Ultimate Leather Conditioner Comparison (on Reddit)

[JMax]

obenauf's oil is also slow in absorbing, it takes weeks to get the full effect of treatment I did to it, so it is very easy to get impatient and over treat, i think 90% of "how to leather conditioning" tutorial on the internet are over did it especially on new leather. since usually they only wait several hours or next morning to give a second coat to finish up the video.

Same for Doc Jackson. Not quite as long. Few days at least, up to a week.

 

[TREEMAN]

Pecards is # 1 ….

 

[handymike]

Tenderly Update 1 Week
I think the Tenderly is doing something good on the deerskin jacket. The flaking parts have settled down and the waxy coating it produces is creating a bond to hold the surface together. I actually feel that I could potentially wear this jacket after another coating...I had relegated it to the closet out of fear it would disintegrate if worn.
Before:

After:

Both (before is on left)


on the steerhide, the Tenderly has darkened the finish- made it blacker just like the Urad, but I still prefer the satin/ waxy finish to the glossy/ varnish finish the Urad left. After 1 week and only 1 coating, the flaking on the steerhide is minimized and it is still more flexible than without treatment.

 

[handymike]

Next up- Skidmore’s

The tub just arrived, and after putting it on the cuff of the deerskin jacket my impression is...it’s oil. My hands smell like linseed oil, and the hide looks like it’s been oiled. More to come...

 

[Ernest P Shackleton]

Hair dryer. Hair dryer. Hair dryer. If I was away from electricity, I can see hanging something in the sun or in a garbage bag in the sun. But yeah, if you're conditioning or proofing leather, a hair dryer is key.

 

[JurassicUtility]

It not bad. I have seen much worst. My friend and I came out with a plan to restore this jacket.
After the removal of the patches, chain and main zip, the inside lining was review. Tag and fabric are in EXCELLENT condition Not a single tear on the jacket. However, somehow there is discoloration on two side only. Maybe they used a different color fabric? I have 3 j24 and one j21 They tend to turn reddish? When fading takes place.
This is what we done so far.
1. Dry-clean with two different big shoe shine horse hairbrushes.
2. Dry-clean ox-hair 2" paint brushes to get in to all the hard to reach area.
3. Very “foamy” quick clean and dry of saddle soap one panel at a time.
4. Heavy glycerin conditioning.
5. Leather conditioning the George's way. (Hang in a sealed trash bag in the Hot attic for two days) using a conditioner similar to

In two or three days later, I plan to do the following:

By hand, I will reinstall zipper with period correct NOS Talon #5. Also, this jacket is a big 40. He is more like a 38? I will also be fabricating a collar. I got my hand on some 60s DOT snaps. No United brand, but they do look like the originals.

Lastly, The jacket is a horsehide.

https://vcleat.com/glycerin-leather-conditioning/

Shoutout to @photo2u for sharing some interesting advice regarding restoration of old, dried out leather using glycerin. I learned about the same technique from the above link, and have used it successfully on a vintage pair of shell cordovan shoes. Unfortunately for me, the finish on the shoes was a water soluble aniline dye and I sort of messed up the finish, so be careful. This is different from traditional conditioning methods, because I believe the main mechanism by which flexibility is being restored is the glycerin seeping in and sequestering water.

 

[handymike]

Tenderly Update- 2 weeks

Unfortunately, it seems @ton312 was correct in his assessment of Tenderly. After 2 weeks, the hide on the deerskin jacket feels dry again and the waxy finish doesn’t seem to be holding the flakiness together as well as it did last week. The wax look and feel of the top-coat is still there, but the surface is no longer as smooth as it was. This is disappointing.
On the steerhide the same thing is happening. The jacket feels stiff again, the flaky parts are rough again, but the jacket retains a waxy sheen.

My thoughts on the two Urad products I’ve tried are that they provide a possibly weather protective top-coat to your leather product (either glossy or satin- depending on which one you use), but they don’t do much if anything to heal or soften the hide itself.

 

[JMax]

Jackson’s Cream. Not the rejuvenator. Da cream. About a week after application, the jackets soak it all in and they are softer. They look and feel nourished. Not quite sure how else to describe it. Then rejuvenate.

 

[handymike]

Skidmore’s update- 1 week

it’s been almost a week since I put Skidmores on one arm of the deerskin jacket. I have to say that I’m surprised at the results. The deerskin has regained some of its sponginess! This is a welcome result! We’ll see if it lasts.

I am also experimenting with the heat-method. I slathered Skidmore’s on an old dried out belt (both sides), sealed it in a zip-lock bag, and left it out in the 95+ degree sunshine. In a few days, I’ll follow up with observations.

 

[alish]

Tenderly Update- 2 weeks

Unfortunately, it seems @ton312 was correct in his assessment of Tenderly. After 2 weeks, the hide on the deerskin jacket feels dry again and the waxy finish doesn’t seem to be holding the flakiness together as well as it did last week. The wax look and feel of the top-coat is still there, but the surface is no longer as smooth as it was. This is disappointing.
On the steerhide the same thing is happening. The jacket feels stiff again, the flaky parts are rough again, but the jacket retains a waxy sheen.

