The Bowler or Derby Hat

[Andrew friedhofen]

The brims, while both are curled and bound, are different. I’ve never heard the term “homburg bowlers,” except in ebay descriptions from sellers who don’t know much about hats.
Thanks. I was messing around with my caxton bowler and put a dent and pinch in the crown. I don't know what you'd call it but it looks not too bad. It pops right out so no harm done.


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[bowlerman]

New here but I've noticed that most bowlers have a homburg like brim. Are they ever called homburg bowlers?

They aren’t. But there’s nothing to say you couldn’t start, except that they simply aren’t the same.
The brims and crown blocking are both considerably different, in addition to bowlers being stiff hats up until the 1960s, and even after that they are stiffer than most.
Until then they had a D’Orsay curl which is nearly impossible to duplicate, and the ribbon binding is considered more difficult to execute, since more of the underside of the brim is visible.
A Homburg hat is pretty much a fedora with a bound and curled brim, all around softer and usually wider than that of a bowler. The crown is blocked differently, and the open crown is both higher and much softer, to accommodate a variety of creases. If you look closely, even in pictures, you will see that the shape of the brim curls are considerably different from each other.
Welcome to the lounge.



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[Andrew friedhofen]

They aren’t. But there’s nothing to say you couldn’t start, except that they simply aren’t the same.
The brims and crown blocking are both considerably different, in addition to bowlers being stiff hats up until the 1960s, and even after that they are stiffer than most.
Until then they had a D’Orsay curl which is nearly impossible to duplicate, and the ribbon binding is considered more difficult to execute, since more of the underside of the brim is visible.
A Homburg hat is pretty much a fedora with a bound and curled brim, all around softer and usually wider than that of a bowler. The crown is blocked differently, and the open crown is both higher and much softer, to accommodate a variety of creases. If you look closely, even in pictures, you will see that the shape of the brim curls are considerably different from each other.
Welcome to the lounge.
Thanks for that info. I like bowlers even if some consider them out of style. I was playing around with a caxton
And put a center dent and pinch on it and it looks sort of like a homburg. Pops right out easily. I've got to quit buying so many hats.

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[bowlerman]

This lounge won’t be helpful if you want to quit buying hats! [emoji39]
I wear my bowlers and derbies all the time, but I’ve come to learn that my preference is to have a western pencil curl over the vintage D’Orsays, because they can dip below my eyebrows. Just a quick comparison below.

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[Bamaboots]

Just a quick comparison below.

Great composition and contrast in that first pic, Jeff and great comparison. You should post that in the still life thread. I have no interest in bowlers or derby's for myself and never knew what a D'Orsay curl was until I read you mentioning it once and that caused me to look it up.

I've always said you sport this (these) style(s) as well as I've ever seen and enjoy it when you share them. The reason I've sold every homburg I've owned is because I always thought of westernizing them, making them look more like your lighter colored derby. I was always tugging on the front of the brim.

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Great composition and contrast in that first pic, Jeff

What BB said, Jeff. You should get a good print made & frame that first one! Composition & lightening are fantastic.

 

[bowlerman]

What BB said, Jeff. You should get a good print made & frame that first one! Composition & lightening are fantastic.

Thanks guys. My girlfriend has been telling me the same thing about my landscape photos lately. I think it could be fun to figure out how to print and frame some of these.


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[Cornshucker77]

This lounge won’t be helpful if you want to quit buying hats! [emoji39]

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That's for sure!!! LOL

 

[Steve1857]

This wonderful John B. Stetson Company ca. 1920s Bowler arrived today. Thanks to Garrett for enabling this piece of American hat history to head (pun intended) my way.

It's seen some action, but that's all a part of its attraction and charm for me.

It seems to be even thinner a felt than the Hückel Bowler I posted the other day. But thanks to Steve (MayserWegener) I now understand why.

For me, it fits so well that the dents, caused by action and wear, are no problem at all, but a part of its charm.

If anyone knows anything about the gold markings on the liner, I'd appreciate a lesson. The bottom ones are worn out, but the top one is intact. Are they union or fraternity markings of some kind?

Thank you Garrett for being willing to ship this to me. Appreciate it.

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[Rmccamey]

A real beauty!

This wonderful John B. Stetson Company ca. 1920s Bowler arrived today. Thanks to Garrett for enabling this piece of American hat history to head (pun intended) my way.

It's seen some action, but that's all a part of its attraction and charm for me.

It seems to be even thinner a felt than the Hückel Bowler I posted the other day. But thanks to Steve (MayserWegener) I now understand why.

For me, it fits so well that the dents, caused by action and wear, are no problem at all, but a part of its charm.

If anyone knows anything about the gold markings on the liner, I'd appreciate a lesson. The bottom ones are worn out, but the top one is intact. Are they union or fraternity markings of some kind?

Thank you Garrett for being willing to ship this to me. Appreciate it.

