top quality selvage jeans available in Tokyo

[schitzo]

The gf has a trip here soon. To my utter amazement of her own volition she has offered to buy me a pair of jeans while she's there, on account of remembering me once say that Japanese denim is the best.

Trouble is, I don't know what to ask for. Naturally, she'll need to be told exactly where to go to buy them.

So, I wonder can any of you pitch in with a suggestion or two? I would be especially pleased to hear from the authority on this subject that is Blackadder, or from anyone else who lives out there

To narrow it down a bit, I don't want skinny or slim. I like slim/straight like the 23oz Lee 101s that I have already, but am open to all suggestions and am willing to try some more vintage styled fits. Basically, I want to take this opportunity to get my hands on something really nice that I wouldn't otherwise have access to. Maybe I'll even go in for more than one pair..

Fire away men

 

[handymike]

I'd check out the "favorite jeans" thread over on Denimbro!

 

[bentusian]

The Flat Head could be a good place to start:

http://tfh.flat-head.com/modules/flat_head/index.php?content_id=229

I would recommend model 3002 or 3005

 

[zhz]

I would SUGGEST these:
EVISU made in JAPAN, no1 type 2000. This is top quality jeans, not rubbish EU version.
SUGAR CANE 1947 TYPE 1/TYPE2. type 2 is slimmer than TYPE 1
WAREHOUSE model 1001xx
RESOLUTE type 710
Freewheelers 601xx type 1947

All these jeans are 13-14oz, based on LEVIS 1947, 1955, 1966 model, true vintage styel, great fade.

 

[zhz]

Also, I woudl not recommended Joy mccoy and Denime xx now. Because the cut and quality is different from what they used to be.

 

[mendelboaz]

What about Samurai? I own a pair of 21oz 510xx and they're great. Many claim Samurai to be the best in raw selvedge denim.

 

[Ishmael]

If you like the Lees, then you could pick up a pair of the RMC Lees. They're the best Lee repros around (IMO). And the RMC shop is easy enough to find.

https://www.realmccoys.co.jp/catalog/products/detail.php?product_id=1917&pg=

http://www.realmccoys.co.jp/shop/map_1.html

I'd also take a look at Freewheelers 601xx in both the 1947 and 1951 cuts. (I prefer the latter) And their Desolation Row shop is also in central Tokyo.

http://freewheelers.co.jp/blog/archives/9877

http://freewheelers.co.jp/blog/archives/9847

https://www.google.com/maps/place/2...2!3m1!1s0x60188cbd210d0b8d:0x4c9882b2ec2b4243

For something a bit less traditional, you might check out the Mister Freedom Californias in the Onikawa (= sugar cane) denim.

http://www.christopheloiron.com/californian-lot-64-okinawa-issue-made-in-usa/

You can find those, and many other top quality denims, at Hinoya in Ameyokocho.

http://hinoya-ameyoko.com/hinoya/access/index.html

Nearby is also Amerikaya. They carry Freewheelers, Joe McCoy, Deluxeware and Samurai denim.

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/americaya/c/0000000198/

 

[zhz]

RMC is good, how can I forgot it.
I like the freewheelers 1951 cut as well, but I think the 1947 model has a better hardwear and denim. But still, they both great jeans.

If you like the Lees, then you could pick up a pair of the RMC Lees. They're the best Lee repros around (IMO). And the RMC shop is easy enough to find.

https://www.realmccoys.co.jp/catalog/products/detail.php?product_id=1917&pg=

http://www.realmccoys.co.jp/shop/map_1.html

I'd also take a look at Freewheelers 601xx in both the 1947 and 1951 cuts. (I prefer the latter) And their Desolation Row shop is also in central Tokyo.

http://freewheelers.co.jp/blog/archives/9877

http://freewheelers.co.jp/blog/archives/9847

https://www.google.com/maps/place/2...2!3m1!1s0x60188cbd210d0b8d:0x4c9882b2ec2b4243

For something a bit less traditional, you might check out the Mister Freedom Californias in the Onikawa (= sugar cane) denim.

http://www.christopheloiron.com/californian-lot-64-okinawa-issue-made-in-usa/

You can find those, and many other top quality denims, at Hinoya in Ameyokocho.

http://hinoya-ameyoko.com/hinoya/access/index.html

Nearby is also Amerikaya. They carry Freewheelers, Joe McCoy, Deluxeware and Samurai denim.

http://item.rakuten.co.jp/americaya/c/0000000198/

 

[Ishmael]

1947 and 1951 used to have different denim. But are now using the same denim. There are subtle differences between them, but the main difference is the cut.

