Top Quality Biltmore

[Joshbru3]

I saw some in OKC that were Silverbelly with a Cattleman crease labeled "Calgary" as the model name.
I didn't get a good look at the label tho.

Tom, does the label on your hat say code BLF2001? Perry's hat has that code and that corresponds with the model code in Biltmore's 2006 catalog for the "Wilderness."

 

[hatophile]

Fawn looks like a nice color, a little lighter than the fawn CD I think. Silver belly looks almost white in the pics.

 

[gtdean48]

Tom, does the label on your hat say code BLF2001? Perry's hat has that code and that corresponds with the model code in Biltmore's 2006 catalog for the "Wilderness."

No, mine has a different code & instead of Wilderness has 5X.
I posted when Mike had photos of his label but in a different thread that I can't find.
I'll keep looking or get it from hat when I get home tonight.

Found it in Other Open Roads thread = http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...pen-Roads...&p=1540406&viewfull=1#post1540406

Mine says BWF2001

 

[Hoyt Clagwell]

All of the new models for 2012 Fall and Winter will have been made in Texas. It looks to me that they are not offering quite as many finishes as they used to.

 

[Walt]

Got my Wilderness from HatsPlus a few weeks ago and must say I to am very pleased with the hat. It's black which was the only color left and would not have been my color choice as I already have loads of black hats including cowboy, bowler and homburg (would prefer Caribou and Fawn) but it is a darn nice hat for a factory hat at that price. The finish/hand of the fur felt is quite good for a factory hat. Trimmings are also quit nice.

Crying shame that there won't be anymore made. Speaking for myself I guess that's what happens when most of my hat deficit spending tends to go to vintage hats.

If what the numerous hat vendors I contacted told me holds true Biltmore may not last much longer as a brand.

 

[Joshbru3]

No, mine has a different code & instead of Wilderness has 5X.
I posted when Mike had photos of his label but in a different thread that I can't find.
I'll keep looking or get it from hat when I get home tonight.

Found it in Other Open Roads thread = http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...pen-Roads...&p=1540406&viewfull=1#post1540406

Mine says BWF2001

Ah, very cool, thanks so much for looking Tom! I did a little research and found some interesting things. The Silver Buckle hats are always a western type hat. With the exception of your Open Road, every hat with a Silver Buckle liner that I've seen has been a stiff heavy weight cowboy hat. Because I can't find a catalog from Biltmore with western models, I would have to imagine that your hat might be a bit nicer than the "Wilderness Collection" Open Roads. I say that because the quality designation on your hat is 5X and the liner is a much more detailed liner and probably more expensive to produce. Your Silver Buckle Open Road may actually be quite a bit rarer and more of a short run than the Wilderness. I would also have to assume that since both numbers have the 2001 at the end of the code, that both the Wilderness and Silver Buckle are from the same block set.

 

[Joshbru3]

All of the new models for 2012 Fall and Winter will have been made in Texas. It looks to me that they are not offering quite as many finishes as they used to.

They have severely cut down on the type of finishes which is an absolute shame because Biltmore was one of the only huge Modern hat makers that still had some incredible velours and long hairs. I have owned a modern Biltmore and the felt quality was far superior than anything Hatco is putting out. The felt was dense, finely finished, and didn't use a ridiculous amount of Shellac. I would be willing to bet that the newer stuff from Texas will be on par with the Hatco stuff. I wish I could say otherwise, but that's what I'm thinking will happen. I highly doubt that Biltmore of Canada is shipping all that vintage equipment to Texas, so not only will the process change, the equipment will probably change, and most importantly the people will change. All I have to say is....prove me wrong Biltmore......Prove me wrong.

 

[Joshbru3]

Got my Wilderness from HatsPlus a few weeks ago and must say I to am very pleased with the hat. It's black which was the only color left and would not have been my color choice as I already have loads of black hats including cowboy, bowler and homburg (would prefer Caribou and Fawn) but it is a darn nice hat for a factory hat at that price. The finish/hand of the fur felt is quite good for a factory hat. Trimmings are also quit nice.

Crying shame that there won't be anymore made. Speaking for myself I guess that's what happens when most of my hat deficit spending tends to go to vintage hats.

