TWEEDFEST 2019 Part 1: A dozen lovely tweed jackets! Harris tweed, vintage, and more!

[tweedydon]

TWEEDFEST 2019!

(OK, so I listed a lot more than a dozen in this thread... The more the merrier! )

​

I'll be listing a whole slew of beautiful tweeds and other Fall jackets over the next few days, starting with at least a dozen today! They'll be in sizes from c.36 to c.54, and will include lots of Harris Tweeds, 3/2 sacks (both recent and vintage), an Orvis shooting jacket, a pre-1962 Abercrombie & Fitch cashmere jacket with patch pockets, English bespoke from the oldest family-owned firm in London, and more!

As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING IN THE USA; International inquiries are very welcome, with shipping at cost!

Also as always ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!

 

[tweedydon]

1) Orvis Half-Belt Tweed Shooting Jacket.



Tagged 44L. Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+3)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 32 1/4

Orvis are well-known for their classic, functional sporting clothing, and this jacket is a lovely example of their wares. Cut from a lovely mid-weight tweed in a mossy houndstooth pattern, this is a traditional shooting jacket.

featuring a half-belt back, this has a pleated bi-swing back for ease of movement in the field, especially when tracking quarry with your gun. It has a single center vent, a contemporary two button front, and three button cuffs; all of the buttons are leather-covered and metal-shanked, as is traditional. The jacket is half-canvassed and fully lined. It also features an ornamental throat latch and suede elbow patches on each sleeve.

This lovely jacket was Made in the USA and is in absolutely excellent condition. Ready to give you decades of wear, whether in the field shooting, tramping through the Maine woods, or walking the dogs on a weekend on Boston Common, this is a bargain at

just $39, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA. International inquiries welcome, with shipping at cost!

 

[tweedydon]

2) ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL! Camelhair Tweed Jacket, woven in Scotland!

c. 42, 44. Measurements:

Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1)
Shoulder: 19 3/8
Length: 32

In absolutely immaculate condition, this gorgeous camelhair jacket is cut from a beautifully soft barleycorn camelhair (woven in Scotland) with a lovely dark cream and light honey overcheck. This is a truly beautiful jacket!

It is cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts. It is fully canvassed and fully lined, and has a single center vent. All of its buttons are leather-covered and metal-shanked.

This was Union made in the USA by Guildhall Clothes for Ratcliff & Schwartz, the now-defunct traditional clothiers of Harrisurg, Pa..

This jacket is in immaculate condition; I suspect that it has never been worn! It does have a small weave fault on the front if you know where to look; this does NOT present as a flaw, but some of the honey-coloured cloth was woven slightly outside the stripe for an inch or so. Again, you're unlikely to see this unless you know just where to look--I've included pictures!

Asking just $49, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA. International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost.










3) BEAUTIFUL Nick Hilton of Princeton tweed jacket.

c. 38, 40L. Measurements:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 32 1/4

Union Made in the USA for Nick Hilton of Princeton--the successor to Norman Hilton--this lovely jacket is modeled after a traditional British hacking jacket, with a three button front and twin vents.

The tweed is lovely--beautiful soft wool in autumnal browns and mossy green in a classic houndstooth pattern.

The jacket is fully canvassed and fully lined, and apart from a very small mark on one lapel which blends with the tweed is in excellent condition.

Asking just $39, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

4) Vintage Harris Tweed jacket in charcoal herringbone with vertical stripes.

Made in Holland!

Tagged 40R. Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 17 1/8
Length: 29

Despite their less than Ivy name the Dutch company "Alexander's Wide World of Fashion" used to make some very nice, serviceable Harris tweed jackets--and this one is no exception!

Cut from a dark charcoal herringbone Harris tweed which features the classic Harris vertical striping in chestnut and blue, this is a contemporary two button jacket with single vent. It is fully lined, and has single button cuffs; the buttons are all leather-clad and metal-shanked and are developing some lovely patina.

The jacket could use a dry clean and a press to freshen it up, and so it is in Very Good condition, and a bargain at just $32, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost.








5) GORGEOUS London Bespoke Jacket made by L. G. Wilkinson, of 11, St George Street, London.

THE OLDEST FAMILY-OWNED BESPOKE TAILORS IN LONDON!
c. 42, 44. Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30

Founded in 1919, L.G. Wilkinson has occupied the same premises at 11, St George Street since 1924. It still operates today, as it the oldest family-owned bespoke tailoring business in London. Unlike many London tailors--including some on Savile Row--Wilkinson's cuts all of its cloth and makes all of its garments on the premises, in the traditional way, rather than measuring its customers and outsourcing the work to non-British tailoring companies. This does mean that Wilkinson's jackets are more expensive than many of their rivals'--but the fact that they continue to flourish shows that their clients appreciate the value of a truly British tailoring firm, and the continuance with tradition that it represents.