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[Steve1857]

A real beauty!

Thanks, Randy. It is [emoji4]

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[Bertie.Wooster]

Hi folks,

I think most of the folks here know me for my interest for boater hats but some time ago I discovered a new-found interest for brown trilbies and black bowler hats. I've always admired the 'city gent' that ceased to be in the 1980s in England. It was a stereotypical outlook of the city stockbroker or banker. They wore business attire topped with a bowler, carried a briefcase and brolly (furled umbrella).

I am pretty sure I will be investing in a brown trilby soon for my occasional countryside pursuits and also of course for the city promenade. I missed on a handsome Dunn & Co and a Gieves & Hawkes (Made by Christy's) twice this year!

But for the bowler, it is a different question. I never see anyone sporting such a hat in the city and also don't really trust the makers now. I am not much of a confident person and don't want to stand out too much. Do you think it would be fine, if I bought a bowler and wore it around in the city?

I am thinking of buying a Lock & Co variety but I hear that it is just a re-branded Christys with a tripled-price tag? I do appreciate their history and the services they offer such as their conformateuring? and their high class customer care but is it really worth spending 385GBP for such a hat? Look at their 'Soft Town Coke', it is an absolute mess! Unpolished felt and it really is horrendous...

 

[jlee562]

Do you think it would be fine, if I bought a bowler and wore it around in the city?

Lol, I mean, what do you think is going happen? As far as I know, there are no roving bands of hat snatchers...or droogs running around you might be mistaken for.

Wear the hat, don't let the hat wear you.

Pre war Stetson Derbies are a dime a dozen on Ebay. You should be able to find one for $100 or less.

 

[Frunobulax]

Lol, I mean, what do you think is going happen? As far as I know, there are no roving bands of hat snatchers...or droogs running around you might be mistaken for.

Wear the hat, don't let the hat wear you.

Pre war Stetson Derbies are a dime a dozen on Ebay. You should be able to find one for $100 or less.

Droogs, LOL. First thing I thought of, too.

Malcolm McDowell is too old to be much of a threat now.

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[deadlyhandsome]

Hi folks,

I think most of the folks here know me for my interest for boater hats but some time ago I discovered a new-found interest for brown trilbies and black bowler hats. I've always admired the 'city gent' that ceased to be in the 1980s in England. It was a stereotypical outlook of the city stockbroker or banker. They wore business attire topped with a bowler, carried a briefcase and brolly (furled umbrella).

I am pretty sure I will be investing in a brown trilby soon for my occasional countryside pursuits and also of course for the city promenade. I missed on a handsome Dunn & Co and a Gieves & Hawkes (Made by Christy's) twice this year!

But for the bowler, it is a different question. I never see anyone sporting such a hat in the city and also don't really trust the makers now. I am not much of a confident person and don't want to stand out too much. Do you think it would be fine, if I bought a bowler and wore it around in the city?

I am thinking of buying a Lock & Co variety but I hear that it is just a re-branded Christys with a tripled-price tag? I do appreciate their history and the services they offer such as their conformateuring? and their high class customer care but is it really worth spending 385GBP for such a hat? Look at their 'Soft Town Coke', it is an absolute mess! Unpolished felt and it really is horrendous...

Unless you have a very large head (guilty) then buy vintage! You’ll get a better hat and spend less. As for how you’ll look in it or how you’ll be perceived, how can we know? Do you really care? If you’re looking to blend in and never stick out then skip hats altogether. I think you could look very sharp if you own the look and are comfortable with it.

A quick look: this dusty hat is available for $45 and that includes shipping (to the US only, sorry). Stiff felt hats are the best bargain out there if you like the style.

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[Bertie.Wooster]

Thank you for all the replies. Yes, I think I might stick to vintage. I prefer the old craftsmanship and the hat industry was in its golden age back then... That is a very handsome Stetson but I am going wait for a better deal (I know..) I am trying to buy a nice Trilby as well so keeping the spending limit tight. I think I could pick up a British Dunn & Co. one for quite a low price. Dunn & Co made a lot during their time but each hat has this sense of quality and this well-made feel, so cheap and durable really! It did well with the droogs haha (Malcolm wore a Dunn & Co one for the movies)

 

[Dm101]

Vintage is the best way to go.
The hatmakers of today just aren't up to the same quality...kinda like pizza.

 

[DOGMAN]

Wear any hat anytime you want....That's what I do.

 

[Bertie.Wooster]

Wear any hat anytime you want....That's what I do.

Sounds good to me!

 

[Steve1857]

I've been so lucky picking up hats from the Facebook Market Place this summer. I'd never even considered it before, now it's my go to hat check place.

I met the seller at the main station in Copenhagen and picked up this ca. 1920s/30s Bowler. Made in Belgium, sold in the little Danish town of Nakskov.

It's a very stiff felt with a very nice sheen imo.

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