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The Cap Faction

Stuffsmith

Fedora Lounge Artisan
Messages
808
Location
Sydney
Just finished today... 'Le Couteau' 1920s style pleated-top cap made with 1940s lightweight kimono wool, 1950s kimono silk liner, leather visor and full leather sweatband, 1920s blued-steel buttons. This one'll get heavy rotation; it goes with almost everything I own!

le_couteau-slate-kimono-wool-1.jpg le_couteau-slate-kimono-wool-2.jpg le_couteau-slate-kimono-wool-3.jpg
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Stuffsmith

Fedora Lounge Artisan
Messages
808
Location
Sydney
Thanks boyz!

HBK, I can only guess as to why the zigzag stitch is the main one: strength. A straight stitch is essentially a perforated line, and with leather that can spell trouble when it starts to get worn and dried out a bit. Just my guess...
 

Simonds

Vendor
Messages
854
Location
Atlanta
From my experience the zig zag stitch prevents the edge of the leather from curling as it does with a straight stitch and giving the sweatband a more comfortable feel without the use of a reed.
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
Yet the most comfortable and stable way would be to stitch the sweatband straightly on the reverse and fold it over. The sweatband has to be soft/thin enough for this, of course.
Also prevents edge curl.

I had several cases of Zig-Zag stitches tearing on the front (on vintage caps/hats).
 

Simonds

Vendor
Messages
854
Location
Atlanta
Yet the most comfortable and stable way would be to stitch the sweatband straightly on the reverse and fold it over. The sweatband has to be soft/thin enough for this, of course.
Also prevents edge curl.

I had several cases of Zig-Zag stitches tearing on the front (on vintage caps/hats).

Leather will eventually cause cotton thread to rot and break. I have seen crusher caps with this type of folded sweatband installation.
 

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