The Cap Faction

[DNO]

That Crown Caps flat cap looks great DNO. It's got a bit more flair about it than the average flatcap. Nice colour too.

Thanks Adnamira. I like the colour as well but I think I still prefer a nice newsboy.

 

[Adnamira]

Thanks Adnamira. I like the colour as well but I think I still prefer a nice newsboy.

Sometimes it is nice to go for a trimmer style for a change. I quite like the more oversized Ivy caps like Kangol's Hudson (too bad about their crappy fabrics) and the Wigenses. Even that Crown Cap is an improvement on the British style flat caps, which just seem a bit stingy and unexciting to me. Does the Crown Cap have snaps on the brim or stitched?

 

[DNO]

Sometimes it is nice to go for a trimmer style for a change. I quite like the more oversized Ivy caps like Kangol's Hudson (too bad about their crappy fabrics) and the Wigenses. Even that Crown Cap is an improvement on the British style flat caps, which just seem a bit stingy and unexciting to me. Does the Crown Cap have snaps on the brim or stitched?

One snap on the brim. Wore it tonight on my evening walk. It was certainly comfortable enough.

 

[Adnamira]

One snap on the brim. Wore it tonight on my evening walk. It was certainly comfortable enough.

A lot of newsboys almost don't need snaps, because of the extra fabric, but I think they are good on Ivy caps as they differentiate the brim from the crown more and it looks better that way to me.

 

[Woodfluter]

Mention having been made of City Sport caps, thought I'd show two of them that I recently acquired. I am very impressed.
I plan to get maybe two more sometime when the sizes and fabrics are right.





The one on the left is model 420, 11" diameter, blue/navy/white Donegal tweed.
The one on the right is model 20, 9" diameter, brown Harris tweed.

Here's how the larger one looks on head:



That's the closest I've seen to the classic shape of the larger, flatter 8/4 caps seen in period photos. This Belgian outfit has been in business since 1898 and appears to have retained some of the older styles, gauging from the vintage photos on their website.

An interesting feature is the attachment of the crown front to the brim. Rather than one or two snaps, they use three tack sewn points, right through the brim (discreet but seemingly strong). With the larger diameter cap, this seems to stabilize it well and keep it from flopping off to one side. Now if you want it to flop, guess you'd have to snip two of the stitched points. But I really prefer this.

 

[Hepville]

Well I guess it´s time to write something about my newsboy caps.
First of all I would like to thank Mario for spreading the word. Thanks to Gersende and Frank who already bought a cap... and of course thanks to every body who is willing to buy some.

I have listings on Ebay and Etsy. On Etsy I do offer the caps for international shipping. The shipping fee for international shipping is 6,50€ as a registered letter and the caps are packed in air cushion envelope.

Right now I have four Harris Tweeds in stock. Two are already listed on Etsy and two are going to be listed.
I offer them as made-to-order with a timeframe of about one week (five working days) from buying to shipping.
I may have to enlarge this timeframe because by next week I´m moving to another city here in Germany and will start an education as a gents custom tailor... so I do the cap making as a side business to have a few bucks more for my personal needs... and I have to see how I work my way into those new daily routines.

Those Harris Tweeds are such lovely fabrics to work with!!!
I have a huge set of swatches here and they´re all great. In theory spoken I can do my caps in all of those fabrics but I can´t effort to go in advance payment to offer e.g. 10 different colours/ pattern at once.
There are some very fine plaid fabrics too (I will post a sample picture of a cap I´ve made for me) but I can´t offer those at the price of 49,90€ because you can´t make the same amount of caps from those fabrics If you want to set the panels properly... and otherwise it will look bad.

So I hope nobody is affected by my "house advertising". If someone has more questions please feel free to contact me.

Bela

 

[Adnamira]

You've done a good job with those photos, Woodfluter. I was a little sceptical reading that they had a 11" diameter in some of their caps, but now I am a believer! They seem to have a wide range of models - they look fairly contemporary caps but with a bit more of a vintage flavour than Stetson or Wigens. Some may prefer leather sweatbands and cotton linings, but I'm getting the impression City Sport caps are very good value. That song 'I've Got the Tune' by Chinese Man that they have on their website is appropriate - modern dub of a vintage style.

