Those New Yorkers!!!

[Jovan]

I'm going back on my word, but here is just one more example of a Thom Browne suit NOT being worn by him or on the runway. Quite a difference I'd say.

 

[fernande]

I do a great deal of menswear styling- Thom Brown definately has a "hold" on the uber fashion conscious set of males in this town.

Any other NYC person will agree that the men here- (and probably even more-so in London) wear their clothing tightttttt.

There is a common joke with a few girlfriends here that you know something is "wrong" with the williamsburg neighborhood in brooklyn, when all the guys jeans are tighter than the girls.

I did all the styling/press photography for singer James Hunter (whom some people in the forum like)- we used a great deal of vintage Burberry and had them tailored slightly slimmer- but his preference is very specific- early 60s- (like a great deal of the music he does, and loves)

For clients I use great deal of 60s bespoke tailoring/60s Cardins and Yves St Laurent. Lanvin also cut nice slim suiting, about 30-35 years ago. I prefer these suits because the trouser length is not so short. I have used Thom Brown in editorial shoots- I find the look akward. The only time I ever felt it looked right was on a very young model- he looked like a little boy- I think this look, just looks outright ridiculous on a mature man- unless he's going for an utterly "quirky" kind of look- (I'd take "dashing" over "quirky" anyday)


There is a shop called "Freemans Sporting Club" (anyone been there?)
They have a classic barber shop, fancy smancy resturant (great taxidermy/parisian bistro vibe! great bar! good food! but prepare to throw down $$$) and in their little menswear shop-they do a few styles of fine suiting.
What I saw- I liked- They even had one that had a bit of a 1940's cut to it.
but they were close to $2,000.00 a piece. Interesting fabrics though- If anyone is in the city- Its in the lower east side, right off Chrystie, kind of hidden away. Well worth a visit- (get a shave!, they sell Marvis toothpaste- my favorite!)

Anyways-I am utterly fascinated with 30s and 40s menswear fashion. (and even earlier, going into Edwardian stuff) and I use pieces occasionally-I have poured over the mens forums and I have been awed by the detail oriented gents on FL.
I've bought a bunch of old sears catalogs from the late 30s-late 40s, to learn more. I definately still have to get used to the shirt and tie styles of the day.

Anyways- Bravo FL gents!!!- I'm as every bit into your ties, hats and tweed, as you are.
heh

 

[PADDY]

Lounge Style in New York City (pics)

I still remember the shouts at 1am in the morning of, "WHO do you think you guys are? Elliot Ness or Al Capone?!!" (Maybe this chap had recently been watching the Untouchables...who can say?[huh] ).

But certainly whenever I was out at the Flatiron with the 'gang' the fact that you are wearing a shirt and tie, let alone a 1939 DB suit and fedora, drew 'that bit more' attention. Hopefully, it was stylish attention!!

Personally speaking (and I can only speak for my own tastes), the thin legged pants just don't do it for me, and just wouldn't suit either my taste or my body shape. As for trousers/pants that stop at the ankle...a BIG faux pas in my book, but it certainly gets attention, and maybe that's the fashion designers' idea in the end, to grab attention by such quirky details.

Can I quickly NAME DROP? In the first photo, my claim to fame (my only one, how sad!) is that I'm sharing the sidewalk with the famous Ray from Satoralist fame!! Yay!!!

(click the 'small' photos below and they will magically grow bigger!!)

 

[CharlesB]

hey paddy, you look the spitting image of Colin Hay from Men at Work.

 

[fernande]

I still remember the shouts at 1am in the morning of, "WHO do you think you guys are? Elliot Ness or Al Capone?!!" (Maybe this chap had recently been watching the Untouchables...who can say?[huh] ).

Personally speaking (and I can only speak for my own tastes), the thin legged pants just don't do it for me, and just wouldn't suit either my taste or my body shape. As for trousers/pants that stop at the ankle...a BIG faux pas in my book, but it certainly gets attention, and maybe that's the fashion designers' idea in the end, to grab attention by such quirky details.

