Thoughts on overwelt edge treatment

[memphislawyer]

I am not a fan of a raw brim edge. My hats have had either a ribbon edge or with my Stetson, an underwelt. Saw pictures of the overwelt brim edge treatment and wondered if it is an affectation I am developing or if it somehow is stlylish/cool/eyecatching/desireable.

Or would you prefer a ribbon edge if you had to do something other than a raw edge.

 

[danofarlington]

Actually I prefer raw edges. But speaking of alternatives, I always considered ribbon edges (especially complementary color ones) to be flashy. If you want somewhat flashy, those are good. I think many don't like the "plain hat" look. Overwelts never did much for me though.

 

[casechopper]

A welted edge give a thicker look to the brim edge. It also makes a more controllable brim edge as the extra thickness resists bending more. In the past I've preferred either a ribbon or welted edge but I'm finding that my raw brim hats are the ones I wear the most. This may be due to the fact that I wear a lot more casual clothing and a raw brim appears more casual.

 

[memphislawyer]

Thicker, hmmm. I dont really mess with the brim. The ribbon edges I was thinking of wear going to be as close to the hat body as I can make it, not contrasting, though I have seen some that had say a blue body, different color ribbon edge and the hat ribbon, either the keeper or a second bow or arrow, tied it all in.

 

[gtdean48]

I prefer underwelts...

 

[DJH]

For me, the best brim edge is the Cavanagh edge and its imitators. Obviously not really possible to get in a new hat (although I believe there might be some hatters with some old Cav edge bodies still around) so a welted edge is the next best.

The closest I've seen to a real Cav edge is Art Fawcett's underwelt. He can make these with no visible stitching and it looks really good.

Having said that, I like raw and bound edge brims too (and some other hatmakers versions of welted brims) - it really depends on the character of the hat.

 

[bowlerman]

When it comes to an edge, I love treatment! Come to think of it, I don't have near enough raw brims. Gotta increase that supply, because, frankly, they're a lot of fun to play with.

I like the felted edges, bound edges, and rolled brims. I don't own any hats with decorative stitching on the brim, but those look neat too. I had a couple of overwelt hats, but never an underwelt. My Falcon Park hat has a very sharp overwelt, and I really like it.

 

[memphislawyer]

Bowlerman, that is the hat I saw that got me to thinking, so I went to Falcon Park Hattery and saw the Julep and Carolinian there and that overwelt seemed so appropriate. Sometimes it is hard to match the ribbon edge to the color of the hat, and I thought, why not roll that stuff over onto the top of the hat so you can see it!

 

[alanfgag]

I've always wanted to put a single twist to the binding ribbon and wear a hat with only one brim surface. Should be a good conversation starter in the saloon.

 

[hatsRme]

I've always wanted to put a single twist to the binding ribbon and wear a hat with only one brim surface. Should be a good conversation starter in the saloon.

If I understand the look, you could call it the "M.C. Escher!?"

 

[Hercule]

It's called a mobius strip.

 

[alanfgag]

Actually, it would probably be easier to make a hat in the form of a klein bottle... but we digress.

 

[Mulceber]

My favorite edge is the cavanagh edge. Given that those aren't really made anymore, my second favorite would be the overwelt. Why? Because I'm rather tall, so an overwelt will resemble a cavanagh edge more closely than an underwelt for the more than half the population who are shorter than me and who thus will thus be more easily able to see the under side of the brim.

 

[Cliffnopus]

I've preferred Arts underwelt. I only have one hat with a bound brim (although I like that too).

Cliff

 

[danofarlington]

It's called a mobius strip.

I wonder what a mobius strip mall would look like.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

For me, the best brim edge is the Cavanagh edge and its imitators. Obviously not really possible to get in a new hat (although I believe there might be some hatters with some old Cav edge bodies still around) so a welted edge is the next best.

The closest I've seen to a real Cav edge is Art Fawcett's underwelt. He can make these with no visible stitching and it looks really good.

Having said that, I like raw and bound edge brims too (and some other hatmakers versions of welted brims) - it really depends on the character of the hat.

I agree with David that the Cav edge is a beautiful thing.

IMO, it is not realistic to consider only seeking that edge in a given color and size given the relative scaricty of quality vintage fedoras (with those features). Additionally, options or variety is something worth seeking when considering adding to a wearable fedora collection.

The above said, I agree that the underwelt by Art Fawcett is truly gorgeous. The pic below shows the detailed handwork. I am truly a short balding guy and the underwelt I enjoy as very few can see under my brim. When looking from above, on this hat, the welt adds eye appeal. Not a raw edge but a clever treatment that leans "raw." My eye has to look carefully to see why it is not raw or it is not bound. That close look adds an appeal, as I thoughtfully consider what I am viewing.

Jeff's (Bowlerman's hat) is truly grand. This overwelt edge has the same appeal as the underwelt in my opinion.

Bound edges, raw, under welted, under welted - all good to me. I like the variety and the changes that the feature make in a hat. Heavens, I would be truly challenged to be a one hat guy!