 

[Adnamira]

The House Advertising is fine by me, Hepville. We are all here searching for fine caps, so it's all good. Harris Tweed is a remarkable thing indeed - I hope those sheep farmers in the outer herbrides are getting more than $3/kg or whatever that it is in pounds/pounds for their wool. Wool is pretty much a by-product for sheep farmers these days, unless you have Merinos. Pity, since you can only eat a sheep once, but you can shear it many times - super renewable resource. Caps are a wonderful way to make these fabrics accessible to people in an affordable way. Even me, and I am a woolgrower, have only recently realised what a wonderful textural stuff Harris and Donegal tweeds are. So good on you for using these fabrics and making nice caps.

Gawd, I've talked a lot. I should shut-up for a while! Nice to see so much activity on the cap faction though.

 

[wintergreen]

Another City Sport silk cap.
This time showing the lightweight cotton lining which makes it ideal for summer.
The silk caps are very light and soft and so comfortable to wear.

 

[SpeedRcrX]

Well I guess it´s time to write something about my newsboy caps.
First of all I would like to thank Mario for spreading the word. Thanks to Gersende and Frank who already bought a cap... and of course thanks to every body who is willing to buy some.

I have listings on Ebay and Etsy. On Etsy I do offer the caps for international shipping. The shipping fee for international shipping is 6,50€ as a registered letter and the caps are packed in air cushion envelope.

Right now I have four Harris Tweeds in stock. Two are already listed on Etsy and two are going to be listed.
I offer them as made-to-order with a timeframe of about one week (five working days) from buying to shipping.
I may have to enlarge this timeframe because by next week I´m moving to another city here in Germany and will start an education as a gents custom tailor... so I do the cap making as a side business to have a few bucks more for my personal needs... and I have to see how I work my way into those new daily routines.

Those Harris Tweeds are such lovely fabrics to work with!!!
I have a huge set of swatches here and they´re all great. In theory spoken I can do my caps in all of those fabrics but I can´t effort to go in advance payment to offer e.g. 10 different colours/ pattern at once.
There are some very fine plaid fabrics too (I will post a sample picture of a cap I´ve made for me) but I can´t offer those at the price of 49,90€ because you can´t make the same amount of caps from those fabrics If you want to set the panels properly... and otherwise it will look bad.

So I hope nobody is affected by my "house advertising". If someone has more questions please feel free to contact me.

Bela

You deserve the shout out, your caps are wonderful. I have mine for one week and wear it every days. It's becoming my favorite cap!

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

I had read some where that the city sport caps run small
How are yours?

 

[Hepville]

You deserve the shout out, your caps are wonderful. I have mine for one week and wear it every days. It's becoming my favorite cap!

Well that´s really an honour for me Gersende, thanks!
...and you can be sure that your cap is one out of a maximum of ten... after that this lovely vintage fabric is gone.
If you don´t mind would you please make a shout out on Etsy in the feedback section?

 

[Woodfluter]

I had read some where that the city sport caps run small
How are yours?

My head is in between 59 & 60, so it's sometimes hard to tell!

Most 59 hats and caps are slightly snug and need some stretching.
I've used hot steam on the band portion, followed by hot hair dryer to slightly shrink some size 60 caps (e.g. the two Jonathan Richards I have), but that's harder.

I used a hat stretcher on the two size 59 City Sport caps, and now they fit just fine.
Have to be judicious with pressure and not pop any seams, of course.
I'd say they might run a tad toward the small, but I'd rather stretch than try to shrink.
I might consider 60 next time. If they're smallish, it's not a whole size by any means.

 

[SpeedRcrX]

Well that´s really an honour for me Gersende, thanks!
...and you can be sure that your cap is one out of a maximum of ten... after that this lovely vintage fabric is gone.
If you don´t mind would you please make a shout out on Etsy in the feedback section?

Done!!!

 

[Adnamira]

I had read some where that the city sport caps run small
How are yours?

Got mine in the mail today. My head measures 59.5cm with a tape and the cap is marked 60. It's a perfect fit for me. Seems spot on. Actually the whole cap is spot on for me. It's the smaller newsboy size that Woodfluter posted pics of, but I think it suits me - wouldn't want it to be any less, but I don't need it to be any more - it's a perfect full cut size for me. I think it is a good idea to buy in metric, because the British 7 3/8 is equivalent to the US 7 1/2.

 

[Woodfluter]

Got mine in the mail today. My head measures 59.5cm with a tape and the cap is marked 60. It's a perfect fit for me. Seems spot on. Actually the whole cap is spot on for me. It's the smaller newsboy size that Woodfluter posted pics of, but I think it suits me - wouldn't want it to be any less, but I don't need it to be any more - it's a perfect full cut size for me. I think it is a good idea to buy in metric, because the British 7 3/8 is equivalent to the US 7 1/2.