My thoughts on the two Urad products I’ve tried are that they provide a possibly weather protective top-coat to your leather product (either glossy or satin- depending on which one you use), but they don’t do much if anything to heal or soften the hide itself.

If the flaking is just superficial, you might be able to gently remove the worst of it. I did this on my 30s HH by getting these areas damp and then very gently rubbing with a little piece of wool cloth, and then with just the pad of my index finger in a small, circular motion. The cloth didn't do much, although it may have helped to lift some of the flaking. Rubbing with my finger was the key to actually removing these surface flakes. I don't know, the Urad might make this more difficult as it sounds like the leather may not take up water as easily. Getting the leather damp, and thus weakening the fibers holding the flakes in place was the thinking I was going with. Although dry and brittle might work as well, especially with an abrasive cloth / gentle scrubby.

Hopefully Skidmore's or Jackson's will penetrate the Tenderly topcoat so you can rehydrate the leather without having to strip the Tenderly off. EDIT: Just saw your Skidmore's update!! I guess we were posting at the same time

Good luck!! Keep us posted!!

 

[Chevalier]

obenauf's oil is also slow in absorbing, it takes weeks to get the full effect of treatment I did to it, so it is very easy to get impatient

Obenauf’s oil is the only thing I have had success with (other than lots of time hanging in the sun and fresh air) to reduce a musty or old smell in a vintage jacket. It has a pleasant scent that seems to stick around in the leather. Don’t expect miracles, though. In my experience, it did not cover up heavy cigarette smoke smells or mold smell when mold is still growing under the liner. It is also only the oil with the strong scent. The Heavy Duty LP does not have the same scent.

 

[Chevalier]

I found a pretty good article (semi-technical) on tanning from the EPA.
https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2020-10/documents/c9s15.pdf
It has a pretty good description of the process. I understand better what people mean when they say fat-liquoring. It also seems like effective conditioning requires some diagnosis first. Is it more fat that the leather needs inside, or more wax on the surface to supplement the top coat? Maybe some of these products that “rehydrate” leather only have a temporary effect because the water added just evaporates back out again (assuming the leather is properly tanned)? Has anyone had any luck using a new top coat (like leather workers use) to repair cracking leather?

 

[handymike]

Jackson’s Cream. Not the rejuvenator. Da cream. About a week after application, the jackets soak it all in and they are softer. They look and feel nourished. Not quite sure how else to describe it. Then rejuvenate.

This might be next.

 

[Yamahana]

Jackson’s Cream. Not the rejuvenator. Da cream. About a week after application, the jackets soak it all in and they are softer. They look and feel nourished. Not quite sure how else to describe it. Then rejuvenate.

Which one of these?

 

[JMax]

^^both. Here are the tubs I have (ran out of rejuvenator after about 4 years).

 

[navetsea]

Obenauf’s oil is the only thing I have had success with (other than lots of time hanging in the sun and fresh air) to reduce a musty or old smell in a vintage jacket. It has a pleasant scent that seems to stick around in the leather. Don’t expect miracles, though. In my experience, it did not cover up heavy cigarette smoke smells or mold smell when mold is still growing under the liner. It is also only the oil with the strong scent. The Heavy Duty LP does not have the same scent.

Yes i like the fresh scent whiff from it, its not overpowering, but it smell sweet and fresh and leather feel juicy like a young skin.

 

[handymike]

Skidmore's Update- heat treatment (2 days)

I’m going to advise against putting your leather item coated in Skidmore’s out in the sun while in a plastic bag!

My belt has basically turned into jerky. The color which was brown with hints of red is now black, and there are dark stains on the underside which have become brittle and crack when flexed.





The jackets I’ve coated are still safe and in a ventilated closet. I will update on their progress next week.

 

[TREEMAN]

Thanks HM for taking the time…..

 

[handymike]

No problem .
There is so much hoopla around these products, that I really want to cut through the baloney to get to what really works, and on what. Plus it’s fun, kind of like America’s Test Kitchen.

 

[photo2u]

This is a recipe I use. I think is the same as skidmores. The difference is skidmores whips the ingredient together to create a more "creamy" product at the end.
This is my recipe that has worked for me in the past. Please use your own judgement if you decide to duplicate.

Linseed Oil 4oz
100% Natural Pure Gum Spirits of Turpentine 4oz
1LB Raw Yellow Beeswax
I also use coconut oil when ever it is needed. The oil sometimes turns the leather darker. So Please be aware.
As extra when needed more (surface) only softening conditioner I use Organic Shea Butter.
How to make recipe: Very simple. Use a double boiler with enough water in the bottom pot and place all ingredient inside the top pot. heat up, and mix and bring to rest. This procedure will take about 5-10 minutes of total heating time. When the mix cools down the ingredients will solidified. I scrape the ingredients and use a food plastic container to keep my leather conditioning balm.

If no double boiler is not available, use a big pot of water and place a metal bow or another smaller pot inside the bigger pot. Make sure water does not go in to the mix. This is not a fancy Fresh culinary dish.

Check links for more information:
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/blog/2406/what-is-a-double-boiler.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082BLNB38/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A3QLO919WWTU4M&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CGLQR9Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=AWJB080M6AZ3W&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SRSSU8G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=APE3DAGGRF2C1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186TDM1U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AVQDBMRIHUZ4S&psc=1