The School of Hard Knox

[Alexwood]

I really like the dark blue midnight colour, it is a sharp looking hat.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I rolled the dice on this hat that seemed to be from the 40s and I think it is. I feel like I overpaid compared to some of the steals I see posted here ($125 plus shipping, but it did come with a box), but it looked like what I was looking for (pre-1950s black homburg with a tall crown and decent sized brim) My guess is early 40s, based on the lack of a plastic or oilskin over the top of the liner, the tall crown, the reorder tag, and the price but would love it if anyone has a better idea of its age.

The seller mis-identified the hat (there are a lot of homburgs listed as bowlers) and the color (midnight, or maybe navy, but very dark blue, not black as listed) and didn't specify the condition. However, it arrived today and is in mint condition. No stains, no moth bites, the sweatband is supple, and the crown seems to have been in an open position so long it doesn't have a crease to remember. According to the tag it is blocked to 5 5/8" and the brim measures 2 1/4" (probably 2 1/2" if flattened).

The only defect, if you can call it such, is is a small ripple in the ribbon from it folding over on itself a little that I think will come out with a little steam. It's kind of amazing actually that something this old can seem so brand new! It's not black as I was hoping, but I think it's close enough that I can wear it with my tuxedo, which is why I was looking for one.

I don't have enough experience with quality felt to accurately describe it, but it's very lightweight and soft, almost floppy. The crown is extremely pliable, almost too much so. It seems as nice as the 100% beaver I have from Northwest Hats, but slightly less stiff.

It is just ever so slightly too small at the moment (depending on the hat I'm a 7 1/4 or 7 3/8), but I'm hopeful that a little time in a hat jack or on my friend's hat stretcher will give it the nudge to fit perfectly.

The last picture shows it (on the left) next to a black Dobbs homburg from the 50s (I assume, considering it still has the blocking info on it) that wasn't quite big enough in proportions for me... it has a 1 7/8" brim and a 4 1/8" blocking height, and also the felt was rather stiff feeling.

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Beautiful homburg. I’d guess the hat is rabbit or a blend of rabbit and hare. Beaver wasn’t used in some of the greatest soft/dress hats (fedoras, homburgs, etc) made in the golden age of hats. However, it’s rare that the manufacturers disclosed their blends so we mostly just make guesses.

I think the blue is great, and I like it better than black for a formal homburg. Midnight blue can appear darker and deeper than black under some lighting, and if works great with a dinner suit/jacket. I don’t think you overpaid.

 

[Blare]

That is one beautiful hat. Love that deep dark inky blue color. Kinda one of those so blue it’s black or so black it blue... either way.. fantastic. Incredible shape for its age. Congratulations

I rolled the dice on this hat that seemed to be from the 40s and I think it is. I feel like I overpaid compared to some of the steals I see posted here ($125 plus shipping, but it did come with a box), but it looked like what I was looking for (pre-1950s black homburg with a tall crown and decent sized brim) My guess is early 40s, based on the lack of a plastic or oilskin over the top of the liner, the tall crown, the reorder tag, and the price but would love it if anyone has a better idea of its age.

The seller mis-identified the hat (there are a lot of homburgs listed as bowlers) and the color (midnight, or maybe navy, but very dark blue, not black as listed) and didn't specify the condition. However, it arrived today and is in mint condition. No stains, no moth bites, the sweatband is supple, and the crown seems to have been in an open position so long it doesn't have a crease to remember. According to the tag it is blocked to 5 5/8" and the brim measures 2 1/4" (probably 2 1/2" if flattened).

The only defect, if you can call it such, is is a small ripple in the ribbon from it folding over on itself a little that I think will come out with a little steam. It's kind of amazing actually that something this old can seem so brand new! It's not black as I was hoping, but I think it's close enough that I can wear it with my tuxedo, which is why I was looking for one.

I don't have enough experience with quality felt to accurately describe it, but it's very lightweight and soft, almost floppy. The crown is extremely pliable, almost too much so. It seems as nice as the 100% beaver I have from Northwest Hats, but slightly less stiff.

