The lost world j23 project.

[photo2u]

Friends, Steward from LW is helping me out in making two j23 in hh black and one in their brown color. Both jackets will be made in their thickest hh leather.

I am posting this to get some feedback regarding which options to go with. Thinking of going to go with Olive green thread for the brown and Navy for the black. I have gathered some of the zippers that belong to my father’s from his gear in the service.

I have taken some images of the colors I have to work with. Additionally, I do have the color marker (mash) to change the color from OD to brown.

My number one choice is the all Crown silver zippers with the tan. The rest is a toss-up.

The zippers are #5 for each type there are enough for a complete jacket. The #10 will be used for the main cross or sleeves?

There is a huge zipper but does not function as a separating zipper because it lacks the box. I put it there just for fun. I think it a size #12? Maybe bigger.

Lastly, Does anyone has the measurements of the Main zip and D pocket zips in size 44? I am going old school in tailoring the zips to the correct size. My j23 is in size 38 (daughter uses it now) LOL. The J23 in the works are going to be size 44/42.

NOT PICTURED #10 GOLD COLOR CONMAR AND 40'S TALON VERY COOL ZIPPER BOX.
Did not make the cut white zippers image is just for reference.

What do you guy think? I welcome any input from anyone!


SLEEVES View attachment 142616 DPOCKET View attachment 142611 D POCKET IN #10 ZIP View attachment 142612 MAIN ZIPS View attachment 142613 Did not make the cut View attachment 142615

 

[ton312]

I think it would be cool to use these zips randomly...you've got some very cool ones there. I also like the idea of navy blue stitching on a black jacket. It will create an interesting glow at the seams. Sounds like a cool project. I'd be very interested to hear what Stu's thickest available hide at ATM. I absolutely love the j23 I just picked up and fear a fire has been lit for more...

 

[Hh121]

So how thick is their thickest HH?

 

[photo2u]

Ton, Thanks for your input. I truly value your sage comments.
this is the list of extras for the jackets. All hardware is original period.

Black j23
Hide: HORSE heavy 4+
Zips: all blue Korean war conmar mint condition zips (3 with half bridge stops).
Main Zip blue tape #10 crown spring loaded.
Thread: Navy blue. I want to see if he would use Polyester bonded in tex 90.
Lining: Navy blue heavy-duty nylon.
Tailoring: Shorten the arms 1.5 inches.

Brown j23
Hide: HORSE heavy 4+
Zips: all green or brown(properly dyed with a fabric marker http://www.mash-japan.co.jp/oversea/repair/zipper/howtodye.cgi) mint condition spring loaded chevron zips (3 with half bridge stops).
Main Zip Olive tape #10 crown spring loaded.
Thread: od thread. I want to see if he would use Polyester bonded in tex 90.
Lining: Olive heavy duty nylon.
Tailoring: Shorten the arms 1.5 inches.

I have complete sets of the following zips for the build of this jackets as a second choice.

#5 Talon gold and silver metals black tape
#5 Crown olive color metals olive tape
#5 Conmar gold metal in neutral color tape. (dye will be required)
#10 Crown spring loaded zip blue, brown, olive.
#10 Talon silver and gold color metals with brown, green and black tapes.

I welcome any comments!

 

[photo2u]

So how thick is their thickest HH?

I think just under 5oz. My current j23 is so very thick a can feel the difference between the 4+ and mine. I hope I can get lucky. LOL.

 

[ton312]

Ton, Thanks for your input. I truly value your sage comments.
this is the list of extras for the jackets. All hardware is original period.

Black j23
Hide: HORSE heavy 4+
Zips: all blue Korean war conmar mint condition zips (3 with half bridge stops). Main Zip blue tape #10 crown spring loaded.
Thread: Navy blue. I want to see if he would use Polyester bonded in tex 90.
Lining: Navy blue heavy-duty nylon.
Tailoring: Shorten the arms 1.5 inches.

Brown j23
Hide: HORSE heavy 4+
Zips: all green or brown(properly dyed with a fabric marker http://www.mash-japan.co.jp/oversea/repair/zipper/howtodye.cgi) mint condition spring loaded chevron zips (3 with half bridge stops). Main Zip Olive tape #10 crown spring loaded.
Thread: od thread. I want to see if he would use Polyester bonded in tex 90.
Lining: Olive heavy duty nylon.
Tailoring: Shorten the arms 1.5 inches.

