The special little things...

[Eliot]

Hello to everybody!

In the last time I am thinking a lot about the special little things. These things which gave a vintage suit the real vintage look... For sure, there are the different fashion styles of the 1920s and the 1930s, of course. But I mean the little "rules" or things you mostly hear from people who lived (at) that time.

I have got an example:

My grandfather told me not to wear a vest and a double breasted jacket together (this was the common fashion "rule" in Germany it the 1930s, maybe in the U. S. it was a different handle...)

(What was the thing with collar needles? Did you could wear them without paying attention on your other clothing?)

Thanks for your answers!
Eliot

 

[Marc Chevalier]

That's odd ... I've owned several 1930s German double-breasted suits with their own vests.

The only rule I've ever read about suits and vests comes from a 1930s tailoring handbook. It says that double breasted suits should never have double-breasted vests. Single-breasted vests are quite acceptable, though.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

vest (waistcoat) or vest (sweater-vest)?

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I was referring to waistcoats. Come to think of it, Eliot may be talking about sweaters. If that's the case, then I agree with him!



.

 

[geo]

Here's a DB worn with a sweater in Esquire:

 

[Mr. Rover]

I'm sure the guideline is a rule of thumb so that you don't look 10 pounds heavier than you are. A double breasted suit tends to add bulk around the mid-section already....adding a double-breasted waistcoat adds another 2 layers. You will have 4 layers of heavy wool fabric (assuming you would wear the waistcoat when it's cold out) which will add warmth....but you would be sacrificing your slim, girlish figure.

 

[herringbonekid]

someone once said to me after looking at my outfit "never wear brown AND grey".

i'm not so sure, and i still break that rule fairly often.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

someone once said to me after looking at my outfit "never wear brown AND grey".

i'm not so sure, and i still break that rule fairly often.

I hear you.

People always tell me that some colours just don't go together, and never will. Well, that's a challenge in my book. If someone tells me that my shades of grey are too close and look like i've put the wrong jacket with the wrong trousers, i shake their hand. Finally, someone who noticed!

bk

 

[BellyTank]

Fashion Rules-

"Fashion Rules" are for those who need them"

-BT

 

[Eliot]

For sure he means sweater-vests... ;-)

I also know several pictures and movies where persons are wearing waistcoats and double-breasted suits...

Please have a look at his: http://www.return2style.de/illum.htm

Best wishes,
Eliot

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Great pictures! Vielen Dank!


By the way, a LOT of pre-WWII German menswear is still being exported from Germany to developing countries. In Chile, I found tons of 1930s German overcoats (leather and heavy wool), horsehide motorcycle coats, tuxedos, and some suits in used clothing stores. Every winter, bales of clothes would arrive. Oddly, they also included many frock coats once worn by orthodox Jews. Sometimes I ask myself, "Could all this prewar clothing have come from places like Auschwitz?"

.

 

[shindeco]

someone once said to me after looking at my outfit "never wear brown AND grey".

i'm not so sure, and i still break that rule fairly often.

Brown and grey is one of those combinations that goes in and out of fashion. It was a standard combination in the 30s (look at any old issue of "Esquire") but in the teens and twenties, people thought it was a ghastly combination. I think it's a bit out of style at the moment. I love it, myself, and wear it often.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Here's a DB worn with a sweater in Esquire:

That combination just says "bookkeeper" to me. Not that there's anything wrong with bookkeeping, but it's not known for its style ...

 

[Miss Neecerie]

That combination just says "bookkeeper" to me. Not that there's anything wrong with bookkeeping, but it's not known for its style ...

Hey.....but he who controls and keeps the money.....has money to spend on suits......gotta remember that...

 

[Marc Chevalier]

You're right. It's also a look for wealthy misers.

 

[David V]

Brown and grey is one of those combinations that goes in and out of fashion. It was a standard combination in the 30s (look at any old issue of "Esquire") but in the teens and twenties, people thought it was a ghastly combination. I think it's a bit out of style at the moment. I love it, myself, and wear it often.

I wore brown and grey to work just last friday. I think a lot of folks were suprised at how well it worked.

 

[GateXC]

I think brown/grey together is a great stylish look. Not only do I periodically wear brown shoes with grey trousers. But I have 2 suits that are grey and one of them has a brown windowpane whilst the other has a brown pinstripe - and both look fantastic.

I do think though that it only really works with lighter grey.

 

[Briscoeteque]

What other kinds of color combinations were common in the twenties and Golden Era?

For example, I've been wearing brown and navy, but I don't know if this is a historical combination or not.

Black and navy is something I did once, and nearly every single person I ran into came up to me and commented on it.

 

[3PieceSuitGuy]

Blue and Green

My Grandmother used to say "blue and green should never be seen" so maybe that was a combination that was considered bad. I think lighter greens (olive green etc) and blue look ok together, but that was in the early 90's.

What does everyone else think?

Cheers

Peter