The Legendary DURABLE (Wild One) Jacket

[Edward]

The jacket pictured is from the Johnny Strabler figured at the original Madam Tussauds on Baker Street, London. Aero were commissioned to make the jacket back in the eighties. I think Ken might even have made it himself? The Aero MC model has been marketed in recent years as inspired by this jacket, though as noted in a number of respects the MC is closer to the Schott than Brando's (we believe) Durable. I'd love to see Aero do a production run of the Brando jacket, brass hardware and all. Had I the money to hand currently, I'd be tempted.

Durable is the only brand I know of that does top sleeve zippers in such a specific, unique way. Aside from being unusually long, the zippers are not in the middle of the top panel of the sleeve but closer toward the outside, while being at a slight inward angle.

I've seen and owned jackets of th general P style over the years with the zips in the middle of the sleeve on top, on the underside, and one the outside edge right next or on top of the seam. Only on Durables and Brando's jacket have I seen the zip be that sort of length. Never held them side by size, but it looks to be a good three or four inches longer than on any others I've seen, maybe even more. Almost ends on the elbow - as you can see here:

 

[Gamma68]

Is it possible that Brando's jacket was a custom-made one-off?

 

[Monitor]

Is it possible that Brando's jacket was a custom-made one-off?

Durable, as far as I am aware, mostly did custom work that was based on their pattern. I could be wrong, of course but that's what I read long time ago. Then again, I can't shake the memory of seeing an old newspaper ad for the brand so I'm really not sure.

But in any case, here's n interesting photo comparison which leaves very little doubt that the jacket worn by Brando was made by Durable.
https://www.ricktheriault.net/2016/02/05/1950s-durable-jacket/

The question remains what's the story with the jacket on the Madame Tousands waxwork? It's a clue that should be pursued in the quest for truth.

The jacket pictured is from the Johnny Strabler figured at the original Madam Tussauds on Baker Street, London. Aero were commissioned to make the jacket back in the eighties.

The jacket Aero did for the figure was slightly different. There was a photo of it on Aero's site some years ago and it wasn't the jacket on the photo I posted earlier. It was closer to their current MC jacket.

I believe that at some point, the museum either got their hands on the original Durable (the red lining is another detail that goes in hand with this theory) or they commissioned someone, possibly Aero because they certainly have the means, knowledge and experience, to create a new, more screen-accurate replica of the thing.

 

[Edward]

The Tussauds jacket has changed? That adds an extra layer on intrigue to the whole thing for sure!

 

[Peacoat]

@Monitor A very good job of finding the comparison photos. Even to my untrained eye, I found 4 points of similarity (apart from pockets and pocket placement in other photographs not shown here): The position of the sleeve zipper, The sleeve zipper length, the sleeve zipper pull, and the underarm gussets

I don't remember anyone with a picture of a period Schott with the same sleeve zipper placement and length—especially the length. That appears to be unique to the Durable. In fact, I remember most (all?) of the researchers say Scott's sleeve placement and sleeve zipper length were not the same as the Brando jacket. Only Durable had that feature.

So, for me, until someone comes up with conflicting evidence, I agree with you, and the many other researchers who say it was a Durable.

Thanks for a job well done.

 

[Gamma68]

I agree with @Peacoat that the side-by-side photos indicate Brando's jacket was almost certainly a Durable.

There's a really clean Durable on eBay now that seems to have the same sleeve zip and underarm gusset characteristics. Can't quite make out the brand name on the main zip.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-FR...214981?hash=item3fac279585:g:kEAAAOSwQrJbWzNu

 

[Monitor]

I think that's a Waldes.

 

[rocketeer]

I'd be willing to bet that the original jacket, if it's still in existence, has disappeared into a private-private collection.

