The Vintage Tailoring Thread

[DamianM]

That's a friends suit you pictured their.

Most of the time you found them to be just like pictured, as you can see it also has 3 pin tucks right bellow the chest, something not found or even mentioned in catalogs.
Some had Rah rah suit details as well in 1926!
They also have "tuxedo" details as the matching vest was in a low u shape.

The tame jazz suit also has a Jazz Bow pictured, a tiny tiny little clip on bow.

My point being that not all early 20s suits are Jazz suits as not all 40s suits are Zoot suits. They are very specific.

 

[herringbonekid]

is that you in the jazz suit Damian ?

 

[DamianM]

is that you in the jazz suit Damian ?

Sadly no. Its a 38 -40 R and Im a 42R so it doesn't fit.
Its the owner of the suit .

 

[Barmey]

That is a pretty cool suit. The jazziest orginal I've seen in rather a while.

 

[scotrace]

From my area, still tailoring at 83:

http://www.tuscbargainhunter.com/article/20140815/FEATURES/708159987/-1/tbh

 

[herringbonekid]

i've been mulling over whether patch pockets are suitable with pin or chalk-stripe flannel. obviously, patch pocket - belt back jackets tended to be made out of the 'sportier' fabrics, but i found a couple of examples of striped flannel (or maybe worsted in the 20s photo below) with patch pockets. does anyone have any more examples, or any thoughts on the matter ?

 

[Fastuni]

Pinstriped DB sportcoats with patch pockets - worn with solid flannels as a summer combination - are to be found in late 30's German tailoring publications.

(Hat tip to Floey for the scan.)

What I think of it? I wouldn't reject a nice specimen, but I don't think it is an ideal combination.

 

[Metatron]

What I think of it? I wouldn't reject a nice specimen, but I don't think it is an ideal combination.

My thoughts exactly.

 

[Fastuni]

A nice example - which I would wear without hesistation - is this one worn by German actor Ernst Wilhelm Borchert in 1946.

The trick is the fuzzier sporty fabric and lighter color.

A smooth striped navy worsted or flannel would have looked inappropriate for this suit.

 

[herringbonekid]

The trick is the fuzzier sporty fabric and lighter color.

you read my mind.

if the fabric is a smoother finish worsted, or a very stark chalkstripe flannel, then no.

unfortunately my vintage fabric supply is starting to look like a sea of chalkstripe flannel. only a couple of sporty ones left.

 

[Barmey]

I've been thinking about this question too. I think it really is dependent on the character of each cloth, boldness of the stripe, colour, width of the pattern. But I think it patches can really work in lots of cloth most traditionalist would consider wrong.

Nothing wrong with a sea of striped flannel. Maybe you need to practice your jetted and welted pockets

 

[herringbonekid]

Nothing wrong with a sea of striped flannel. Maybe you need to practice your jetted and welted pockets

but i like patch pockets and belted backs !!! wah !!!! :Cry:

 

[Barmey]

but i like patch pockets and belted backs !!! wah !!!! :Cry:

ahaha I've change my mind, not adverse to a fancy back on a stripe cloth anymore. Pockets are still a bit contentious for me though.

 

[Barmey]

Work on Savile Row in the week. My mums dining room will suffice for the weekends. Already had two fittings. Next step... The facing!

 

[herringbonekid]

looking great Barmey !

did you not fancy any pleats on the pockets (like the 'Beltsac' you referenced.... http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?76600-Inspiration&p=1766681&viewfull=1#post1766681) ?

 

[Barmey]

looking great Barmey !

did you not fancy any pleats on the pockets (like the 'Beltsac' you referenced.... http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?76600-Inspiration&p=1766681&viewfull=1#post1766681) ?

I'm keeping the pockets plain for this one. I still intend for the belt to come right to the front dart though. Exicted to get it to that stage as I think its such a cool feature.

 

[Rabbit]

you read my mind.

if the fabric is a smoother finish worsted, or a very stark chalkstripe flannel, then no.

unfortunately my vintage fabric supply is starting to look like a sea of chalkstripe flannel. only a couple of sporty ones left.

I agree with Fastuni that it's less than ideal. If you want to try it anyhow as a change of pace, I'd suggest to do patch pockets only on the two large pockets, not the breast pocket which would be overkill, plus back belt, and contrast buttons (for instance, brown buttons on a grey chalkstripe).

 

[herringbonekid]

Exicted to get it to that stage as I think its such a cool feature.

me too.

what's the purple fabric you're using on the roll-line / bridle ?

 

[herringbonekid]

here's a couple of pinstriped suits with patch pockets from M. Ward 1922.
the first one is described as 'pencil striped cassimere':

 

[Rabbit]

They look great, both of them!