The Conversion Corral

[John Galt]

What do you fellows use for sweatband stickers? I used to use 3M paper packing tape because it was very durable & very sticky, but it is not nearly as good as it used to be. Although still very sticky, it is now plasticized, and seems to pull up much more on my packages for some reason. I think I need a new product, because I don't want that happening on my hats. I've used colored (cloth) duct tape with success, but it is too gummy to sew easily.

I've been looking at book binding tape and athletic tape, with the book binding tape the preferred choice. Any suggestions for products?

 

[T Jones]

Thanks T, its a nice color for sure but a real challenge choosing a ribbon color that works well, at least for me that is.

The Whiskey color looks to be pretty versatile. It seems to me like there would be so many different ribbon colors to choose from. You're right. That would definitely be a challenge to find the one which works best.

 

[TheDane]

What do you fellows use for sweatband stickers?

I'm not sure, what you mean ... tape for the back-seam, or ...?

 

[John Galt]

Yes Olė, for the back seam...

 

[mayserwegener]

IMO opinion a raw edge should have a sharp edge. The sharper the better.

The binding stitching is off. Here is what top quality binding work should look like.

Also issues with the brim flange and blocking. Overall form is off. I see this with many custom hats. Also issues with finish, ribbon / bow work.

For example this a factory made hat (mid 1950s) but close to flawless (close-up) overall workmanship.

 

[TheDane]

The adhesive on duct/gaffa tape can be quite aggressive. I wouldn't like to use that on a sweatband. I have used a piece of 1/2" thin seam-tape, glued on with hot hare(rabbit)-glue. Cheap hide-glue will be too stiff/brittle, but hare-glue is more flexible - especially if you add a few drops of glycerine to a small pot (mine is appr. 0.2 liter/quart).

I'm not sure, if hot glue or rubber cement was used for this purpose, but I do know hare-glue was used for many leather related jobs in the early 20th century. It could very well have been used for sweatbands too, and it do seem to work great.

 

[TheDane]

IMO opinion a raw edge should have a sharp edge. The sharper the better.

- and I prefere a bevelled/rounded raw edge. The rounder, the better. That looks a lot "more finished" to me. I agree on the rest

 

[Joshbru3]

And it really is a matter of preference......I have experienced both type of edges on vintage lids. I have owned vintage Stetsons where the brim was cut and put in the box. There wasn't any sanding on the edge. It was sharp and 90 degrees. I have also owned vintage Stetsons where the edge was sanded and more rounded. I really didn't prefer one or the other....but BOTH were cut evenly. There is nothing worse and more annoying than a brim edge with sharp "corners" and uneven cutting!

 

[mayserwegener]

Josh, Your last point is spot on. That is what attracts me to a near flawless sharp raw edge.

 

[TheDane]

And it really is a matter of preference

- exactly my point

I'm not fond of a clean cut edge due to the difference in surface texture. To me the edge seems "naked" and unintersting, like an over-sawn polished mahogany tabletop - but I absolutely respect, others may think otherwise.

 

[mayserwegener]

Later I will show an example of what I really like. It's combination of flange and sharp raw edge.The brim stiffness is also a factor.

 

[John Galt]

- exactly my point

I'm not fond of a clean cut edge due to the difference in surface texture. To me the edge seems "naked" and unintersting, like an over-sawn polished mahogany tabletop - but I absolutely respect, others may think otherwise.

This is a matter of personal preference, certainly.

Personally, a sharp cut raw edge to me is like a room with no trim - it looks to me as if the hatter could not be bothered to finish the job. Brim binding, sanding, sewn binding, Cavanagh, etc. doesn't matter much to me. I just want a _finished_ edge. That, to me, is "correct."

 

[mayserwegener]

Sorry I don't follow that logic but you are entitled to it.

Here is what I am talking about. Not all raw edges are created equal.

 

[John Galt]

Those are indeed poorly executed and a very well executed raw edges, respectively. I will admit that the second edge does look very sharp & very "finished." That's what I get for having preconceptions.

 

[TheDane]

Steve, that's without any doubt a fantastic piece of work - I'm just not fond of the style. To me it's like a tone without vibrato ... too "sterile", so to speak

 

[T Jones]

- and I prefere a bevelled/rounded raw edge. The rounder, the better. That looks a lot "more finished" to me. I agree on the rest

what's the technique you would use to get that bevelled raw edge? Although I do like the sharp raw edge brim that mayserwegener showed too. I guess one or the other would depend on which would look best for a particular hat.

 

[TheDane]

what's the technique you would use to get that bevelled edge?

Pouncing the edges after the cut.

PS: Special machines were made for a bevelled cut, but that's outside my reach. I only know them from my hat-patent-hunts

 

[alanfgag]

Stetson Tailored Edge, circa 1940:

 

[TheDane]

Stetson Tailored Edge, circa 1940

Now, that's a lot more "musically" in my mind

 

[mayserwegener]

Those are indeed poorly executed and a very well executed raw edges, respectively. I will admit that the second edge does look very sharp & very "finished." That's what I get for having preconceptions.

The first photo is the same edge but straight on. The execution of the cut is pretty much perfect.