This jacket is a testament to the exceptionally high quality of the tailoring that you can expect from a true London bespoke tailor. Cut from a lovely sort wool cloth in traditional Glen Plaid in black and cream with crimson windowpane overchecking--this wonderful jacket is, of course, both fully canvassed and fully lined. Cut as a traditional British three button jacket with darting it features simply tons of handwork throughout--even the buttonholes are sewn by hand, and are, of course, all fully functional. It has a twin vent, and all of the buttons are a lovely dark natural horn.

As befits a bespoke garment this has plenty of attention to detail; the pocket flaps are lined with the same wool felting as the collar, for example, rather than with the same material as the lining. This jacket was completed on the 12th January, 1979--but given its utterly classic cut it could have been made last week.

This has some minor brown blemishes to the lower left sleeve, as shown, and could use a dry-clean to freshen it up. It is this in Good/Very Good condition, and so a bargain at just $25, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.... The buttons are worth this much alone!

 

[tweedydon]

6) Land Rover Gear Tweed Jacket

Tagged 41R. Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 30 1/2

Capitalizing on the current love of all things "heritage" Land Rover has collaborated with several clothing manufacturers to produce "Land Rover Gear"--a Land-Rover themed twist of classic clothing.

While most of these products were utterly forgettable, some stood out as Land Rover occasionally had the sense to collaborate with real clothing companies, rather than those that just placed logos on sweatshirts and fleeces. One of the most notable of these collaborations was that Land Rover had with Barbour.

While this isn't a Barbour x Land Rover tweed, it IS an extremely well-made and beautiful jacket, Made in Canada. True to its British heritage by way of Land Rover this is inspired by a traditional hacking jacket, with a three button front, darts, and a wonderful moss-green base with (extremely!) subtle overchecking in Royal Blue, cream, and chestnut.

Is is unvented, fully canvassed, and fully lined, with four button cuffs. It is in absolutely excellent condition; the two exterior pockets are still basted shut!

Despite being made for Land Rover this is a *real* tweed jacket, and so is a bargain at just $35, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA.

PS: If you're interested in Land Rovers, one of the best defences of them as city vehicles is given in Iain Banks' novel *Dead Air*!








7) Cheeky 1970s Tweed!

c. 38, 40. Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 24 1/8
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 29 1/2

The slightly wide lapels and the scalloped pocket flaps place this in the 1970s.... But that the lapels are not too wide and the scalloping more an echo of a British hacking jacket than a deliberate fashion statement places this jacket as one that was bought by someone more used to classic clothing, who was making a tentative foray into the 1970s.

Let's hope that he retreated quickly... But he didn't make any egregious errors with this jacket! While most 1970s items that veer towards the fashionable are rather garish, this little gem is more cheeky--there's something very appealing about its knowingly moving towards being fashionable but not quite being willing to commit!

This means that this is utterly wearable today! It's also very versatile, with a lovely striped tweed of dove grey, petrol blue, and berry red accent stripe. It is a two button model with very subtle darts, a single rear vent, and two button cuffs.

It was Union made in the USA, and is in excellent condition!

Asking just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

8) LOVELY Harris Tweed jacket in grey and cream "broken bone" herringbone, with lilac and sky blue striping.

c. 40. Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30

This is lovely! Cut from a lovely grey-and-cream broken bone herringbone Harris tweed shot through with vertical stripes of lilac and sky blue, this is a truly beautiful jacket!

It is cut as a contemporary two-button model with subtle darting, and is half-lined. It has a single center vent, and all of the buttons are metal-shanked, leather-covered football buttons. It was Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.








9) CLASSIC Harris Tweed jacket in bracken and slate-grey basketweave.

c. 42, 44. Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 25 3/4 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 31 1/2

Cut from a lovely classic basketweave Harris tweed in bracken and slate grey, this is a contemporary two button jacket with a half-lining, half-canvas construction, and a single center vent. All of its buttons are leather-covered, metal-shanked "football" buttons.

It was, of course, made in the USA, and with the exception of a quarter-sized water spot on the lining of the shoulders it is in excellent condition.

NB: Please note that the jacket does NOT have a mark on the label; that's just a shadow!

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

10) ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS! Italian Guncheck Tweed Jacket in Loro Piana wool and cashmere.



Italian Guncheck Tweed Jacket in Loro Piana wool and cashmere.

Tagged EU 52R (US 42R) this fits closer to a 40R.

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 30 1/4

This is absolutely beautiful! Cut from a wonderfully soft and luxurious (yet hard-wearing) blend of cashmere and wool from Loro Piana, the patterning and colourway of this jacket is a wonderfully Italian take on a classic British guncheck: a barleycorn weave with overchecking in early-autumn bracken and burnished chestnut.

