The elusive block and flange

[tonyb]

Where to buy a new block and flange? I want a No. 52 block (I think) to achieve that tall, straight-sided crown so many of us seem so partial to. I believe there's another block number that's so similar as to be essentially the same thing, or so I've been told.
There must be several million hats I'd gladly wear if only I could take the taper out of their crowns (I already own several of them), and about that many just awaiting a resizing.
I've tried eBay several times, but the blocks that looked like they might suit my purposes went to higher bidders. And eBay is always a gamble, right?
So who makes blocks new? Are they as serviceable as the antique ones? And what's the going rate these days?
As to size: I assume that the block size corresponds to the finished hat size, meaning that it would be somewhat larger than the hat size so as to allow room for the sweatband. Is that right? And doesn't that mean that to properly block a hat you would first remove the sweatband (and perhaps the ribbon) and sew it back in after the blocking?

 

[Aaron Hats]

Be prepared to shell out some big bucks. There's a US company called LaMode but can't find a website for them. Check Hat Life for their phone number or I can get it tomorrow.

Check out The Hat Site for UK sources of hat blocks and flanges.

Aaron

 

[johnnycanuck]

I came across this web page some time back. But, as of yet, have not ordered one yet.
http://www.hatshapers.com/

Johnny

 

[tonyb]

Thanks Aaron and Johnny. And, to point out something to myself that I should have thought about before I made the post that started this thread: If I take out the sweatband, I'd pretty much have to remove the ribbon, right? Seeing how the ribbon covers the stitching that secures the sweatband to the body, correct?

 

[Jerekson]

I would assume as much.

 

[Brad Bowers]

Aaron, tonyb, and all,

Here's the website for LaMode: http://www.lamodewoodhatblocks.com/index.htm

These are laminated blocks, not a solid chunk like the blocks of yore, so they require extra care in the long run. But if you're only doing a few hats now and again, it shouldn't be a problem.

tonyb, depending on the width of your ribbon, I suppose you could just remove any stitches along the bottom edge, and carefully scrunch the ribbon up to sew the sweat back in, but it's usually best to just take off the ribbon while you're working on the hat.

If you buy a block that's the next size down from what you wear, you can leave the sweatband in to do a quickie reblock for maintenance purposes. Keep in mind that all size 7 1/2 #52 hat blocks (or any same size blocks, for that matter) are not necessarily the same circumference. Just as in hats, actual block sizes varied between manufacturers. One of the blocks I picked up, a 7 1/2, I think, turned out to be more like a 7 1/4.

Brad

 

[Art Fawcett]

The elusive block and flange

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Where to buy a new block and flange? I want a No. 52 block (I think) to achieve that tall, straight-sided crown so many of us seem so partial to. I believe there's another block number that's so similar as to be essentially the same thing, or so I've been told.

You're right Tony, the #52 and 952 are the same block, different mfgr

So who makes blocks new? Are they as serviceable as the antique ones? And what's the going rate these days?

The most reasonable I've found it Fred Rabb in Pa. He has a wabsite. About $125 per block, don't know about flanges.

As to size: I assume that the block size corresponds to the finished hat size, meaning that it would be somewhat larger than the hat size so as to allow room for the sweatband. Is that right?

Yes and no, there are some hatters that can C&B a hat with the sweat still in it but I've never liked the results so I always remove the sweat.

And doesn't that mean that to properly block a hat you would first remove the sweatband (and perhaps the ribbon) and sew it back in after the blocking?

yup

 

[T Jones]

Fred's Hat Blocks

Anybody ever hear of "Fred's Hat Blocks"? Evidently, he makes wooden hat blocks of various kinds and shapes...

http://www.fredraab.com/hatblocks/

 

[tonyb]

Man, talk about resurrecting old threads. What we've learned in seven-plus years, eh?

 

[tonyb]

Among the things I've learned since then is to snap up the equipment when it becomes available at anything that might be called a reasonable price, and to buy in bulk. I have many blocks and flanges I have never once used, and many that I have.

Also, blocks can be fabricated new by any person who knows his way around a wood shop. I had one -- a very large No. 52 copy -- made for my shop not so long ago.

 

[RBH]

These old threads are full of great information.

