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The long and winding road (another aero thread)

schitzo

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1,472
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Evening all

I've been reading these threads for a month or two and have found this place useful. First off I'd like to say hello to all the regulars – especially Peacoat, Hosier daddy, Butte, Sir Jacket, coffee and Andrew – you guys all talk a lot of sense, and doubtless I have missed a few names out here so apologies if yours is one of them. I shall begin

The road was long and hard. And expensive also. But our hero, the proverbial tortoise, always believed that if he kept going he would get there in the end This journey started 6 (SIX) years ago with a highwayman bought from Aero USA off ebay. MM took all of my measurements but my size 40 jacket arrived with a 50 inch chest?! 5 custom made jackets direct from the factory later and still none had satisfied me. My thinking is that if I am to commit to breaking in a FQHH jacket then the thing has to be a pretty good fit to begin with. Well yesterday, in what is frankly bizarre fashion, the journey ended!

I have a jacket on order now that's almost due, which I am very optimistic about (unlike the previous 6 that isn't FQHH) but then I saw a 50s halfbelt on ebay that appeared simply too good to look past. The pictures I received bore out the sellers claim that it was unworn new and the measurements seemed as though the thing might just be bang on the money for me. However, I was a tad concerned about the sleeves. The longest I've ever had were 26.75” yet these were 28” - but I figured an extra inch wouldn't make a lot of difference and that if they were too long I could always try my hardest to develop mega inch depriving creases or alternatively plead with the factory to take them up a bit. The other thing that made me slightly anxious was that the seller fudged the measurements a few times. In the end I decided to go in hard for it regardless, as being a veteran of moving on jackets that don't fit right, I knew that if needs be I could always take a small hit and flog it on myself later. I decided this jacket would be worth that risk.

Well, the news is that this jacket, that was custom made for a dude over 2 inches taller than I am, fits me like a glove! The sleeves are great and I am basically thrilled with this fit + the brown FQHH isn't bad either. Before now I've only ever had black, cordovan and mostly cherry, but never brown.

Apparently the original owner went to Scotland and was measured up by Will. My guess would be that on him he felt it was a bit too short. Which brings me to the only (minuscule) bone of contention with it. As it was custom made for him after a visit in person it has his name on a small leather name tag sewn inside. Ideally of course that wouldn't be there but tbh it doesn't really bother me + this bloke is a thoroughly decent chap with whom I am rather pleased thus the reminder of him doesn't especially upset me. It really doesn't! Though obviously that I would mention it in the first place I will admit is confirmation that it does sit there in direct opposition to my OCD/perfectionist tendencies! So, all I would like to know I suppose is, if anyone else has been in this situation, can one of those be removed without too much trouble? i.e. if I cut those stitches off it will that leave holes in the cotton drill lining that'll basically get bigger and end up causing me a problem later? Or would I have to have another tag sewn through those same holes to avoid such a fate? As may be apparent, stitching stuff is not my forte, as much as I wish it was. In fact, at school as I recall I didn't get very far in textiles and fabrics class because I never could get the thread through the hole in the needle! Thankfully however there are less useless people around me who can sew and so if this is a relatively simple and danger free task I am sure one of them can be persuaded to help me out. I just don't know if it's a task I should be bothering somebody else with or not. Do any of you lot have an opinion?

In conclusion, I wish to extend my sincere thanks to all who make this place the useful resource it is. For me, looking at pictures here is definitely helpful. And with that in mind I will of course now reciprocate.

They had to be taken under my porch cos it was monsooning it down this afternoon. Ignore my rather stylish wheelie bin I only noticed that afterwards. I know some of you like to take belts into consideration, so just for you guys I put one on today and tucked my shirt in – neither of which I would normally bother with. It may also be worth pointing out that as an 80s child I like to wear my jeans and trousers low. I wore a white shirt deliberately to test for 'bleeding' and am pleased to report there is none so far, unlike cherry which in my experience bleeds loads

Apologies for my word count here but let's just say the devil is in the detail!