If I had a heavy-duty sewing machine I'd buy a banged up Schott, remove the lining, adjust the belt slightly and replace the buckle, and taper the torso a bit and call it my own Wild One jacket, haha

Debbie Reynolds was a great collector of movie memorabilia, I wonder if she had it.
More than likely it hung on a rail awaiting the next biker film and got used in that then used and used again then probably ended up in the bin or maybe stolen.
The Wild One was certainly not a stand out or landmark film back then, unlike something such as Wizard of Oz or even Brando's On the Waterfront so the clothing was not that distinctive to keep as were the ruby slippers.
Even Hollywood cannot keep everything, I'm surprised no one has asked the question 'What happened to Brando's (Highway Patrol?) riders cap'

 

[Peacoat]

Debbie Reynolds was a great collector of movie memorabilia, I wonder if she had it.
More than likely it hung on a rail awaiting the next biker film and got used in that then used and used again then probably ended up in the bin or maybe stolen.
The Wild One was certainly not a stand out or landmark film back then, unlike something such as Wizard of Oz or even Brando's On the Waterfront so the clothing was not that distinctive to keep as were the ruby slippers.
Even Hollywood cannot keep everything, I'm surprised no one has asked the question 'What happened to Brando's (Highway Patrol?) riders cap'

Good post, rocketeer. I would like to think someone like Debbie Reynolds had it, but I think your second alternative is more likely. I mean, these guys never knew their wardrobe clothing would become collector's items 60 years after the fact. Fame is fleeting as is clothing worn by the famous.

 

[Mysteryo]

Here’s mine

 

[Bigbenbs]

Beyond the nostalgia factor, what is the quality of Durable relative to other vintage brands?

 

[Mysteryo]

That’s an interesting question... the fact that the jacket is “mythical” doesn’t mean it stands over the other brands....
But actually, I’d say that it IS the case here.
I’ll post Picts tomorrow to illustrate my point.
Like all the best makers, it’s all In the details:
The choice in the color of the hardware, the position of the zippers, the angles, the shape of the collar, pattern, construction of the belt,...
also the quality of the hide is great!
It’s as good or above a Schott or a Buco from the period.

 

[Gamma68]

That’s an interesting question... the fact that the jacket is “mythical” doesn’t mean it stands over the other brands....
But actually, I’d say that it IS the case here.
I’ll post Picts tomorrow to illustrate my point.
Like all the best makers, it’s all In the details:
The choice in the color of the hardware, the position of the zippers, the angles, the shape of the collar, pattern, construction of the belt,...
also the quality of the hide is great!
It’s as good or above a Schott or a Buco from the period.

I look forward to your point-by-point comparison. I'd also like to know how it compares against the Rich-Sher brand. I own one and recall that you do as well.

 

[Mysteryo]

Time goes by so fast...

 

[Peacoat]

That’s an interesting question... the fact that the jacket is “mythical” doesn’t mean it stands over the other brands....
But actually, I’d say that it IS the case here.
I’ll post Picts tomorrow to illustrate my point.
Like all the best makers, it’s all In the details:

Tomorrow has been a long time coming.

 

[Edward]

The Wild One was certainly not a stand out or landmark film back then, unlike something such as Wizard of Oz or even Brando's On the Waterfront so the clothing was not that distinctive to keep as were the ruby slippers.

Although Brando's look later became iconic, that's probably true. It'a good film, well put together (I always felt it covered, to an extent, similar territory to Dean's later Rebel..., though for my money Brando did it better), but doubtless it owes a distinct levle of its notoriety in this part of the world to having been banned from public exhibition until 1968, by which time its pre rock and roll shenanigans must have looked very tame indeed.

 

[regius]

Had it not been banned in Britain, maybe the clothing & rock appearance could had been a little different?


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[regius]

What type of thread was used? Cotton or poly blend? Nylon? I had one, in crappy condition & took it apart & can’t find it now


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[Edward]

What type of thread was used? Cotton or poly blend? Nylon? I had one, in crappy condition & took it apart & can’t find it now


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I was under the impression that synthetic or blend thread is a much more modern thing, use now with repros because it has the look but doesn't rot. Originals would have been all cotton which is why the thread rots over time.

 

[RockSolid]

Hey guys
Just received a jacket which i really believe to be a durable one star, regarding measurements i think it is a size 42
I spent almost 3 hours cleaning it, still i need to do the lining
Some pictures :