The Bowler or Derby Hat

[Chepstow]

Arrived yesterday, what is that, that is a rarely Borsalino Melone, in that small package.
I was very happy and suprised about a Melone but what was that, the seller stuffed it in the to small package and the front brim was broken.
I could repair it, glue and hair for first aid, the next step is to work with more hair!
Here are the pics!

 

[Tommy]

Picked up a derby that appears to be old. it's the best fitting and dimensionally most appealing vintage derby I've located while thrifting. I'm thinking it's worth putting it through a rehab, I'd like to try rehabbing it myself, but don't know if that's really possible. I may have to have someone do it for me. I think it would be a good fall project for me.

For those who have done this or attempted it, any advice on approach and where to procure good ribbon, liner and sweatband? Is there a thread specific to working over a derby? Does the brim require a edge ribbon?

Both the hat and I appreciate your input, thanks!

 

[mayserwegener]

J. Hückel´s Söhne Flexible Melone, Size 6 1/4 Point, Brim 2 inches, Crown 5 inches, Weight 5.46 oz, Very good condition with original box (missing lid). The liner color is a unique light magenta. Probably from the 1930s maybe the 1920s.

 

[ManofKent]

Very nice Steve.

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

This one's an odd goose. This one was made after the art of the D'orsay curl disappeared stateside, as a result it has a homburg style brim and binding and a softer crown. I've seen the pencil curl brims on most modern bowlers, but this is something else entirely. I almost thought it was a homburg that just hadnt been creased before, but because of the crown shape, I think its fairly certain that this is a bowler.

 

[bowlerman]

Wow, beautiful. Definitely a derby, and certainly possesses most of the elements of the D'Orsay, with the sharp break on the side where the curl happens. Nice find!

Sent from my KFTT using Tapatalk 2

 

[Brad Bowers]

Looks a lot like the Derbies you find from the Derby Revival of 1959. It actually started in 1958 and continued into 1960, but American manufacturers saw a brief flurry of rebirth for the style. The revival extended into 1960 due to the film "The Apartment," wherein Jack Lemmon wore one. As you noted, the art of curling was long gone by then, so these Derbies all feature a Homburg curl instead. The crowns of these Derbies were typically shorter than in the past, and were indeed softer, with far less shellac than the old days. There was also a sub-style during the Derby Revival called a "Demi-Bowler" that featured an even softer crown that could be creased if so desired.

Brad

 

[ManofKent]

Nice find!

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

Looks a lot like the Derbies you find from the Derby Revival of 1959. It actually started in 1958 and continued into 1960, but American manufacturers saw a brief flurry of rebirth for the style. The revival extended into 1960 due to the film "The Apartment," wherein Jack Lemmon wore one. As you noted, the art of curling was long gone by then, so these Derbies all feature a Homburg curl instead. The crowns of these Derbies were typically shorter than in the past, and were indeed softer, with far less shellac than the old days. There was also a sub-style during the Derby Revival called a "Demi-Bowler" that featured an even softer crown that could be creased if so desired.

Brad

Thanks for the info, I think it's more than likely a demi-bowler. It takes a crease without too much effort.

 

[Purplesage]

Stetson Derby circa!

Can anyone on this thread help me date this derby? The size tag can only be partially seen because the liner edge is glued over the top. I can make out size 7 1/8 and some writing in pencil but I can't see enough to make it out. Even though the sweatband is in good shape, I didn't want to risk further exploration because of the taped back seam.

Hat measurements:
Brim 1 7/8" front and back; 1 1/2" on the sides; crown is 4 3/4"

 

[mayserwegener]

Fantastic!

 

[David Conwill]

 

[Grizzly Adams]

Any hope for this one?

This is my buddy, Dirty Dan back when he was a youngster and sported a bowler.



DD, not being one to discard a hat because it has a little wear, wore it until he had to retire it. It now resides on a hook on the wall, a reminder of times long past. Thought you fellas might get a kick out of seeing it.









Dan is not in his late 70s, and I presented him with a nice little Knox bowler on his last birthday.

 

[mmbarnes]

My first hat posted in the Lounge... Knox "The Fifth Avenue" Exellent Quality bowler from the '30s or '40s. Appears to be pretty close to mint with just some wear on the embossing.

 

[Brad Bowers]

Sweet! Your Knox Derby is from any time between 1933 to about 1940. Beautiful condition, too.

Brad

 

[mmbarnes]

Thanks Brad. It has become one of my favorites. Later or tomorrow I'm going to post pics of my Knox bowler that I suspect is from the teens. The D'Orsay curl on it is very nice.

Matt Barnes

 

[Lorne]

Hello,

Can anyone tell me the date on this one?

 

[Dinerman]

Just got this house-labeled second-wave brown derby.

 

[alanfgag]

Hello,

Can anyone tell me the date on this one?

Earlier than 1934.

 

[mmbarnes]

Here is my Knox Extra Quality bowler sold by sole agent The Harvey Clothing Company in Tiffin, OH. I won it in a non-Ebay online auction for less than $70. I think that it was a steal.

From my research on the form, construction, seller, and Knox history I estimate the age to be from the 1910's. Can the more knowledgeable offer an opinion?

Aside from the curl, my favorite part of this hat is that it has the original price tag with the hand written stock number. Wearing it feels like wearing a time machine.

When I bought it, it was dented and filthy. In the auction photos it looked pretty darned sorry. Some steaming to clean it and repair the dents, and then brushing had great results. I considered a naphtha bath but refrained out of concern that it would damage the price tag.

The photos wash out the black color a bit. The truest color is shown in the photo of me wearing it.

Matt Barnes