 

[T Jones]

Where to buy a new block and flange? I want a No. 52 block (I think) to achieve that tall, straight-sided crown so many of us seem so partial to. I believe there's another block number that's so similar as to be essentially the same thing, or so I've been told.
There must be several million hats I'd gladly wear if only I could take the taper out of their crowns (I already own several of them), and about that many just awaiting a resizing.
I've tried eBay several times, but the blocks that looked like they might suit my purposes went to higher bidders. And eBay is always a gamble, right?
So who makes blocks new? Are they as serviceable as the antique ones? And what's the going rate these days?
As to size: I assume that the block size corresponds to the finished hat size, meaning that it would be somewhat larger than the hat size so as to allow room for the sweatband. Is that right? And doesn't that mean that to properly block a hat you would first remove the sweatband (and perhaps the ribbon) and sew it back in after the blocking?

Can you get a straight sided #52 block at 6 1/2 inches tall? I have a couple of tall tapered crowned Resistol Stagecoaches that I want to reblock to straight sided crowns.

 

[John Galt]

Hat block makers & sellers:

http://hatblockresource.wordpress.com/hat-block-makers-sellers/

I'm assuming you want to do this yourself. What size do you want, and what height?

 

[T Jones]

Hat block makers & sellers:

http://hatblockresource.wordpress.com/hat-block-makers-sellers/

I'm assuming you want to do this yourself. What size do you want, and what height?

I'd definitely love to have some blocks and flanges and other stuff to work with. But, my pockets are too deep and my arms are too short to reach the change at the bottom. I may be sending you a couple Resistols to do for me if you happen to have a block like that.

 

[tonyb]

Can you get a straight sided #52 block at 6 1/2 inches tall? I have a couple of tall tapered crowned Resistol Stagecoaches that I want to reblock to straight sided crowns.

Well, there's straight-sided and then there's straight-sided. Even what we think of as straight-sided blocks (the No. 52, for instance) taper a bit. But creasing can take out that taper and even introduce a bit of reverse taper. (There are other tricks for getting reverse taper, which I'll keep to myself.)

A 6 1/2-inch block is indeed quite tall. (I happen to have a couple-three, only one of which I recall ever using.) The modern hatter, who doesn't have his choice of a dozen suppliers of blocks and flanges at his disposal, as his predecessors of 60 or 70 or 80 years back did, sometimes has to improvise. Need a taller block for a one-off hat? Add an inch to the bottom by tracing the outline of the block's bottom onto a 1-inch board, cut it out, sand the edge, and tack it to the bottom of the block. The hatter is in for a bit more hand work, as the block with that addition tacked onto it won't fit onto any of the machinery that way, but he can indeed make the hat. For lesser additions, I've built up layers of waxed cardboard.

For the avid hobbyist, I say hit eBay and wait for that "right" block to pop up and be prepared to pay, knowing that you'll not likely be the only one really wanting that block. But be selective, because it's false economy to sink dough into blocks which cost less but won't get you what you really want.

 

[John Galt]

Good advice all the way around Tony! Thank you!

 

[Joshbru3]

Well, there's straight-sided and then there's straight-sided. Even what we think of as straight-sided blocks (the No. 52, for instance) taper a bit. But creasing can take out that taper and even introduce a bit of reverse taper. (There are other tricks for getting reverse taper, which I'll keep to myself.)

I tell ya, I used to think 52 blocks were the straightest sided blocks one could find........until I bought a couple "Columbia" blocks. My Columbia blocks, no matter what size, and how tall, are the straightest and flat topped blocks one could find. (Unless you buy the actual flat topped and straight sided short blocks often used for short boxy boater/panama crowns.)

There is a phenomenon within 52 blocks as well. Because many hat block manufactures produced 52 profile blocks, there is slight variation within the 52 blocks as well. I have noticed that some have a rounder shoulder than others. Nothing too significant, but enough to make a difference when a certain creases is desired.

 

[TheDane]

Blocks were quite different from company to company. "National Hatters Supply Co." marketed their #52 block as "No. 52 Columbia - An old standby for the full crown hat". Life ain't easy

 

[Joshbru3]

Blocks were quite different from company to company. "National Hatters Supply Co." marketed their #52 block as "No. 52 Columbia - An old standby for the full crown hat". Life ain't easy

I have seen that as well, but many block manufactures designated a difference between 52 and Columbia. If you have ever seen a Columbia and a 52, they are most definitely not the same. Perhaps National Hatters Supply Co was one of those companies who produced the very straight shouldered 52 blocks, but other manufactured 52 blocks I own which have rounder shoulders could not be confused for a Columbia.

 

[TheDane]

If you have ever seen a Columbia and a 52, they are most definitely not the same

Yes, companies were different - as were their products. Even blocks from the same company differs ... it was long before CAM/CNC. Who made the "true" #52 - and who made the "true" Columbia? I haven't got a clue