Things You Learn as an Old Car Driver

[Stanley Doble]

Out here, where it is quite hilly (downright mountainous, once you get more than a few miles out of town), and where it has been known to rain on occasion, vacuum wipers will have you affixing a plastic Virgin Mary statuette to the dashboard. Pulling those long uphills in a downpour, when the wipers won't flap at all, is a wholly faith-based undertaking.

The better (more expensive) cars had a vacuum pump built into the fuel pump for such occasions. The wipers worked the same up hill or down. The pump was available for cheaper cars as an option. The last one I installed was on a 59 Ford six cylinder pickup truck, it cost $56 when the standard pump was $22. Needless to say this was a while ago.

You can also get a 12 volt electrical pump. Either of these is easier and cheaper than changing the wipers to electric.

Or you can just buy a Chrysler product, they started using electric wipers in 1940. Inferior makes like Cadillac and American Motors kept the vacuum wipers into the late 50s and early 60s.

 

[tonyb]

Good to know that, Doble.

Back when such things as vacuum wipers that wouldn't work when the engine was under heavy load were of immediate concern to me, paying that kind of scratch to accessorize a car that I paid maybe twice that for would have seemed a real extravagance. Those little plastic statuettes were a lot cheaper.

 

[Michaelson]

'Manual choke' is not just putting your hands around the neck of the person who pulled into that spot you were waiting for.

Best story I ever read about a manul choke was in a 1955 Hot Rod mag letters to the editor. A lady took her new Ford back to her dealer telling him the car started fine, but ran rough after pulling out and never got over 35 mph. He said 'let's take it for a test drive'. They got in the car, where she immediately pulled the manual choke out, then hung her purse from the handle. She said, 'That new purse hanger feature is the best thing Ford has ever come out with yet. I just wish this car ran better.' (grins) Regards! Michaelson

 

[Michaelson]

After driving a 50 Plymouth every day for 8 years to work, I can say it's a love/hate relationship, that's for sure. Brake lights were not electric switches at the base of the brake pedal, but are actualy in the brake line. When the pressure starts rising from the pressure of the brake being applied, it pushes a plunger upward to make an electrical contact TO an electric switch that then lights the rear tail lights. All well and good when everyone is doing 45 mph and driving the same kind of vehicle.....but most folks are tailgating you, trying to figure out what your diriving, and too close to notice you're already slowing down before your lights come on.
Driving at night or at dusk has always been a troublesome and sometimes terrifying affair, as I've had more near misses of folks almost plowing through me because they weren't paying any attention....as well as the brake lights coming on after the fact.
Just the design of the car, and not unusual for the time period.....but unknown to today's drivers.
It's just ONE of the MANY things you take for granted and have to factor into driving these monsters in todays traffic.
Regards! Michaelson

 

[Story]

Seems like it belongs here -
http://youtu.be/nq2jY1trxqg

 

[Stanley Doble]

Those brake light switches don't last forever. A new one should be less sticky. Go to the NAPA store. If they look at you funny when you ask for a 1950 Plymouth part, ask for a brake light switch for a 1976 VW beetle, they are the same.

 

[LizzieMaine]

After a hundred-mile run yesterday in the Plodge, I have learned that there are a great many people on the road today who know how to operate a motor vehicle, but have no idea at all of how to drive.

I had to go thru a couple of those brake light switches to find one that worked right -- the new ones are Chinese-made crap, and manufacturing standards are far below those set by Mr. Chrysler. And if you have one of those Mopars with one brake light centered in the middle of the trunk lid, it's a good idea to wire up your taillights to act as brakelights as well -- otherwise you'll have a constant stream of idiots yelling at you that "your brake lights are out!"

 

[Atticus Finch]

Best story I ever read about a manul choke was in a 1955 Hot Rod mag letters to the editor. A lady took her new Ford back to her dealer telling him the car started fine, but ran rough after pulling out and never got over 35 mph. He said 'let's take it for a test drive'. They got in the car, where she immediately pulled the manual choke out, then hung her purse from the handle. She said, 'That new purse hanger feature is the best thing Ford has ever come out with yet. I just wish this car ran better.' (grins) Regards! Michaelson

Back in the early sixties my father ran an Esso service station in Beaufort. In those days, stations actually offered repair service for automobiles as well as gas and oil. One day, a local gentleman called my father and explained that he was in the back yard changing the points in his old Dodge. He wanted to know if my father could loan him a feeler gauge. Dad told the gentleman to temporally set the points with a dime and then drive the car over to the station. Dad would properly set the points and tune the car at no charge.

An hour passed before the man finally appeared…but on foot. He told my father that the Dodge wouldn’t start. Wouldn’t hit a lick. Dad asked him a few questions trying to get to the source of the problem. Had he replaced the distributor cap properly? Had he accidently loosened the distributor so as to alter the timing? Had he set the points using a dime?

The man thought for a moment and answered that he had set the points, but he didn’t have a dime…so he’d used two nickels instead.

AF

 

[Tomasso]

^ lol

 

[GHT]

An hour passed before the man finally appeared…but on foot. He told my father that the Dodge wouldn’t start. Wouldn’t hit a lick. Dad asked him a few questions trying to get to the source of the problem. Had he replaced the distributor cap properly? Had he accidently loosened the distributor so as to alter the timing? Had he set the points using a dime?
The man thought for a moment and answered that he had set the points, but he didn’t have a dime…so he’d used two nickels instead.

