The Flat Head for Posterity

[NYDRH]

I wanted to start a thread dedicated to The Flat Head now that they've been resurrected. I've seen some posts on one particular jacket, people looking for sizing advice or info so I thought it might be nice to put as much of it in one place as possible so that it might help others in the future.

I have found myself running through jackets in search of my personal nirvana and The Flat Head often catches my eye for their interpretations of classic designs, attention to detail and what i think is some of the nicest leather I've seen a manufacturer use. I also find the proportions to be perfect for me relative to many other brands, wide shoulders slim tapered through the waist with smaller sleeve lengths. I don't like having to take sleeves to get shortened for a number of reasons and i really dislike sleeves that hit that first knuckle on my thumb. Makes me feel like a little kid wearing my dad's jacket. So finding an OTR jacket that hits those proportions kind of hooks me for like as a customer. I will say, as many know, there is a lot to be said for the pattern and the dimensions alone will not tell the whole story as I have other jackets that in comparison would make you think they would no fit but they do.

To get it started here are my thoughts on two classics.

These are two of TFH's classic asymmetrical motorcycle jackets. The WRJ-53A(the new version is the FN-LJ-HW001) in a 40 & The Selfedge Del raiser 42.

Leather

The leather is veg-tanned HH, and Flat Head does an added to finish to it which claims to add fats and oils which i think gives it a very nice texture and overall feel that you don't see on many of the repro brands. The WRJ-53A has an aniline finished 1.3 mm Shinki HH It is quite robust, yet pliable the color is that blackened brown effect on certain light it almost has a purple hue. The Del raiser leather is stiffer and has a darker finish both have a tea core effect. Selfedge describes the leather as "Semi-Aniline Finish (The semi-aniline process is designed to keep the natural characteristics and quality of the Leather and to make it durable by combining dye and pigments. The term 'semi-aniline' comes from the mix of an aniline and pigment finish)"

Cut
The cut on these jackets is perfect for me as I mentioned above. I find the proportions in the shoulders to give a nice V shape and it's ideal fit those of us with large shoulders, chest room is ample for me in both and i find the 40 is snug in the right way and is really a better size for me even though i originally thought i was a 42. The waist is trim.

Design and differences:

The selfedge model has brushed cotton lining using their buffalo check. Mixed hardware brass zips and nickel Flat Head branded snaps(nice touch) stripped of a belt, epaulettes and belt loops. While the Flathead model has the epaulettes and a rayon sateen lining. The back design differ slightly in that the delraiser has the back zips with the action back and the flat head model has buckle fasteners which they refer to as uchi nuki(hit n go). Personally I prefer the delraiser design just a bit more. I used to dislike the epaulettes but they have grown on me and I'm happy with them. The cuff zippers have slightly different placement as well. Obviously they are both riffs off the same design.

Zippers are flathead branded some are Bitez and the WRJ-53A has the grommet style which i really like, which i know is not for everyone. Flathead also uses universal zippers which i will share on my next post.

Stitching:
The stitching is well executed and they use contrast top stitching. I'm no expert and quite frankly unless there are obvious cosmetic errors i don't pay a great deal of attention to it. I've included some pics of the shoulders and i think the construction is as good as I've seen on many high end makers(i have not had anything from freewheelers) There's quite a bit of French seams in use which I think looks great aesthetically. I think Flat Head often takes a lot of criticism because of the price and therefore the expectation of them is to be perfect. I get that but there really is nothing that is perfect and fit in the end is more important than anything else in my opinion. I am looking to wear them and as long as they hold up to my expectations of looks and fit im willing to let an errant stitch live.

For anyone curious about measurements and for posterity of those hunting for the ideal fit in a midnight internet search.

The 40 WRJ-53A
Shoulders:18.5in
Chest:40.5in
Length: 24in
Sleeves:24in
Hem:19in

The 42 Del Raiser
Shoulders: 19in
Chest: 43in
Length:24.5in
Sleeves:24.5in
Hem:20in

Please share yours if you are so inclined

 

[dwilson]

Here is my TFH cafe racer in the light brown colorway -- which seems fairly rare to find. They've used this leather before on a halfbelt that Self Edge carried as well but I haven't seen it used much elsewhere. Really a beautiful jacket. Far and away the one I get the most random compliments on when I wear it out. What is also a tad unusual is the lining of this jacket is a very thick flannel. I believe the exact same selvage flannel they use in their winter wear work/westerns.

