Trouser gals

[rubyredlocks]

Ditto with what Ruby said. I've owned quite a few pairs over the years and the crotches are always lower than on modern pairs. Usually about 1-2 inches lower, depending on the pair. I find the lower crotch to be much more comfortable. I think because I am long waisted and have a long rise. Most modern pants give me bad camel toe and wedgies because they aren't long enough. It's so uncomfortable.

A good point! Your body type has a lot to do with the fit.
I'm the opposite of BeBopBaby. Very short torso,so they hang closer to a 3-4 inch difference if sitting on my natural waist. To get the crotch in the right area without aid of a tailor I would have to pull them just under my bustline.

 

[mrswheats]

Also, for ladies doing the modern 'high waist' pant, make sure its not hugging your hips and butt. As we can see from that great pic Shrinkingviolet posted, to get the look right, its snug at the waist only.
LD

I have this Simplicity pattern that I'm making (after the 3 skirts and 2 blouses I have cut out ). I like the pants on this one because it has a modern rise, but is wide through the hip and thigh--I'm with Ruby, I don't like the look or feel of the low vintage rise, and since I'm 5' 4" tall with a short waist, they look especially ridiculous on me.

 

[BeBopBaby]

A good point! Your body type has a lot to do with the fit.
I'm the opposite of BeBopBaby. Very short torso,so they hang closer to a 3-4 inch difference if sitting on my natural waist. To get the crotch in the right area without aid of a tailor I would have to pull them just under my bustline.

I never fail to be amazed by all the different body types nature creates. I've got a good 5-1/2 inches between the bottom of my ribcage and the top of my hipbone, and it really affects the fit of pants on me. By the time I get pants that are long enough in the rise - they are gigantic every where else. I wish I had an inseam to match my rise, then I'd be 6" tall and wouldn't have to hem all my pants.

 

[Lady Day]

I have a vintage linen pair that are heavenly in the summertime. Wool would be too hot for me in the summertime.

Thats what I thought too, till I got some wool gabardine fabric and wore them on an 80+ degree day, and they were just fine

LD

 

[The Dame]

Also, for ladies doing the modern 'high waist' pant, make sure its not hugging your hips and butt. As we can see from that great pic Shrinkingviolet posted, to get the look right, its snug at the waist only.

See, that's where I part company with 'the look' - if it's tight at the waist only, I think it looks ill-fitting and sloppy - or like a gal dressing up in her boyfriend's pants instead of wearing pants made for her. I prefer a closer fit through the hips and rear with a wide leg. And if you look at some of the vintage sailor pants, they are pretty fitted through the waist, hips and rear before flaring at the leg. I'm too vain to be much of a purist in this regard, I guess.

 

[KittyT]

See, that's where I part company with 'the look' - if it's tight at the waist only, I think it looks ill-fitting and sloppy - or like a gal dressing up in her boyfriend's pants instead of wearing pants made for her. I prefer a closer fit through the hips and rear with a wide leg. And if you look at some of the vintage sailor pants, they are pretty fitted through the waist, hips and rear before flaring at the leg. I'm too vain to be much of a purist in this regard, I guess.

I agree, just look at the photos on the repro patterns I posted on the first page of this thread. Those are more fitted through the hips and have a very vintage look to them! I'm assuming they shouldn't be super snug, but I don't think they should be too loose either. The vintage patterns below show both trousers that are fitted through the hips and those that are looser. I don't think ones that are more fitted through the hips are necessarily period-incorrect.

1942:

1945:

No specific date, but 1940s:

 

[The Dame]

I'm assuming they shouldn't be super snug, but I don't think they should be too loose either. The vintage patterns below show both trousers that are fitted through the hips and those that are looser. I don't think ones that are more fitted through the hips are necessarily period-incorrect.

Yeah, I'm not interested in going back to the way-too-tight 80s!

Great examples, KittyT! :eusa_clap

 

[Idledame]

For those still wondering about the term zoot suit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoot_suit

 

[The Dame]

For those still wondering about the term zoot suit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoot_suit

I think it was the zoot 'gang' we were wondering about ... were they arrested because they were dames in zoots?

 

[Lady Day]

Good examples Kitty T, but those still arnt tight compaired with modern trousers that have been posted. They drape over your leg, not on it.

LD

 

[Blondie]

Anyone wanna start a Zoot Girl Gang ????

 

[The Dame]

Sure. But dontcha think we oughtta establish what a Zoot Girl Gang is???

 

[Blondie]

From what i understand, they were the pachuco girls that hung out with
the Zoot Suit boys in L.A in the early 40's.

 

[ShrinkingViolet]

I want to be in a Zoot gang.

So do I!
There's nothing like getting that rush of empowerment from seeing old photographs like this one. This is where I found the pic but unfortunately there's not much information apart from "Above Girls Were Zoot Suiters As Well". Somebody ought to do some research on this.

 

[ShrinkingViolet]

I've had a few original pairs over the years. The crotch area has been much lower on every pair. Sounds correct to me. I did have a tailor take them up a bit in that area,because I didn't care to be that period correct. In other words,go with with your preference.

That makes sense. I didn't notice anything strange about the muslin but now that I've made them up in gabardine there seems to be too much fabric in that area. Thanks for your opinion
Could it be that those Girl Zooters wear trousers with a more extreme loose fit because they are, after all, ghetto sistaz? I mean, that it's some kind of subcultural dress code?

 

[CassD]

I think there was a variety of fits and styles of trousers even then, though the high-waisted, wide-legged trousers seemed to be more popular in Hollywood than others (perhaps they were viewed as a more feminine look??).

I think the reason for the masses of fabric on the female Zoot Suiters is that it was the style for the Zoot Suiters to look as though they were wearing something that was quite a few sizes too big. I could go into the history of it that I know, but it would be way off topic and would probably bore everyone to death.

 

[Blondie]

Hey CassD, i wouldnt be bored ! I love learning new stuff , especially about subcultural fashion .

 

[ShrinkingViolet]

I for one would't be bored either

 

[CassD]

Well, since it appears a few people are interested, from the minor research that I've done, the style of the Zoot Suit came about from a combination of poverty and fabric rationing. Young men were wearing their fathers' suits, which tended to be too big and rather baggy. Eventually, it became a tailored style and it appears to have passed on to the female fashions where trousers are concerned, though female Zoot Suiters quite often wore dresses and outfits similar to those that other women of the time were wearing.

And on a more on-topic note, I found a fantastic pair of high-waisted, wide-leg trousers on sale at Debenhams for 15 pounds, for any of you UK ladies.

 

[dollydaydream]

I got a couple of pairs of high waisted jeans from Primark the other day but I had to get a size larger than I usually would because their sizing is all off. One of them fits perfectly round the waist, but the other (same size) is too big. Both fit around my hips & bottom, but are about 5 inches too long!! I also got a smart pair of high waisted trousers from Peacocks in their sale for £7. I adore them, but they sit at the top of my hip rather than my wiast. Stupid big hips!

I think I will have to get started on the pattern I have to make a pair that fit me properly. I don't like them to be too tight around my hip area, like the wide leg & high waist though. They make me look taller which is always a good thing :eusa_clap

Yay trousers!