The ultimative Denim Trouser Thread?

[Blackadder]

My understanding is-
1) "regular" Levi's sold at different regions are made by countries (often developing countries) in those regions such is that I often find made in Philippines and Thailand Levi's in Asia;
2) the 501 STF model is made in Mexico mostly and therefore available in Americas but not usually available in other regions. One can of course find parallel imports or try to order online.
3) Levi's has revamped their line and a lot of the models got discontinued e.g. I bought a pair of rigid/STF made in Mexico Light Brown 501 a few years back at a parallel import store. I can't find them anymore even at the Levi's US website. Also gone are the 505 and 517 rigid models. Some of those have been placed under the LVC like the 1965 505 and the 70s 517 as seasonal models.

 

[Sonero]

I have to say that while I agree with your assessment on certain Levis, I have found some really nice denim on Levis recently by going to discount stores (Ross). It’s hit and miss of course, but heavier good quality Levis are out there at a good $20 price. Just stay away from 511/ 514 cuts. The 501 and 505s are what I’m seeing.

On closer inspection, they are made in Lesotho- South Africa !?!

When my body was a little wider I was able to fit into 501's. The ones made in Haiti maybe 5 years ago were still ok for the price. The made in Egypt versions scared me away for several years until recently. I am a true slim fit and Levis just doesn't work for me except perhaps a 511 cut. Otherwise the thighs would be too large on other models. The problem is the stretch fabric they use "spandex" ruins the silhouette of the garment once it washes and stretches out.

The best cheapo jeans from my experience sold in America are made in Mexico. Carhartt and to some minor degree Levis (if you are lucky to find some) do make items in Mexico.

 

[mrgrumpy]

Diesels remain my favourite, a two to three year old Waykee being my current daily habitual wear. I also have a twelve year old pair from when they were still made in Italy which have just about reached a fashionable level of “distress”. Otherwise, Ben Sherman stretch and some very slim Superdry intended for someone a third my age make up the balance. By contrast the attached photograph is one of my favourite bikes but some slightly embarrassing jeans.

 

[handymike]

The bike and helmet rock!

 

[Pandemic]

Just bought in. 20 oz duck...yeah, i’ll try that.

Cool! Did you get the green ones?

 

[mrgrumpy]

The bike and helmet rock!

Those Griffin helmets were good quality cool kit in the 1970s. Incredibly, I have seen several on eBay at £200 to £300, but I can’t imagine anyone actually wearing a forty year old helmet. Retro helmets do seem to be rather popular, the AGV Ago being particularly nice.

 

[Bfd70]

Cool! Did you get the green ones?

Yep

 

[Kermit]

I would like to buy nice "vintage" jeans. The problem is, I don't know anything about it ! I know there is a science in denim ... and there is a lot to know.

So I would like "vintage" jeans, with a relatively high waist. I don't want something overly baggy (I don't want a modern slim fit, but I have thin legs). I saw some really nice denim on the "Pikes Brothers" website.

I have an attraction for the model "1946 Lumber Pant 13oz indigo". Isn't the fit too wide ? Do you have another model to suggest to me ?
My height is 188cm and my weight is 74 kg. How do I choose the right size for my jeans ?

 

[Bfd70]

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-ultimative-denim-trouser-thread.102195/

 

[Blackadder]

There are way too many out there. Being in Europe, Pike seems a good choice for you. If you really get into it then there are lots of Japanese and American brands.
As to the cut, one place to start is Levi's Vintage Clothing website. You can get a feel of what the era/year means in relation to the cut. It is not uncommon for people to describe the cut as 40s cut, 50s cut or 60s cut etc so LVC website may give you an idea what those mean.
I'd not say the Pike Lumber are wide. They look like loose fit. Sizing depends on the shrinkage. Normal dry denim may shrink up to 2 inches. Sanforized denim has very little shrinkage. Best measure your actual waist then ask the seller/manufacturer about the preshrunk measurement and the shrinkage to work out the actual size. Since your height is 180cm, the regular 32 inch inseam should fit fine.

 

[Sonero]

I highly recommend starting with Iron Heart. They are super expensive but customer service is top notch and they offer videos and chat forums for support. They won't let you buy a bad pair of jeans but you need to put some effort into it.

Iron Heart....right from the start.

There are several other options but you won't get the "learning" experience or guarantee that you would with IH.

 

[handymike]

There are many fans of the Wrangler Cowboy cut.

 

[Pandemic]

While you are still figuring out what you are looking for, Levi’s 501 shrink to fit can be a good starter to learn on.

 

[Pandemic]

Every time I see Gustin put up that green selvedge I am tempted to get a the jeans - but I have no idea how olive denim would look after a bit of wear and fading. I have held off so far, for fear that they would turn a bright leprechaun lime color, hahah!

 

[Sonero]

Every time I see Gustin put up that green selvedge I am tempted to get a the jeans - but I have no idea how olive denim would look after a bit of wear and fading. I have held off so far, for fear that they would turn a bright leprechaun lime color, hahah!

I am seriously digging the Tobacco colored duck pants. My first Gustin item arrives tomorrow . Judging by what I receive I am tempted to order a few more items.

My second pair of Bravestars arrived yesterday and low and behold they fit ! These are the EXACT same size and model that I was unable to pull past my thighs just a few weeks ago. Proof that there is a lack of quality control. I would happily buy more pairs from BS if they could guarantee the specs on their size charts.

 

[Sonero]

Bravestar 21oz Ironside.
Totally worth $158. Heavy Duty.

 

[Alexlutov]

Bravestar 21oz Ironside.
Totally worth $158. Heavy Duty.
View attachment 291057 View attachment 291058 View attachment 291059

Hi, how are your impressions of the jacket? I went to their website, looked...in General, interesting. But I didn't like their policy on international shipping....

 

[Sonero]

Hi, how are your impressions of the jacket? I went to their website, looked...in General, interesting. But I didn't like their policy on international shipping....

In general Bravestar offers rugged denim at a fair price. What you don't get though is the detailing like you would with the Japanese brands. The hardware is decent but not top notch quality.

For $158 you cannot go wrong with this jacket as a knock around piece. I don't think you would wear this with a pair wingtips dress shoes to a roof top bar. Some denim jackets can be worn this way. Not this one.

It's a decent jacket. If you want something cheaper go for WRANGLER. They still make a very decent trucker for under $50.

 

[Alexlutov]

In general Bravestar offers rugged denim at a fair price. What you don't get though is the detailing like you would with the Japanese brands. The hardware is decent but not top notch quality.

For $158 you cannot go wrong with this jacket as a knock around piece. I don't think you would wear this with a pair wingtips dress shoes to a roof top bar. Some denim jackets can be worn this way. Not this one.

It's a decent jacket. If you want something cheaper go for WRANGLER. They still make a very decent trucker for under $50.

I just bought a 13mwz from the sheplers, waiting for them. Yes, Wrangler has some great jackets, I'll probably buy one of them.

 

[Bamaboots]

13mwz, $19 Amazon.