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It comes down to the block and the flange. If a hatter does not possess the same block and flange as the original it can never be an exact replica. The block and flange determine the hat and if it ain't right no amount of fiddling can make it so. That is one of the reasons to be a full and complete custom house you need hundreds of block and flange styles/shapes/dimensions etc.and that will run you into the 10's of thousands of $$$$.I came across an interview with costume designer Mark Bridges, for the film There Will Be Blood where he discussed the famous hat worn by Daniel Day Lewis. Lewis was the one who picked out the hat, not Bridges. Lewis selected three vintage hats that a local costume rental company had in stock and he wore them around for days, in costume, trying to decide which hat was the best fit for the character.
I have been looking for that hat for years, and there are a number of hat companies that have attempted to make a Plainview, but no one has yet pulled it off. Baron Hats came closer than anyone else (when I called him some months ago, he said he is no longer making the hat), but even his attempt was pretty far off the mark. Here is a profile of DDL wearing the hat and a profile of the Baron Hats version:
View attachment 307525 View attachment 307526
and here are two shots looking head-on:
View attachment 307527 View attachment 307530
Looking head-on, the hat looks very much like a campaign or park ranger hat. But it looks like a totally different hat in profile.
Watson's Hats recently tried to recreate the Plainview for me, and while I like the hat a great deal, they weren't able to match the hat from the movie.
Most of the replicas I've seen (including my own hat) don't get the profile right. The front and back of the hat in profile view are fairly steep, whereas the profile of my hat and others are angled in more towards the center. And I just haven't seen anyone who nailed the flange on the brim. The pinch on my hat is closer to the original than anything else I've seen, but even mine is far from a match.
I know hatters don't like customers who say "I want a hat exactly like the one in the movie," and I understand the various reasons why they don't want to hear that. But this gets to the point of my post....
In that Mark Bridges interview he noted that they only had that one hat for the whole movie. As I said earlier, that hat wasn't made for Lewis; he just found it at a costume rental shop. They wanted backups of the hat, and so they handed the rental hat to a couple hat makers to have them reproduce it, but none of the reproductions was a suitable match, which got me to wondering, "how hard is it to make a hat?" It's one thing to look at a photo and fail to hit the target, but I was surprised to hear that a hat maker with a more or less unlimited budget and with the target hat in hand still couldn't make a suitable reproduction.