Thanks Adnamira, this is very helpful to know. My head size is the same as yours, so think I'll go 60 cm next time and avoid the stretching.

And I also like both the larger and the smaller styles - got compliments recently on each! A very attractive bank teller wanted me to give her the smaller model.

 

[Adnamira]

Thanks Adnamira, this is very helpful to know. My head size is the same as yours, so think I'll go 60 cm next time and avoid the stretching.

And I also like both the larger and the smaller styles - got compliments recently on each! A very attractive bank teller wanted me to give her the smaller model.

Yes, it sounds like you're the same head size as me, so I think you would find it just right. I'm going to be a big City Sport fan from now on. I wouldn't wear this cap on the farm or camping, like I would with Hat People Caps or maybe even the Wigens, but as a dress cap, it's a 'Goldi-loks Just Right' Cap for me. And it's like you said, the brim is stitched, but they've put the stitching in just the right spot. There is something about the look of them that has appealed to me for a long time - contemporary but with a vintage flavour - and now I have one, it's everything I expected. No snaps, leather sweatbands or natural fibre linings, but definitely a very good value article for the price.

 

[Adnamira]

This is the summary of my impressions of the cap brands I've bought and owned. Keep in mind I only own one Wigens and one City Sport cap for a short while, but I am very well pleased with them so far.

Kangol:

positive - funky

negative - over priced at retail, very hard to find one with good quality worsted wool fabrics.


Stetson:

positive - good range of fabrics and linings. A style of cap that will go with anything and not look out of place anywhere. Good depth and fit with crowns and bands

negative - the way the stitches on the brim pull on the crown. Don't have the fullness of a true newsboy style cap.


Hat People:

positive - durable, washable, scrunchable, packable, convenient, easy care, flexible brim, comfortable, soft Pendleton wools, individual style, great look when hanging or sitting flat, good sizing, individual, patterned cotton linings.

negative - full cut could have a little more dimension for larger head sizes and with softer fabrics could have a little more crown to pull forward. Linings vary in fit.


Zasu:

positive - Well made, eight panel cotton lining, excellent crown volume and depth, tremendous in size and shape of brim, has a snap, good profile and dimension and very full, good look, attention grabbing, pricing and postage very good.

negative - loose button and rolling of seams not to everyone's taste.


Wigens:

positive - Built like a tank - very strong, rugged and well made cap. Suitable for either outdoor activities or as a dress cap. Would be a very warm protective cap in winter especially. Earflaps very well designed and functional. Good sized and shape brim. Very well blocked and shaped. Very good woven wool, tweed fabrics. Wigens has taken the traditional wool Ivy and Flat Cap design and improved it. Worth the retail price.

negatives - Polyester linings could reduce thermal range of wool fabrics.


City Sport:

positive - This company has succeeded where Kangol has failed. They are continuing to make their caps in the country where the company was founded, and are producing very good quality caps at a very good price. Caps have a character and a look that is very appealing and contemporary with a vintage flavour. Very refined with a wide range of styles and cuts, vibrant fabrics and an attention to detail.

negatives - More of a dress cap, perhaps not the most suitable for outdoor activities, camping etc. Polyester linings could reduce thermal range of wool fabrics.

 

[wintergreen]

Its good to hear you like your City Sport cap. I have 4 of them and have found I dont wear any of my other caps anymore.
Mine have all been bought from a local shop so I was able to try them on before buying. The sizing has always been constant, I am a size 58 (7 1/8 in old money) and every one of their caps has been a perfect fit. so would have no problem trusting the sizing if I was to buy online.
The only problem I have is the local shop wont be getting any new stock until September so no new caps until then - unless I see something interesting online

 

[Adnamira]

City Sport Donegal Tweed: Lord of the Rings Series - Shelob Herringbone


City Sport Donegal Tweed by Adnamira, on Flickr


City Sport Donegal Tweed by Adnamira, on Flickr

Anybody want pups? Interesting comparison with Wigens. Brims are made and padded in an almost identical fashion - surprised me that the brim on the City Sport is actually bigger! Caps also fit on my head very simarly, inspite of the different style.


Wigens and City Sport by Adnamira, on Flickr


Wigens and City Sport by Adnamira, on Flickr

Of the caps I've bought so far, the Wigens has surprised me the most in how much I like it and the City Sport is the cap that has lived up most to my expectations. I'm very happy with both of them.