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The Thread to Display Your 1930s Suits

herringbonekid

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Fastuni

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to me, there's little difference in overall effect if the long line is achieved by 'rolling' the lapel to the bottom button, or by having a 4 x 1 fastening.

Yes, for those jackets closing on the pocket line.

Somewhat different are the (to my knowledge almost exclusively European) 4x1 jackets closing above the pocket line. The lapel length here is similar to low set 6x2 Bold Look jackets from the same time.
I prefer this version for it's understatement and elegance, as compared to the Bold Look.
SAM_3188.jpg
 
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herringbonekid

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thinking about it, perhaps the bottom fastening looks unbalanced to me on these 30s examples because they still have a lot more waist suppression than the later bold look 'boxier' styles.
when a jacket has a very defined waist it seems natural for the main button to operate at that height, in order to give the 'nipped waist' look. fastening below the waist is a bit like two looks in one; one nipped, one looser.

IMG_1831.jpg



(anyway, these are all subjective opinions. i hope you're not offended by any of them Guttersnipe. :))
 

Tomasso

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If memory serves it was the DoW who began using the bottom button closure to create a longer lapel line in order to visually disguise his midgetlike stature.



duke-of-windsor-0907-lg.jpg
 

Flat Foot Floey

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Maybe they tried to strech boundaries of the dresscode of their time and upbringing. The original mismatched socks dudes.

One could argue that the long roll is less "buttoned up" and more causual than a high buttoning jacket?
 

Guttersnipe

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(anyway, these are all subjective opinions. i hope you're not offended by any of them Guttersnipe. :))

Not at all. I'm still trying to figure out what equestrian furnishings have to do with suits though (see BK's post above).

Regarding the black suit. Interestingly, I belive it was actually intended to be buttoned as a long line, at least some of the time, as it has two buttonholes for inside shank buttons.

some men's forums/blogs refer to this style as the 'Kent'. ;)

I belive "Kent" specifically refers to a four on two configuration, which both the Duke of Kent and Prince of Wales famously buttoned at the bottom a lot.

Esquire and Apparel Arts were just gaga over that style in the early to mid-30s. What is really interesting is that, contrary to what a lot of us are saying here, at the time, the long line was suggested for both heavier and shorter frames. I guess they thought it was slimming and "verticalizing," although personally I'm not so sure about that.
 

Mr. Purple

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This is a tweed suit (don't know the date) made by House of Lewis, of Bristol, sometime during the 1930s. I am modeling it in a Stockholm vintage menswear shop (A. Marchesan) - the suit itself I got from Bookster, though.
House of Lewis 1.jpg House of Lewis 4.jpg House of Lewis 5.jpg House of Lewis 2 - Copy.jpg House of Lewis 3 - Copy.jpg
 
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