The Cap Faction

[HatsWV]

I've thought about buying from these folks but as yet I don't know of anyone on here who owns one of their caps and can vouch for the brands quality.

 

[Adnamira]

Haha, I read that, and thought I better help out. On their site, they say it usually takes four weeks for items to be made to order, but that might be different for special offers, which to me would mean they've already been made. I purchased the Bond Cap. I wasn't going to purchase anymore winter caps, but another twelve months is a long time to wait Now I am going to go on ebay and see if I can order anothre head in order to wear all these flippin lids.

From what I can tell, this Bond cap differs from their Helmsley cap in that the latter has a plastic brim insert. I think both caps are devoid of back darts, which is a bit different from most other flat caps.

 

[Adnamira]

Exchange rate isn't as good for me as it used to be, but for me to get a cap internationally for $70 is pretty good. So we'll see. Beats me how Europe and the UK isn't going all that flash, but the exchange rate still seems to be in their favour. It might be part of their problems not being able to deflate their currency, I am thinking.

 

[St. Valentine]

Beats me how Europe and the UK isn't going all that flash, but the exchange rate still seems to be in their favour. It might be part of their problems not being able to deflate their currency, I am thinking.

We are trying to mess up our economy with all the monetary power we have! Bets are still accepted who goes over the edge first - Europe, UK or the US of A.... :eusa_doh:

 

[Adnamira]

We are trying to mess up our economy with all the monetary power we have! Bets are still accepted who goes over the edge first - Europe, UK or the US of A.... :eusa_doh:

I think the US has the ability to come out of it. The reason I say that is that with the financial crisis, the Aussie Dollar went from 60 US cents to over a $1 US, which makes the US more competitive in exporting to Asia. The Euro and the Pound haven't been devalued at all, it seems. And man, all those countries being tied into the same currency, without being able to depreciate the currencies of less competitive and efficient countries, seems like an endless vortex to me.

 

[Johnny J]

Gentlemen, I think I'm almost there. I've been studying these 1920s vintage ads and working hard at making the right pattern with the cut and dimensions that many of us would love to see in the caps of today. This is an updated version of the check cap I posted some weeks ago. I just finished this today.
Compare to the pics:

 

[Chepstow]

Johnny, yes sir, that looks sharp. I think that are the right proportions for the Cap!
The fabric is nice too! You mad it Johnny!! My Congrats to that beauty!

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Wow Johnny love how you have all the lines in the cap lined up. The liner is nice too very vintage style.

 

[Mario]

Looking mighty, Johnny! :eusa_clap

The only gripe I have is that the bill looks so massive.

 

[Johnny J]

Looking mighty, Johnny! :eusa_clap

The only gripe I have is that the bill looks so massive.

Mario, thanks for your sincere input! Thats what I need, suggestions, cause thats an easy fix for next time. But I do think some of the guys here like larger bills. Someone said the bigger the better and one of these 1920s pics shows a longer bill:

 

[Short Balding Guy]

Johnny J; The pictures of the 1920's ad's show handsome hats.

On regards to the front bill - it is not that it protrudes too far in front of the cap, it is too thick. The proportions appear off to my eye. I have tried viewing the pic in photoshop to get a better idea of the fabric. From what I can see on the software, the fabric is very heafty and may also be contributing. I hope this clarifies what I am seeing in the pics.

I took a ruler and tried to compare the ratio of height of the cap you have made. From that, I see that it is a bit higher and has more volume. Is that a feature that you deliberately have been working towards?

I am admiring your efforts sir. Eric -

 

[Mario]

Oh, I'm not talking about the size as in depth and/or width. No need to change that. I do like them bills wide and deep. I was actually referring to the thickness.

Mario, thanks for your sincere input! Thats what I need, suggestions, cause thats an easy fix for next time. But I do think some of the guys here like larger bills. Someone said the bigger the better and one of these 1920s pics shows a longer bill:

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

I see what Eric and Mario are talking about with the thickness I think it could be a little thinnner but the length the the bill is spot on.
Today's caps the crown of the cap totally covers the bill. A 20's cap the bill protruded out from the head and the crown stopped with an 1 1/2 of bill sticking out. The fabric could also be at play with how thick the bill looks the pattern is rather busy.

 

[Short Balding Guy]

I see what Eric and Mario are talking about with the thickness I think it could be a little thinnner but the length the the bill is spot on. Today's caps the crown of the cap totally covers the bill. A 20's cap the bill protruded out from the head and the crown stopped with an 1 1/2 of bill sticking out. The fabric could also be at play with how thick the bill looks the pattern is rather busy.

To expand on the conversation;
A cap, like the pic of the 1920's caps have a volume over the skull when on the head. Too much volume and it has "hat" proportions, too low and it looks like the "drving caps" just like you find at our local Nordstrom's retailer. Just enough - perfect -like the 1920's caps. The magic must be in the proportions.

