Two or Three Button

[DOUGLAS]

Thank you for the comments gents. I do appreciate the extra eyes.
Orgetorix,The shoulder is not low nor is the leg. Unfortunately that is my body. My right arm is about 2" longer than my left and my left leg is shorter and,add in some arthritis and poor posture and this is what you end up with. As I said I brought the jacket and single breasted vest back for corrections. Patch pockets should add a bit of distraction and more waist suppression as well.

I had no pre-conceived image on how the suit would look like once finished.I saw some great examples posted here and projecting those on mybase idea. I asked for details and didn't really focus on the whole. My ignorance is the result. I am not entirely unpleased. With some tweeking it will be fine for me.
I like the color as it will go with just about any other suit or sport coat I have.
I think as far as construction, I think he did well. Again this is my perseption.My next try will be of heavier fabric and less of a learning experience. Hopefully.

 

[Orgetorix]

Douglas, I've circled in red the issues I was pointing out in my previous post. Whether you have low shoulders and hips or uneven legs and arms, the point is that a custom suit should adjust for these issues and provide a clean, smooth, drape that is symmetrical on both sides of your body. Custom clothes should be made to fit your body--with all its unique characteristics.

It seems the left trouser leg is collapsing into your leg at the outside and pulling at the inside, which indicates a low hip or a short leg (different names for the same thing).

The wrinkling at the back and bottom of the right armhole, the crescent-shaped folds at the back waist area, and the way the jacket's standing away from your left hip are all indications of a right shoulder that's lower than the left.

If this were an off-the-rack suit, these issues would be unavoidable. But since this is a custom job, they ought to be corrected. I wouldn't let one of my customers out the door in a MTM suit with these issues and, IMO, you shouldn't accept this one until they are fixed.

 

[thunderw21]

The somewhat boxy front and the wide sleeve cuffs remind me of suits from the 1890s-1900s....

My thoughts exactly.

Douglas preaching the fire and brimstone?


I have to say, this has been (and promises to continue to be) an interesting process. I hope the suit makes you happy, Douglas, with whatever alterations might be made. Patch pockets will help the appearance.

Cheers!

 

[Tomasso]

This would bug me.

 

[DOUGLAS]

Douglas, I've circled in red the issues I was pointing out in my previous post.

If this were an off-the-rack suit, these issues would be unavoidable. But since this is a custom job, they ought to be corrected. I wouldn't let one of my customers out the door in a MTM suit with these issues and, IMO, you shouldn't accept this one until they are fixed.

Thanks very much Orgetorix for the education. The visual explains much more than words. I will show him this tomorrow.

Tomasso, It is already being addressed.

I am going to have the DB vest completely remade as I am not happy with it at all.

 

[Orgetorix]

^ My pleasure, Douglas. I hope it helps--I should have included the picture in the first place!

 

[DOUGLAS]

update

I am having the DB vest entirely remade as it does not work. It fits more like a shawl type vest which does not work with a belly like mine. So wider lapels and a higher gorge so it will be able to cross my chest a bit more gracefully. I am also having it made a bit longer. The patch pockets will have inverted pleats. Despite me not wanting this detail I think that it will ultimately look better and perhaps add some weight to the bottom of the jacket. The pleats hopefully will balance out the front and rear of the jacket as well.

 

[DOUGLAS]

It is almost done Gents. I should have it back by next Friday. I don't think this man will ever talk to me again.I know he is cursing me in multiple languages. I did worn him though in advance that I would torture him. The jacket is being taken in one more time and the sleeves tapered. It should be interesting.

 

[avedwards]

How many buttons for DB suits?

I know this thread refers to single breasted suits, but I'm just wondering which button layout was most common in the Golden Era on DB suits? I know 6 on 2 and 4 on 1 were most popular, but would 6 on 1 still have been worn? I'm asking because I managed to find a modern DB suit finally which fits perfectly and has nice big lapels making it look vintage, but it's 6 on 1 so I'm wondering if it can still pass of as something from the '40s.

 

[DOUGLAS]

I am the wrong person to ask about button placement on suits from the Thirties and Forties. It has taken me seven pages of posts just to figure out if I should get 2 or 3 buttons for a suit. I don't know jack about clothing. There are however many here who know a tremendous amount about clothing and its proper fit, shape, construction and button stance.
Sorry

 

[Marc Chevalier]

...would 6 on 1 still have been worn?

Yes, it existed, but was rare.


People today associate the 6 on 1 with the 1990s, rather than with the 1930s or '40s.



.

 

[Tomasso]

would 6 on 1 still have been worn?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Yep, that's a 6 on 1. (That is, there's no buttonhole for the center right button, and the buttons collectively form a "v" rather than a "y" pattern.) These became very common in the 1990s.

.

 

[carter]

I'm asking this from a position of ignorance regarding bespoke suits.

It appears to me that the issues pointed out by Orgetorix regarding the right shoulder of Douglas' suit are apparent in two pictures of the jacket on the mannequin. Would it not be comonplace for a tailor to address this during construction of the jacket? Would he point this out to the customer and make a suggestion before the jacket was this far along?

Perhaps a discussion and suggestions did occur. I'm just wondering.

 

[avedwards]

Yes, it existed, but was rare.


People today associate the 6 on 1 with the 1990s, rather than with the 1930s or '40s.



.

To make my suit more '40s could I take off the top two buttons to turn it into a 4 on 1 or would that ruin my suit?

 

[Feraud]

You can remove the buttons with no ill effects.

 

[avedwards]

Would you recommend doing so to make the suit more vintage looking or isn't it worth the bother?

 

[Feraud]

Removing buttons are easy.
The question of is it worth it to make the suit vintage looking probably depends on the rest of the suit. There are modern cut clothes that have a vintage feel. Others are just plain bad. You can assess the style of the suit and determine what looks best. Everyone has different levels of what they consider acceptable.


I am looking forward to seeing your suit alterations Douglas!
Following this thread has sparked my interest in a custom job.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Avedwards, continue training your eye and wait for the right suit to come along. Don't fiddle with buttons just yet.


Here's a modern one with a very vintage look to it, and it went for TWO DOLLARS: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160325328244


The same suit on its lucky new owner:

 

[DOUGLAS]

I am looking forward to seeing your suit alterations Douglas!
Following this thread has sparked my interest in a custom job.

My too Feraud. It seems like a life time since I started this suit. Think of it as a learning exercize. That is how I view at least. The suit will never be perfect in my mind since it is much different than I originally planned. It will be however completely usable and not so bad looking and I won't be entirely unhappy,perhaps just a bit disappointed in myself as well as the tailor.

This experiance has not turned me off from making another. I have a lot more information now although probobly not enough to make better decisions. If more people do this tailoring can only get better.