The Flat Head Cafe Racer Fit Opinions

[singer]

I really like that jacket, though. It's something a bit different.

I really like to too! I forgot to mention I'm going to pop by the shop to give it another look and see if I can work something w/ trying on the smaller size.

 

[technovox]

I really like to too! I forgot to mention I'm going to pop by the shop to give it another look and see if I can work something w/ trying on the smaller size.

I believe they also carry the Kensington cafe racer in Shinki, by Himel (at least they used to carry it.) You might give that one a try as well, just to get a feel for his work.
I'll be down the street at Ritual tomorrow morning, maybe I'll pop by and check out what they have in stock. I haven't been to Self Edge in a while.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I believe they also carry the Kensington cafe racer in Shinki, by Himel (at least they used to carry it.) You might give that one a try as well, just to get a feel for his work.
I'll be down the street at Ritual tomorrow morning, maybe I'll pop by and check out what they have in stock. I haven't been to Self Edge in a while.

Self edge no longer carries himel jackets. They haven't since the first run. They have flat head and buzz rickson leathers right now

 

[technovox]

Self edge no longer carries himel jackets. They haven't since the first run. They have flat head and buzz rickson leathers right now

Thanks for the clarification. I really haven't been to Self Edge in a long time.

 

[handymike]

Freewheelers & Bootleggers do beautiful jackets in Shinki too!

 

[Benj]

If it'd help, I'd be happy to post the photos of me in that jacket, 40 and 38.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Thanks for the clarification. I really haven't been to Self Edge in a long time.

Yeah its a shame I wish they still had them. I had to try on my himel for fit at inspiration.

Ben do it!

 

[singer]

Freewheelers & Bootleggers do beautiful jackets in Shinki too!

Yes! I spent a few weeks creating a little collage of photos when researching my first light leather jacket. Some things on that list:

• I almost bought an RMC A-1. I love the look, but decided it might be better as a later purchase. Summer weight jacket, just appears a bit more bulky, and I think a jacket bit lighter weight in appearance would be a better first buy...especially since it's pretty warm here already (looks a bit odd wearing what seems like a puffier coat vs basically a leather wind jacket). Compared to the A-1, this Flat Head racer fit seems quite slim and sleek
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I really like the RMC 37J1 in cape skin. That could fit the bill, just a different, softer look, and I'd still want a Shinki.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Himel Heron looks awesome, but I'm thinking probably better as a 2nd or 3rd coat rather than the staple for every day wear. A-1 inspired, but definitely slimmer looking.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Freewheelers. Love so many of their coats. Getting sizing right might be a gamble. Top of my list is the FW Dust Bowl. Seems similar to my eye to the Himel Canuck (even though FW's railroad jacket is actually the Brakeman)--but with a simpler front and back. It's just that the wool lining and longer length makes it less of a light jacket option, but would also love to have it as an additional jacket [/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]This Flat Head for a Racer/Half Belt style, which is one of the top that has caught my eye[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Frobisher half belt--I have officially reached out to Himel so I'm waiting to hear back. Hmm, of all of these, probably the most plain/conventional looking.[/FONT]

If it'd help, I'd be happy to post the photos of me in that jacket, 40 and 38.

Yes that would be awesome!

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Yes! I spent a few weeks creating a little collage of photos when researching my first light leather jacket. Some things on that list:

• I almost bought an RMC A-1. I love the look, but decided it might be better as a later purchase. Summer weight jacket, just appears a bit more bulky, and I think a jacket bit lighter weight in appearance would be a better first buy...especially since it's pretty warm here already (looks a bit odd wearing what seems like a puffier coat vs basically a leather wind jacket). Compared to the A-1, this Flat Head racer fit seems quite slim and sleek
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I really like the RMC 37J1 in cape skin. That could fit the bill, just a different, softer look, and I'd still want a Shinki.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Himel Heron looks awesome, but I'm thinking probably better as a 2nd or 3rd coat rather than the staple for every day wear. A-1 inspired, but definitely slimmer looking.[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Freewheelers. Love so many of their coats. Getting sizing right might be a gamble. Top of my list is the FW Dust Bowl. Seems similar to my eye to the Himel Canuck (even though FW's railroad jacket is actually the Brakeman)--but with a simpler front and back. It's just that the wool lining and longer length makes it less of a light jacket option, but would also love to have it as an additional jacket [/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]This Flat Head for a Racer/Half Belt style, which is one of the top that has caught my eye[/FONT]
• [FONT=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Frobisher half belt--I have officially reached out to Himel so I'm waiting to hear back. Hmm, of all of these, probably the most plain/conventional looking.[/FONT]

Yes that would be awesome!