Can I quickly NAME DROP? In the first photo, my claim to fame (my only one, how sad!) is that I'm sharing the sidewalk with the famous Ray from Satoralist fame!! Yay!!!

Ray is great- I find the Satoralist very inspiring- Its always fun when I see someone I know or someone I've seen on the street-, that really has something interesting going on- (golden era styled, or not) The only thing that bugs me, is I wish he would profile people of different sizes.
Maybe he has- but it seems every time I log on and check his blog, its the skinny minnie parade.

This is more my complaint with the shots of women than the men-Fashion is not just for size 2 people. The only time I ever got a little irked with his writings, is a shot (gee I can't remember when it was from) but it was of a woman, a "gallerina" in the meatpaking district- From the looks of it- she was a size 8, maybe- a very attractive lady, with a body (dare I say t&a?) She had a Veronica Lake thing going on- And although he was complimenting her outfit, he made a point to say something to the matter of "I am impressed at how, even though bigger, she worked the look well" That isn't a direct quote, but how I perceived it, (and yes, I could perhaps have perceived it wrong) is he was saying "She's doing well, for being one of those bigger girls"- which was ridiculous. though it doesn't surprise me, because I deal with that sort of thinking every day.
In other city in America, she'd be smaller or "normal"-
NYC is nuts sometimes.

I know all too well, because I'm part of the "machine" that thinner ladies often do-showcase the clothes better (because models are supposed to be human coat hangers- in couture- because of the complex and often over the top nature of the gowns- they are frighteningly skinny (about two sizes smaller than normal already looking anorexic "runway" models) so its about the clothes- not the girl- unless of course- its the victoria secret fashion show and you're... Giselle.)
but moving on- if this Blog is supposed to be about "personal style"- I see tons of girls and guys on the street in NYC who are "larger than life"- and look fantastic. where's the camera?!
I know its his aesthetic, and perhaps he favors thin people, and its his blog, so who am I to say, but, you know, it would be nice to see a fabulous size 18 gal, once. They are out there. The part that I find extremely weird, is that most of the behind the scenes people- who put all of this together- the stylists, the photographers, the edtiors, are usually normal to even more bodacious people. (look at Alber Ebaz- the designer for Lanvin- He has to be a 48)
fashion is aspirational to an extent, so perhaps everyone wishes they had not reached for that jelly donut-?! not me! I think Mamie Van Doren (back in the day) is the ideal body type!

I also agree with Paddy about the trouser style. It doesn't work on more men than it does- I made that comment about williamsburg, brooklyn, I actually feel sorry for some of the more "rocker" type guys- who perhaps have had too many beers, and due to their skin tight jean choices- have what we call "muffin tops"- Often when a client requests my tailor to taper the trousers. (because he thinks its the "hot thing") But if he's not a slim fellow, I try to gently suggest a fuller leg. As any guy that has a little bit of a belly or is more stocky built- he will look like a sausage bursting, and I don't think he wants that, or it will attract the ladies (the fellows, if you swing that way) Unfortunately most guys are not as savvy and self assured in their personal style, to dress as well as the fellas here on FL!!!

I only wish! I've tried to get a couple clients to do double breasted. I have an amazing vintage Aquascutum pinsripe suit- It needs a home.
no one will go for it...... yet. I'm going to keep trying.!!

 

[Jovan]

What size is it? You have a customer here if it's a 39 or 40.

 

[fernande]

Hey Fellas, I got all your messages. In my double breasted land, I have two really swank ones, and a Pierre Cardin, which feels to me to be cashmere wool. (in charcoal grey with a subtle wider pinstripe?)

I am running to an appointment, but I shall measure. I've taken some pictures of my husband in the smaller one (he's a size 36 chest) so I know the Cardin is small.

The Aquascutum is around 40-42 I think, I will measure and confirm, and I'll try to take some pics.