Last thing to add is that I have stuck with aero for this long because they are a first class company with service that is second to none. The problems I have experienced have been of my own making i.e. my inability to measure myself properly and my failure to fully understand how these jackets are intended to fit

aero50shalfbelt021.jpg

aero50shalfbelt004.jpg

aero50shalfbelt008.jpg

aero50shalfbelt025.jpg

aero50shalfbelt026.jpg

aero50shalfbelt017.jpg

aero50shalfbelt029.jpg

aero50shalfbelt019.jpg
 
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Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
Congrat's on the Aero! I'm flattered that you included me in your group of helpfuls, but I'd say it fits just fine - and with wear, etc. the sleeves should end up perfect (for what I like anyways).
It's an awesome hide that takes some work to break, and don't forget to get 'er wet and beat it to a pulp. It's darn near impossible to hurt it. As for the tag - can you take some pics of that? Often, they're easy to remove without issue when new...
Glad it worked out for you!
 

schitzo

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1,472
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London
i thought about taking a pic of the tag but it would show the other guy's name, and maybe he isn't cool with that. To be clear Butte there isn't a thing about this jacket that I would change and if I ever order another I'll be sending this one up to Scotland and requesting an exact replica. It's so damn perfect in fact i think it even affords me the option of developing a gut with middle age, as atm the side buckles have a good chuck of slack left. Rest assured y'all this one isn't going anywhere. Rain isn't a bad shout tho, and I realise now I missed that opportunity this afternoon. Fortunately for me however where I live there'll be plenty more 'opportunities'. Cheers
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
Nice jacket - you don't see so many of the Fifties Halfbelts around these parts. I suspect that the body is a little longer than the standard on this one? Definitely, going from your photos, a touch longer than my Thirties Halfbelt and my Highwayman, and about the same length as my Bootlegger (which is just a touch longer as a standard pattern). It looks grand on you. The sleeves would be a little longer than I personally would go for, but as you're already aware, they'll ride up with wear (as Mr Humphries would say), so I wouldn't think twice about it from that POV. Now all you have to do is get it out there and get it wearing. Enjoy!
 

too much coffee

Practically Family
Messages
912
Location
Not too far from Spokane, WA
Hello schitzo;

What a great looking HB and it fits like it was made for you..........Congratulations!

Enjoy the break in and get used to folks coming up to you and asking, "Can I touch it?"

Welcome to the Lounge

Regards,
coffee
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
That jacket looks great. I think that maybe I would want the HB to be a bit longer in the body than the Highwayman. Maybe the sleeves would be a bit long for my taste but maybe not with the stiffer, heavier FQHH that might be less likely to flop over by wrists the way the thinner goatskin does on me. In any case, one can always make the sleeves shorter but not longer! Congratulations on a great looking jacket and thanks for the great pictures too.
 

Hammer Down

One of the Regulars
Messages
189
Location
Chicago
Fantastic hide, and a nice fit, aside from the sleeves, which look too long to me.

Here is a quote from the below source. Most experts agree with this fairly standard opinion:

Buy a leather jacket with the proper sleeve length. The sleeves on any jacket you buy should not extend past your actual wrist line; otherwise the jacket may look too small or too large for your frame.

http://www.wikihow.com/Buy-Leather-Jacket-for-Men
 

Lungomare

A-List Customer
Messages
340
Location
Austria
Perfect fit! Aero's FQHH is great, but their midweight hides are not entirely convincing (for me!).

So, all I would like to know I suppose is, if anyone else has been in this situation, can one of those be removed without too much trouble? i.e. if I cut those stitches off it will that leave holes in the cotton drill lining that'll basically get bigger and end up causing me a problem later? Or would I have to have another tag sewn through those same holes to avoid such a fate?

No problem! Just remove the thread carefully without drawing too violently. The stiching holes will stay as they are and won't tear bigger holes. I experienced the thread of the cotton drill to be very strong. What you can try is to wet the part with the stitching holes with warm water (40 deg. centigrade) - e.g. a handkerchief wetted with warm water, press it against the cotton drill where the stitch holes are and let it dry naturally, and the holes will get smaller (if this is what you'll get).