Your taste is incredible. Nothing but the best makers there! Only one missing is Goodwear. You're doing it right from the start.

 

[Benj]

Here you go. Sorry for the bad pics!

40

38

 

[singer]

Here you go. Sorry for the bad pics!

That was super helpful! I have a feeling both pretty much would fit me the same way. On you, the 40 looks a bit more relaxed/comfortable with some extra room. The 38 fits pretty much perfectly, except the sleeves are a bit short. Could be fine wearing short sleeves. I feel like my long sleeve shirts (what I wear most of the time) would go beyond the jacket sleeve a bit. The jacket sleeve is a bit above the top of the thumb bone/wrist, and I think it would be similar on me as well.

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Self Edge did offer to transfer a 38 from another location. I don't think that will be necessary because I don't think I can pull off that sleeve length.

I'll try on the 40 one more time and give the fit a closer look. Thank you![/FONT]

 

[singer]

I went back to try on the Flat Head Cafe Racer with a closer look. Some takeaways:

• First of all, the jacket is spectacular, truly a fine jacket, in what seems like a heavy, black tea-core Shinki.
• The fit: I believe this size 40 is the right size for me, at least for Flat Head. They mentioned that the head of...Flat Head really likes the broad shouldered look, so they make them wider than most (that, or they only cater to slim body builders). I do believe this is the way it’s supposed to look. There is a bit of extra room, but it’s within range. If I went smaller, the sleeves would be too short. The buckled neck is a good fit as well.
• I think this is just a bulkier pattern. The arms are bigger, and it has a bi-swing back. It’s actually a similar cut to my current Johnson Leather rider jacket, which I always though was bulker/and heavier than I would prefer now.
• It’s a heavier/bulkier jacket than I remember. Perhaps it’s because Flat Head uses heavier Shinki? I have seem some people mention that it’s stiffer/heavier. They state it’s 1.3mm thick, where most Shinki I see listed as 1.1-1.2mm thick. That would mean this jacket could be up to 20% heavier than a similar RMC or Himel Shinki. It is much lighter than my cumbersome Johnson Leather jacket, but still heavy. Heavy enough that I might hesitate to wear it frequently.

Given that I’m looking for a lighter weight jacket (but Shinki), I’m wondering if I should opt for a simpler style.

• @Benj , do you remember if your Buco j-100 feels lighter than this Flat Head Jacket? Given your mild CA climate, if you started over, would you get that Buco, this Flat Head, or something else? (Let’s pretend there’s no budget considerations.)
• Is a j-100 style that much lighter than a 1/2 belt, bi-swing back style? I feel like the weight of the leather probably matters most, followed by the pattern. It would be nice to have a lighter jacket that is also Shinki—I’m thinking more wind shirt-like than jacket-like.
• I wonder if a jacket like @Superfluous 's Shinki Frobisher would feel much lighter. To me, it looks a bit more sleek/fitted than this particular flat head. The back has a single action pleat in the middle, the arms seems slimmer, no sleeve zips, and possibly lighter/more supple Shinki.

I initially dismissed the Buco j-100 because it seemed like a lot of zippers to me. But I love the simple back and the overall slimness. The style is growing on me though as a lot of people on this forum look great in that jacket.

Perhaps I’m over-thinking it, but in my quest for a lighter in style & weight Shinki jacket, perhaps I can do better with:

1. Himel Frobisher
2. Himel Pinecrest. I hadn’t noticed this one before. Sort of a racer style. I prefer the Buco collar to the tab collar on the Pinecrest. And the simpler Buco back. And I don’t love the elbow pads. The the Pinecrest has zips in the inside of the sleeve.
3. Buco J-100. I’d probably do RMC if I want an accurate reproduction and just get over my initial unfamiliarity w/ the style. I also like @technovox 's Diamond Dave Buco J-100 with the brass hardware. (From whom I learned you can look great wearing brown shoes w/ a black tea-core jacket).