Although you might not have seen the posts because they were in the ladies area (powder room and such) I'm finishing up my own line of men and women's vintage reproduction shoes. Fine italian shoes, and I'd like to think, some of the best that will be available- so beautiful, and its taking me forever. Somehow I was classified as a "vendor" along the way.
(even though my shoes won't hit stores till this fall/winter )

My men's shoes are still in design phase and I've been studying and doing prototypes. I would love to see fav shoe styles and learn more from all of you, era wise- especially since I just go by what I think looks "cool"-and I'd like to offer some very specific styles that are sadly missed in many brands. I work a great deal with fine newer menswear, but almost always I will add a vintage accessory to the mix- whether it is a Borsalino or tie clip, etc.

I do tons of men's image consultation- mostly for actors and musicians, most of the clients, I can't really say who they are- but James Hunter is a friend, and he looks so great, I know he wouldn't mind me saying we worked together exclusively for all his "people gonna talk" stuff. I'm specifically thrilled about his outfit he wore to the grammys. kind of sharkskin material-, super sharp suit! he looked fab.

But, In reference to the Double Breasted- I do have lots of beautiful suits in my arsenal. Some tend to be more in the 50s 60s 70s area, but are all fine, I want to learn more about 40s and 30s, as I probably have picked up these items- found them "cool" but not realized how old they were.

As long as I won't get in hot water with anyone, I'll post lots of men's looks and I'd love for comments.

I have quite a crazy collection of silk and rayon scarves, tootal scarves, etc.
I think one in particular would be appealing to the fellas here, its Rayon, from the 40s and has Skiers and winter snowflakes on it !!!
(with fringe)
When would this have been worn? At night? (since its rayon?)
love to hear!

Best

Jennifer
(fern)

 

[CharlesB]

Hey Fellas, I got all your messages. In my double breasted land, I have two really swank ones, and a Pierre Cardin, which feels to me to be cashmere wool. (in charcoal grey with a subtle wider pinstripe?)

I am running to an appointment, but I shall measure. I've taken some pictures of my husband in the smaller one (he's a size 36 chest) so I know the Cardin is small.

The Aquascutum is around 40-42 I think, I will measure and confirm, and I'll try to take some pics.

Although you might not have seen the posts because they were in the ladies area (powder room and such) I'm finishing up my own line of men and women's vintage reproduction shoes. Fine italian shoes, and I'd like to think, some of the best that will be available- so beautiful, and its taking me forever. Somehow I was classified as a "vendor" along the way.
(even though my shoes won't hit stores till this fall/winter )

My men's shoes are still in design phase and I've been studying and doing prototypes. I would love to see fav shoe styles and learn more from all of you, era wise- especially since I just go by what I think looks "cool"-and I'd like to offer some very specific styles that are sadly missed in many brands. I work a great deal with fine newer menswear, but almost always I will add a vintage accessory to the mix- whether it is a Borsalino or tie clip, etc.

I do tons of men's image consultation- mostly for actors and musicians, most of the clients, I can't really say who they are- but James Hunter is a friend, and he looks so great, I know he wouldn't mind me saying we worked together exclusively for all his "people gonna talk" stuff. I'm specifically thrilled about his outfit he wore to the grammys. kind of sharkskin material-, super sharp suit! he looked fab.

But, In reference to the Double Breasted- I do have lots of beautiful suits in my arsenal. Some tend to be more in the 50s 60s 70s area, but are all fine, I want to learn more about 40s and 30s, as I probably have picked up these items- found them "cool" but not realized how old they were.

As long as I won't get in hot water with anyone, I'll post lots of men's looks and I'd love for comments.

I have quite a crazy collection of silk and rayon scarves, tootal scarves, etc.
I think one in particular would be appealing to the fellas here, its Rayon, from the 40s and has Skiers and winter snowflakes on it !!!
(with fringe)
When would this have been worn? At night? (since its rayon?)
love to hear!

