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The ultimative Denim Trouser Thread?

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,082
Location
London, UK
I think the prices on knit wear are outrageous. Textiles are high. I have 7 of their shirts. 2 were purchased at their outlet at a good discount. 2 were purchased used at an even bigger discount. 3 were full price. their UHF are just awesome. Like pants I like that they provide all measurements. Also they ship to me for free in 2 days.

Knitwear in general has gotten expensive in recent years. Quality wool is pricier across the board than was once the case - I've known home-knitters to buy unfashionable, second hand knitwear in charity shops just to pull them apart to reuse the wool as it's much cheaper than buying the wool new. The other thing that can significantly put the price up is if something is handknit. One of those intangibles (like "Made in USA" / Made in UK") which you might notice in the garment itself as opposed to machine-knit, but will matter to a lot of folks. Needless to say, hand-knitting takes much longer and so inevitably you end up with significantly higher labour charges.

These are general comments, of course - I'm not an Ironheart customer and I don't keep up with their line.
 

Sonero

Practically Family
Messages
867
Location
San Diego / Tijuana
Well my Bravestar 21oz came in today. According to their chart the waist should have come in at 32.5". It happens to be 15.5" flat. I could not get them past my thighs. That's funny because a 32.5 should fit loose on me seeing I am a true 32:) No response from Brave Star. Maybe give them a few days. Last time they ruined my jeans by hemming my pants too short. Otherwise I recently purchased some excellent cotton t shirts from them. I took one look at the package the pants came in and said to myself. No way they could fit a pair of 32" waist 25oz jeans in an envelope that small....and I was right.
 

Pandemic

One Too Many
Messages
1,503
Location
In The Flat Field
That sucks.

I wear a 32 in Gustin, which always measures 32.5 new and stretches a bot. For my recent 21oz order I sized up because there will be less stretch.

Bravestar loopwheel tshirts are currently on sale, but they seem really big and boxy even sized down.
 

Sonero

Practically Family
Messages
867
Location
San Diego / Tijuana
That sucks.

I wear a 32 in Gustin, which always measures 32.5 new and stretches a bot. For my recent 21oz order I sized up because there will be less stretch.

Bravestar loopwheel tshirts are currently on sale, but they seem really big and boxy even sized down.

I am super impressed with Bravestar T shirts. Thats why I only went medium force Rambo on them about the jeans. I have settled on not buying jeans ever again from BS but the T shirts are a winner. I wear an X small by the way in the ultra heavyweight 8.5oz. The collar is a little large but the other dimensions are very nice looking on me. I also purchased 2 of the black/grey 6.5 oz tri color fabric. Very smooth and buttery. also size Xs. I am a small/medium in all other brands.
 

Sonero

Practically Family
Messages
867
Location
San Diego / Tijuana
I’m tempted to try dialing in a custom fit on a pair of heavyweights or maybe do a custom black denim western shirt.
For both I would highly recommend Okayamadenim. They are having a really good sale now. Studio l Artisan has EXCELLENT denim shirts on sale right now as well as jeans.
For denim shirts INDIGOFERA has very unique styles. Highly recommend . Look them up on google. Denim co from Sweden sold on Rivet and Hide and other boutique type websites. Thickness is good at 14oz. On par with Ironheart IMO.
 

Sonero

Practically Family
Messages
867
Location
San Diego / Tijuana
Still browsing www.okayamadenim.com SAMURAI JEANS sparked my curiosity as one of the pioneers in the Japanese Selvage Biz. Not disappointed at all. Their 19 and 21 oz denim is fabulous and with the Black Friday deal and free shipping by DHL was a steal.
SAMURAI JEANS > Highly Recommended .
 

Pandemic

One Too Many
Messages
1,503
Location
In The Flat Field
I highly recommend Ciano Farmer,
Who’s sale has been extended to the end of this week.

https://www.cianofarmer.com/

74B443A5-50D8-407E-AA4D-D573D88A603E.jpeg
 

HarryLime

Familiar Face
Messages
72
Still browsing www.okayamadenim.com SAMURAI JEANS sparked my curiosity as one of the pioneers in the Japanese Selvage Biz. Not disappointed at all. Their 19 and 21 oz denim is fabulous and with the Black Friday deal and free shipping by DHL was a steal.
SAMURAI JEANS > Highly Recommended .

Yep, I've been wearing a pair of Samurai 21oz for 13 months now (not counting the summer heat when it's nearly impossible to wear them)
 

Turnip

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,352
Location
Europe
Here´s a Carhartt 10096, washed duck, color is called dark coffee though that would look a little different in Europe...:cool:
"Relaxed Fit" means a bit baggy, it´s just a real workers pant and such is also the price tag.
Wind tight woven and made from relative heavy canvas it´s also good for lower temperatures. Thanks to NAFTA it´s made in Mexico, like so much other newer Carhartt stuff.
Care is easy, just throw it into the machine up to 60°C. Shrinkage is not really dramatic and once done it doesn´t go in any further.

full
 

Pandemic

One Too Many
Messages
1,503
Location
In The Flat Field
Gustin just released some heavy duck canvas five pocket jeans in olive that look really nice. Just not sure how much I'd wear green jeans. Maybe better for a chino.
 

Sonero

Practically Family
Messages
867
Location
San Diego / Tijuana
Whatever you do don't buy a pair of Levis. What I received resembled a pair of blue spandex pants that the girl wore in Flashdancers the movie. Made in Bangladesh which is below even India in production quality. At least in China you get a 50% chance of getting it right...India 20% ....Bangladesh 10% from past experiences.
I am so pleased to have learned about Japanese Denim and stores like Pike Brothers. I will never buy jeans from America again.
 
Messages
11,167
Location
SoCal
Whatever you do don't buy a pair of Levis. What I received resembled a pair of blue spandex pants that the girl wore in Flashdancers the movie. Made in Bangladesh which is below even India in production quality. At least in China you get a 50% chance of getting it right...India 20% ....Bangladesh 10% from past experiences.
I am so pleased to have learned about Japanese Denim and stores like Pike Brothers. I will never buy jeans from America again.
I have to say that while I agree with your assessment on certain Levis, I have found some really nice denim on Levis recently by going to discount stores (Ross). It’s hit and miss of course, but heavier good quality Levis are out there at a good $20 price. Just stay away from 511/ 514 cuts. The 501 and 505s are what I’m seeing.

On closer inspection, they are made in Lesotho- South Africa !?!
 
Last edited:

Mich486

One Too Many
Messages
1,690
I have to say that while I agree with your assessment on certain Levis, I have found some really nice denim on Levis recently by going to discount stores (Ross). It’s hit and miss of course, but heavier good quality Levis are out there at a good $20 price. Just stay away from 511/ 514 cuts. The 501 and 505s are what I’m seeing.

On closer inspection, they are made in Lesotho- South Africa !?!

Agreed. Levi’s offering is so vast that they can’t be dismissed as “spandex pant”. The 100% cotton Levi’s very much feel like “jeans” (more so that the 25oz etc nonsense if you ask me).

I think the 501 STF are still a very solid option for work/casual jeans.
 

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