You can see my thread with full details about the jacket. I don't have much more to add about the fit/leather/hardware/company that the OP hasn't already hit on https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-flat-head-srj-06-cafe-racer-in-brown.103567/

 

[Cheech]

The Flat Head cafe racer I had had the nicest Shinki (perhaps the nicest leather?) I’ve seen. The couple of RMCs and Himel I’ve had did not really compare. The relatively short sleeves and lack of shoulder gussets or action back made it a dealbreaker for me, although I second-guess myself whenever I recall that hide.

 

[NYDRH]

Flat Head Deerskin Cafe Racer

1.3mm thick deerskin, substantial yet lightweight incredibly comfortable to wear.

This is copy I find from Corlection who carried this jacket:

"

These jackets are constructed by some of the best Japanese craftsman in the world. There are only 4-5 craftsman inside FH's Stockburg factory who are able to create these masterpieces. It can take up to two days for the craftsman to finish one jacket. The deerskin used on these jackets is originally from America and tanned for three months in Japan. To begin the process the deerskin is tanned for two months, then tanned for another month. Initially the jacket will have a matte finish but after wear the surface will become shiny and develop a richer colour.The 1.3mm deerskin that FH uses is much thicker, stronger and even softer than other companies. We think that this deerskin is even more comfortable than sheepskin!"


The Flat Head Cafe racer uses 4 pocket design and although i prefer the cleaner look without the hand warmer pockets they execute it well enough that is very subtle.

The back design here is not like the newer one piece back with Western yoke on their more recent horse hide Racer.

I highly recommend deerskin of anyone is considering it instead of Horsehide.

 

[Motocann]

Flat Head Deerskin Cafe Racer
View attachment 386250
1.3mm thick deerskin, substantial yet lightweight incredibly comfortable to wear.

This is copy I find from Corlection who carried this jacket:

" View attachment 386253 These jackets are constructed by some of the best Japanese craftsman in the world. There are only 4-5 craftsman inside FH's Stockburg factory who are able to create these masterpieces. It can take up to two days for the craftsman to finish one jacket. The deerskin used on these jackets is originally from America and tanned for three months in Japan. To begin the process the deerskin is tanned for two months, then tanned for another month. Initially the jacket will have a matte finish but after wear the surface will become shiny and develop a richer colour.The 1.3mm deerskin that FH uses is much thicker, stronger and even softer than other companies. We think that this deerskin is even more comfortable than sheepskin!"


The Flat Head Cafe racer uses 4 pocket design and although i prefer the cleaner look without the hand warmer pockets they execute it well enough that is very subtle.
View attachment 386251
The back design here is not like the newer one piece back with Western yoke on their more recent horse hide Racer.
View attachment 386252
I highly recommend deerskin of anyone is considering it instead of Horsehide.
View attachment 386254

Wow! That Deer Skin jacket is amazing! If you ever let that go let me know!

 

[Motocann]

My TFH Delraiser jacket. I waited for them to re-release this, one of my favs for sure! (sorry for the redundancy)

 

[NYDRH]

My TFH Delraiser jacket. I waited for them to re-release this, one of my favs for sure! (sorry for the redundancy)
View attachment 386305

Fits you perfectly, like it was made for you.

 

[Motocann]

Here's my Flat Head comp leather that I bought from a Lounge member a few years back. It's different than the one I tried on at Self Edge. Different liner etc. Perhaps it was originally from Rivet & Hide. I don't know. Someone once mentioned they were made in New Zealand once upon a time. Maybe someone has insight where this jacket was originally sold?

 

[Motocann]

Fits you perfectly, like it was made for you.

Thanks! I first tried it on in Self Edge SF, I was hesitant about buying it but lusted about it for a few days, by the time I got back to the store they had sold my size. I had to wait another 3 years before they released it again. I'll let them bury me in this jacket ;-)

 

[barnabus]

My TFH Delraiser jacket. I waited for them to re-release this, one of my favs for sure! (sorry for the redundancy)
View attachment 386305

Lovely bike! What year?



Oh yeah, jacket looks pretty fantastic too.

 

[Will Zach]

My TFH Delraiser jacket. I waited for them to re-release this, one of my favs for sure! (sorry for the redundancy)
View attachment 386305

TFH got that one right, for sure. Not a too aggressive taper, slim fit. Just perfect.

 

[Smallrod]

Here's my Flat Head comp leather that I bought from a Lounge member a few years back. It's different than the one I tried on at Self Edge. Different liner etc. Perhaps it was originally from Rivet & Hide. I don't know. Someone once mentioned they were made in New Zealand once upon a time. Maybe someone has insight where this jacket was originally sold? View attachment 386317
View attachment 386318

i have this jacket as well. bought mine from Self Edge, it has this lining and is made in Japan.

 

[Motocann]

Lovely bike! What year?



Oh yeah, jacket looks pretty fantastic too.