Best

Jennifer
(fern)

Hey, Im gonna be back in the states in a few months. Did a stint in marketting during undergrad, and Ive a background in history etc. That and my love of old style and what not, if you want I'd be more than happy to shoot up for a day and take a gander at your stuff and if you want bounce ideas off with. As someone thats run a business before, I know sometimes feedback cna be the best thing to do

 

[fernande]

Here is a shot of the Pierre Cardin double breasted. Its definately from the 70's, I can just tell by the label (I have a huge amount of 60's cardin paris, that I treasure) But I think its really nice- especially since its really gorgeous cashmere wool, in a charcoal gray, a very perfect winter suit.
Its pretty great, because its in a men's Small 36 chest 30 waist)
I had to lighten the photos ever so slightly to show the detail- the most accurate shot of color and fabric is the last picture with the jacket open.


here it is-

I love this jacket- Its striped Linen- I love that its a creme/off white with the blue-
I like the shell/pearl effect buttons as well.

The 60s/mad men/thom browne look is definately the most popular with the fellas I know- (and my clients)
stuff like this-

my husband is actually wearing super slim black corduroy trousers.

I like this plaid 3 button as well- it was single needle tailored and is unlined.

Heres another slim one-

here's a nice Lanvin Paris mixed with a 1930's tie.

All these suits are modeled by my husband- they were not tailored to fit him, I just take lots of stock photographs for clients to give them a general idea of a cut, color , style etc. He's a good sport- its very useful though when I'm working with clients worldwide-

I'll have to post some of my husband's tailored suits/jackets in another thread.
I've definately been inspired by some of the 30's inspired Linens I've seen- especially Mr. Rover's suit he had made in Hong Kong.

The Aquascutum I have previously mentioned- is at my office. This one is definately more "Al Capone". I'll try to grab it and snap some shots.
a classic navy pinstripe. I will upload as soon as I can- I think this one will be popular with the FL fellas.

I mix eras a great deal- I'll pair a new Dior Homme suit with a Victorian Cravat.....Oh and he's wearing a modern super slim cut gucci- tuxedo shirt with huge exaggerated french cuffs. in all honesty, it was fresh from the drycleaners and I liked the texture..

 

[CharlesB]

I love that last one. I wonder if itd fit on a sized 34 persons frame...oh bugger

 

[belmondo]

All these suits are modeled by my husband- they were not tailored to fit him, I just take lots of stock photographs for clients to give them a general idea of a cut, color , style etc. He's a good sport- its very useful though when I'm working with clients worldwide-

I'll have to post some of my husband's tailored suits/jackets in another thread.
I've definately been inspired by some of the 30's inspired Linens I've seen- especially Mr. Rover's suit he had made in Hong Kong.

The Aquascutum I have previously mentioned- is at my office. This one is definately more "Al Capone". I'll try to grab it and snap some shots.
a classic navy pinstripe. I will upload as soon as I can- I think this one will be popular with the FL fellas.

I mix eras a great deal- I'll pair a new Dior Homme suit with a Victorian Cravat.....Oh and he's wearing a modern super slim cut gucci- tuxedo shirt with huge exaggerated french cuffs. in all honesty, it was fresh from the drycleaners and I liked the texture..

Those suits look really cool. The one you call a 60s 3-button actually has the lapel shape of a 30s suit, but that looks really cool when paired with the jean-cut trousers.

your husband looks really really familiar.

 

[fernande]

Those suits look really cool. The one you call a 60s 3-button actually has the lapel shape of a 30s suit, but that looks really cool when paired with the jean-cut trousers.

your husband looks really really familiar.

Maybe it is 1930s! That wouldn't surprise me- It bore no label whatsoever- I'm by no means an expert on men's vintage, the piece *did* seem much older, just from the construction details- Hard to explain- really delicate.

I usually sell that are 50s, 60s, mod-hardy amies/thom browne styled stuff, The look fit in with my aesthetic. Anyways- some stylish bloke in london, bought it from me and is enjoying it now.


My husband is a rock n roller- you might have seen his mug in a music mag or on mtv or something. But his music is definately not "golden era".


Charles B- I have lots of 34's- most of my clientele are very fashion conscious, rocker/mod types. they tend to like their looks super slim!

Thanks for the compliments guys, I had fun taking the pictures. I like photography.

 

[Jovan]

Mrs. Fernande, have you gotten my PM yet?

 

[J.S.Udontknowme]

More Thom Browne

Here's a page out of the USA WEEKEND insert that came in today's paper.

 

[Jerekson]

I love that tie.