Like the fabric it is cut from the jacket is an Italian twist on a British classic with the three button front and twin vents of a hacking jacket, but with a softer cut as befits its Italian origin--although it retains its British military shoulders. The three buttons on each cuff are *just* kissing, and rest on faux buttonholes in the British style. The jacket is darted, fully lined, and half-canvassed. It is in excellent condition, apart from a small ink stain on the inside of one of the interior pockets!

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.








11) BEAUTIFUL Vintage 3/2 Tweed Sack from Wm. H. Wanamaker's of Philadelphia.



Tagged 40R. Measurements:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 29 1/2

This is absolutely beautiful! It was made for Wm. H. Wanamaker of Philadelphia--the extremely upscale menswear store that was founded by the brother of John Wanamaker, the founded of Wanamaker's department store in Philadelphia. The maker was Palm Beach--a brand name of the Goodall Co., a Maine-based clothing manufacturer that was founded in 1931, and that started life making very traditional and upscale clothing--as this jacket attests!

Cut as a classic 3/2 sack from beautiful dark brown herringbone tweed with vertical striping in chestnut and pale green lichen, this is fully canvassed and half-lined. It has a single center hook vent and two-button cuffs. It was, of course, Union made in the USA and is in excellent condition!

Asking just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

12) VINTAGE Anglophile Hacking Jacket from Zachary All of the "Miracle Mile", Los Angeles, Calif.



(The dappling on the jacket is just evening sunlight filtered through a century-old mulberry tree!)

c. 42, 44. Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 30 1/2

A truly lovely jacket, this is modeled on a traditional British hacking jacket, with its twin vents, slanted hacking pockets, slanted (and fully functional) ticket pocket, and wonderful checking and colourway in a medley of bracken, moss green, and lichens!

It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and was Union made in the USA for Zachary All--a store founded in the 1950s and that became so famous in Los Angeles for its television commercials that they inspired Frank Zappa's song "Eddie are you kidding?" (Eddie was the owner of the store, and rhetorically asked himself that question on behalf of his friends owing to his low prices!)

This lovely jacket thus carries with it a small part of Los Angeles history. But, more than that, it's a lovely gem of a jacket that is ready to give you many years of tweedy Anglophilic service!

This has some minor wear to the lining, as shown, and could use a dry clean to freshen it up. It is thus in Very Good condition.

Asking just $39, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

13) Polo University Tweed by Ralph Lauren.



Union Made in the USA.

c. 40. Measurements:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 25 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 17 1/2
Length: 29 1/2

This is a lovely tweed from Polo University! Cut from a classic brown herringbone tweed with subtle burnt orange, Spring green, and sky blue overchecking this is a contemporary two-button model with subtle darts. Featuring a single center vent, this is fully lined.

There is a small weave fault on the lapel (there since new!) and a small minor fray in the lining (not there since new!) and so this is in Very Good condition.

Asking just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

14) CLASSIC 3/2 sack in dark brown herringbone tweed from Van Boven of Ann Arbor, Mich.!

c. 44, 46. Measurements:

Chest: 23 1/4
Sleeve: 24 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30




Founded in 1921, Van Boven is one of the few traditional clothiers that is still going strong--and they still purvey classic Ivy items such as this lovely 3/2 sack in dark brown herringbone tweed!

Although this presents as a dark brown herringbone tweed closer inspection reveals that this is in fact a wonderful medley of dark chestnut brown, lichen greens, and earthy black. Cut as a 3/2 sack with a high lapel roll this lovely jacket is half-canvassed and half-lined, and features a single center vent. It has three button cuffs, and was Union Made in the USA.

Apart from a single thread slip on the back near the shoulder this is in excellent condition, and so is a bargain at just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA!

 

[tweedydon]

15) BEAUTIFUL 1960s Vintage Cashmere Jacket in Houndstooth, from Arnold Constable.



Tagged 39S. Measurements:

Chest: 20
Sleeve: 21 3/4 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 27 1/2

Founded in 1825, Arnold Constable was THE upscale Department store in Manhattan, and was widely acknowledged as such--dubbed the "Palace of Trade" it served New York's rich and elite, including Grover Cleveland, Andrew Carnegie, Thomas Edison, J.P. Morgan, John D. Rockefeller and Cornelius Vanderbilt.

This jacket shows just why Constable's was so revered. Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly cashmere--and the thick, luxurious cashmere of the 1960s, not the thin mall stuff that's so prevalent today.

The jacket is a very mod 1960s black and white houndstooth, with classically vintage narrow lapels and--with a nod to the English domination of the Swinging Sixties--a twin vent. The pockets, too, and slightly sloped hacking pockets--the original owner of this jacket no doubt wore it through Carnaby Street, London--or at least wished he did!

