They just don't compare

[iammatt]

Horizontal peaks on double breasteds will always look good. :eusa_clap

They look anachronistic to me. Upswept lapels existed in the '30s and the exist today. It is a more classic style.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I remember you saying your tailor in New York takes a long long time.
Was it Buscolosi or Logsdale?

 

[Jovan]

They look anachronistic to me. Upswept lapels existed in the '30s and the exist today. It is a more classic style.

I was not attempting to debate how classic they are, merely saying that they will always look good in my view. Some '20s suits that were single breasted had floor level peaks and they looked pretty good too. [huh]

 

[iammatt]

I was not attempting to debate how classic they are, merely saying that they will always look good in my view. Some '20s suits that were single breasted had floor level peaks and they looked pretty good too. [huh]

and I was simply stating my opinion. This whole time I thought the Fedora Lounge was a discussion board .

 

[manton]

I don't like floor level peak. One tailor made a DB suit for me and made it with floor level peak against my express wishes. I had him tighten the collar so that the lapels would rake up a bit. Problem was, that made the waist buttonhole roll past the waist button. So a suit that was supposed to be 6x2 is really more of a 6x1.

You can see it tugging at the button:

Here it is worn "Kent style":

As to the wrap, again, I just don't want it any wider on me than that blue coat. It is perfect to my eye. I don't mind the slightly narrower wrap of the brown flannel, and I love the coat in other respects, but the central "square" of the blue coat is perfectly proportioned for me. At least I think so.

 

[Mr. Rover]

I don't like floor level peak. One tailor made a DB suit for me and made it with floor level peak against my express wishes. I had him tighten the collar so that the lapels would rake up a bit. Problem was, that made the waist buttonhole roll past the waist button. So a suit that was supposed to be 6x2 is really more of a 6x1.

You can see it tugging at the button:

Here it is worn "Kent style":

As to the wrap, again, I just don't want it any wider on me than that blue coat. It is perfect to my eye. I don't mind the slightly narrower wrap of the brown flannel, and I love the coat in other respects, but the central "square" of the blue coat is perfectly proportioned for me. At least I think so.

I like it- can you show a full length picture to see the jacket length proportion?

 

[Vardeman Sneed]

Who is the woman in this photo?

 

[manton]

I like it- can you show a full length picture to see the jacket length proportion?

Don't have one, sorry. Next time I wear it, if I remember, I will take one.

That is the most vinatgey looking suit I own. The cloth really is vintage, woven in the '50s or '60s but never made up. I got, so far as I know, the very last available length.

 

[iammatt]

The cloth really is vintage, woven in the '50s or '60s but never made up.

Along those lines, this may be interesting. It was made last year from 1950s flannel.

 

[manton]

So I assume you would never wear a three piece suit, but you like it the sweater vest?

Me, I do both.

 

[iammatt]

So I assume you would never wear a three piece suit, but you like it the sweater vest?

Me, I do both.

I might, but I would need pants with a slightly higher rise so that the vest didn't need to be so long. I prefer sweater vests because I like it, the contrast. I used to have a few odd vests I picked up at Wilkes, but I rarely wore them.

 

[manton]

To do a 3-piece right, you need brace trousers. Sorry to break it to you.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I don't like floor level peak. One tailor made a DB suit for me and made it with floor level peak against my express wishes. I had him tighten the collar so that the lapels would rake up a bit. Problem was, that made the waist buttonhole roll past the waist button. So a suit that was supposed to be 6x2 is really more of a 6x1.

You can see it tugging at the button:

Here it is worn "Kent style":

As to the wrap, again, I just don't want it any wider on me than that blue coat. It is perfect to my eye. I don't mind the slightly narrower wrap of the brown flannel, and I love the coat in other respects, but the central "square" of the blue coat is perfectly proportioned for me. At least I think so.

Oh my god you look like a Truman styled fire plug -- just kidding.

I think it looks great. The notches are high and I think that draws the lapel peaks and the eye much higher than it needs to be giving you an extra lengthened look. I just don't think you being tall as you are need any extra lengthening in your look.

I love the button stance, and I Think this fabric has a bit more panache. As said above... you need a person to take some pics from a distance so we can see the full trouser and jacket combo.... Just to see the harmony of how they work together.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Along those lines, this may be interesting. It was made last year from 1950s flannel.

Looks pretty cool... I've never been a fan of the three button top being rolled out but I like the look on you... must have needed the 50's material to make me appreciate it.

Hope this doesn't sound wrong... I even like the look of the fly on the trousers.

 

[manton]

this fabric has a bit more panache.

Sure, but I wouldn't want a closetful of things like that. A solid blue DB is a dinner party staple, in addition to being a good business suit.

 

[iammatt]

must have needed the 50's material to make me appreciate it.

It's funny. My tailor had an entire bolt of this fabric, and found it hard to sell. He said that most people looking for vintage fabric only wanted British goods, and since this was Italian, people passed. The fabric itself is as nice and sturdy as I have ever seen, but it is slightly warm for California, even in the winter.

 

[Jovan]

and I was simply stating my opinion. This whole time I thought the Fedora Lounge was a discussion board .

Apologies. The way I said that was not gentlemanly.

Let me rephrase: I think either look fine, but the floor level gives more of a widening effect. I think Manton could really rock that style, but he's got his own sense of aesthetics and I respect it.

Here's a nice '30s repro with upswept peaks. I love the belly in the lapel.

 

[iammatt]

Let me rephrase: I think either look fine, but the floor level gives more of a widening effect. I think Manton could really rock that style, but he's got his own sense of aesthetics and I respect it.

I agree, and since I think of most things in relation to my own build, that is why I don't like them. My shoulders are already to wide and square for something like that effect to be positive.

On the other hand, I do like them on SB peak lapels, even though SBPL is not a style I would wear myself.

 

[manton]

I don't like floor level peak on anyone. To me it looks too vintagey, in a bad way, costume, throwback, etc.

Plus, it disrupts the harmony of the DB, which I think looks better when the only lines that bisect the coat on the horizontal are the pockets. The odd angles of the lapels and shirt collar so close together are part of what make DB coats so nice.

 

[metropd]

I don't like floor level peak. One tailor made a DB suit for me and made it with floor level peak against my express wishes. I had him tighten the collar so that the lapels would rake up a bit. Problem was, that made the waist buttonhole roll past the waist button. So a suit that was supposed to be 6x2 is really more of a 6x1.

You can see it tugging at the button:

Here it is worn "Kent style":

As to the wrap, again, I just don't want it any wider on me than that blue coat. It is perfect to my eye. I don't mind the slightly narrower wrap of the brown flannel, and I love the coat in other respects, but the central "square" of the blue coat is perfectly proportioned for me. At least I think so.

I think the verticalness of your peak is perfect. As always you wear Art! You are most likley the best dressed gentlemen on Style Forum and the Fedora Lounge in my opinion.