Trench Coat - the 'Ultimate' Thread!

[Doctor Damage]

That photo is of Gary Cooper in "A Man From Wyoming". Here's another pic.

 

[Hal]

Doctor D - while these coats are definitely on the short side, their shorter length would not cause this sort of legwear (breeches and boots) to be as wet as trousers would be in serious rain.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Doctor D - while these coats are definitely on the short side, their shorter length would not cause this sort of legwear (breeches and boots) to be as wet as trousers would be in serious rain.

They other reason for their short length was ease of movement and so the skirts don't catch on everything.

 

[Doctor Damage]

I just got this Aquascutum Kingsgate trench coat from an e-bay seller. It's a tan colour, darker than in the photos. Condition is indistinguishable from new. It's the last of the "made in England" coats, I've got another Kingsgate but later and made in Italy. This UK coat is much heavier and more solid. It's amazing and I'm thrilled to have it, even though it won't see much use since I've got four other trench coats.

Update: This coat will be too big, unfortunately. Shame, 'cause it's the most solid trench coat I've ever seen.

 

[Hal]

They other reason for their short length was ease of movement and so the skirts don't catch on everything.

I'm sure that this was the principal reason; the wearing of breeches and boots also makes the short length practicable.

 

[Doctor Damage]

1970s Burberry ad. Note the price (sigh).

 

[Trenchfriend]

1970s Burberry ad. Note the price (sigh).

In Germany:

Burberry "Brit", chinese imported, sufficient "massmarket-quality" = 899 EUR (100% cotton)
Similar storebrand-trench, chinese imported, sufficient "massmarket-quality" = 199 EUR (59% cotton/41% nylon)

 

[Hal]

1970s Burberry ad. Note the price (sigh).

AND, with its all-cotton outer fabric and inner lining ("warmer") with sleeves, this was one of their higher-priced models.

 

[TPD166]

Jack’s – not Rick’s.

From the Jack Webb Archives on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/Jack-Webb-Archives-453527154752962/?fref=nf). Apparently they recently found one that Jack had personally purchased from Sears for $5.95.

 

[Lone_Ranger]

I kept a London Fog for years. It wasn't the best fitting choice. I had to get a "tall" in order to get the sleeves to fit at all, and even then, when sitting my suit cuff would stick out way too far. And the length of the bottom was too long. I would step on it walking up stairs. I even bought a second one used online, when I found London Fog had gone out of business.

I looked around and found they were beginning to be very rare. Burberry still offered one but it was $1000. Way too much! I kept an eye out and about two years ago Bookster offered one that was perfect. It was pricy but several $100 less than the Burberry. I kept an eye out and when they did a 20% off offer I pulled the trigger. It turned out to be a beautiful coat. It is the standard khaki color, but has a mossy undertone to it depending on how the light hits it. It also corrected the size problems with my London Fog. The sleeves were a touch longer. Or perhaps just better fitting arm holes. And the length was a touch shorter. Still below the knees but not so far that I walk on it.
Checking back though, they no longer have it offered on their website.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Here's an extraordinary old trench coat which was on the UK e-Bay site recently. This is basically a perfect design, in my opinion.

 

[GHT]

I just got this Aquascutum Kingsgate trench coat from an e-bay seller. It's a tan colour, darker than in the photos. Condition is indistinguishable from new. It's the last of the "made in England" coats, I've got another Kingsgate but later and made in Italy. This UK coat is much heavier and more solid. It's amazing and I'm thrilled to have it, even though it won't see much use since I've got four other trench coats.

Update: This coat will be too big, unfortunately. Shame, 'cause it's the most solid trench coat I've ever seen.

That's a beautiful coat, compliments to you. Did you know that Aquascutum brought out an updated version of Bogart's Casablanca trench coat in 2016?
I have no idea where it's made, or how much it costs but this link will give you more details.

 

[Doctor Damage]

That's a beautiful coat, compliments to you. Did you know that Aquascutum brought out an updated version of Bogart's Casablanca trench coat in 2016?
I have no idea where it's made, or how much it costs but this link will give you more details.

I've been eyeing those new "Bogart" coats. They're not actually accurate to Bogey's coat, which is seen in those photos of him with one foot on the running board of an old car, but they appear to be top quality coats nonetheless. One detail on those new coats which interests me in particular is the throat latch: Aquascutum has for a long time had a small throat latch which was not much more than a wide strap; the new coats have one with extends down over the hook-and-loop and secures with a third button, which would really make the coat waterproof. Anyways, the price is insane, and beyond what I'm willing to pay!

 

[Hal]

Here's an extraordinary old trench coat which was on the UK e-Bay site recently. This is basically a perfect design, in my opinion.

This one has the closed inverted pleat at the back (instead of the open vent up which the wind can blow). I don't understand why all trench coats are not made this way.

 

[Doctor Damage]

This one has the closed inverted pleat at the back (instead of the open vent up which the wind can blow). I don't understand why all trench coats are not made this way.

Different functionality, different situations. On shorter coats just the slit is better if one is getting in and out of a car, since it can be quickly smoothed under your backside. In those situations the box pleat with button tab that keeps it closed are too easily re-pressed by sitting on them and the button, if in the wrong spot, can dig in. I'm not joking, my long trench coat with box pleat etc is great for walking around since it keeps the weather out, but in and out of the car it means sitting on several layers of cloth, plus that button, and it all ends up looking a mess.

 

[Hal]

Different functionality, different situations. On shorter coats just the slit is better if one is getting in and out of a car, since it can be quickly smoothed under your backside...I'm not joking, my long trench coat with box pleat etc is great for walking around since it keeps the weather out, but in and out of the car it means sitting on several layers of cloth, plus that button, and it all ends up looking a mess.

As before, you point out something that I overlooked; but as one who is trying to use the car less the "car" argument is of increasingly less importance to me. A shorter raincoat, particularly of the single-breasted variety, I think of as a coat more for light rain and summer wear, while the double-breasted style is for more "serious" rain when the pleated back works well (as indeed you say).

 

[Doctor Damage]

As before, you point out something that I overlooked; but as one who is trying to use the car less the "car" argument is of increasingly less importance to me. A shorter raincoat, particularly of the single-breasted variety, I think of as a coat more for light rain and summer wear, while the double-breasted style is for more "serious" rain when the pleated back works well (as indeed you say).

I'm definitely interested in getting a shorter single-breasted raincoat for days when I'm not walking anywhere, for when a big trench is just too much. You're in the UK so you still have the option to walk, depending on where you live; over here walking is rarely an option!

 

[Hal]

I'm definitely interested in getting a shorter single-breasted raincoat for days when I'm not walking anywhere...

Makes good sense on two related practical grounds - getting into and out of vehicles, and relatively short times out in the rain.

 

[Doctor Damage]

Makes good sense on two related practical grounds - getting into and out of vehicles, and relatively short times out in the rain.

and I would add it's easier on whip on and off, no belt to fuss with, and looks marginally better unbuttoned when it warms up suddenly

 

[Doctor Damage]

Here's a couple of Burberry catalogue scans from 1998. (These are from their "on sale" booklets they send around, so don't assume the prices or available sizes represented the full range at the time.)