I have complete sets of the following zips for the build of this jackets as a second choice.

#5 Talon gold and silver metals black tape
#5 Crown olive color metals olive tape
#5 Conmar gold metal in neutral color tape. (dye will be required)
#10 Crown spring loaded zip blue, brown, olive.
#10 Talon silver and gold color metals with brown, green and black tapes.

I welcome any comments!

Both orders look brilliant! I absolutely love the black and blue idea...that is going to be a very special jacket and subtle enough that when you see the contrast it will be a delight! Are you going with the quilted lining or just the straight flight nylon? Stu's nylons are a real treat to wear...super easy to get in and out of. Doesn't get the attention it deserves but it's definitely one of my favorite liners for sure!

 

[photo2u]

Ton, I am going with their straight flight nylon. My only concern will be to very careful with the spring loaded crown zips on the sleeves. Due to the high stress when pulling I would love to have #7 or #8 but I want to keep the jackets zippers uniform. I have many #10 crown zips with the smaller slider none spring. This zip can look ok. But they might show a little on the BIG side?

 

[AeroFan_07]

Hey sir, great project idea. Tony now has my J23, and as he can attest, the #10 main zipper is a really important portion as that 4oz leather has a lot of weight to it to support.

I really like both the Black/blue and Brown/green zipper ideas. I do not typically think of LW as really custom jackets, but then on the website they seem to have made many custom jackets. Wonder if yours will be added?

 

[oneterrifichog]

Something like this?

 

[oneterrifichog]

My Black horse Size 44 J-23 has a main Zip (Conmar) of 21.5". The D-Pocket is 7". The Brown one is a size 46 for comfort.

 

[photo2u]

Love the hardware in your brown j23. Are those Mili talon sliders?

 

[sweetfights]

Lost World's and Aero both make excellent jackets but need to upgrade those damn zippers......

 

[photo2u]

Lost World's and Aero both make excellent jackets but need to upgrade those damn zippers......

Yes, I truly do not understand how this can be such a problem. In my view, there still several people who have a good supply of military zips for sale. I know of one who has a room full of such zips.

 

[ton312]

Lost World's and Aero both make excellent jackets but need to upgrade those damn zippers......

Couldn't agree more!! Man 4oz leather will absolutely destroy anything under a #8 in short order. I don't care about zipper brands in the least. Give me a fat ass reliable YKK that won't fail and will close the jacket forever and I'm happy!

 

[ksozay]

Also working with Stuart on a black J23 order. Have enjoyed working through this process with him, great guy.
This is the jacket I've used for reference, including specific zippers (Conmar).

 

[photo2u]

Couldn't agree more!! Man 4oz leather will absolutely destroy anything under a #8 in short order. I don't care about zipper brands in the least. Give me a fat ass reliable YKK that won't fail and will close the jacket forever and I'm happy!

Agree with you. Gibson & Barnes use great YKK nickel zippers for their a-2 repros. I like them because they are great quality. For this project, I am using zippers and hopefully other items that have tremendous sentimental value to me.

 

[ton312]

I know YKK carries a stigma as "cheap". The irony is they out perform everything else. They just don't break. Probably why kadoya uses them. If my LW's serval fails it'll be the proud recipient of a #10 YKK. I know there is a concern for historical accuracy and blah blah blah but I just want the zip to match the hide in strength and durability. I find these heavy jackets useless if you have to zip with some sensitivity and caution. It should be like zipping a wheel cover around a spare tire or sealing a boat in a tarp!

 

[Hh121]

Love the Vanson branded YKK zipper, they even use #10 YKK zipper on both sleeves

 

[sweetfights]

I know YKK carries a stigma as "cheap". The irony is they out perform everything else. They just don't break. Probably why kadoya uses them. If my LW's serval fails it'll be the proud recipient of a #10 YKK. I know there is a concern for historical accuracy and blah blah blah but I just want the zip to match the hide in strength and durability. I find these heavy jackets useless if you have to zip with some sensitivity and caution. It should be like zipping a wheel cover around a spare tire or sealing a boat in a tarp!

So true . One Aero Cafe
Racer Original zip replaced with brass #10 YKK. Best move. A man should never have to wrestle with a damn zipper. No reason for it!

 

[photo2u]

Love the Vanson branded YKK zipper, they even use #10 YKK zipper on both sleeves

Friend, which vanson model is this? Do you like the #10 zips on your sleeves?
Please advice!