Thanks! It’s a 1967 Bonneville

 

[Motocann]

i have this jacket as well. bought mine from Self Edge, it has this lining and is made in Japan.

Oh thanks, that’s good to know. They must’ve changed the liner in the subsequent versions.

 

[ES335]

My TFH Delraiser jacket. I waited for them to re-release this, one of my favs for sure! (sorry for the redundancy)
View attachment 386305

Forget the jacket- gimme that Triumph!

 

[Motocann]

Forget the jacket- gimme that Triumph!

LOL! Where do you live? I have a 1968 TR6 that I'm restoring right now, if you're interested. It's the Steve McQueen bike.
Unlike my '67 Bonnie, the TR6 has the single carb. I know this is supposed to be about jackets, sorry for digressing...

This exact same model:

 

[Brandrea33]

Thread bump ….

Adding my Single Rider’s jacket to this thread.

The dimensions are slightly different than advertised so if you’re buying, ask the shop to show you pictures with a cloth tape.

shoulder: 20.25”
chest: 23.5”
sleeve: 26.25”
back: 27.5

the leather is about as fantastic as I’ve experienced. A “warm black” color, pliable but substantial out of the box, with lots of grain popping up already after only a few wears. Oh … and it has that delicious Shinki aroma!

 

[Creed]

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all reading !!!

Hoping to contribute my little bits to keeping this thread alive and kicking. Had the opportunity to travel to Japan after they relaxed their Covid travel restriction.

Side note : Anyone looking to head there, am happy to share some tips that will help make it easier for a foreigner who doesn’t speak/read Japanese.

What’s top on my shopping list is getting my hands on a leather jacket. There’s a couple of labels that I’m looking at. It’s my first time getting a rider jacket and getting something that’s of the right fit would be high on my list than the label itself. I would also prefer a pre-owned piece if I could find the right one. There’s nothing better than having someone breaking in the jacket for you, vintage styled jackets should have that vintage looks.

The styling that I’m looking for is a single collar rider or what Schott would call it a Trucker. While there’s a love for the double breasted iconic Perfecto, I just find that I couldn’t quite carry it.

Labels that I’m eyeing after researching and scoring through fromjapan.co.jp which covers Rakuten, Yahoo Auction and resellers. Not in any order of preference:

Schott NYC Japan

https://www.us-onlinestore.com/all/item/leather/jacket/7823150025.html?dwvar_7823150025_color=010

I failed to land one when I was in US so upon seeing that Schott Japan does them for Asian fitting with a horsehide version(not Shinki, verified in-store).

Freewheelers Mulholland or Bodie

https://speedwaysendai.com/collections/leather/products/2131001

https://speedwaysendai.com/collections/leather/products/2031009

This seems like the grail single collar rider and it would just not be right if it’s not included. Personally, preference is Bodie over Mulholland cause I prefer side pockets without zippers and the back’s waist level belt and yoke giving it more structure and defined silhouette.

The Flathead

https://www.flat-head.com/fn-lj-hs005/

https://www.flat-head.com/fn-lj-hs004/

https://www.flat-head.com/fn-lj-hs001/

Seems like Flathead is kicking off with some new designs (first 2 links above) with slight variation to their standard design. Difference is the yoke and belt at the back, a change to silver metal parts as well as brown stitching. The most expensive being the one with the quilted design sides making it both fancier and unique.

The Real McCoy’s

https://therealmccoys.jp/products/bj17101/030-blk

https://therealmccoys.jp/products/mj19115/030-blk

https://therealmccoys.jp/products/mj14152/030-blk

The above 3 Real McCoy’s came into my radar and it seems like they have a lot more choices when it comes to leather jackets in style and designs.

Plan for shopping day to hit all the stores at one go is as below from Shibuya station. You can plan it from the Harajuku station as well.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/5sBBLks1naaT1tsq5?g_st=ic

A. Schott
B. Flathead
C. Real McCoy’s
D. Speedway

Once I know the jacket and sizing I’m after, I would look to see if there are any pre-owned that I’ve earmarked as available and place the order. If not I’ll just buy new and break it in myself. Two of these second hand or 中古 shops that I’ve visited and found to be good are Ragtag and 2nd Street. They have branches all over Japan and more often than not, the item you want might be in another prefecture. So trying on might not be possible and delivery to where I’m staying is the only option.

Above was my plan and as how life is, it’s like a box of chocolate. Lol !!!

I’m a slight build Asian, standing at 170cm and 60kg.