Be careful not to soak the drill, because you'd soak also the leather behind - wont't do any harm to the FQHH, but this part could appear with another shade of colour after drying.

Regards,

Johannes
 

schitzo

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Johannes! Of course you are the man who knows. Thanks very much

re:"I suspect that the body is a little longer than the standard on this one?"
I don't know what the standard length is but at the back this is 27.5" and like it says I'm just under 6,2

Hello hammer down and thank you for your directness I respect that. Let me reply in kind. These sleeves are as long as is possible and I like em that way - have tried all different lengths - and like this gives me manoeuvrability. For me, having them this close to my fingers and thumbs feels good. I will accept they could be one inch shorter and I'd still be happy, but that may happen over time with creasing. If they were not past the wrist line as advised by that knowledgeable female fashionista on wiki how, who I would confidently wager owns zero HH jackets, then every time I had to raise an arm they'd ride up too far. I think we'd all agree they have to cover the shirt and sweater sleeves that sit beneath so 'not past the wrist line' reads like horse something else in my mind. Come on man you can't be taking leather jacket advice from people like that!! That's what this place is for

Conclusion: too short = write off, 'too long' = practical - unless they're past the thumb knuckle in which case they really are too long. Ultimately this is of course another case of each to their own, but i can absolutely see where hammer is coming from

I reckon Johannes has nailed it, but here are the pics anyway just in case they evoke any other useful advice
nametag003.jpg

nametag002.jpg
 
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Hammer Down

One of the Regulars
Messages
189
Location
Chicago
That's great, Simon! Glad you like your sleeves. It's all about what is comfortable and best for you, of course.

I can say that one very famous and well respected leather jacket dealer agrees with me and this dealer will not say so publicly on Fedora. In fact, I agree with the jacket dealer! According to the dealer, most people on Fedora have their jackets made so that they look as if they've come off the rack in terms of sleeve length, instead of being custom made. If I buy a jacket to wear while riding my motorcycle, I always go longer, but not too long. I wear gloves that come up my forearm a ways, so even for riding overly long sleeves bunch up under my gloves.

As for being direct, I know British and Americans can't seem to be direct with each other without ruffling feathers. I see it as a form of cultural control that is getting worse, not better. Others might see it as "tact." Here in Chicago people are a little more direct than elsewhere in America. I like that. It suits me fine, as long as folks are not downright rude or thoughtless. I hope that my message to you did not seem rude or thoughtless. I did not intend it that way. Enjoy your jacket!!! It's a beauty!!!!
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
That tag is only stitched through the lining, correct? If so, it's easy to nuke it. The needle holes in the lining I'd imagine will mostly vanish over time. I've taken off patches before, then spray the area with water and let it dry. The cotton seams to then sorta go aback into shape. Repeat if needed.
 

Lungomare

A-List Customer
Messages
340
Location
Austria
As for being direct, I know British and Americans can't seem to be direct with each other without ruffling feathers. I see it as a form of cultural control that is getting worse, not better. Others might see it as "tact." Here in Chicago people are a little more direct than elsewhere in America. I like that. It suits me fine, as long as folks are not downright rude or thoughtless. I hope that my message to you did not seem rude or thoughtless. I did not intend it that way. Enjoy your jacket!!! It's a beauty!!!!

Thanks for your honest words! Beeing European I am used to a very direct communication, which won't bring any disadvantages to this forum. There is no use to be "tactful" instead of posting a fair comment (even if the truth might hurt first ...)!