What do you all think?



For comparison, my heavy heavy Johnson Leather jacket:

 

[Superfluous]

The RMC J-100 and the Himel Frobisher are both lighter than the FH J-100.

 

[Benj]

Flat head's leather is definitely heavier, but in my opinion it is not really worth agonizing over, it's not going to be significantly warmer or less suited to the Ca climate than any other leather jacket (which is already too much practically!)

Actually, I'd argue that if you want wearability Flat Head's jackets are a far better option than the RMC J-100. I found it extremely uncomfortable because the arms are so slim and the armholes are so high. I've never had a problem with arms in clothing except for the J-100. As you've noticed, Flat head jackets have large arms. I love it because it's just so comfortable to wear, and the leather has a great body to it but thanks to the cut doesn't restrict at all.

I'd recommend against the J-100, I think that it fits the very slim asian body type a lot better than us westerners.

 

[singer]

Flat head's leather is definitely heavier, but in my opinion it is not really worth agonizing over, it's not going to be significantly warmer or less suited to the Ca climate than any other leather jacket (which is already too much practically!)

Actually, I'd argue that if you want wearability Flat Head's jackets are a far better option than the RMC J-100. I found it extremely uncomfortable because the arms are so slim and the armholes are so high. I've never had a problem with arms in clothing except for the J-100. As you've noticed, Flat head jackets have large arms. I love it because it's just so comfortable to wear, and the leather has a great body to it but thanks to the cut doesn't restrict at all.

I'd recommend against the J-100, I think that it fits the very slim asian body type a lot better than us westerners.

That's very good to know. I just noticed on the Good Wear sale page John is offering a DD J-100 based jacket, but with a bi-swing back for this very reason it seems:

Yes, I'm probably agonizing too much over it. Very close to buying the Flat Head.

But...Himel got back to me yesterday and I decided to go forward with a custom Frobisher. It will look very different than the FH: a dress collar, brown leather. I expect it to be slightly lighter weight. I believe it will be just a bit trimmer looking in the back. A bit closer to what I initially had in mind.

So this will be my 1/2 belt, leaving some room for a 2nd cafe racer w/ a simple back and a mandarin collar, in a darker color. So basically following @Seb Lucas 's advice. Who knows, I may get the FH anyway while I wait

Thanks for the helpful fit advice!

 

[Monitor]

That's very good to know. I just noticed on the Good Wear sale page John is offering a DD J-100 based jacket, but with a bi-swing back for this very reason it seems:

Brooks, Reed, Beck, Kehoe, Sears, etc. based jacket. Not J-100. Buco didn't invent this style! >_<;

 

[singer]

Brooks, Reed, Beck, Kehoe, Sears, etc. based jacket. Not J-100. Buco didn't invent this style! >_<;

Oh, I was just going by what John wrote about the jacket:

This jacket is a new format of racer, style with a J-100 pattern, but with a pleated back...

This jacket is made by Diamond Clothing Co., and is built from the base pattern that Diamond and Good Wear share from an original Buco J-100 in our collection.

 

[Monitor]

Oh, I was just going by what John wrote about the jacket:

Oh... Right. ^ ^; It's still more Kehoe than Buco. Even the collar's Kehoe.

 

[technovox]

Oh... Right. ^ ^; It's still more Kehoe than Buco. Even the collar's Kehoe.

Oh yes- Kehoes are very dear to my heart. One of the first cafe racers I picked up, and perfect weight for SF weather. The suppleness of the leather is absolutely a thing of beauty. And they're still very much under the radar in price.
Although the back and the sleeve zip placement look similar to John's, the collar is a bit different from a Kehoe. Reminds me of an early Lesco collar.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Great choice! I tried on a frobisher at inspiration and was very impressed. I may have pulled the trigger if it wasn't for the grizzly. What leather did you go with?