them? :D

Hah! Well, at $100/pair, I'd say that's not too bad a deal to wear for 5 then ditch 'em. :)
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,427
Location
Glasgow
@ Andy b: I'm just under 30"(this is self-measured, so allow for a little margin of error), if that helps. They are sanforized, so I'm not expect much shrinkage, though I've had them hemmed to allow for this and I doubt I'll wash these for a six months or so (which should be an interesting experiment for me).
@ Reeks: Here's the website: http://theunbrandedbrand.com/ It's got a nice page of fades. I bought them in an US shop - which was a first, as you just don't get this stuff in Scotland - but I do know they ship around the world and accept unworn returns.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,111
Location
London, UK
In my experience, it's a very US thing to offer odd sizes like that (odd in the sense of odd numbers, not odd people ;) ) - unusual (in the UK at least) to see things in anything other than a 32/34/36 et cetera waist (though I've seen more inside leg measurements at 31/33 in recent years as compared to the old 32/34 and so on.

These look like high quality stuff for the price. I'm very tempted by the idea of a pair as heavy as 21oz (I'd love to find suit cloth that heavy!), though I've yet to see them at a price I'm willing to pay over here. Worth keeping an eye on should they get into the high waist / wide leg end of things...
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
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8,427
Location
Glasgow
I certainly felt that they represented excellent value for money - I'm not one for splurging loads on denim, so these represented a bargain for something I've been after for while. I'm just glad I didn't get the 28 oz 8Gs I was considering buying earlier this year. I've found my denim weight limit!
Incidentally, I saw quite a few denims in Mildblend that were similar to the ones Gustin are offering: the Jade is really nice and a little bit different, so I'll be up for a pair of those at some point.
 

reeks1

One of the Regulars
Messages
139
Location
New Jersey
Sloan,
I've been on their site and the jeans look great.

BTW: have you tried the APC "New Standard". About $175 and very heavy, rigid, etc. No idea what the weight of the denim is, but it's the heaviest I've purchased.
They break in very, very nicely. I have two pair that I've been aging for a few years and they look great now. The fit is somewhere between classic and skinny, with a fairly low waist.
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,427
Location
Glasgow
They sound interesting, though I think I'm going to have my work cut out for the foreseeable future with these things. At just 14oz, the Gustin Okayamas that are heading my way will be a blessed relief. :D
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
Craig, those look great. Dying for some 21+ myself.
My Heavy Americans feel "normal" like so I can't waif for the Super Heavies later December.
If I pickup some of my green selvedge Lucky's, I can feel the difference, but I really want the painful stuff :)
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,427
Location
Glasgow
Butte, I'd try the 21oz first, then go from there - I can't imagine what Naked and Famous 32oz is like! Has to be said, the UBs are perfect winter wear as they keep out the elements- wish I'd bought them at the start of my Chicago trip!:D
I think for anyone in the States looking to dip their toe into heavy denim, they offer a stone cold bargain. And you never know: some of the really expensive brands out there may have to re-examine their pricing because Gustin and UB are setting the pace in terms of good quality, affordable selvedge.
 

andy b.

One of the Regulars
Messages
191
Location
PA, USA
Well thanks to you Sloan, a pair of 21oz Unbranded jeans are on their way to me. I'll report back what I think of them.

Andy B.
 

Grayland

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,101
Location
Upstate NY
I bought a pair of the 21 oz. UB's about 6 months ago from Blue Owl Workshop. Although they offer free chain-stitching, they weren't hemming the 21 oz version as they claimed it was busting their needles.
 

GriffDeLaGriff

One Too Many
Messages
1,203
Location
Sweden
Comfort really depends on the fabric and how its treated.

My IronHeart 21oz is way more comfortable then my Gustin 14oz indigo/indigo.

The IH were supersoft from the start, almost incredible comfortable right out of the box. They have now developed nice fades btw and are my favourite pair, i really try and wear them less often so they dont get destroyed. When sitting in theese right now I feel I could easily go 30oz no problem.

The Gustins however are super stiff, they are like *flopp* when taking off. They are also comfy, but in a different way, they are soft on the inside and they give kind of a support in a way, but they are stiff as a dead cat in the moonless frost night.

However, I suspect the gustins are just starched and that will go away after 5 washes or so and then they might be soft, but I think its also what cotton is used and how tight its woven, not only how thick it is.
 

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