Trench Coat - the 'Ultimate' Thread!

[Doctor Damage]

I'm in the market for my first (and hopefully last) trenchcoat and I came across this website. http://www.tailor4less.com/en-us/men/custom-trench-coats/configure

The trench coat material is 52% cotton & 48% polyester is that any good? It's my understanding they were originally made with wool, is this a quality material for such a coat?

Trench coats can be made from anything, but as I understand it the original ones used in the trenches of WW1 were cotton with a removable wool liner, like most classic trench coats. The cotton/poly blend is more modern, but in my opinion it helps reduce wear and helps with water repellency. Of course, the original coats were made from a tightly woven 100% cotton in a weight which you can't really get today. So a blend is a good modern compromise.

 

[Leacock]

Trench coats can be made from anything, but as I understand it the original ones used in the trenches of WW1 were cotton with a removable wool liner, like most classic trench coats. The cotton/poly blend is more modern, but in my opinion it helps reduce wear and helps with water repellency. Of course, the original coats were made from a tightly woven 100% cotton in a weight which you can't really get today. So a blend is a good modern compromise.

Thank you for the advice. That is good to know.

 

[Leacock]

Actually would anyone have recommendations on trenchcoat sellers, particularly to Canada? Having looked more deeply into Tailor4Less they seem to have a somewhat unfortunate reputation quality assurance wise.

I also realised that I probably don't need a made to measure overcoat that much, as all I need is a long XL that is rigidly formulaic and stereotypical, I just want a conventional trenchcoat and off the rack would probably be cheaper.

Sorry if anyone has posted such information in the thread already, it is a rather long one!

 

[Two Types]

David Farrar in Freida (1947)

 

[Doctor Damage]

 

[Fastuni]

1930's Dresden. Click to enlarge.



http://www.deutschefotothek.de/documents/obj/87506780

Leipzig 1954 - the 1000th trenchcoat made from rayon ("Zellwolle") by "Policke & Wunder".



http://www.deutschefotothek.de/documents/obj/88904265

Leipzig 1953 - trenchcoat by the VEB Bekleidung ("people-owned factory - clothing") Leipzig.

http://www.deutschefotothek.de/documents/obj/88896745

 

[Two Types]

Now you just need to find me a raincoat like that, complete with VEB label.

 

[Fastuni]

If it comes across you'll know it!
Indeed I found a perfect German trenchcoat (50's) recently - but from Bavaria and my size 40.
Photos come soon.

 

[one2rock]

Trench coats can be made from anything, but as I understand it the original ones used in the trenches of WW1 were cotton with a removable wool liner, like most classic trench coats. The cotton/poly blend is more modern, but in my opinion it helps reduce wear and helps with water repellency. Of course, the original coats were made from a tightly woven 100% cotton in a weight which you can't really get today. So a blend is a good modern compromise.

Hi,

I have a question regarding Grenfell trench coats.

It is my understanding that the Grenfell cloth was a tightly woven gabardine made from 600 thread-per-inch Egyptian cotton. Some have stated that the cloth was even more tightly woven than Burberry's. I have seen a few Grenfell trench coats in 100% cotton on eBay which were labeled "GRENFELL MAJER Made in England". Are these coats made from Grenfell cloth or is the mountain climber label specifically stating "Made from GRENFELL cloth" required?

I believe that MAJER Clothing is an American clothing brand.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

Does anyone know where I could procure 8 trench coat buttons in a khaki or beige colour?

Thanx!!!
Charlie

 

[Fastuni]

German 30-50's trenchcoat with raglan sleeves and civilian "Ulster" design (no collar hooks, shoulder straps etc.).

Fawn-sand (no hint of green) gabardine with plaid extra liner.

 

[Doctor Damage]

^ wonderful coat - thanks for posting!

 

[stratcat]

I've been following Burberry trenches on ebay for a while now and watched them go for all sort of prices. When one appeared with a buy it now for £25 I jumped on it. It's got a couple of small marks but other than that it's in great condition. The seller thought it was from the 70's but it's a poly/cotton mix so I think it's later. Anyway, I'm happy!

 

[Doctor Damage]

I've been following Burberry trenches on ebay for a while now and watched them go for all sort of prices. When one appeared with a buy it now for £25 I jumped on it. It's got a couple of small marks but other than that it's in great condition. The seller thought it was from the 70's but it's a poly/cotton mix so I think it's later. Anyway, I'm happy!
View attachment 23898

You did extremely well and I'm envious! That coat fits you superbly well - lots of length but trim around the torso. The poly/cotton blend will resist wear and tear longer and will be more weather repellant. That small tab to close the collar might seem less interesting than the classic ones with the buckle and straps, but the tab is a lot easier to use, especially when it suddenly starts raining and you don't have 5 minutes to fuss with the buckles, etc, before getting wet.

 

[stratcat]

Yes I'm so lucky, I'd been watching them sell for upwards of £80 for the previous weeks and when I saw it I just went for it! Glad I did as it's a great fit.
Good advice re the collar tab, I hadn't realised that there is a button to hold it back too to stop it flapping about as well.
I'm not sure whether to have a go at re-proofing it or to leave it well alone and see how it copes with the best that the north of Englands weather can throw at it! I suppose if it aint broke, don't fix it.

 

[Doctor Damage]

I'm not sure whether to have a go at re-proofing it or to leave it well alone and see how it copes with the best that the north of Englands weather can throw at it! I suppose if it aint broke, don't fix it.

That.

 

[Trenchfriend]

Hi, I'm from Germany!

I always liked Trenchcoats, but all these years, until 2014, I never got the idea of really buying one, because I was not in this "clothing-thing". ;-)

But over the years, less the cool and vintage Humphrey Bogart-thing, but more and more the Jean-Pierre Melville/Jef Costello-thing got me. I like this melancholic, romantic and elegant style, especially like Jef Costello, a little bit more than the iconic Bogie-Style.

So I was looking around, to get a most authentic or vintage cream-coloured Trench. And near to me, there is a classic fashion-markets, which sells A to A+quality. And of course, today there are also housebrand-fashion-items, which offer average A-quality, but fairly priced, without a famous brandname.

Surely, the actual Trenchcoats are not anymore the 4/4 or 3/4-length, but It's ok to me. Now, I have three housebrand-trenchcoats of the same style (91cm length). The first is the classic "Jef Costello"-cream/sand) ;-), but not water-repellent and the quality is really more B than A.

The second and third are the same model (one black, one cream), which is water-repellent (light) and seems to be good A-quality. I love them really! You can find it under "Trenchcoat Sergio" (Hirmer) on web.
My black one is from Karstadt-housebrand "Bogie"!! ;-))

 

[Big J]

Does anyone know where I could procure 8 trench coat buttons in a khaki or beige colour?

Thanx!!!
Charlie

Waaaay late spotting this, but you should try At The Front. They make repro WW2 US uniforms, but sell all manner of repro period brown and khaki buttons.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

Waaaay late spotting this, but you should try At The Front. They make repro WW2 US uniforms, but sell all manner of repro period brown and khaki buttons.

Thank you very much. I had to do a double take as I had forgotten that I posted this question.
Thanx!
Charlie

 

[Trenchfriend]

Tomorrow, I will take some photos of me and my trenches.

See you, I have to go to sleep...