The Cap Faction

[alanfgag]

I have only a handful of caps and fabric hats, but in this small sampling I also find them to fit smaller than their marked size. I assume that fabric, once it has gotten wet and then dried, would have more of a tendency to shrink than would a fur felt fedora, which is baptized in steam.

Have you tried wetting the fabric and reblocking/stretching as you might when washing a wool sweater? As you point out, condition of the fabric and thread would need to be good - dry rot is not going to make it through this type of manipulation.

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Filson Mackinaw cap by mattface,

Looks nice and warm. Just hope we get the cold weather to match. Is this the charcol color looks blue. On their website it doen't show a blue color?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Have you tried wetting the fabric and reblocking/stretching as you might when washing a wool sweater? ...

Wetting can be tricky if the cap has a leather sweatband. You could remove it, but that's a hassle.

 

[rlk]

Fabrics and linings are generally more akin to suits and shirts-would you stretch these if your garment was a size too small? Would you assume that your sleeve length could be stretched 1" by pulling(about = %) without damage?
A recent cap had portions shred as soon as they received moisture. You must be fortunate in the condition and fabrics encountered. Hard to undo any damage that might result as well. Its not a woven sweater or felt(even these you are pulling fibers apart). May work in some cases but not to be assumed lightly and likely is weakening/damaging the material even if not reaching the point of fiber failure.

 

[alanfgag]

Wetting can be tricky if the cap has a leather sweatband. You could remove it, but that's a hassle.

Yes... certainly preferable to work on a hat without leather or with leather only on the front, like the Kingly Cap.

I also stretched that early 1900s wool tweed hat which was a 6 7/8 and had a thin leather sweat that was already somewhat dry and starting to crack in areas. I treated the sweatband with Pecard antique leather conditioner and then misted it from the outside. The moisture wicked through and dampened the sweat. It actually stretched quite nicely and when dry, seemed a little more flexible than it had been originally. But this is a very tricky thing and I wouldn't want to suggest it will work in all or even most situations. That particular sweat was thin and less than 1" wide.

 

[alanfgag]

Fabrics and linings are generally more akin to suits and shirts-would you stretch these if your garment was a size too small? Would you assume that your sleeve length could be stretched 1" by pulling(about = %) without damage?
A recent cap had portions shred as soon as they received moisture. You must be fortunate in the condition and fabrics encountered. Hard to undo any damage that might result as well. Its not a woven sweater or felt(even these you are pulling fibers apart). May work in some cases but not to be assumed lightly and likely is weakening/damaging the material even if not reaching the point of fiber failure.

It of course depends on the particular hat and whether one's primary goal is archiving or wearing. No question that stretching is a source of strain to the materials in all cases. The difference is that in a cap, the goal of stretching is to increase only the circle of the head opening - a much simpler modification of geometry than adjusting a sleeve length. A sewing machine does have the potential to do both alterations. It becomes a big project for a cap, but I would definitely recommend it over stretching for the latter.

 

[mattface]

Looks nice and warm. Just hope we get the cold weather to match. Is this the charcol color looks blue. On their website it doen't show a blue color?

The color in the photo is mostly due to the cellphone camera. It's not at all blue, a dark grey with some lighter flecks in it. Even though the cap is 24 oz Mackinaw wool, and the jacket is 24oz Yukon wool, the color is a dead match. I'm hard pressed to tell the difference between the two. The Yukon might have a slightly softer hand. then again the difference is subtle enough that I might just be imagining it.

 

[alanfgag]

disclaimer

Just in case my comments might be construed as disagreement with Robert's well stated cautions on manhandling old fabric caps... I encourage anyone tackling such a project to tread very carefully if at all. My trials are purely the act of desperation and embarked on only because I cannot win an early vintage cap (save those that are two sizes too small) to save my life.

:yo:

 

[mattface]

since we're talking about too small caps, and I'mtalking about my new Filson, I'll throw in my 2¢ bout this hat. I tend to wear between 7 18 amd 7 1/4 in fedoras, but a large in caps. based on the sizing information stating a large was to fit 7 1/4 to 7 3/8, and medium was to fit 7-7 1/8, I decided to order the medium because I reasoned I'd rather stretch a slightly too small hat than have one that's floppy. In retrospect that might have been a mistake.

I really couldn't get the cap on my head without some stretching, stretching and steam got it out easily enough to just a mite to snug, and I figure leaving it in the stretcher over night might relax it a bit more. This hat is plenty sturdy, and brand new, so I'm not worried about stretching it, butI bet the large would have fir perfect out of the box. I probably should have just returned it for exchange, but I was feeling impatient. Live and learn.

 

[rlk]

London Imperial cap

perfect fit unaltered...

 

[alanfgag]

perfect fit unaltered...

<sigh>

 

[rlk]

Old Woolrich flat cap

This lightweight woolen is tagged a size 7-1/2.

 

[Woodfluter]

perfect fit unaltered...

Oh man. Gorgeous. Hope I find one that nice some day.

 

[rlk]

One more from Joe's in St. Joe

Very light houndstooth wool 8-panel from Joe's Sporting Goods Store in St. Joe MO.

 

[randooch]

Stellar caps, Robert!

Someday I hope to see you bust a grin, maybe because you just put the ultimate hat atop your head, and you just can't contain your pleasure!

 

[srserl]

My new B!Wear cap. Customer service was fantastic, with my questions answered quickly. Ordered it Mon 8:30 PM and it was waiting for me Thurs night when I got home. Fits great and is very comfortable.

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Great Looking B!Wear cap.

 

[flat-top]

Here's a French ebay seller with a similar style although not period materials(grosgrain sweatband etc.) for a more modest price point. They sell pants too. I have some of their products on the way.

http://stores.ebay.com/mamiebluepar...1697013&_sid=1053156423&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Any fit pics of these caps? I wanted to pick one up after the Holidays!

 

[seabass]

Any fit pics of these caps? I wanted to pick one up after the Holidays!

Hi flat top I got 2 on the way ill post fit info when they arrive. i ordered 12-12-11
cool sizing info they post that made it easy for me to figure my size & now i know im a T59 in French sizing !

 

[rlk]

Cumberland 8-point flat cap

Fur-lined interior headband/flap. No leather components. Reg. No. is from 1928, so no older than that.