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The Vintage Tailoring Thread

Claudio

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377
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Italian living in Spain
Do any of you guys know if it's somehow possible to make the rise on a pair of trousers higher? I recently got a nice 20s suit, with two pair of trousers, that fits quite well. Except for the fact that it was clearly made for someone with a shorter torso than me; there's about a .5-1" gap between the trouser waistline and the waistcoat. :(

nightmare - cannot be done IMO considering you want it to *look* good and not just be the right rise. I think its sometimes easy to 'loose the plot' whilst looking for that perfect 'era look' but at the same time having an ill fitting garment. I'm all for alterating as much as possible a vintage garment to suit your size but it needs an overall esthetic ballance in the end. There are some details (like the trouser rise) that are just too tricky to deal with and will no doubt look odd if at all accomplished.

My 2 pence worth
 

Claudio

Vendor
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377
Location
Italian living in Spain
Indeed outstanding work HBK. I personally think that your choice for a smaller angle of the gorg is a better option as the 40's jacket one is massive and would be too wide and deep on your jackets lapel.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
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6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
Please do! I'd be especially interested to see some pictures of the back too. The "in progress" pictures you posted of the shoulders looked really cool.

_1020918_zps8f3f28bb.jpg


more shots on the blog: http://laurencejohn.blogspot.co.uk/
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
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5,456
Location
London, UK
I have said this over and over the boy has a gift!

For any of you that haven't yet had a detailed look at HBK's double breasted, 1920s style pinstripe suit, I would recommend looking at his blog. It's probably the most interesting and well-realised piece of home tailoring that i have ever seen on the lounge.
 

Papperskatt

Practically Family
Messages
506
Location
Sweden
For any of you that haven't yet had a detailed look at HBK's double breasted, 1920s style pinstripe suit, I would recommend looking at his blog. It's probably the most interesting and well-realised piece of home tailoring that i have ever seen on the lounge.

It is simply amazing.
 

Broccoli

One of the Regulars
Messages
264
Location
Sweden
For any of you that haven't yet had a detailed look at HBK's double breasted, 1920s style pinstripe suit, I would recommend looking at his blog. It's probably the most interesting and well-realised piece of home tailoring that i have ever seen on the lounge.

It instantly became one of my favourite suits that I've ever seen, it is cut just in the ways I like it.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
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6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
does anyone know what happens on the outer side of the pocket with this type of pleat-front-into-pocket-welt arrangement ?

i'm assuming there must be a visible slash somewhere emerging from the pocket on the outer side, which we can't see ?

FW_21_pleat_front_a_zpsdfcf8ca3.jpeg


FW_21_pleat_front_b_zpsb32ac1ff.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Messages
13,672
Location
down south
It's impossible to tell from an illustration, of course, but perhaps the pleats are simply a separate piece of fabric trim sewn onto the front, like the pleats on a guayabera style shirt. I'm no tailor, but just a thought. This sort of "quick and dirty" method would certainly not seem out of sorts on a child's garment.

That jacket you made recently with the 20s style lapels looks fantastic, by the way. This is the sort of attention to detail that keeps me looking at these sort of threads. I appreciate what you guys are doing.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
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6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
dh66, thanks !

i'm pretty sure these are inverse pleats which fold inward. here's something similar, but not identical:

Schermafbeelding2014-09-24om215645_zps50c34127.png


... these are trapped beneath the belt.

Norfolk straps are easier... you can just sew them onto the outside as you suggest.
 

Qirrel

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
I think the area between the pleat, the underarm dart, the pocket and the armhole would be cut as a separate piece. That way there won't be any seam running from the pocket to the sideseam.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
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6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
Q, that would seem to be the only way to avoid that seam. thanks !

p.s. i don't suppose you've got any vintage patterns of something similar (the pleats i mean, not the whole jacket ) ?
 

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