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The quest for a perfect fitting Aero goes on

GriffDeLaGriff

One Too Many
Messages
1,203
Location
Sweden
Yes the jacket looks good, but if you hear what he is saying "that it felt too big" and then look at the pictures you can clearly see that the shoulders could be more snug for a perfect fit. My shoulders are more snug and I can still layer a sweater under the jacket.
 

borisna

A-List Customer
Messages
357
Location
Canada
This is what I have in mind so far for the new jacket:

30's half belt in brown FQHH

- black plain cotton drill lining (on my first HWM the drill was plain while on the second it was looking like herringbone)
- 2" leather strip on inside bottom
- 2 G1 pockets with snap closure
- double leather(leather lined) button cuffs (will this make the cuffs too thick?), no storm cuffs
- pockets lined in black corduroy
- brass hardware

Any comments about details will be very welcome !!

I read a lot about gents that ask for front and back to be the same length, is this simply personal taste or is there a reason for this?
Also how trim are the sleeves of the 30's half belt? with my HWM, the sleeves were almost twice the size of my arm.
 
Last edited:
Messages
15,563
Location
East Central Indiana
This is what I have in mind so far for the new jacket:

30's half belt in brown FQHH

- black plain cotton drill lining (on my first HWM the drill was plain while on the second it was looking like herringbone)
- 2" leather strip on inside bottom
- 2 G1 pockets with snap closure
- double leather(leather lined) button cuffs (will this make the cuffs too thick?), no storm cuffs
- pockets lined in black corduroy
- brass hardware

Any comments about details will be very welcome !!

I read a lot about gents that ask for front and back to be the same length, is this simply personal taste or is there a reason for this?
Also how trim are the sleeves of the 30's half belt? with my HWM, the sleeves were almost twice the size of my arm.

borisna
Everything you have listed sounds very good to me. I do think that you will like the trimmer fit of the '30s HB(and sleeves). Just keep in mind that the normal waist of the '30s HB is angled(otherwise shorter in back)tapering to front. Either allow for that in overall length of back..or ask for the taper to be eliminated(personal choice). The taper can look stylish..if not too short in back. All of my HBs are normal 30's style which have a more fitted appearance. The '30s style sleeves do not come with storm cuffs. I prefer the leather lined cuffs..although they are quite thick. However...I wouldn't say that they are a neccessity..none of my other drill lined button cuffs have shown 'any' wear and are more comfortable.
Of course getting the correct initial jacket size is key...then sleeve and body length.
HD

Here's a pic of one of my '30s HBs in the normal '30s pattern...

100_0412.jpg

100_0414.jpg
 
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Rudie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,069
Location
Berlin
I have heard others comment that the sleeves of the 30s half belt are slimmer than the HWM's. I still find the sleeves of mine very baggy, at least the upper arm portion.

As to the different front and back lengths I think it's just personal preference. I have 30s half belts in both versions and I like the standard with longer front better. But this jacket fits like a glove while the other one is much too wide at the waist/hip.
 

jksu

Familiar Face
Messages
80
Location
United States
look forward to seeing your new coat borisna! gotta feel the jacket is perfect for you whenever you reach for it slip it on... it's a nice feeling when you find the right one.

my highwayman (from oldcrow) is a 38/36 (labeled 36) whereas i'm a 40 in most other jackets... and i love it. style, durability, everything. now i've never tried a 30s halfbelt and may get one some day..

when i'm marathon training, i drop 5-10lbs so a slimmer cut jacket potentially would fit/look better, but i plan to keep the highwayman for a long time and it's adaptability via it's boxy cut is a plus as i "grow" into it. ;-)
 

GriffDeLaGriff

One Too Many
Messages
1,203
Location
Sweden
I wear a 38 Highwayman and a 40 in the 30´s halfbelt.

I also like the slightly longer front, although I asked for longer back so mine isnt as pronounced, but I still like it alot and almost wish it were even longer in the front, it just feels very stylish and is the feature I actually like the most.

You can think about 2-panel sleeves (to make the jacket look more clean) and maybe a satin lining in the arms. It does wear quicker, but its really nice.
 

mattp

One of the Regulars
Messages
161
Location
Australia
The button cuffs may behave differently, but a halfbelt I tried on with the leather linings in the cuffs was really uncomfortable, and the owner has since had it removed. It was super stiff and movement at the wrist was restricted. Talking to Will at Aero about it when I was up there he said he didn't like doing it for that reason.

sleeveleatherlining.jpg

Credit for the photo (and the sweet jacket) goes to Giles from Iron Heart.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,082
Location
London, UK
Beware! The warriors are out! :)

[video=youtube;VLDoiqLpgXg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLDoiqLpgXg[/video]

- double leather(leather lined) button cuffs (will this make the cuffs too thick?)