Johnny I bet that the fabric weight and heft make a huge difference. Fabric may be the mystery compnent in the function of making an appealing cap. I imagine that we (cap afficiantos who are conversing), for the most part can agree on the general proportions. If the aim is to mimic the general features of a historic look - possible to hit. Taking apart a vintage hat to generally mimic the proportions and cut of the hat - possible to hit. Even adjusting to the human compenent -different sizes - difficult, but possible. Finding fabric that is close to the vintage fabric that would give a similar result - hardest (IMO)! The art - putting it together.

Johnny, I tip my cap in your general direction for undertaking this labor of passion as it is not easy. As this project matures, you need to get business cards that have "Artist capper to the famous and stylish. "

Best, Eric -

 

[Rabbit]

What ho, old chap... found me another tailor of caps, I did! Looky see, down the bottom of the special offers page, a rather nice hand tailored bond cap. There's some very much like it called the Hemesomthingarather under the Gentleman's Hat listing in a wider selection of fabrics. Not sure these caps would work with my wardrobe, but it's always fun to discover something new in the world of caps. I should think these would be a very wise choice with a tweed jacket.

http://www.lawrenceandfoster.co.uk/acatalog/Special_offers.html

What the website doesn't say: Lawrence & Foster also accept orders for cloth provided by the customer. Their cut is modern, though.
I haven't checked them out yet, but Will Boehlke (A Suitable Wardrobe) had only nice things to say about their service. I think they will need 0.5 meter for a flat cap (dunno about 8pieces), but don't take my word for it.

Here are some sources for cloth (those of you who source their suit cloth themselves will know these addresses, but just the same):

Fox Flannel (for, well, British flannel):
http://www.foxflannel.com/tailoringbunches.php

Huddersfield (THE source):
http://www.hfwltd.com/index.php

Harrison of Edinburgh (lots and lots of great cloth, check their website's subdivision carefully):
http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/welcome.html

Harris Tweed Highland Shop (for Harris Tweeds other than the standard bunch of patterns; watch out for the cloth widths):
http://www.harristweedshop.com/tweed-index.html

Brisbane Moss (for corduroy and linen):
http://www.brisbanemoss.co.uk/

 

[St. Valentine]

While waiting for one of Johnny´s new caps to cross the pond I couldn´t resist but had to try out Mamie Blue´s Retro Sport caps. The price for us European customers is too tempting! I went for one of the lighter fabric ones which are marked for spring/autumn use by Mamie Blue. As it turned out the fabric is much lighter than I had thought and it is perfectly suitable as a summer cap. A very nice and fluffy cap which is very well made! I will definitely try out their winter caps too and another one for autumn or even summer won´t hurt either, doen´t it?

I appologize for the low quality, webcam pictures. I hope you get an impression anyway.

 

[seabass]

Oh, I'm not talking about the size as in depth and/or width. No need to change that. I do like them bills wide and deep. I was actually referring to the thickness.

Brim is Thick looking, probably the fabric & placement of the seam
Easy Fix,
as for the brim dimensions (i like) & the cut is great.
I will be wearing his caps a lot !!!!!

 

[Johnny J]

Thank you gentlemen!
I will keep all of that valuable council and suggestions present when I make the rest of my caps. I started a linen cap and that material sure is quite thinner then the wools. Pretty nice though, and should make nice caps! Will keep you all posted on the linens.
I do need to buy one of those vintage Singer 107 w53 sewing machines to get that nice zig zag stitching on the leather sweatbands. I found one and was about to put it on the card, but my dear wife said, "Save up, or else!". Of course, she said it with lots of love.

 

[Adnamira]

I'd rather a thick bill than a thin bill. Thin bills are for baseball caps and look out of proportion on volumnous caps. Thicker bills also highlight some fabrics, especially tweeds. Drawings of caps are one thing, but the material in those caps may be a worsted fabric. I like how your caps sit up, Johnny. The way the retrosport cap I have bulges onto my ears I find a bit annoying.

 

[Adnamira]

What the website doesn't say: Lawrence & Foster also accept orders for cloth provided by the customer. Their cut is modern, though.
I haven't checked them out yet, but Will Boehlke (A Suitable Wardrobe) had only nice things to say about their service. I think they will need 0.5 meter for a flat cap (dunno about 8pieces), but don't take my word for it.

Here are some sources for cloth (those of you who source their suit cloth themselves will know these addresses, but just the same):

Fox Flannel (for, well, British flannel):
http://www.foxflannel.com/tailoringbunches.php

Huddersfield (THE source):
http://www.hfwltd.com/index.php

Harrison of Edinburgh (lots and lots of great cloth, check their website's subdivision carefully):
http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/welcome.html

Harris Tweed Highland Shop (for Harris Tweeds other than the standard bunch of patterns; watch out for the cloth widths):
http://www.harristweedshop.com/tweed-index.html

Brisbane Moss (for corduroy and linen):
http://www.brisbanemoss.co.uk/

Thanks, Rabbit. I'd like to get a worsted wool cap sometime, so I will have to come back to this post to reference those links perhaps. I paid for my cap via paypal and didn't recieve an email from them after the order, and unusually the paypal record says no shipping address available, which is wierd, so I guess I can only sit and wait to see if it shows up. Hat People are good in that regard... they also take 4 weeks to make a cap, but they don't bill you until the cap is made.