It is just ever so slightly too small at the moment (depending on the hat I'm a 7 1/4 or 7 3/8), but I'm hopeful that a little time in a hat jack or on my friend's hat stretcher will give it the nudge to fit perfectly.

The last picture shows it (on the left) next to a black Dobbs homburg from the 50s (I assume, considering it still has the blocking info on it) that wasn't quite big enough in proportions for me... it has a 1 7/8" brim and a 4 1/8" blocking height, and also the felt was rather stiff feeling.

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[blewnote]

Beautiful homburg. I’d guess the hat is rabbit or a blend of rabbit and hare. Beaver wasn’t used in some of the greatest soft/dress hats (fedoras, homburgs, etc) made in the golden age of hats. However, it’s rare that the manufacturers disclosed their blends so we mostly just make guesses.

I think the blue is great, and I like it better than black for a formal homburg. Midnight blue can appear darker and deeper than black under some lighting, and if works great with a dinner suit/jacket. I don’t think you overpaid.

Wow, I never realized that rabbit and hare are different animals, always thought they were the same! I was just using the hat from Mike as an example of quality, since this hat definitely seems better than the Mallory, Dobbs, Crofut & Knapp, and Knox Premier I have recently acquired that I believe are all from the 50s (which I have been delinquent in posting to the new hats section).

You're correct that midnight blue was a favored color choice for black tie since it doesn't wash out and appear greyish/greenish under artificial light. When putting together my black tie rig I would have definitely bought a midnight blue one if I'd found a vintage one, but I had to settle for a black barathea from Spier and Mackay since I needed it on a schedule for a photo shoot for the band I play with (the Squirrel Nut Zippers). I've never seen the fabric in real life, but I can understand how it can pass for black since I have a thrifted navy blazer from Brooks Brothers that is so dark it can easily be mistaken for black. My concern with this hat was more that it might be navy and therefore more obviously blue, thus clashing with my tux.

I was very attracted to a midnight blue homburg someone here has with dark burgundy ribbon and binding, thinking it very elegant, but this one with it's deep blue ribbon and binding shall have to do. I don't know if it's correct to wear a midnight blue hat with a black tux but I think that in a theater, from a distance, under artificial light it should be just fine.

As I mentioned in my response to your query in the "Ask a question" thread, I'm now leaning towards this hat perhaps being older than the early 40s, since reading a comment from Brad Bowers about the size tag (on someone else's hat, similar style tag to mine) being unlike any of the ones Hat Corp. used, which would indicate it to be from before the 1932 merger of companies. Also the factory label is a taller rectangle than those seen from hats in the 40s. With that in mind, I think you're right, it's a fairly reasonable price, and I got incredibly lucky that one of you weasels didn't snatch it up from under me!

As an aside... I still need to handle more felt hats to gain the proper appreciation for what makes one a more exceptional quality than another, but having scored an immaculate example of hat making from 80-90 years ago that can now be used for it's proper purpose (being worn!), I can understand the appeal of hunting for these vintage gems. It's wild to me that something so old could be in such great shape and ready to be worn and loved.

 

[Blare]

Wow, I never realized that rabbit and hare are different animals, always thought they were the same! I was just using the hat from Mike as an example of quality, since this hat definitely seems better than the Mallory, Dobbs, Crofut & Knapp, and Knox Premier I have recently acquired that I believe are all from the 50s (which I have been delinquent in posting to the new hats section).

You're correct that midnight blue was a favored color choice for black tie since it doesn't wash out and appear greyish/greenish under artificial light. When putting together my black tie rig I would have definitely bought a midnight blue one if I'd found a vintage one, but I had to settle for a black barathea from Spier and Mackay since I needed it on a schedule for a photo shoot for the band I play with (the Squirrel Nut Zippers). I've never seen the fabric in real life, but I can understand how it can pass for black since I have a thrifted navy blazer from Brooks Brothers that is so dark it can easily be mistaken for black. My concern with this hat was more that it might be navy and therefore more obviously blue, thus clashing with my tux.