First stop was Schott, nice store that’s big and spacious. The store is L shape and the prized leather jackets are on the inside hidden from the main store front. Great service as like all Japanese stores and they can converse well in English. The sales guy handed me cowhide size 36 to try. I only had a T and TAD Praetorian hoodie underneath it and was really tight fitting. Tight till I have to suck in my breath to zip up the jacket. Length wise it was OK. Size 38 was sold out so tried on a 38 Perfecto my son was trying on instead, fit was just alright. As suspected, I can’t carry it as confirmed by my wife, son and daughter all shaking their head telling me “No !!!”. Son could carry it though but he finds it too “fierce” looking for his style.

The nice sales guy brought out a Trucker that’s size 38 but it’s already reserved by another customer. I tried it on and find that there’s too much too and kinda drapes on me. Checking with the sales guy if cow hides will stretch and expand slightly from wear and he firmly told me no. It will soften with creases but will not stretch or expand.

Next stop, The Flathead. Much smaller store but it’s 2 level, did not go up to the upper level. There’s only one store manager running the whole place so you might have to wait if there is another customer being served. Communication was an issue as he spoke only minimal English.

Took the below design off the rack and it’s a size 40, I asked for a 38 to try on.

https://www.flat-head.com/fn-lj-hs005/

The store manager went to the back of the store and brought out the size 38 and upon putting it on. It was love at first sight !

The fit was between the Size 36 and 38 of the Schott and has a more tapered to the waist profile. Length I have the sleeve at the top half of my hands and a inch or two below my belt.

The store manager was particular about no bending of the arms to avoid creases or wrinkles to the sleeves. He was ok with the lifting of my arms for me to test for mobility.

Checked with the family and they agreed that this is better than the Schott I’ve tried.

In his limited English, the store manager shared that there is also the quilted design version.

https://www.flat-head.com/fn-lj-hs004/

For the 2 new designs, he emphasised repeatedly that only one piece per size is available in Japan. He also asked if I wanted to try on the quilted design version which I declined. It’s on the fancier side to my liking. I prefer understated design leaving it’s quality, workmanship and cut to speak for itself than stand out designs shouting out that I’m different.

Showed the store manager my Flathead wallet which I bought from Corlection. He was both surprised and very appreciative to see it.
Confirmed my purchase and he worked out the 10% tax refund for tourist. Smart guy as when my wife came asking how much issit. He kept that conversation really hush hush and showing me the numbers on his calculator away from the view of my wife. Lol !!!

I‘ve never had anyone thank me so much and bow repeatedly so many times from making a purchase. The store manager even made me promised to visit him again in a years time. I think he is genuinely keen to see how their creation would age and patina upon wear over time. Bought their leather wax as well and he took real pains in explaining the appropriate care needed on reapplying the wax.

In Japan, you don’t bargain for discount. Prices are fixed and what they can offer, they will automatically do so. So all I got was just a small tote bag.

Skipped the other 2 stops since I got what I wanted and saved the time for the family to shop.

Review from wearing the jacket for a really short time. It’s thick, heavy and stiff. Glossy with a wet look and not shiny like how PVC leather are. It softens and creases fast at the elbows turning buttery just from a day of wear. The new zippers can be kinda sharp scratching the hand. Freedom of movement without feeling constricted even when fully zipped up. Worn it at between 3-10’celsius with just a Tshirt, you’ll not feel warm or insulated but you’ll not feel hot when you’re indoors either. Leather is a breathable material and I think this helps when you’re indoors, at least I was able to have a Yakiniku meal without sweating in it. For real warmth, you’ll need a middle layer like a hoodie underneath to do the trick.

Great feeling when I was paying for my Yakiniku dinner. The young guy manning the cashier complimented that it’s a very nice.

Pardon the crappy pics, wasn’t able to find a mirror with better lightings.

 

[Blackadder]

In Japan, you don’t bargain for discount. Prices are fixed and what they can offer, they will automatically do so. So all I got was just a small tote bag.

It depends on what you mean by bargain. I was offered a 10% discount when I sort of frown after learning that there is no tax refund at a shop (could that be counted as automatically, don't know). My fd and I have managed to talk RM owner's son into giving us a further discount on already 50% off items. If you offer to pay cash, some stores may give a small discount. This still works as they are mostly brick and mortar shops.
You usually don't ask straight up about discount. Get friendly and make conversation before asking. My fd got a small discount at Barnstomer. He had exchanged email with the owner before we arrived at Tokyo. Sometimes you get a token gift like OP. We got denim calenders, stickers and badges from shops like Lee, Schott, Dry Bones etc. We were given some Lightning magazines at RM stores.
And people do bargain at the many vintage stores. I have seen a customer getting a deal on a 50s vintage Lee Stormrider. My experience is that you do not do that in one of those stores which flip limited edition NOS sneakers.

 

[navetsea]

merry xmas, very interesting to read writeup and congrats on the trip and jacket