The Bowler or Derby Hat

[Redfokker]

Found this cool early Stetson derby.

Nice, fantastic condition. The sweat looks never sweat in. Clean.

 

[steur]

Stefan, Missed this one. Fantastic Stiff Felt! Interesting regarding the Dutch "fondata nel 1857". Could be similar to the German "Echter" to prove originality? Also great to see the paper label. It's the same as my date stamped 1929 Echter Borsalinos. Sometime during the 1930s this type of paper label was dropped.

Steve, thanks. I think it could be more of a selling point. Borsalino may not have been that well known in the Netherlands at that point in time, so maybe they put that translation there to show the customers it was in fact a long existing and respected hatmaker.

 

[DOGMAN]

Nice, fantastic condition. The sweat looks never sweat in. Clean.

Your right.This hat looks like new.It was just a little dusty.

 

[jlee562]

Ok, here's my new to me Select Quality featherweight derby. Great felt on this one, surprisingly soft hand for a stiff felt hat. I thought I had a chance of a pre-war hat, but then I found the $8.00 price tag and now I have no idea.

 

[Redfokker]

Ok, here's my new to me Select Quality featherweight derby. Great felt on this one, surprisingly soft hand for a stiff felt hat. I thought I had a chance of a pre-war hat, but then I found the $8.00 price tag and now I have no idea.

I think there are dating clues with those two colors of labels. Probably 1930s? Nice looking Derby!

 

[M Hatman]

Ok, here's my new to me Select Quality featherweight derby. Great felt on this one, surprisingly soft hand for a stiff felt hat. I thought I had a chance of a pre-war hat, but then I found the $8.00 price tag and now I have no idea.

Is that crown really bell shaped like that? That is awesome!!!!!!!!!
M

 

[RJR]

Is that crown really bell shaped like that? That is awesome!!!!!!!!!
M

+1

 

[jlee562]

It does have a bit of 'reverse taper,' but I suspect it's related to the sweatband, which has definitely shrunk, as it's pulling away from the inside crown. It's not super brittle, and I've been trying to restore it as much as I can with some jojoba oil, so we shall see.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I've seen a lot of old Bowlers with reverse taper or onion shaped. I think that's how they came.

 

[mayserwegener]

Jared, Great find!

Does the brim lie fairly flat?

 

[steur]

Ok, here's my new to me Select Quality featherweight derby. Great felt on this one, surprisingly soft hand for a stiff felt hat. I thought I had a chance of a pre-war hat, but then I found the $8.00 price tag and now I have no idea.

Great find, Jared. It might be that the sweat was done that way on purpose. I have a few bowlers with the sweatband standing away from the inner crown as well (it makes wearing the hat comfortable, but the sweat is more vulnerable too).

 

[jlee562]

Jared, Great find!

Does the brim lie fairly flat?

Yes, it does, except for the curl of course. I'll try to get some better pics when I get home.

 

[mayserwegener]

Yes, it does, except for the curl of course. I'll try to get some better pics when I get home.

Jared, Thank you for the follow up. If there was distortion from shrinkage you would would see it in the brim. I would say this is mostly the intended form.

 

[jlee562]

Jared, Thank you for the follow up. If there was distortion from shrinkage you would would see it in the brim. I would say this mostly the intended form.

Good to know, I'm just dipping my toes into the bowler/derby world, so still have a lot to learn!

 

[Redfokker]

Good to know, I'm just dipping my toes into the bowler/derby world, so still have a lot to learn!

Come over to the dark side Jared...

 

[jlee562]

Here's a few more...

Frayed ribbon:

Head on again:

Interior shot with original owner's initials:

Featherweight logo imprint:

 

[mayserwegener]

Good to know, I'm just dipping my toes into the bowler/derby world, so still have a lot to learn!

Jared, You will see distortion in the brim of a Stiff Felt if it has been over stretched. This happens with Soft Felts but it's less noticeable. If stretched you will see a curve front to back (from a side view) and the brim will not lie flat. I don't find this to be an issue (just more slope to the brim from the side view) but something you see often (they were stretched) with old Stiff Felts.

 

[Pinč]

Gentlemen, is this hat Winston Churchill is wearing, a bowler? Or is it a top hat? I really can't tell. Thank you.

 

[jlee562]

Gentlemen, is this hat Winston Churchill is wearing, a bowler? Or is it a top hat? I really can't tell. Thank you.

My understanding is that this is called a Square Crown Coke or Cambridge Bowler, it's the same style of hat that Oddjob wears in the James Bond movies, and similar to the style Jude Law wears in the Guy Ritchie-directed Sherlock Holmes film. I think Lock & Co still makes them even though they're not on the website.

 

[Redfokker]

My understanding is that this is called a Square Crown Coke or Cambridge Bowler, it's the same style of hat that Oddjob wears in the James Bond movies, and similar to the style Jude Law wears in the Guy Ritchie-directed Sherlock Holmes film. I think Lock & Co still makes them even though they're not on the website.

+1 Good info.