My Thirties Halfbelt has the standard button cuffs; my Bootlegger the leather-lined. The latter I didn't specify beyond "button cuffs" (didn't know there was a difference back then). In practice I don't notice the difference much as I rarely unbutton them. Unbuttoning the single layer is, of course, much easier. Theoretically I would suggest the leather lined option might stay cleaner looking longer and wear less, though I've not found this to be a problem with my Halfbelt. A black lining certainly is unlikely to show up dirt (though leather will be wipe clean). Cuffs will be a little stiffer if leather lined, but again I can't honestly say I much notice that when wearing it.

Also how trim are the sleeves of the 30's half belt? with my HWM, the sleeves were almost twice the size of my arm.

Slimmer enough that you should get the trim fit you want without it feeling more akin to a shirt than a jacket.
 

borisna

A-List Customer
Messages
357
Location
Canada
The button cuffs may behave differently, but a halfbelt I tried on with the leather linings in the cuffs was really uncomfortable, and the owner has since had it removed. It was super stiff and movement at the wrist was restricted. Talking to Will at Aero about it when I was up there he said he didn't like doing it for that reason.

sleeveleatherlining.jpg

Credit for the photo (and the sweet jacket) goes to Giles from Iron Heart.

Hi mattp

I had leather lining in the cuffs of my HWM exactly like in the pic you posted, yeah it was very stiff but i kind of like it like that :)
And I think button cuffs behave differently, here are the cuffs from Jan's jacket :

the cuffs look much less bulky here than on HWM style cuffs, BUT this is goatskin so maybe that makes a difference.

HoosierDaddy can you please post a pic of your half belt's leather lined cuffs? i want to see how thick they are with FQHH.

D-day tmw for me and Wallis !!! Aero comes back from vacation and I will place my order :eusa_clap and Wallis should get his new HWM from customs :)
 

zaman fu

Familiar Face
Messages
76
Location
San Francisco, CA
I have a 30's half-belt in vintage brown FQHH that I love. I got it with an equal length front and back (25" long back, I'm 5'9"), which I think looks best with more modern, lower-waisted pants. I got double-leather cuffs and a leather strip on the bottom, both of which I would not do again due to the high cost of these options. I would recommend corduroy on the bottom edge, instead of a leather strip, if you intend to cinch the side-straps for a fitted look. The leather strip makes the bottom edge stiff, which causes it to puff out at the sides when cinching the straps tight, not a flattering look.
 

borisna

A-List Customer
Messages
357
Location
Canada
Just submitted my order to Aero :eusa_clap

1930's Half belt in brown FQHH

- size 38, 24" back, 25.5" front (I am 5'11")
- black plain cotton drill lining (on my first HWM the drill was plain while on the second it was looking like herringbone)
- 2" leather strip on inside bottom
- 2 G1 pockets with snap closure
- double leather(leather lined) button cuffs, no storm cuffs
- pockets lined in black corduroy
- brass hardware

And now waiting period :cry: got quoted 10-12 weeks so should be here just in time for the right weather
 

Mojo1975

Sponsoring Affiliate
Messages
321
Location
Seattle, WA
Just submitted my order to Aero :eusa_clap

1930's Half belt in brown FQHH

- size 38, 24" back, 25.5" front (I am 5'11")
- black plain cotton drill lining (on my first HWM the drill was plain while on the second it was looking like herringbone)
- 2" leather strip on inside bottom
- 2 G1 pockets with snap closure
- double leather(leather lined) button cuffs, no storm cuffs
- pockets lined in black corduroy
- brass hardware

And now waiting period :cry: got quoted 10-12 weeks so should be here just in time for the right weather

For a tall guy, you're getting a very, very short back length...we never order something this short unless the customer wants something well above the belt line... Also, for a 38 slimfit, I hope you're less than 165 lbs.
 
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borisna

A-List Customer
Messages
357
Location
Canada
Hi Mojo
I was just thinking about that, what back and front lengths would you recommend?
My size 38 HWM was 25.2" back and as you can see almost touched my back pockets :


I am actually about 160 lbs but that's shredded muscle :cool: so i have smaller measurements than the average guy with that weight
 
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wdw

One Too Many
Messages
1,260
Location
Edinburgh
Borisna, FWIW, when Will at Aero measured me for my HWM, he recommended that it should lie just above the back pockets, exactly where yours sits. Mine looks the same as yours and is 25.5.
 

borisna

A-List Customer
Messages
357
Location
Canada
wdw, i was looking before at these pics of HectorTorta's half belt and I think his fit looks very nice:
 

wallis

Familiar Face
Messages
52
Location
Canada
Sounds good Boris. I think the size 38 30s HB should fit perfectly considering that the size 38 Highwayman was a little bigger than you wanted.

Mine has not arrived yet. I'm hoping for tomorrow - I mean the sorting facility is only a few blocks away.
 

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