If what the numerous hat vendors I contacted told me holds true Biltmore may not last much longer as a brand.

Please post some pics if you can. I'm trying to get as many picture of the internals of the hat as possible. Its my feeling that once these hats have sold out, this type of quality from Biltmore Texas just won't be produced.

 

[Walt]

They have severely cut down on the type of finishes which is an absolute shame because Biltmore was one of the only huge Modern hat makers that still had some incredible velours and long hairs. I have owned a modern Biltmore and the felt quality was far superior than anything Hatco is putting out. The felt was dense, finely finished, and didn't use a ridiculous amount of Shellac. I would be willing to bet that the newer stuff from Texas will be on par with the Hatco stuff. I wish I could say otherwise, but that's what I'm thinking will happen. I highly doubt that Biltmore of Canada is shipping all that vintage equipment to Texas, so not only will the process change, the equipment will probably change, and most importantly the people will change. All I have to say is....prove me wrong Biltmore......Prove me wrong.

The hat vendors I've talked to confirm your concerns about the Garland made hats. Apparently they are like Hatco low-end, but not low price, cowboy offerings. Stiff felts and at best average assembly quality. That's why I doubt they will survive long. They shipped their production to a factory that probably doesn't know how to make dress quality hats.

 

[Walt]

Please post some pics if you can. I'm trying to get as many picture of the internals of the hat as possible. Its my feeling that once these hats have sold out, this type of quality from Biltmore Texas just won't be produced.

The hat is identical to others I've seen posted. I haven't checked the hidden tags, but the liner is the wilderness one already shown (rider with trees I think) and the ribbon has a dull brass/dark finish Biltmore logo pin rather than a belt-buckle. I think it says 4x for quality on the sweatband. I've haven't gotten around to bashing it as I'm busy working on other hats so I have it boxed away currently. When I get a chance I'll check it and if there is anything new I can add I will post it.

 

[Walt]

Several vendors I've talked to say they have already given up on carrying anymore Biltmore's and will not carry them once their old stock is gone....they are not happy with the Garland hats.

 

[besdor]

Unfortunately we are one of those vendors. We bought a lot of hats before Biltmore closed up shop and moved to TX. What I have seen and heard since then isnt good. The new factory is a Western factory and is not used to making dress hats .Now we dont know what to do as we are out of many items that Biltmore made best.
What made them special is that they did the fancy finishes well - sude, velour , silk.. BTW towards the end Biltmore had maybe 15 people left in the factory.

 

[danofarlington]

Unfortunately we are one of those vendors. We bought a lot of hats before Biltmore closed up shop and moved to TX. What I have seen and heard since then isnt good. The new factory is a Western factory and is not used to making dress hats .Now we dont know what to do as we are out of many items that Biltmore made best.
What made them special is that they did the fancy finishes well - sude, velour , silk.. BTW towards the end Biltmore had maybe 15 people left in the factory.

So what is your sense of the business outlook on the part of hat manufacturers? Are they bullish on the market, or bearish?

 

[besdor]

The manufacturers that are still in business will survive. All that is left now is basicaly two : Bollman and Hatco for dress hats in the US. Bollman makes mostly wool, and Hatco fur felt. Thats all that is needed. Then there are the imports that are starting to pick up steam.
I think Dorfman expected more from Biltmore but we will see what happens next season.

 

[Hoyt Clagwell]

. I think Dorfman expected more from Biltmore but we will see what happens next season.

Dorfman may have expected more from Biltmore, but I didn't expect much from Dorfman.

 

[danofarlington]

Very interesting. I would love to see competition and heat rising from the sector.

 

[Joshbru3]

Perry's Silver Belly Biltmore Open Road

Biltmore silverbelly OR. This is one of the nicest modern hats (aside from custom) that I have seen.

 

[hatophile]

Has anyone gotten the pinched version of this hat? It looks tapered on the website pics but if it's essentially the same hat?????

 

[RBH]

Has anyone gotten the pinched version of this hat? It looks tapered on the website pics but if it's essentially the same hat?????

The tapered look is the reason I passed on this when my first order was cancelled.
I did end up with the black open crown which I really like.

 

[hatophile]

Of course, you could use Josh's technique to reblock if that's the case...