The jacket is fully canvassed and half-lined. It was, of course, Union Made in the USA, and has all of its original buttons.

It does have two minor issues--a tiny fray contained by the stitching on the top of one lapel, as shown, and two TINY spots on the lapel--these simply couldn't be seen by my camera--and likely won't be seen by you either!--but they are there if you're looking closely fro them and know where they are! As such, this is in Very Good/Excellent condition, and is just $45, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA--an absolute steal for a 1960s cashmere jacket from Constable's!

 

[tweedydon]

16) Twill Lambswool Tweed jacket by Alfred Dean traditional clothes, for Boyd's of Philadelphia.



Tagged 48L. c. 46. Measurements:

Chest: 23 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/4
Shoulder: 20 1/4
Length: 32 1/4

Made for Boyd's of Philadelphia, one of the few remaining clothing stores that has survived, largely by dint of their superb personal service, this is a lovely example of their current wares--traditional, but with a Continental twist.

Cut from a lovely soft lambswool twill tweed with a subtle pattern of alternating bands of barleycorn weave this features dark red vertical striping and a very subtl;e overcheck in single-thread berry red. This cloth was woven in the British Isles.

The jacket is a contemporary two button model with darting and jetted pockets. It is unvented, half-canvassed, and fully lined. It has metal-shanked buttons, and pick stitching throughout the lining.

It is in excellent condition except that it is missing a single button on the left-hand cuff; this could be easily remedied by converting it quickly to a jacket with two button cuffs!

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.






17) Beautiful Southwick houndstooth jacket.



Size: C. 42, 44R

Made for Roots!

This is wonderful! Made by Southwick, one of the great traditional American clothiers, for Roots, one of the great (and long gone) tradly clothiers of upscale New Jersey.

This beautiful jacket is cut from a classic grey and cream houndstooth tweed with accents of forest green, with a complementary dark red windowpane overcheck. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It's a contemporary two button front closure jacket, with subtle darting and a single centre vent. It has four button cuffs; all the buttons are horn. It was, of course, Made in the USA, and it's in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 30 1/2

 

[tweedydon]

18) Vintage "Brooksgate" Tweed Jacket

C. 42L. Tagged 44XL (vintage sizing), this measures:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 27 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 33 1/2




This is a truly lovely tweed! Made for Brooks Brothers' "Brooksgate" line. This line was aimed at younger men, and intended to be the "gate" to Brooks Brothers' more mature offerings, such as "Makers" and "346"--hence the name, "Brooksgate". Not surprisingly, considerable care was taken to ensure that there was no skimping on cut on construction on this line, and that fabrics that would elicit admiration from young women were deliberately used... After all, if you're using this line to snare the naxt generation of customers, you'd better make sure that they have very positive views of your clothing!

This jacket would be sure to tick all of these boxes. It's a lovely dove grey herringbone tweed with vertical striping in sepia rose pink and Spring sky blue--my pictures really don't do the beauty of this jacket justice at all!

Perfect for the cooler days of early Fall this is a contemporary two button model with subtle darting. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single center vent. It features chestnut leather-covered metal-shanked football buttons, with three to each cuff. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $39, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.






19) S. Cohen of Montreal Jacket

Tagged 44R, this measures:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+ 1/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 31 1/8




Size c. 42, 44.

A lovely and unusual jacket cut from Italian wool with vertical striping in dark blue-grey slate, bracken, and burnished chestnut, this is a contemporary two button model with darting and three button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and features plenty of pick stitching in the lining. It has twin vents--appropriately enough, since this is Cohen's "England" model! This was Union Made in Canada, and is in absolutely excellent (likely unworn) condition--the two front pockets are still basted shut.

Asking just $45, or offer.

 

[tweedydon]

20) MADE IN ITALY VALENTINO JACKET. Just $25!





Lovely twill cloth, perfect for Spring and Summer!


Tagged 42L. Measurements:


Chest: 22 1/8

Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+2)

Shoulder: 19 1/4

Length: 32 1/4


A lovely jacket for Spring and Summer, moving into early Fall, this lovely wool-blend (91% wool, 9% polymide) twill Valentino was Made in Italy, and has all the insouciance you'd thus expect. Cut as a contemporary two button model with darting, this is unvented in Flusser approved style. It features faux button holes with kissing buttons, is half-canvassed, and fully lined.


It does have a very small hole near the hem at the rear, and so is in Very Good condition only--hence just $25, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA!

 

[tweedydon]

(1) is sold!

 

[tweedydon]

(5) is sold.

OFFERS VERY WELCOME!

 

[tweedydon]

(1) is sold.

OFFERS VERY WELCOME...and remember, it's tweed season now!

 

[tweedydon]

17 is sold!

 

[tweedydon]

BUMP!