 

[mactire]

Will she be heading to Kojima at all? Thats the real hotspot for denim in Japan.

 

[Blackadder]

Ueno as suggested by Ishmael is a great place to start. Hinoya is a nice shop.
It would be a long list.
Personally, I would start with Warehouse because they have a wide range of jeans copied from different era being sold under different labels.
http://info.ware-house.co.jp/shoplist.html
Would like to know more about the era and style you are looking for.
All the other suggestions are great but there are also many others like UES, 45R.

 

[schitzo]

Would like to know more about the era and style you are looking for.
.

I too would like to know!
But thanks for your input - and for everyone else's too. If I may elaborate, this time I want something vintage looking that doesn't look ridiculous on my slim (ish) frame. What I think I'm after, is something not at all modern but not so baggy and loose either, that can better compliment the vintage leather jackets I have, some of which are on the short side.

Suggestions based on this criteria, that factor in also quality of denim, hardware, construction, and value are warmly welcomed.
For the guy who asked, I'm afraid Tokyo is as far as she's gonna get.

Since her buying me anything is a blue moon event I'll likely charge her with getting me an expensive pair, on top of which I may tack on a more cost effective purchase financed by me

PS I found this useful link for shops: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/25260-denim-shops-in-tokyo/

 

[Ishmael]

This is what I'd get. And also what I'd reccomend for you, based on your description. FW 1951.

 

[Blackadder]

A few things first
1) Japanese consumption tax refund- remember to keep your passport on you all the time and do not open any packing if you intend to claim refund.
2) Jeans are often offered in "one-wash" as well as unwashed model in Japan
3) Japanese jeans are often very true to size i.e. a size 33 jeans will likely be 33in before shrinkage. Quick and dirty way is to go up one size but you can also find most measurements on Rakuten.

 

[Blackadder]

For heavy weight jeans, there are Samurai and Iron Heart.
For late 1800s- early 1900s repro style, there are Duckdigger and Heller's Cafe of warehouse (these are often slimmer version of the very early Levi's)
For better bargain jeans, there are Sugarcane and Kojima Genes.
If you want a pair to match your 20s or 30s leather jacket, you can't go wrong with Heller's Cafe. Also these repros of early jeans have more hardware and other features.
To start journey
http://global.rakuten.com/en/event/fashion/jeans/?l-id=rgm_4001-30
https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=...285070396932.00000111c41306a0016ff&dg=feature

 

[schitzo]

This is what I'd get. And also what I'd reccomend for you, based on your description. FW 1951.



]

You could well be right about these, I like the look. And if I bought these for myself that would leave room for a more extravagantly priced pair

A few things first
1) Japanese consumption tax refund- remember to keep your passport on you all the time and do not open any packing if you intend to claim refund.

I'm not really getting what this is? As for the purchase these will be delivered to me by my courier and refunds are off the table


Re prices on the Freewheelers website. The 1951s are 23,000 yen + tax, but how much is the tax? I'm guessing, would that be like another 20% on top? Under 28k for those doesn't seem too bad

 

[Blackadder]

They raised the VAT from 5% to 8% earlier this year and have implemented a better VAT refund policy. You need your passport with you at the shop to claim refund and the goods will be packed and/or sealed nicely. To ensure that you do not use the goods in Japan, you cannot open the packing before leaving Japan in order to claim a refund.

 

[schitzo]

They raised the VAT from 5% to 8% earlier this year and have implemented a better VAT refund policy. You need your passport with you at the shop to claim refund and the goods will be packed and/or sealed nicely. To ensure that you do not use the goods in Japan, you cannot open the packing before leaving Japan in order to claim a refund.

gotcha. Where I come from VAT like that seems overly fair. I will make sure the courier has her passport to hand. Thx.

Now I just need to settle on which model/s..

 

[Blackadder]

gotcha. Where I come from VAT like that seems overly fair. I will make sure the courier has her passport to hand. Thx.

Now I just need to settle on which model/s..

These vintage style Japanese jeans are often repros of original Levi's. For example, Sugarcane's SC41947 is repro of 1944 Levi's whilst the SC42009A is repro of 1947 Levi's. The Warehouse 1001 is also repro of 1944. The Vanishing West 1951 is likely copies of 1947 Levi's. LVC's site would be a good reference on the fit.
http://levisvintageclothing.com/collection_type/501/

 

[schitzo]

What about Samurai? I own a pair of 21oz 510xx and they're great. Many claim Samurai to be the best in raw selvedge denim.

Mendel any danger you could post a pic of you in yours? Atm I'm thinking one medium weight and one pair heavy. I have heard good things about Samurai too