I was very attracted to a midnight blue homburg someone here has with dark burgundy ribbon and binding, thinking it very elegant, but this one with it's deep blue ribbon and binding shall have to do. I don't know if it's correct to wear a midnight blue hat with a black tux but I think that in a theater, from a distance, under artificial light it should be just fine.

As I mentioned in my response to your query in the "Ask a question" thread, I'm now leaning towards this hat perhaps being older than the early 40s, since reading a comment from Brad Bowers about the size tag (on someone else's hat, similar style tag to mine) being unlike any of the ones Hat Corp. used, which would indicate it to be from before the 1932 merger of companies. Also the factory label is a taller rectangle than those seen from hats in the 40s. With that in mind, I think you're right, it's a fairly reasonable price, and I got incredibly lucky that one of you weasels didn't snatch it up from under me!

As an aside... I still need to handle more felt hats to gain the proper appreciation for what makes one a more exceptional quality than another, but having scored an immaculate example of hat making from 80-90 years ago that can now be used for it's proper purpose (being worn!), I can understand the appeal of hunting for these vintage gems. It's wild to me that something so old could be in such great shape and ready to be worn and loved.

How cool.. I remember your band. I imagine 40s attire fits quite nicely there.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

OPS era Knox Twenty size 7 ⅜ LO. The brim is 2 ⅝” wide and the open crown is 5 ⅝” tall.

 

[blewnote]

OPS era Knox Twenty size 7 ⅜ LO. The brim is 2 ⅝” wide and the open crown is 5 ⅝” tall.

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That's a nice one Brent!

 

[Mighty44]

OPS era Knox Twenty size 7 ⅜ LO. The brim is 2 ⅝” wide and the open crown is 5 ⅝” tall.

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I recently got my first Knox Tweny and have to say it is pretty much the perfect fedora. Classic proportions and taper, soft thick felt and made to last. Will post soon now that the weather is cooler.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I recently got my first Knox Tweny and have to say it is pretty much the perfect fedora. Classic proportions and taper, soft thick felt and made to last. Will post soon now that the weather is cooler.

Looking forward to seeing your Knox, David. I think the Twenty hats from all the regular players are some of the best hats out there. Anything more and you’re well and truly into the realm of diminishing returns.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

This hat has been for sale for several weeks. It’s too small and too expensive just to satisfy my curiosity. Clean looking hat.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Knox Twenty black homburg. I try not to buy these smaller hats, but this was minty and deserves to find a new home. Send me a PM if you’re interested.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

Newest Knox:

Crown	5-5/8" (open)
Brim	2-5/8" with 3/8" binding symmetric
Ribbon	1-3/4"
Weight	112g

 

[BobHufford]

Newest Knox

It looks new! Congrats Jonathan.

 

[Mighty44]

Newest Knox:
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Crown	5-5/8" (open)
Brim	2-5/8" with 3/8" binding symmetric
Ribbon	1-3/4"
Weight	112g

Gorgeous!

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Newest Knox:
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Crown	5-5/8" (open)
Brim	2-5/8" with 3/8" binding symmetric
Ribbon	1-3/4"
Weight	112g

They don’t come much better than that unless you have a Time Machine…even then? Congrats, Jonathan!

 

[Blare]

Newest Knox:
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Crown	5-5/8" (open)
Brim	2-5/8" with 3/8" binding symmetric
Ribbon	1-3/4"
Weight	112g

Very nice, Jonathan. Love the color combo.

 

[Pellie]

If someone can arrange me such a beautiful Knox in size 59 and is willing to send it to the netherlands...... please call me!!

 

[Pellie]

Today i bought one. Not a wide brim, but you can't have it all right? Knox is hard to get over here in europe. This one is made in Italy under license in the fabric called Rossi.
Pictures from the seller.

 

[Rmccamey]

Looks to be in great shape.

Today i bought one. Not a wide brim, but you can't have it all right? Knox is hard to get over here in europe. This one is made in Italy under license in the fabric called Rossi.
Pictures from the seller.
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[Pellie]

Looks to be in great shape.

Yes, it looks like it is hardly worn (on these pictures). We will see when i received it.