Kind regards,

Johannes
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
Schitzo, I read a couple of the remarks regarding body and sleeve length. I think that fit is about what "feels right" to the person wearing the jacket. At least for me, a jacket with sleeves that end at the wrist line makes me feel like I have "stork arms," and if a jacket falls below by thumb knuckle, it doesn't work either. A jacket that ends at my waist line doesn't feel right either. So, my best "sweet spot" seems to be about 1/2" above my knuckle and about 2" below my belt line. My experience is that it is incredibly difficult to order a jacket from afar, and my best results have been from rarely finding something on the rack of a store that feels just right. One of my best experiences was visiting the Gibson & Barnes (Flightsuits) store in San Diego a couple of years ago and finding a 44 long black goatskin Indiana Jones jacket with heavy nickel zipper that someone had ordered not decided to buy. Although the jacket did not really meet the true specs of the Indy jacket, it was the bees knees for me, and I snapped it up for $300 instead of $600. So, if your latest jacket feels right for you, then it is right.
 

schitzo

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Yeah the tag is just through the lining so i guess it's no problem. Thanks for the pointers chaps I will handle this one myself

As for the directness, that's a London thing too (kind of) and basically that's my style, which I'll happily admit often puts me at odds with my own countrymen. In a nutshell it's my manner cos that's what I would like to hear from others. Is it a New York thing too? That's what I hear

Anyway, as for these damn sleeves, when I put it on it feels good - i do like the feel of them like this. But you know what fellas, hammer down is right. Not entirely right, and wiki how is definitely wrong with a capital W, but from an aesthetic point of view they are a little too long. I knew this was always gonna be the danger with this deal and i went into it with my eyes open. Though for a jacket that fits me this well in the body it was worth it, and I'm still delighted with my bit of business - especially as it was half price haha

Well, I measured em for myself this time and discovered they're actually 28.5". Had this thing been custom made for me (Simon is the dude I bought it from) I would have probably gone 27.

So what now?

I am wondering how much they will recede with creases - can any of you lot give me a heads up? That at least is a mitigating factor in my favour. If I can have a decent idea about that first then I can work out whether I should ask aero to shorten em, and by how much. As they are now they're at the thumb knuckle. 1.25" less and they'd be to the base of the thumb which I reckon would be about right i.e. still 'long' but not noticeably long if you see what I'm saying.

Obviously I am grateful for the feedback (hope it's obvious anyhow) and like Butte always says, just give it me straight please or not at all I can take it

Best wishes
Schitz
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
Hard to know how far they will wrinkle up, but I'd expect some movement. I'd suggest wearing it for a while and see how you go; if you want to go shorter in future you can always have it seen to. If memory serves, this model has storm cuffs, which would be easier to have shortened in the sleeve than button cuffs (which would necessitate taking the arm off at the jacket end and shortening there...
 
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Lungomare

A-List Customer
Messages
340
Location
Austria
I am wondering how much they will recede with creases - can any of you lot give me a heads up? That at least is a mitigating factor in my favour. If I can have a decent idea about that first then I can work out whether I should ask aero to shorten em, and by how much. As they are now they're at the thumb knuckle. 1.25" less and they'd be to the base of the thumb which I reckon would be about right i.e. still 'long' but not noticeably long if you see what I'm saying.

Obviously I am grateful for the feedback (hope it's obvious anyhow) and like Butte always says, just give it me straight please or not at all I can take it

Best wishes
Schitz

From my experience recede with creases will be about half an inch with FQHH, not more. If it were my jacket, I'd wear it and wait how much the recede really is and how the sleeves look and feel then. After breaking in, I'd soak the sleeves in cold water and let them dry naturally which will bring another recede of 0.5". If they seem still too long, I'd send the jacket to Aero (and wait some months ;)).

BTW: In my opinion it is much better to have the sleeves slightly longer than too short. Yours don't look much too long - so go on wearing it and wait ...
 

schitzo

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Location
London
I can say that one very famous and well respected leather jacket dealer agrees with me and this dealer will not say so publicly on Fedora. In fact, I agree with the jacket dealer!

I can guess who you're referring to here and obviously if it is who I think it is, then yeah sure, that guy is no mug. in fact he is clearly the complete opposite of a mug and what he has to say should be respected. Like you yourself say CUSTOM is the key word here. Gotta tell you though hammer, looking at your pic and username I would never in a million years have predicted a wiki how fashion advice link from you!! Books and covers eh
 

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