FIT AND FINISH:
Manufacturers description:
“Based on an original vintage piece from our archive, the Nelson jacket is a 1930's inspired sports jacket. Back then most sports jackets featured a closed end type zipper. For practicality, they soon changed to separable ended zippers which we are more familiar with todays modern zippers. The Nelson is made using the best quality vegetable tanned horsehide from Shinki and the jacket also has been finished with periodically correct stitching to reflect the characteristics of a jacket from the Great Depression era. The jacket is constructed with zipped chest pocket, two slash hand pockets and adjustable iron pressed buckles side adjusters on the back.
During initial inspection I was very impressed with the workmanship and quality of the garment. The Talon hookless zipper is larger than the ones on my Himel Heron and Goodwear Californian jackets. Looks like an size 8 or a 10. The feel and position makes it very easy to manipulate with care (as you should with ALL hookless zippers).
- Vegetable Tanned Horsehide (Pigment Finish)
- Cotton Herringbone Lining
- 30s Talon Front Zipper
- McCoy Ball Chain Zipper on Chest
- Iron Pressed Buckle
- Made in Japan”
Of course the next thing I noticed was the breathtaking beauty of the Shinki Horsehide and the weight of the overall jacket. I couldn’t find the exact thickness of leather that they use for this jacket online, but it definitely has some heft to it. It appears to be fabricated with thicker Shinki hides than my Himel and Goodwear jackets and it feels like a more substantial build than them as well. Not a knock to either craftsmen mentioned above, but a pleasant surprise to me. Of course it isn’t as heavy duty as my Lost Worlds Easy Ryder, but it isn’t that far off either. All the panels are matched to perfection and the stitching is flawless.
After I fully inspected the jacket exterior, I began to examine the fine touches and accents. The black cotton herringbone lining is extremely comfortable right away and I can tell it will be even more so after breaking in. I really like the corduroy lining inside the adjustable button wrist cuffs and the hand warmer pocket bags feel sturdy for actual use. The ball zipper pull on the chest pocket has “McCoy” engraved on it and there are no inside pockets, which I am on the fence about missing. Side adjustment buckles are made of really cool pressed iron and are positioned where normal half belt straps are located. Even though there isn’t a “half belt” involved in the construction, I wouldn’t want one to obscure the amazing large one piece back panel of Shinki. It is not where other manufacturers usually put the straps at the bottom of the belt design (see Aero Highwayman, Freewheelers Mulholland, etc).
Here are some fit pics of my size 40. All the measurements are exactly the same as their website and I was assured by their kind representative that their sizes do not deviate from what is posted. Quote “All of our jackets are cut and sewn to exact specifications, just like premier suit designers”.
https://therealmccoys.com/collections/outerwear
Nice!!! Looks great.
Looking at that site ..man they offer a "mobster" that is like a 40s chp- $h:+ is legit.
I visited a RM store in Japan recently and also thought the jackets fit pretty true to size. At 5'8" 155lbs, I was a 38 in most of the RM jackets I tried on.I was under the impression of the same thing, but I noticed that most of the jackets on their site now are close to true to size. I have an older Flat Head that I’m selling that is one size smaller than tag size. That was how all of the Japanese brands seemed to be, and how we were told to buy them. It was just recently pointed out to me, by a potential buyer, that my jacket size doesn’t match the latest Flat Head model sizing. I have never bought a jacket based on tag size as I have had a 36 Aero fit me the same as a 44 Flat Head jacket. Therefore I really haven’t kept track of the latest sizing trends in different markets. I haven’t bought a brand new jacket for a while, until now.
Laying out so much moolah, there's that fear (which modulates into terror when shelling out Australian dollars lol) that the quality or fit of the jacket won't match up to expectations. You've nailed both of those factors with this gem, though!
Nice! Yes, I’m in the front range FoCo. Tell the guys at Ska Brewing “Hi” for me.Nice piece. I'm in Durango, you on the Front Slope?
Thank you! They were very helpful in picking out the correct size and verifying the measurements. Luckily I am the right size for the size 40 in this cut, so it was the same as ordering any jacket from someone else online. But yes, there was some anticipation when the box arrived.Laying out so much moolah, there's that fear (which modulates into terror when shelling out Australian dollars lol) that the quality or fit of the jacket won't match up to expectations. You've nailed both of those factors with this gem, though!
Love this jacket. I want one. Looks a lot like my AERO PHWM, just better in every way.
Interested in the sizing though. I looked at the measurements at the site you ordered from and at Standard and Strange. The chest and shoulders are close enough, but the length, and sleeves length are significantly different on each website. About an inch longer on Standard and Strange. (Although S&S says front length...)
Is S&S receiving a different cut? Measuring differently?
What gives?
I would be replacing my PHWM with this. It has sleeves measured straight down about 24.5” and about the same 24.5” back length, and also slightly smaller shoulders I think around 18.25”.
It feels a bit to small on me which is why I was contemplating replacing it. I liked the measurements on S&S website because it would fix it perfectly, but when I looked at the other site...I’m not sure now, it looks like I wouldn’t gain much in sleeve or length in a 40 And a size 42 would be too big in the shoulders.
any insight you (or anyone else) can provide would help.
Thanks
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I emailed S&S...and provided them the link to the website where you bought yours and asked. They looked at it and told me they had no idea why the measurements were so much shorter on the website where you got yours. Unfortunately S&S is out of stock and can’t physically measure one at this time to make a comparison.My jacket is exactly what the size 40 states on their website. I would call S&S to double check. I’m interested if there is a difference as well.