The Bowler or Derby Hat

[ofcoursemyhorse]

 

[Redfokker]

This is a fantastic vintage derby. The crown is stupendous! Have you looked into this maker? You have been really hitting them out of the park of late!

 

[Luis]

Can anyone tell me a bit more about this one? Got this one yesterday, the brim is straighter and a bit taller than the ones I have. Its very very stiff brim and crown. Only problem is the sweatband that is barely hanging on. Thanks!!!

 

[mayserwegener]

There isn't much information on English makers here. You might want to search the HJ and BB addresses for clues. My guess would be 20s or 30s. The brim might have been flatten at a latter time.

 

[mayserwegener]

Great find!

 

[101 Pathfinder]

Good idea, carter!

On this side of the pond, the Derby was certainly the most ubiquitous hat of the late-nineteenth/early-twentieth century. It seems to have been more of an Everyman's hat, which is probably why the upper classes eventually picked up on the Homburg to differentiate themselves. The Derby was more prevalent hat in the Old West than any of Stetson's broad-brimmed hats, too.

Brad

Being a member of The Sons Of The Desert, the Derby (worn by both Mr Laurel & Mr Hardy) always has a place in my heart.

 

[Celia]

Can anyone tell me a bit more about this one? Got this one yesterday, the brim is straighter and a bit taller than the ones I have. Its very very stiff brim and crown. Only problem is the sweatband that is barely hanging on. Thanks!!!
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Nice find! Herbert Johnson still exist and still make hats and caps, they have a shop in London in Piccadilly Arcade. You could try contacting them for more info. Here's their website: http://www.herbert-johnson.co.uk/

 

[Joshbru3]

Fantastic high crowned, flat topped stiff hat. How tall is the crown?

I tossed my hat into the bidding for that one, guess I know who the winning bidder was.

 

[101 Pathfinder]

The Gentleman on the right looks at home in just about anything from a Morning Suit to pair of jeans. He's also quite loved by members of the military on both sides of the Pond. I'd like to party with that Dude before he marries!!

 

[Luis]

Nice find! Herbert Johnson still exist and still make hats and caps, they have a shop in London in Piccadilly Arcade. You could try contacting them for more info. Here's their website: http://www.herbert-johnson.co.uk/

awesome! just emailed them to inquire. let's see what they say.

 

[RJR]

awesome! just emailed them to inquire. let's see what they say.

They have a new hatter now who seems most responsive to questions.Visit COW site for an update on their version of the INDY fedora.

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

Fantastic high crowned, flat topped stiff hat. How tall is the crown?

I tossed my hat into the bidding for that one, guess I know who the winning bidder was.

It's at 5 1/2" looking at it, i would have sworn it would have been at least 6".

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

A flatter brim is also pretty common for alot of English made bowlers.

 

[Joshbru3]

It's at 5 1/2" looking at it, i would have sworn it would have been at least 6".

It really does look like several felt top hats that I own. With a crown at 5 1/2, it definitely could be a high crowned derby, but it could also be a top hat as well. I guess a very flat topped, square crowned derby is essentially a top hat. I would probably call that a topper.

I looked up Youman's in a few American Hatter publications and found two different logos from the late 1800's. I believe your hat dates to the late 1880's or early 1890's.

This Youmans logo (which matches yours identically) is from an 1894 American Hatter

The addresses listed in the logo are 180, 719, and 1107 Broadway





This Youmans logo is a from an 1898 edition of The American Hatter

The addresses have changed to 1107, 1109, and 158 Broadway

 

[ofcoursemyhorse]

I think of the ones I've posted only the one with "Dunlap Style" stamped on the sweatband is a true tall crowned derby. The others are like you said stiff felt top hats. They just share so much in common, I always just figured to include them here.

 

[Joshbru3]

I think of the ones I've posted only the one with "Dunlap Style" stamped on the sweatband is a true tall crowned derby. The others are like you said stiff felt top hats. They just share so much in common, I always just figured to include them here.

They do share much in common. A super high crowned (square) derby and top hat are about 95% similar. I have owned high crowned derbies that were very tall, but still had a round derby crown. I have also owned derbies that had extremely straight and square crowns that were very difficult to tell apart from a felt top hat. I think the biggest distinguishing factor is the very top of the crown. Even the straight sided square high crowned derbies still have a slightly rounded top, whereas top hats have a perfectly flat top. Some would argue that the style of brim curling could be a factor as well, but I tend to disagree. There have been so many different trends over the last 200 years regarding derby and top hat brim curling styles. Now, after looking at your Youmans again, I can see a slight dome to the top of the crown, so I retract my previous statement about it being a top hat, and actually think its a super rare very high crowned derby. Being brown makes it that more rare. Such an incredible find.

 

[Luis]

They have a new hatter now who seems most responsive to questions.Visit COW site for an update on their version of the INDY fedora.

Hmmm.... i don't see how it's a homburg

 

[mayserwegener]

I have some similar German Stiff Felts(from
Gotisches House Bad Homburg)
on my site and here somewhere. I just go by Stiff Felt regardless of form or geographic origin.

 

[fabiovenhorst]

New arrival: vintage Stetson bowler with cleaning pads and a funny owners card

 

[fabiovenhorst]

The three bowlers together.
Left to right: Tress & Co., Stetson and the Lincoln Bennett.