The reminisce that this evoked. Back in the seventies, at the start of the death of our nationised car company: British Leyland, we had one of their new cars. Every corner you went round a bend or corner, it resulted in a "CLUNK." No matter whether it was left or right:"CLUNK," it went. The car went back so many times, we were on first name terms with all the garage service mechanics. About the umpteenth time of returning it, the service manager, gave the young apprentice the task of taking it out for a test drive. The lad, duly covered the seat with one of those plastic seat covers, got into the car, remembered that smoking in a customer's car was forbidden, (this was the 1970's) pulled out the ash tray, only to discover a coin that would go CLUNK as he went round a bend.

Later the service manager sheepishly admitted that they had stripped the car down to it's knickers: Twice. In an attempt to find and solve the problem. We are both non smokers, how were we to know?

 

[tonyb]

... if you have one of those Mopars with one brake light centered in the middle of the trunk lid, it's a good idea to wire up your taillights to act as brakelights as well -- otherwise you'll have a constant stream of idiots yelling at you that "your brake lights are out!"

I'm tempted to install a third brake light in my Triumph Spitfire Mk II (licensed as a '67, but any Spitfire nut will tell you it's really a '66), because not only are the two little taillight units kinda wimpy, they're also set quite low. I'm thinkin' about installing the third one on the roll bar, where it might be seen from more than 100 feet away.

 

[p51]

Driving my 1944 Willys Jeep, I make a point of avoiding heavily-travelled roads because the over vehicle color tends to blend in, and the signal lights are 6V. They really don't look all that bright, and there's only one, directly under the jerry can holder on the driver side. The housing on the passenger side only holds the blackout lights.
If I'm going to one of the two annual local car shows I take the Jeep to, I usually go there in the morning with the top up, as it has the wartime warning stencilled into the back of it, which alerts other drivers that I'm not gonna speed up:

 

[1930artdeco]

My Model A has a stock tail light on the left fender and is 6V. After I put a glass bezel on it, it lit up fairly well but not great. So I spliced in another brake light and fastened it to the spare tire for two, count em two brake lights. They both light up quite well together and people are used to seeing the 'third' brake light there. I have had people comment on how bright it is so I will keep it, I know it is not stock but hey if it keeps some moron from hitting me...

Mike

 

[GHT]

I used to be the friendly pump attendant who filled your tank, washed your windows, checked your oil, and pumped up your tires. I even wore a clean blue shirt, a black leather bow tie and a cap. I was 13 years old when I had my first gas station job.

Stanley, I worry about your name.

 

[Stanley Doble]

After a hundred-mile run yesterday in the Plodge, I have learned that there are a great many people on the road today who know how to operate a motor vehicle, but have no idea at all of how to drive.

I had to go thru a couple of those brake light switches to find one that worked right -- the new ones are Chinese-made crap, and manufacturing standards are far below those set by Mr. Chrysler. And if you have one of those Mopars with one brake light centered in the middle of the trunk lid, it's a good idea to wire up your taillights to act as brakelights as well -- otherwise you'll have a constant stream of idiots yelling at you that "your brake lights are out!"

I'm pleased that you are finally having some nice drives in the Plodge. Are the fall colors out in Maine already? How is she performing?

 

[LizzieMaine]

I'm pleased that you are finally having some nice drives in the Plodge. Are the fall colors out in Maine already? How is she performing?

It's running great -- drove up Route 17 this week to Augusta and back, and the leaves are just about at peak color right now. A beautiful drive -- and only got held up in a construction delay twice, which for this time of year is really something.

The brakes have also settled in nicely -- when I took it up to the garage that misadjusted the master-cylinder piston and caused my problems, and showed them the results, they were very apologetic, and knocked $300 off my bill.

I think -- hope -- all the bugs have finally been shaken out and now I can get down to fine-tuning. Next spring I'm going to get the rear springs done to get rid of the squeaks, and possibly do some more front end work, although everything seems to be very solid there. And there's a bit of body work to be done once the driving season is over -- I've got a rust hole about the size of a dime just under one of the back door hinges, and want to get it patched before it spreads.

 

[dennisb]

Ahhh memories..........

 

[HeyMoe]

6v headlights make driving at night......interesting.

 

[HeyMoe]

The brakes have also settled in nicely -- when I took it up to the garage that misadjusted the master-cylinder piston and caused my problems, and showed them the results, they were very apologetic, and knocked $300 off my bill.

Lizzie - you would not believe the problems I had with the dodge and the master cylinder.....brakes seem to have finally settled in now but what a royal pain in the 4th point of contact it was getting those things working. It took my buddy who is a mechanic 10+ hours to get those things figured out.

 

[LizzieMaine]

One thing I learned is that the piston included in modern rebuild kits is often just a fraction of a millimeter too long, which can lead to all sorts of issues with the partial covering of the relief port. When rebuilding a 37-41 Mopar master, *always* use a NOS brass piston, *not* the one enclosed in the rebuild kit. And when having any brake work done at all, *always* leave a written note for the mechanic *not* to tamper with the MC piston rod. They'll always be tempted to fiddle with it to "get a higher pedal" and they'll always screw it up.